Once you’ve completed a hand-knit, it’s time to block it! I suggest you weave in the yarn ends before blocking your piece, so that the woven in ends become part of the finished fabric, and are set into place.
This post covers how to wet block in general – the basics. You may also be interested in learning more about How to block a lace shawl, How to block a hand-knit sweater, and How to block a hat.
Why block?
I have a confession: I never used to block my knitting. It seemed fussy and unnecessary. What real difference could a little water and laying your knitting flat accomplish? Boy was I wrong. I’m a big convert to the world of blocking (thank you Emily) so I hope you will be too.
Wet blocking consists of wetting your knitting and laying it flat, the way you want it, to dry. When you’re blocking a lace shawl or a sweater or a hat, there may be a few extra steps, but washing and laying to dry is really all there is to it. After blocking, your stitches will look smoother and more even, and if you have changes in fabric (like garter to ribbing for example), blocking helps to even these changes out. So let’s get blocking!
If you like free knitting patterns, and helpful tutorials like this one, sign up for our email updates… and tell us what you’d like to learn – Alexa and I are here to help!
Supplies for blocking your knits
- Pins: I use T-pins (they are literally shaped like T’s) but any stainless steel pin will do. You want to make sure that your pins won’t rust because rust and knitting are not a good combination.
- Something to block on: I bought these foam puzzle pieces at the hardware store but a piece of cardboard, a bit of carpeted floor, or a mattress will do fine. You just need something to stick your pins into that will allow your knitting to dry.
- Wool wash: something like Soak or Eucalan are popular wool washes, but you can use shampoo too! Read the label to see if you need to rinse your knitting or not. Soak is a leave in wash and a squirt the size of a dime will do for a scarf.
- Something to soak your knitting in: either a clean sink or a clean basin. Emphasis on clean!
- A towel: to squeeze out the excess water from your knitting.
6 Steps to Block Your Hand Knits
- Fill your sink or basin with cool water and a squeeze of wool wash (or shampoo).
- Wet your knit. I do this by submerging my knitting and pressing out the bubbles. You don’t want to agitate your knit too much. Leave it for about 15 minutes to so it has time to get fully soaked.
- Take your knit out of the water and press out as much excess as you can. Do not wring the fabric, this can stretch it out of shape permanently.
- Roll your item in a towel and stomp on it, this removes most of the excess water, leaving the fabric damp.
- Lay your knit out on your blocking boards and use hands to stretch and pat it into shape. You want to lay your knitting out just the way you want it to look. For a scarf, aim for an even width and straight edges. Pin the piece into place if you like.
- Wait until your knit is fully dry, then unpin it, and enjoy!
Your knit should dry in a day or two depending on the climate (I love blocking outside in the summer, it’s so quick!). If your knit takes more than three days to dry, start over. The fabric will have a not-so-fresh smell to it. Try again, but this time squeeze out more of water out before you pin the knit out.
This tutorial covers the basics of wet-blocking, but there other ways to block your knitting. How you block your garment will really depend on what it is and what sort of fabric you have. You might not use pins for a sweater (unless it has lace or cables) or if you are blocking a lace shawl you might want to use blocking wires. While blocking may seem fussy at first it really makes a big difference in the finished product. You spend so much time hand knitting, what’s a day or two for a block?
~ Alexa
Free Learn to Knit Patterns by Tin Can Knits
Barley
Flax (free)
Rye
Wheat
Maize
Harvest
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September 14, 2021 @ 12:11 pm
Hello. I’m wondering if you can advise. I blocked my cable headband and it got stretched out too much and doesn’t fit now. I’ve already seamed the sides and weaved in the ends. Is there a way to shrink it slightly? Should I block it again and if so, how should I do it given it’s been seamed? Thanks!
September 20, 2021 @ 1:54 am
You could try to ‘felt’ it slightly by washing it in hot water with soap, and rubbing it with your hands, until it get a little smaller. This is pretty risky though! You might also want to consider sewing an elastic on the inside, perhaps just inside the bottom 1/3? So that could help it cinch down tighter around the remainder of the headband. Best luck!
