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Gramps Cardigan: Shawl Collar and Button Band (5/6)

April 4, 2012


So at the end our last lesson, our project finally resembled a sweater; with all the most important constituent parts completed.  This tutorial and the next are simply the home stretch – polishing off the details.  Soon a lucky little cutie will be sporting this darling sweater!

This tutorial is part 5 of a 6-part tutorial covering sweater knitting techniques for the Gramps cardigan. To view the other parts of the tutorial click on the links below.

Short row shawl collar and a button band

Currently the work has an unfinished edge at the fronts, and a cast on at the neck opening. It is useful to read the pattern instructions through before beginning this portion of the project.

The button band and shawl collar are worked at once, you will pick up all of your stitches, placing 4 markers as instructed. The work will be separated by these markers into five sections: the right button band, right neckline, back neck, left neckline, and left button band.


How to pick up stitches for a button band:

You will be using your CC and smaller needles for the button band.

Where to pick up? It seems like you would want to pick up sts in the very edge of your work. BUT edge stitches tend to be a little messy, so to make a nice neat edge you want to pick up 1 stitch in from the edge, in the nice clear ‘v’.


To pick up a stitch, insert the tip of your needle THROUGH the edge of the work, 1 stitch in from the edge. Wrap the yarn around the needle, and using the tip of the needle, draw a loop up through the work from the WS to the RS of the work.


You are picking up your first stitch at the bottom edge of the right button band


Insert your needle from the RS of the work to the WS


Place a loop of new yarn over your needle


and draw it through the RS. You have picked up one stitch!

Right front: With RS facing, starting at the bottom of right front, pick up and knit approximately 3 sts
in every 4 rows to locking stitch marker, ending with an even number of sts in this section. Remove locking marker and place a marker on the needle,

What does that mean, 3 sts in every 4 rows? It means you are going to pick up a stitch in each row, for 3 rows, then you are going to skip over 1 row, pick up 3 sts in the next 3 rows, skip 1 row etc.


Place the locking stitch marker on your needle

Place the locking stitch marker on your needle

Right neckline: continue, picking up and knitting approximately 1 stitch in every row to cast-on, ending with an odd number of sts in this section, then PM,

Back neck: continue, picking up and knitting one stitch in each cast on stitch, PM,

Left neckline: continue, picking up the same number of sts as right neckline to next locking marker. Remove locking marker and place marker on needle,

Left front: continue, picking up the same number of sts as right front to bottom of left front. After picking up, there should be an odd number of sts to each side of the back neck section.

Each section of the pick up requires you to end with either an odd or an even number of sts, depending on the section. If you find you are going to pick up the incorrect amount, simply skip an extra row to get the right number.

Pick up complete!

Pick up complete! You now have 4 markers and you are ready to work your button band!

OK, now take a deep breath and congratulate yourself; that was the most fussy bit of the entire project, in my opinion, and it is now complete.  The knitting is (mostly) clear sailing from this point onward.

On the next row (WS) you will establish the p1,k1 ribbing. At the back neck (indicated in the image above by the 2 black ring markers) you will be doubling the number of sts by working a kfb increase.

Then you will start working SHORT ROWS to shape the shawl collar. The short rows commence on the RS of the work.


A short row is a row in which you knit along, then stop SHORT of the end of the row, and turn the work, and knit back in the other direction INSTEAD of knitting to the end of the row as you would normally.  The best way to understand short rows is to get on with it, and knit a project that uses them, and you will see how they work.

So you simply follow the instructions, step by step.  Work in ribbing to 2 or 4 sts past the last marker, then stop, w&t (wrap and turn).

What is a w&t?!  There are many different ways to work a wrap and turn. I like German Short Rows, but there is also the classic wrap and turn as follows:

1. Stop at location indicated (2 or 4 sts past the last marker)
2. Bring the yarn to the front of the work
3. slip the next stitch from LH to RH needle
4. Put the yarn back to the back of the work.
5. TURN the work  (in this case, I now have the WS facing)
6. Slip the stitch back from what is now the LH needle to what is now the RH needle, WITHOUT working the stitch.  Then proceed to work back in the other direction.  (If the first stitch to be worked is a knit, you will have to put the yarn to the back of the work, if it is a purl, it can remain in the front)


For my size, I am stopping 2 sts past the last marker


Move your yarn to the front of the work between the needles.


Slip the next stitch purlwise from the left need to the right needle.


Move your yarn to the back of the work.


Turn your work (the yarn will now be in the front)


Slip the stitch back from the left needle to the right. That stitch is now wrapped.