March 15, 2021 @ 2:31 pm
I have a number of baby items to block – can I wash with baby-friendly detergent (Dreft) and then block? Or should I block with wool wash and then wash with baby-friendly detergent before gifting?
March 16, 2021 @ 10:55 am
Hi Joanna – I would just go with the wool wash personally
March 17, 2021 @ 6:12 pm
Thank you!
February 19, 2021 @ 9:31 am
I have been knitting mostly scarves and afghans for years. Just began blocking.
My scarves look better once blocked but they are much much longer than I had planned. Ack! Wondering if I should be wet blocking scarves at all or just plan on knitting them up to 10″ shorter than I want.
February 19, 2021 @ 11:27 am
Hi Pam – I think the key is only laying them out to the length you want. You don’t really want to stretch them while blocking, just lay them flat.
January 19, 2021 @ 6:02 am
I just finished my first wool sweater using your pattern Dog Star. Unfortunately it’s too big. Should I wash the sweater in a washing machine to shrink it a bit and then block it? Or can I agitate it a bit hand washing and then block it?
January 19, 2021 @ 11:04 am
Hi Joy – It’s a dangerous game shrinking a wool sweater, I would definitely do it by hand.
November 26, 2020 @ 3:39 pm
I’ve knitted a toddlers cardigan with cable, would I block before or after sewing the pieces together please.
November 26, 2020 @ 8:44 pm
Hi Connie – I don’t usually knit my sweaters in pieces, but I would think both.
Let’s Knit a Northward Hat | Tin Can Knits
November 5, 2020 @ 1:33 pm
[…] yarn, draw through the remaining live stitches, and pull to close top of hat. Weave in the ends and wet-block your hat. Attach a fabulous pom pom if you like. Put on your beanie, and you are ready for the cold […]
November 5, 2020 @ 3:54 am
Hello! I have blocked a sweater and it is about 75% dry. I am tempted to put it in the dryer on low to finish drying and fluff it up. It is a machine washable wool. How much would I regret this?
November 5, 2020 @ 1:33 pm
Hi Suzy – It should be fine, but if you happen to have a swatch I’d wash that first and see what happens
August 29, 2020 @ 2:51 pm
Is it helpful to leave your garment pinned On the mat for a while after it dries—will this help it better keep its shape?
August 31, 2020 @ 11:43 am
Hi Barbra – Nope, one it’s dry, it’s dry.
May 21, 2020 @ 1:33 pm
If I don’t have a wool wash is it still beneficial to block in cold water? I’m not sure how important the wool wash is and I don’t currently have access to any.
Thanks for all these great patterns and tutorials! I just knitted my first mitten!
May 22, 2020 @ 9:36 am
Hi Kaitlynn – Not very important! Go ahead an block it in cold water.
Measuring Gauge over Lace | Tin Can Knits
April 1, 2020 @ 2:32 am
[…] Wet block the swatch in the same way you would the final lace piece, allowing it to dry fully before unpinning. We’ve got tutorials on the basics of blocking, and how to block a lace shawl that you may want to review. […]
March 9, 2020 @ 2:30 pm
How do you block the beanie barley hat? I loved knitting this beanie! Thank you for the pattern!
March 10, 2020 @ 4:08 pm
I usually just lay it flat to dry, but you can block it over a bowl to avoid those creases too
February 1, 2020 @ 11:47 am
Whoops, I weaved in my ends before reading your note about doing that after wet blocking. Is this detrimental? Should I still do it?
February 4, 2020 @ 12:26 pm
Hi Michelle – Definitely still do it! It’s not that big of a deal
January 23, 2020 @ 11:44 am
Is there anything done differently for blocking mittens or other items done in the round? I’m a beginner and I’d like to block my Maize mittens, but I’m slightly confused as to how to lay them out and stretch them.