The RESULT of these steps is that you are knitting in the other direction, and you have a stitch which has the yarn wrapped around its base, but has NOT been worked on this row.

Continue to follow the pattern, stopping and working wrap & turns where indicated. The instructions tell you to work to a number of sts before the gap…what is that?


After you have completed all these directions, proceed as called for in the pattern:

Work as established to end of row, picking up and knitting or purling wraps together with the stitches that they wrap.

So after your final wrap and turn, you work all the way to the end of the row.  When you encounter a ‘wrapped’ stitch, you will insert your RH needle into the wrap (knitwise or purlwise, depending on the stitch), and then into the stitch it wraps and knit or purl the 2 together.


Insert your right needle into the wrap....

Insert your right needle into the wrap….

..and the stitch on the needle. Work these sts together by either purling them together or knitting them together to keep the ribbing in pattern.

..and the stitch on the needle. Work these sts together by either purling them together or knitting them together to keep the ribbing in pattern.

This is what the wraps look like once they have been picked up.

This is what the wraps look like once they have been picked up.

You have short rows on either side of the collar so you will be picking up wraps as you come to them to the end of this row and on the next row. Then the short-row-shaping is complete!  You can see how adding short rows has added extra fabric to the part of the collar which folds over. Follow the pattern directions for the number of additional ribbing rows required before the buttonhole row.

Short rows create the extra fabric needed for a fold-over shawl collar.

Short rows create the extra fabric needed for a fold-over shawl collar.


Your short rows are done, but your sweater still needs to button up! You will still have your 4 markers in your work. Your buttonholes can be placed on the left for a manly sweater or the right for a lady sweater (if you go for that kind of thing). For a detailed account of how to place your buttonholes check out the tutorial here.

We have suggested 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9) buttonholes, but it is a bit of a personal choice. You may prefer to work more or less, depending on any length alterations etc.

Once the buttonhole row is complete you will work a few more rows in ribbing and will be ready for the bind off.


Remember how we doubled our stitches at the back neck? Between the second and third markers? Well, when binding off we will have to work a special decrease bind off to deal with those stitches.

On a RS row you will work a regular bind off to the second marker (you can work either a regular knit bind off or bind off in pattern), then you will work a decreasing bind off over the back neck: [k2tog, pass first stitch over second and off needles] until all the back neck sts have been bound off. Then proceed with your regular bind off until all collar sts are bound off.


The bulk of the work is done, and there are only a couple tiny details to add before Gramps is complete. The next post will be:

  • 6/6 Finishing Touches: Working Patch Pockets – Picking up stitches in the middle of knitted fabric, seaming, elbow patches

Is there anything I covered that is unclear?  Did I miss any important points?  Please let me know what you think of these tutorials, and make suggestions for other tutorial topics by posting comments, or contact me directly.  Be sure to subscribe to the blog by email to receive each post as it goes live, right to your inbox!


For Knitting Instructors

This material is also intended to be useful to those who teach knitting. If you are a shop owner who runs knitting classes, and would like to use this tutorial for instruction, you are welcome to do so. Tin Can Knits wholesales books and single leaflet patterns to knitting shops in Canada, the USA and the UK, if you are interested in carrying our products, please contact us.

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More short rows from TCK:






124 Comments leave one →
  1. Heather T permalink
    May 11, 2021 11:46 am

    *ribbing not rubbing…darn autocorrect!

  2. Heather T permalink
    May 11, 2021 11:44 am

    Hi, first I want to say I love this pattern, it is very clearly written and the tutorials are great. This is my first sweater and I am really learning a lot. But I’m stuck now at the buttonholes. I followed the pattern instructions and your tutorials for three hole buttonholes but now I am no longer able to keep to the rubbing pattern at the buttonhole, it seems like an extra stitch has been introduced. Of the three original stitches, I have bound off two, leaving the third. And then I cast on three stitches. So I now have 4 stitches instead of three and it takes me out of the rubbing pattern in the next row. I am doing something wrong, just not sure what. Thanks!

    • May 11, 2021 11:45 am

      Hi Heather – So glad you are enjoying the process! If you bind off 2 sts, you want to cast on 2 sts (same for a larger button hole, if you bind off 3 sts, cast on 3 sts)

      • Heather T permalink
        May 11, 2021 2:07 pm

        Thanks, I think i figured out how I mis-read the pattern- where it says “Pass the first st over the second (bind off), [sl1, bind stich off] twice” I just did two bind-offs and it is actually three. I’m new to pattern-reading and I missed the square brackets. Lesson learned!

  3. Cari White permalink
    May 7, 2021 8:51 am

    Work short rows in Campfire pattern
    Not sure about the line that states”repeat last instruction a total of’
    Not sure if I am to repeat just the w&t postmarks or just past the gap the allotted amount of times?

    • May 7, 2021 10:39 am

      Hi Cari – You are going to repeat this instruction: Work in pattern to 3 sts from the gap, w&t

  4. Beliinda Devery permalink
    May 2, 2020 11:17 pm

    I see that another knitter has mentioned the small loop left by a w&t. Will it disappear when we pick up the wraps or do you recommend a German short row? I see there is actually a Japanese one for ribbing too.

  5. Jenny King permalink
    November 14, 2019 7:10 am

    I have almost completed a Jones for my husband and I am wondering if I should do a decreasing bind off around the back as recommended for the Gramps?

    • November 19, 2019 8:48 pm

      Hi Jenny – we wanted the collar to lay a bit flatter than the gramps, but if you prefer it to ‘stand up’ a little more a decrease bind off works great!

  6. Paula permalink
    October 13, 2019 10:31 am

    I’m having trouble understanding how to make the buttonholes. Could you please post images of that?

  7. Ruth Doyle permalink
    January 22, 2019 7:58 am

    I would like to knit the Lush pattern but before I buy the pattern I need to know is it a written pattern or a chart
    Regards Ruth

  8. Glenda Bell permalink
    September 19, 2018 7:34 am

    Love the visuals but this where I am confused. When you encounter a ‘wrapped’ stitch, you will slip the stitch to the RH needle, then use the LH needle to pick up the wrap, putting it on the LH needle as if it were a stitch. Then slip the original stitch back onto the LH needle. Now the wrap and the stitch are on the LH needle, next to one another, and you can either k2tog or p2tog, depending on whether that wrapped stitch is a knit or a purl.

    The written seems to deviate from the pictures. The only thing I see is inserting the right needle into the wrapped stitch then the stitch on the left hand needle and then k2tog. I also don’t see the wrap and stitch on the LH needle next to one another. I see this happening on the right needle before they are knitted together.

    I really want to buy this pattern but it’s a lot of work before getting to this point and I don’t want to get there and not be able to figure it out.

    The support you give is awesome. Thanks!

    • September 19, 2018 3:53 pm

      Hi Glenda – correct you are! The two ideas amount to the same thing in the end, but I’ve re-worded it to match the way I did it in the pictures.

      You may want to also check out our German Short Row tutorial, if you are new to short rows they can be a little easier.

  9. Silvia permalink
    March 12, 2018 8:53 am

    Short rows…clear as Mud!!! I followed step by step, instruction by instruction and still managed to mess it up!!!
    But Ian very glad that you have the tutorials here.
    Love the Cardigan.

  10. Lorelle permalink
    February 7, 2018 2:23 pm

    Thankyou for making it all so very clear. I have found that not only are your patterns well written but these extra techniques have been very helpful to me. Many thanks.

  11. September 19, 2017 7:48 am

    Arg. Thought I had w&t figured out in the Gramps sweater until I finished the 8 rows and discovered the wraps were all stacked on top of each other. I guess I couldn’t figure out where the 3 sts before the gap were. Any helpful advice for me? I feel the original markers were getting in the way. Should each wrap be marked each time I do one so I am ready for the next row? Your tutorials are great but the one for w&t just showed the first one. I need more help than that. Thank you. This is such a cute sweater. Can hardly wait to finish it and start another. Mommo

    • September 20, 2017 11:51 am

      Another way of putting it is 2 sts before the wrapped stitch, does that make it a little clearer? You can also put a locking stitch marker in the wrapped stitch so it’s crystal clear!

    • Mommo permalink
      October 12, 2017 5:59 am

      Thank you. I put a marker at each w&t which made it easy to figure out where to do the next one. They are all now finished, picked up, buttonholes made, ready to bind off. Thanks for your help. Great sweater!

  12. Cathie permalink
    July 13, 2017 2:41 am

    Oh my. I was feeling thrilled with my efforts completing the short rows. Then disaster. Somehow I messed up the picking up of the wrapped stitches. Tried to knit back and that was an even bigger disaster. Now it looks like I’m back to picking up the band all over again. Feel like crying. Hopefully the pick up will be more successful next time!

  13. Andrea permalink
    June 24, 2017 9:15 am

    Hello – I’m picking up the stitches for the Right Front and I’m a bit confused about ending with an even number of stitches. Do you mean the total picked up for the section? So if I’ve ended on a set of 3 which equals an odd total, should I just pick up 1 more OR 3 more to get an even number?

    • June 26, 2017 9:41 am

      Hi Andrea – You will want to count up the sts you have picked up for the right front and make sure it’s an even number. If it’s odd you can pick up one extra stitch or drop one to make it an even number.