(PS Love everything about Tin Can Knits – the Maize Pattern and Tutorials have been awesome and I’m so thrilled to have done my first mitten! Looking forward to trying more patterns! Thanks Alexa and Emily for all your incredible work!)
January 23, 2020 @ 12:00 pm
Hi Ardith – For mitts I usually just lay them flat. You don’t really want to stretch them necessarily. For things like lace or sweaters I like them to have a nice straight button band, or sleeves, but for mittens (and most hats) I just lay them flat!
August 31, 2019 @ 4:07 am
What would recommend for a cotton/rayon blend for the flax sweater?
September 4, 2019 @ 12:53 pm
Hi Julie – I’m sorry, I don’t really have a recommendation since I almost always work in wool, but if you check out the projects on Ravelry knitters have made the Flax in all sorts of different yarns and fibers.
July 26, 2019 @ 10:33 pm
Suggestions for blocking a cotton lace pattern vest, please.
August 1, 2019 @ 11:32 pm
I’d follow the instructions here: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2014/06/26/how-to-block-a-lace-shawl/
July 8, 2019 @ 11:00 am
can I use safety pins instead of blocking pins? Also, can I just leave the piece in a rolled up dry towel or lying on a towel connected with safety pins with another one on top and something slightly heavy on top of it? All my projects are small things where the size isn’t very important
July 15, 2019 @ 9:44 pm
Hi – yep, you can use safety pins instead of blocking pins, as long as they won’t rust. I’m not sure I understand the towel strategy, but any way you can lay it flat to dry sounds fine.
September 17, 2018 @ 11:33 am
Love your detailed instructions especially with links to other items of interest such as a stitch. Really enjoying your Barley Hat in cotton as a chemo cap gift. Thank you!!!
June 21, 2018 @ 12:55 pm
Hi I have just knitted a lacy cardigan with picot edging in cotton. Will blocking sto the picot edge rolling up? Wendy
June 25, 2018 @ 4:29 am
Blocking can solve a lot of problems! When it doubt, block it out!
May 29, 2018 @ 11:02 pm
Psst. https://www.yarn.com/products/knitters-pride-knit-blockers
<- These will change the way you block. I have bad eyesight so stepping on a pin was inevitability so I was less than enthused about blocking, but these are brightly visible. Plus, pins can cause weird scalloping; nice straight edges are really easy to get with these. :)
January 10, 2018 @ 6:41 pm
Hi dear. Can you speed up the wet blocking process by steam ironing over a wet towel and then pin it?
January 13, 2018 @ 7:07 pm
Hi Tamika – you can, but I don’t particularly trust myself with an iron, steam, and my knitting. The wrong move can be a recipe for felted disaster!
December 9, 2017 @ 4:24 pm
I am making a wrap/shawl and it says to block work. I will try it as your instructions but will this wrap/shawl need to be blocked each time it is washed? This is a gift and will I need to let the person know to block it once she washes it. Thank you
December 11, 2017 @ 9:58 am
Hi Jessi
I would lay it flat to dry (as I would with any knitwear), but I only really block my shawls once a year or so. It doesn’t need to be blocked each time.
November 19, 2018 @ 11:47 pm
If it was knit with wool, you won’t need to wash it every year. And blocking is not always needed, but only when it needs to be re-shaped. Blocking means to use moisture to give it shape. You can just lay flat and make smooth with your hands, stretching when necessary. Lace does benefit from stretching out as much as possible. This is NOT a very difficult job!
November 20, 2018 @ 11:48 am
Hi – I like to give everything a bit of a refresh, my knits get a fair amount of wear throughout the year and my kids wear their knitting pretty hard. You are correct, blocking isn’t always needed
October 11, 2017 @ 8:22 pm
How should I block my Flax?
October 12, 2017 @ 9:39 am
Hi Claire – check out our sweater blocking tutorial here: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2015/10/15/how-to-block-a-hand-knit-sweater/
I’ve updated the link in the post as well, it seems it was a little out of date!