  14. Cindy wedzinga permalink
    June 2, 2017 2:13 pm

    I am at the short row collar shaping making the size 5/6. I am wondering how many wrapped stitches in total i should have when finished for this size. I have 12 wraps marked now in this section but am confused when it says work short rows 1-2 a total of 7 times. Does this mean i will have a total of 18 wrapped stitches or 11 by this point. Also when I am finished this part and the instructions say work in ribbing to the end of the row does this mean down the left an right front or just the short row section. Thanks so much

    • June 2, 2017 9:54 pm

      At the end of the short rows you will have 16 short rows, 8 on each side: one for each of the 2 set up rows and two for each repeat of rows 1-2.

      Once the short rows are complete you will be working the button bands and Shawl collar as one, working the entire row.

  15. Cindy wedzinga permalink
    May 30, 2017 11:12 am

    I am picking up the stitches on the right front to begin button band and collar. I have picked up to first marker but am unsure how far to go for right neckline. Is it the first seam or the second seam where the sleeve comes out of. I am thinking the first seam and then pick up for back neck.

    • May 30, 2017 11:51 am

      Hi Cindy – the right neckline is the sts from the marker to the cast on sts.

  16. janin permalink
    May 28, 2017 1:30 am

    thank u soo much for the article and detailed explanation its very helpful thank u

  17. March 20, 2017 9:25 am

    I want to do this sweater for our first great grandson.

    Cant seem to find the whole pattern.

    Can you help me please

  18. Rachael permalink
    March 15, 2017 9:46 am

    Hello Tin Cat Knits,
    Before I ask my question, I would like to commend you on your tutorials they are very helpful. That being said I am stuck on the shawl collar. Elizabeth Marche Norsingle asked the same question,but I still need some clarification as I am not sure what a cast on stitch is. Does right neckline end and back neck begin at the shoulder join or just before. Thanks so much for taking the time to read my question

    • March 16, 2017 1:27 pm

      Hi Rachael: A cast on stitch is one of the sts you cast on at the very beginning of the sweater.

  19. Elizabeth Marche Norsingle permalink
    January 17, 2017 5:06 pm

    I have a question and it might be very obvious but for some reason I can’t figure it out. Where should the right neck end? I know it begins after the clip marker but I have no idea where to stop and place the next marker for the back neck. I would love some assistance thanks!

  20. Barb aka knittingquilter permalink
    November 20, 2016 11:39 am

    Thank you so much for this tutorial, I have made a sweater for my hubby and had no clue how to do a button band with a shawl collar. This really will help me

  21. Angie permalink
    November 18, 2016 7:45 am

    There is no hyperlink to the button hole tutorial.

  22. Maria permalink
    October 22, 2016 1:52 pm

    I live in Mexico can I download the instructions?

    • October 23, 2016 12:35 am

      Hi Maria – the pattern is available as a PDF download so I don’t see why not. Cheers

  23. October 19, 2016 1:58 pm

    Esta lindisimo,pero x donde empiezo? C tejen las partes x separado o en uno solo ? Deganme x favor,y mil gracias,adoro sus modelos!!!!:-)

    • October 20, 2016 12:48 pm

      Hi Liliana – You definitely want to start at the first tutorial and get the pattern, Gramps is knit in one piece from the top down.

  24. Tammy permalink
    October 15, 2016 8:52 am

    Wonderful tutorial! Great pics and clear instructions. Do you have this same patter in adult women’s size?

    • October 19, 2016 9:36 am

      Hi Tammy – yep, our updated Gramps pattern comes sized from baby to big!

  25. Sarah permalink
    September 14, 2016 3:21 pm

    Hi, quick question when picking up stitches for shawl collar. Right front even # of stitches, right neckline odd # of sts, back of neck odd # of sts? Left neckline and left front same as right?

    • September 14, 2016 8:48 pm

      Hi Sarah – you have it right, what is the question?

      • Victoria permalink
        November 30, 2019 9:07 pm

        The pattern doesn’t say how many for back neckline, I think that was the question.

      • December 2, 2019 1:21 pm

        It’s the cast on number.

  26. Robyn O'Neill permalink
    September 9, 2016 11:37 pm

    Hi all. I have been a keen knitter for many years but have never knitted a top down jumper before (maybe it’s because I live down under!). Like many of you in the comments I have learned a lot from this experience and have benefitted hugely from your questions and answers – so thank you all :). I am knitting the 2-4 year size of Gramps for a wee friend and so far so good but the collar is going to be a real challenge! All I can say is I have no idea how I managed before online tutorials, YouTube instructions and great online support from the TinCan team. Now, lets see what the collar is up to …. Happy Knitting :)

  27. Lyndsey permalink
    July 1, 2016 4:32 pm

    Just starting the collar and button band section, where it says kfb, am I increasing in every stitch of the collar section?

    • July 3, 2016 10:28 am

      Hi Lyndsey – you are doubling the number of stitches at the back neck.

      • June 4, 2017 7:18 pm

        Hi! Great tutorial- thank you :). Similar question, even though you say to double the number of stitches, I’m confused that pattern says (at set up WS) to Kfb to 1 stitch before marker- that makes me think I should stop at that last stitch before the marker and knit it plain. But of course that messes up the number of stitches for ribbing…?

      • June 5, 2017 4:36 pm

        You are going to work kfb to 1 stitch before marker, then you will k1, (p1, k1) to last stitch, p1

      • Marsha Jones permalink
        March 20, 2018 10:49 am

        When the instructions say kfb to 1 stitch before next marker…that means every stitch…correct ???? ….kfb every stitch …….or kfb,p,kfb,p..etc

      • March 21, 2018 11:30 am

        Hi Marsha – yep, that means every stitch.

  28. Helen Hare permalink
    June 28, 2016 4:08 am

    Perhaps i’m over thinking the short rows….
    1) does it matter how you slip (and slip back) the stitch you end up wrapping? Some places online seem to say purlwise, others knitwise, you don’t specify which I suppose means it doesn’t matter but might mean you have a habit of slipping in one particular manner unless otherwise specified.

    2) This is within ribbing (2×2) so it seems that the stitch to be slipped and wrapped and slipped is changing from a knit to a purl row by row. Is the premise still

    2. Bring the yarn to other side of the work
    3. slip the next stitch from LH to RH needle
    4. Put the yarn back to the work side of the work
    5. TURN the work
    6. Slip the stitch back from what is now the LH needle to what is now the RH needle, WITHOUT working the stitch. You may need to move the yarn to the appropriate side of the work for the next stitch

    As ever, so reliant on the TCK tutorials. Currently working on a Lush, my first ever non-accessory garment for myself. Loving it, and the Rainbow Heirloom yarn, so very keen to make as polished an end garment as possible!

    • June 28, 2016 9:18 am

      Hi Helen

      I always slip purlwise unless otherwise specified. This is because slipping purlwise doesn’t change the stitch, but slipping knitwise twists it.

      The premise of short rows is:
      bring the yarn to the other side of the work
      slip the next stitch from LH to RH
      move the yarn back
      move the stitch back
      Get ready for the next stitch, whichever side of the work the yarn needs to be on.
      It doesn’t really matter if you turn before you slip that stitch back or after, that’s just how I do it.

      You may also want to try German short rows, I find them a bit easier to get polished myself.

  29. Rhea Tripp permalink
    May 16, 2016 5:17 am

    I have completed the collar but I don’t understand how to work the button bands at the same time, Now I have a collar but no button bands. Do I just knit back and forth on the band? Look forward to hear from you.

    • May 16, 2016 1:12 pm

      Hi Rhea – I’m not sure what you mean by a collar but no button bands? Do you mean you have all the short rows? Just proceed to the next section….

  30. January 5, 2016 4:30 pm

    A few knitters have asked about the picked up wraps leaving an obvious stitch on the left side of the Gramps, as seen on the right in the example above. That will happen if you pick up the wrap like the example, which is on a K stitch. If you are picking up a wrap on a P stitch, pick up the wrap in the back, as seen on YouTube, KNITFreedom Hot to Hide Purl Wraps. Then both sides of the shawl collar will look the same!

  31. Kim permalink
    December 24, 2015 7:14 pm

    So I made a boo boo, I took off the locking stitch markers when I completed the yoke, didn’t realize until I’ve started picking up stitches that I shouldn’t have done that. Is there any way to get back on track?

    • December 24, 2015 11:08 pm

      Just take a look at the work – if you look carefully, you’ll be able to see where the line of increases, worked to shape the neckline, begins. Just put your locking stitch marker in this row, at the beginning and end. It’s not crucial that it’s 100% accurate, just that it’s on about the same row on each side.

      • Kim permalink
        December 26, 2015 2:21 pm

        Ok, I took your advice and added a lifeline through a row of stitches. However, I’m having an issue with the w&t. For some reason I noticed that one button band is larger. Are we working the wrap & turn only in the right and left neck line? I’m working the w&t then knit to the end of the row

      • December 31, 2015 10:43 am

        The wrap and turn is adding fabric and the collar, so it won’t extend all the way down the button band.