October 3, 2017 @ 7:10 am
Knitted my scarf but after blocking it ended up longer. Is there anything you can do to shorten again or can you take stitches out after blocking to shorten?
October 3, 2017 @ 8:28 pm
Hi Kathleen – you bet! You could try blocking it again and making sure to block it at the dimensions you like first, but if that doesn’t work you can take ’em out!
September 30, 2017 @ 9:21 pm
Hi! I’m currently knitting the Winding Way socks, and I want to know how to block lace socks. I don’t actually have sock blockers, so what I do is I use towels that are folded up to be thicker (usually one, haven’t knitted anything that big yet), and pin the piece out using stainless steel plastic head pins I got from my mom’s sewing drawer. I know lace needs to stretch out usually, but how should I go about this blocking socks?
November 19, 2018 @ 11:50 pm
Yes, you can use that rolled up towel as a blocker for socks. Or you can lay them flat, and pin them out, if you wish. Yes, lace benefits from being stretched out as much as you can, but with socks, you don’t have to. After washing, just lay them flat, smoothening out as much as you can. You will stretch them further when wearing them!
August 12, 2017 @ 9:40 am
My sleeves are separate. They are about 1″ too long, do I just scrunch them up , re wet, or blow dry shorter. This is my first sweater blocking experience😜Help!!
August 12, 2017 @ 11:10 am
I don’t think blocking will save the day this time, I don’t think you can block things smaller. If they are separate I would take out an inch before you block
July 21, 2017 @ 7:58 am
Should I block a sweater knitted with Linpur linen yarn?
July 21, 2017 @ 9:41 am
Yep, I block everything!
October 3, 2017 @ 11:40 am
All knitting, and I mean ALL your knitting, MUST be blocked to call it finished. Without blocking, you are missing the most important step of all that work! Blocking will improve your knitting 120% and you will look like a professional. Don’t skip this most important step!!
May 29, 2017 @ 8:05 am
Should I sew the buttons on my sweater before or after I block? I’ve already woven in the “ends” so I hope that won’t be a problem. I’ve knitted for years and years and have never blocked before but I think this latest project needs blocking.
May 29, 2017 @ 2:04 pm
Hi Rhona – I usually block before I sew my buttons but I’m not sure it matters. My sweaters get a re-block every year and they have buttons on them!
May 10, 2017 @ 1:05 pm
where do you buy blocking equipment?
May 12, 2017 @ 11:13 am
I have some blocking wires and pins I’ve picked up at my local yarn shop, but my mats are from Canadian Tire, lots of hardware stores or baby stores have them!
Spring Cleaning….your knits! | Tin Can Knits
April 25, 2017 @ 6:01 am
[…] a sweater), and anything else that has worked it’s way out of shape gets a re-block too (blocking basics here). Knits that will be stored over the summer should be washed in advance of storage, as oils and […]
March 21, 2017 @ 10:31 am
great blog and brilliant set of questions and answers
my question (do you need to block acrylic yarn) got answered!
Let’s Knit an Antler Toque | Tin Can Knits
February 9, 2017 @ 12:43 pm
[…] Break yarn leaving an 8” tail. Thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight and secure end. Weave in your ends and give your hat a block. […]
Let’s Knit some super simple mittens | Tin Can Knits
December 1, 2016 @ 9:00 am
[…] in your ends and block your mittens. You are ready to wear them […]
October 19, 2016 @ 3:58 am
Hi,
I am knitting the Snowflake pullover and I am wondering about whether to block the lace yoke before joining round. Any tips please? Is it necessary? Or will the lace open up sufficiently if I only block the finished garment. The thought of blocking and pinning with all those live stitches makes me nervous!
(In case it’s important to know, the yarn is a wool/bamboo blend, nice and squishy – I’d hate to damage it).
Thanks.
October 19, 2016 @ 9:32 am
Hi – I think it is best if the yoke is blocked before joining in the round. I would put the stitches on waste yarn and give them a wet block. It opens the lace up a little more fully than when the sweater is complete
September 15, 2016 @ 4:27 am
Hi,
I was looking for some advice on blocking a large circular shawl. It’s 64in in diameter. The problem is that there is no carpet and the biggest bed available is a twin size. Could I try blocking it on the hardwood by taping (scotch tape, masking tape, duct tape) it into place? It’s a pretty sturdy wool, so I doubt scotch tape or masking tape would hurt it, but I was wondering if you knew any other way or if you’d heard of anyone trying this method. I can’t seem to find anything on the web for blocking such a large item without a big enough bed or carpeted floor.
September 15, 2016 @ 9:19 am
Hmm, a logistical question. I might try masking tape if you don’t think it will hurt the wool.
July 7, 2016 @ 6:15 pm
I am finishing a sweater that I inherited from my great great great aunt and it is all in pieces (front, back, sleeves). Should I block the pieces first and then stitch them together? I would still need to finish the yoke and lapels once together since it is a button up.They are done in a super bulky yarn in k2p2. I am confused in which order I should be blocking, stitching together, and finishing it. Thanks.
July 8, 2016 @ 10:53 am
Hi Jen – I understand the confusion, which order to do those things is definitely a matter of debate among knitters. I would say, block the piece, sew them together, add the button bands and collar, then block the whole sweater.
Blocking: Part 1. – rockabellacraftsuk
April 27, 2016 @ 3:21 am
[…] TinCanKnits Purl SoHo Coming soon – Part 2: Ways to […]
March 25, 2016 @ 12:42 pm
I am knitting a dish cloth with cotton yarn. I see some small spaces ( just a little loose). Should I block it and if I do, will it look better and closed spaces?
March 29, 2016 @ 12:19 am
Hi Pat – blocking will help to ‘even out’ your stitches, so it will most likely fix those slightly looser sts
May 5, 2016 @ 9:03 am
Thank you for the tips alexaludeman.. Sorry it has been a while…🤓
March 18, 2016 @ 1:51 pm
I Just finished a sweater knit in a tube in a garter rib stitch. I’m not sure how to block it to even the stitches out. Could you please advise me?
March 19, 2016 @ 7:57 pm
I think I would block it like any other sweater (sweater blocking tutorial here), I’m not 100% sure what you mean by garter rib stitch?
December 22, 2015 @ 7:02 am
I block with my steam iron. Is this method better?
December 22, 2015 @ 10:17 pm
Blocking with steam can work well too, we just prefer to wet-block because it is very effective and thorough. Also, it is the method you will use after you hand-wash your knits.
December 4, 2015 @ 12:49 pm
If I rinse my wool scarf in a bit of lanolin, will it soften it? Is it advised? How much lanolin in a sink of water? Does acrylic knitting need blocking, or can you just iron it? Thank you,
December 22, 2015 @ 10:20 pm
I’m not aware whether adding lanolin will soften a wool scarf. I have heard that using hair conditioner can help. Sorry I also have very little experience blocking acrylic. I don’t believe wet-blocking will have much of an effect, but I could be wrong… You’re probably more experienced than I am in that regard. I’d simply try it and see.
November 8, 2015 @ 8:50 am
The edges of my croched scarf roll up…Is there some way I can flatten that area without blocking?
November 11, 2015 @ 3:11 am
Not really! I’d suggest you try blocking. Some kinds of stitch patterns in knitting and crochet have an innate tendency to roll, and blocking can help with this, but the fabric will eventually roll, it’s just a matter of time, with these kinds of patterns.
How to block a hand-knit sweater | Tin Can Knits
October 15, 2015 @ 5:55 am
[…] any other piece of knitting. If you’ve never heard of blocking, you might like to read our Blocking Basics post first, as it illustrates the basic steps that we cover […]
October 9, 2015 @ 7:19 am
Hi Alexa,
When should I sew buttons on my Antler Cardigan – before or after blocking?