  32. Daniele permalink
    December 12, 2015 2:44 am

    OK so I know this is simple but am I supposed to literally pick up stitches in the first 3 front rows, skip one row, and pick up 3 more ect? For some reason I’m confused about the pick up and knit approximately 3 sts in every 4 rows to locking stitch marker part. When I look at the pictures it looks like a stitch was picked up in every front row before and after necklines.

    • December 13, 2015 11:57 pm

      Hi Daniele – yep, pick up 1 stitch in each row for 3 sts, then skip 1 row

  33. Jane Fletcher permalink
    December 8, 2015 2:40 pm

    What do you mean by ‘the gap’? Is it the marker that depicts the collar on both sides or does it have to do with the last wrapped stitch? Very helpful tutorial – thank you!

  34. Snyder Denise permalink
    December 2, 2015 11:13 am

    I am doing the size 2-4 yrs. sweater. I did not see the errata anywhere and did row A and Row B. I am up to short row 1, not sure where the “gap” is ??? Should I rip out Row A and B ?

  35. Jane permalink
    November 17, 2015 8:22 pm

    Just want to confirm that I should delete ‘setup row A (rs)’ & ‘setup row B (ws)’ in my pattern and move to ‘short row 1 (rs)’ & continue. Also, what is the ‘gap’ – is it the first marker? This tutorial has been a life saver for me – really appreciate it.

    • November 18, 2015 10:03 am

      Hi Jane – so you are deleting the second set up row (RS) at the end of the ‘button band and shawl collar section’, the ‘short row collar shaping’ section is correct.

  36. Jenny S permalink
    October 28, 2015 2:02 am

    Very, very, very informative. I’m a beginner, and yet I feel like a pro. Thank you so much! :)

  37. Rib permalink
    September 30, 2015 6:53 am

    I am picking up the stitches from the right side (knit side, stockinette) and knitting the contrast color as I pick up each stitch. The pattern then calls for me to return through the newly knit row from the wrong side to do a set up row creating a shawl collar. I had no trouble picking up the stitches, but the newly created row of knits were too tight for the return. How can I keep these looser?? I have only been a knitter for 18 mos so still consider myself an advanced beginner.

    I thought I was holding the CC yarn without tension but it seemed to tighten with each stitch. I had to pull the whole thing out and need suggestions before I try again.

  38. Hanna permalink
    September 25, 2015 7:01 pm

    I am finding your tutorial so helpful but am stuck right before short row collar shaping. I have the new version of the pattern. I finished Set up (WS) and Ribbing (RS) under button band and shawl collar. Under short row collar shaping – Setup row A (RS) doesn’t make sense to me. How can a RS row follow a RS row?

    • September 29, 2015 10:06 am

      Hi Hanna – there is an errata for Gramps, the Set up row A (RS) has been removed (proceed from the WS set up straight to short rows)

  39. April 6, 2015 7:24 pm

    About the collar again – when picking up the stitches you say pick up and knit. Does this literally mean pick a stitch and then knit it? The tutorial pictures show the picking up of a stitch then moving on to pick up the next stitch.

  40. April 6, 2015 6:54 pm

    Love this sweater but having trouble understanding the shawl – where is says Set up (WS) after picking up all the stitches is says to kfb between second marker and third marker (ie the back neck portion) does this mean every stitch in that portion thus doubling the amount of stitches. In the tutorial this row is completely absent and says to rib on the WS . Thanks Barbara

    • April 7, 2015 9:29 am

      Hi Barbara
      The tutorial is a bit out of date, we have since updated the pattern (including adding more sts at the back neck). You are correct, in order to get a nice big shawl collar you are doubling the sts at the back neck.

  41. iloveshoes permalink
    March 16, 2015 1:04 pm

    I am wanting to add a shawl collar to an adult cardigan that I plan to knit. Would I follow the same procedure in terms of short rows as on this smaller cardigan? Thanks.

  42. Debbie Williams permalink
    March 15, 2015 6:17 pm

    on pattern I purchased the instructions on the “short row collar shaping” tells me to work in ribbing to 2 sts PAST fourth marker , but on the tutorial the instruction says to work in ribbing to 2 sts BEFORE the last marker. Maybe it doesn’t make a difference. What should I do?

    • March 20, 2015 2:34 pm

      Follow the pattern. There are 2 versions out there and our tutorial represents the older version. Principles are the same but the details differ.

  43. Rachel Boothe permalink
    March 12, 2015 2:59 pm

    Thank you for this wonderful tutorial. When the short rows on the shawl collar are finished, and you begin the button band, will you still be knitting on the shawl collar portion of the garment?