Thanks,
Katie
October 13, 2015 @ 2:52 pm
Hi Katie – I usually do it after, when my button bands are blocked and even.
September 6, 2015 @ 3:19 am
Hello, thanks for all the tips and tutorials you post, they are really helpful. I knitted the MALT blanket but it’s not the first time I had a problem while blocking. I think the stitches ar too stretched and I can see the carpet underneath through them. I’m afraid it will not be as pretty as it was before I blocked it.Do you have a tip for avoiding over stretching? I don’t know if I’m clear enough, english is not my first language.
September 7, 2015 @ 9:05 am
Hi Marjorie – When you are blocking you want to make sure you are laying your item flat, not stretching it (lace is a bit of a different story). Since Malt is a worsted weight blanket it can get pretty heavy when wet so you want to make sure you squeeze out as much water as possible, it will probably take rolling it in a towel and squeezing out the water a few times to really get the bulk of the water out. When you lay it out try not to stretch it, if it does seem too stretchy try to smoosh it back into place.
April 27, 2015 @ 9:23 am
one more thing please …pattern instructs me to join shoulders and pick up sts…before or after blocking?
it doesn;t say
April 28, 2015 @ 12:21 pm
I would join shoulders and pick up before blocking, because I would want to block that seam later. Good question though
April 27, 2015 @ 9:11 am
i am completing a baby dress ,st/st so the bottom edge wants to roll up will pins make a straight edge? ,how far apart should the pins be set? GREAT BLOG btw
April 28, 2015 @ 12:22 pm
Well, as a rule, I don’t think you can possibly ‘over pin’ so maybe 1.5 inches apart? Pinning will straighten some things out, but if it’s a stockinette edge it will still roll a bit, it’s the nature of the fabric. If you want a straight edge I would do a garter st or ribbed border.
March 6, 2015 @ 11:38 am
I did not notice any instructions regarding raised stitches such as cables but do you block the garter stitch borders?
March 9, 2015 @ 3:34 pm
We block them the same way, sometimes more aggressively to really show the sts
January 3, 2015 @ 10:10 pm
#2. You say press out the bubbles.please elaborate.
January 5, 2015 @ 6:33 pm
Hi Beth
I’m not quite sure how to elaborate. You are literally pressing on the garment so the bubbles come out.
December 28, 2014 @ 11:30 pm
How do you press out bubbles when your knitting is submerged in soapy water?
December 29, 2014 @ 5:57 pm
Hmm, I’m not sure what you mean, I usually use a wool wash that doesn’t need to be rinsed out and press with my hands. Does that help?
December 9, 2014 @ 6:47 am
If you are knitting a wool cowl and it has a design “roll”on each end, how do you block it? Do you”unroll” it and pin it??? Or do you leave the roll? If you pIn it straight will the “roll” snap back when dry?
December 12, 2014 @ 9:06 am
It doesn’t really matter too much, since it will roll back no matter what you do. I would pin it out to even out the sts.
December 5, 2014 @ 6:14 am
Instead of stomping in a ‘towel protection’, couldn’t you protect it in a pillowcase and spin it?
December 12, 2014 @ 9:07 am
I wouldn’t, tends to mash up your knitting and sometimes it stretches different parts in different ways.
Woops | LeesVoer
November 19, 2014 @ 4:14 am
[…] niet af maak. dus nu uithalen, ademhalen en opnieuw… Daarna duizend draadjes wegwerken, blocken en dan kan ik hem echt aan jullie laten […]
November 11, 2014 @ 12:59 pm
Reblogged this on This Little Blue Homestead and commented:
Reading up on Blocking to decide what to do about the Christmas presents that are ‘flying’ off my needles
Let’s Knit a Sweater | Tin Can Knits
September 7, 2014 @ 9:37 pm
[…] a sweater can be the most important part. Block your sweater and weave in your ends. There will be a small hole at the underarm, use your tail to sew that […]
September 4, 2014 @ 8:50 am
For a 2 month infant, I made the Moderne Lincoln Square blanket. Can I wash it in baby Dreft detergent and since I am a little nervous about blocking 34″ by 30 blanket I was thinking of then having a knitting store do it. What are suggestions?
September 4, 2014 @ 2:37 pm
Hi Tali
What yarn did you use? If it’s a washable wool you can wash it in the machine and I would lay it flat to dry. If it is a wool you should hand wash for sure. Basically you will want to follow the washing instructions on the yarn and I recommend laying it flat to dry.
August 12, 2014 @ 8:44 pm
I’m making your Wheat scarf right now. I’ve never blocked my knitting before but will definitely give it a go this time around. Thanks for the clear instructions.
March 25, 2014 @ 4:54 pm
Hi and thanks! How do you block 3D things like a hat, sweater, or Möbius cowl, though?
March 25, 2014 @ 10:21 pm
Yep, I block EVERYTHING! There was a time when I thought it was a waste of time but I am a huge convert to the world of the block. I usually just block my hats flat but if it’s a beret or lacy I will block it over a plate or bowl. The sweater or Mobius cowl I would block flat.
May 5, 2016 @ 9:08 am
Alexaludeman
Thank you for all this advice! I have been knitting for over 20 years and like you at first…why block? Now I do too…really helps and I have always used the towel method, never in a washer…no no.
Have a good day.
March 20, 2014 @ 4:05 pm
Hi, great post! Just wondering, is it absolutely necessary to use a wool wash if the fibers aren’t animal-based, e.g. acrylic? Are there any alternatives or home-made solutions?
Thanks in advance!
March 25, 2014 @ 2:01 pm
If you have acrylic blocking won’t make a difference so you can skip it altogether!
February 22, 2018 @ 8:08 am
So…If I use acrylic yarn I don’t have to block? Or…If I use acrylic yarn I don’t have to use a softener?
March 13, 2018 @ 11:02 am
Hi Carla – I don’t really know too much about care for acrylics. They don’t have ‘memory’ like wool, so I don’t think blocking will really do anything. I would definitely give a finished item a wash regardless. Check the instructions on the ball band too!
March 18, 2014 @ 8:14 am
Hi! Thanks for the tutorial! I was wondering if we have to do blocking only once or if we need to do it each time we wash the knitted sweater, for instance.
March 25, 2014 @ 2:02 pm
I would block it carefully the first time and always lay it flat to dry myself. So you are sort of blocking it each time. But lots of people use washable wools they toss in the dryer so it’s knitters choice!
March 13, 2014 @ 6:41 am
Great tutorial – thanks! Dumb question – why would you not want to use pins for a sweater?
March 14, 2014 @ 4:03 am
Hi Kim
It really depends on the sweater. If it has lace, for example, or if I need a little extra length or width etc. then I would use pins. Otherwise, on a simple sweater, I would just be blocking to smooth out the stitches so no pins required.
March 14, 2014 @ 4:37 am
OK, I think I understand. Thanks very much!
March 7, 2014 @ 2:55 pm
Where do I buy a blocking board?
March 14, 2014 @ 4:06 am
Your LYS is great if you have one. Otherwise you can use a piece of cardboard or I use foam puzzle mats, the kind they have for kiddies, the hardware store will have these.
Free pattern Friday: Oats | espacetricot
August 30, 2013 @ 7:58 am
[…] The Oats cowl is the third project in The Simple Collection – a learn to knit series with 8 free patterns and clear tutorials provided by Tin Can Knits. In addition to clearly written patterns, Tin Can Knits has made available a great selection of online tutorials (e.g. How to Cast On (video), How to Knit (video), How to Purl (video), How to Bind Off (Video), How to Knit Your First Scarf, How to Weave in Ends, Basic Blocking) […]