  44. Debbie Widner permalink
    February 18, 2015 8:48 am

    Alexa, I need your help! I have picked up my sts for button band and shawl collar. I did so from right side of sweater. Had some difficulty undoing my crochet prov. cast on, but very slowly got those sts! I ended up having 38 instead of the co of 35. Will this make any difference????? After picking up on around, I was at LEFT FRONT of bottom edge of cardi, I then turned my work to be on WS to do SET UP. my second question/help I need is that on completion of WS SET UP row, will I be at bottom of Left Front edge??? If correct, I would proceed to short row collar shaping (tutorial, if understand correctly, start at right front edge). Thanks for any input. This little fellow is so cute. I hope I don’t mess up now!

    • Debbie Widner permalink
      February 18, 2015 9:04 am

      Above should have asked if after WS Set Up Row, will I be at bottom of Right Front edge of Cardigan( and not as I typed left front edge). Thanks a bunch for help!

    • February 19, 2015 3:00 am

      Hi Debbie – the important thing is that you have an odd number of stitches (so the ribbing setup works) and it is also important that you didn’t DROP any stitches when you unpicked the provisional cast on – because they could create ladders in your work. Just follow the pattern, and proceed to the short-row shaping as it says after your set-up row. And yes, you will be on the RS of the work, starting at the bottom right front of cardigan. Good luck!

      • Debbie Widner permalink
        February 19, 2015 11:26 am

        Thank you Emily for answering back so quickly. You are very early riser as time of reply is 3 a.m.!!! On my increases I did work out so as to have odd # of sts so my rib would be in pattern. This is my first knitted sweater and is just so cute. I may be guarding my grandson when he wears it! Ha Ha. I have learned several new skills by knitting this. I don’t think I could have done it though without your help and also the online tutorials. They have been such a huge help to me! Appreciate all your hard work. A big thank you from me, coming from Arkansas.

  45. Mudd permalink
    February 13, 2015 11:04 am

    Hi, I am picking up stirches and have done the right front and right neckline. For the collar, do I just put back on the yoke stitches I provisionally cast on (they still have scrap yarn through them) or do I actually knit and try to hide this?

    Thanks for your help!

    • February 13, 2015 1:19 pm

      If you have used a provisional cast on, unpick and put them on the left needle, then work your increases

      (just FYI the older version of the pattern has a provisional cast on, the newer version doesn’t because the larger sizes need a little structure at the neckline)

  46. sam permalink
    October 6, 2014 2:09 pm

    I ended at the last stictch of the collar. I could not figure out how the right and left front are continued to knit to make to button band. The picture is showed one row of the band and finish with the collar, Where to start for
    the second row and…..of the right and lert front?

    • October 17, 2014 2:41 pm

      Hi Sam

      I’m not sure I understand your question, to work the second row of the shawl collar / button band you will turn your work and follow the pattern for the second row.

  47. Mary Winegar permalink
    September 23, 2014 10:10 pm

    A couple of questions. This is for the Gramps sweater. For the w&t, the instructions say to work to 3 stitches before the gap and then w&t. So for each row do you w&t on the same stitch (the 3rd stitch from gap) because that doesn’t seem to change. You don’t really have a tutorial picture of that. You have HOW to do the stitch but not where it comes for each row.

    Also, when do you work the button band? While you are doing the shawl collar or after? No real clear instructions on that either.

    I love the sweater though. It’s going to be really cute when done. Thanks, Mary

    • September 25, 2014 3:07 pm

      The ‘Gap’ will change each row. It occurs after the wrapped stitch (so another way to think about is knitting to 2 sts before the wrapped stitch)

      • Mary Winegar permalink
        October 6, 2014 9:34 am

        Thank you

  48. August 9, 2014 11:49 am

    Hi enjoying my Gramps so far but a bit confused – I’ve picked up sts for button band &shawl collar, done the st up row (ws) , the next row called ribbing (RS) but it then goes to set up row A for the collar (also labelled RS) . How can a RS follow a RS ? Have I missed something?

  49. March 28, 2014 3:20 am

    Help! I’m on the shawl of the Gramps sweater. Each time I knit or purl to 2, 6, 10, etc. before last marker… goes this become the “new” marker spot or do I keep with the original marker? Thanks!

    • March 28, 2014 5:26 pm

      Keep the same marker! You will be moving further and further away from it.

      • March 29, 2014 5:48 am

        many thanks! lost a bit of sleep over it, but I was doing it right! Appreciate your reply so much!

  50. Kristi permalink
    February 11, 2014 6:56 am

    This tutorial has been very helpful, but now I am having a brain freeze. Approximately, how many stiches should be part of the short row patterns. Should it be fhe full yolk or where we picked up the provisional cast on stiiches?

    • February 11, 2014 8:31 pm

      Short rows are worked approximately between the neck edge increases (a few stitches over actually)

  51. Diane True permalink
    December 7, 2013 5:15 am

    Totally love your tutorial! Any thoughts on how you would add a shawl collar to an adult cardigan?? I realize its the same premise … just trying to figure out how you know when to show the short rows… Thanks so much! Your an angel for these tutorials!

    • December 11, 2013 5:15 pm

      Sometime relatively soon (in the next 6 months) we will be releasing a revised version of gramps… the pattern will be sized from baby all the way to adult 4XL (like our other patterns!). So you can find out all the details soon!

      • Andrea permalink
        December 11, 2013 5:20 pm

        That’s amazing!!! Since knitting the gramps sweater for my nephew I have gad two requests for “grown up” ones!! :)

      • iloveshoes permalink
        March 16, 2015 1:07 pm

        Great. This answered the question I just asked.

  52. Barb Steere permalink
    December 5, 2013 2:27 pm

    I am knitting a top down raglan sleeve cardigan sweater with a shawl collar. I’ve picked up all the stitches needed for the buttonband & shawl collar. I’m wondering if i need to knit both the buttonband & the collar until I have the correct width for the buttonband & then begin the short row shaping for the collar??? Can you help me???

    • December 11, 2013 5:16 pm

      What pattern are you knitting? I can’t say how it’s done unless I have the pattern in front of me.

  53. Andrea permalink
    October 28, 2013 6:57 pm

    Hi there. When I knit my wrapped stitches, I ended up with some little bumps showing up on the shawl part….and only on the right side on the front….have I made a mistake or is this normal? I tried looking at other pictures of the sweater and think I see them on others but its hard to be sure. If anyone can help/advise, it would be greatly appreciated. Wondering whether to rip back right now……

    • Cindy permalink
      February 13, 2014 11:05 am

      Hi Andrea, I had this same issue and you’re the only one I’ve seen mention it. Thank you for helping me not think I’m hyper picky! I also noticed this on other pictures of the sweater. Were you able to correct it? Any help would be very appreciated. Thank you! Cindy

  54. Valerie Coyle permalink
    September 13, 2013 8:57 am

    thank you so very much for taking the time to post this tutorial. After 20 years of leaving the knitting in a bag, I have picked up my old needles , actually I have replaced them with some circular and double-pointed needles. I did a lot of knitting in the early nineties and things have changed . If it hadn’t been for this website I think I would have thrown the “Gramps” sweater in the closet. Instead, I was able to learn some new techniques and will begin the short rows today. Can’t thank you enough for the help!!

    • September 13, 2013 3:02 pm

      Hi Valerie – really glad you found it helpful, and great to hear you didn’t have to throw the project in the closet! After completing Gramps you will have learned most of the techniques you need to knit most seamless sweater patterns! Congrats! ~ Emily

  55. annie permalink
    May 11, 2013 9:20 am

    thanks for a detailed article with pictures

  56. Erin permalink
    April 5, 2013 10:31 pm

    Why are the right hand collar stitches picked up from the inside but all the rest are picked up from the outside?

    • April 5, 2013 10:34 pm

      Hi Erin

      The right and left hand collar stitches are picked up from the inside because of the way the collar folds over. The idea is to hide your seams as much as possible.

      • January 10, 2016 1:53 pm

        Does the pattern book have instructions for this or is this an intermediate knitter should know? I missed this point so will follow the advice of a seasoned knitter,” reworking is really just more knitting”

      • January 12, 2016 12:55 pm

        Hi Marilyn – the pattern is in the book 9 Months of Knitting, this is just a supplement to help those who are new to some of those techniques

  57. disha permalink
    September 13, 2012 6:21 am

    thank u soo much for the article and detailed explanation its very helpful thank you

  58. The Modern Home Economist permalink
    April 5, 2012 12:30 am

    Such an adorable cardigan. Thank you so much for the detailed tutorial!


  1. Sweater Techniques Series – Gramps Baby Cardigan – 6 / 6 : Finishing Touches | Tin Can Knits
  2. Sweater Techniques Series – Gramps Baby Cardigan – 4 / 6 : Top-Down Sweater Construction – Body and Arms | Tin Can Knits
  3. Sweater Techniques Series – Gramps Baby Cardigan – 3 / 6 : Top-Down Sweater Construction | Tin Can Knits
  4. Sweater Techniques Series – Gramps Baby Cardigan – 2 / 6 : Beginning a Knitting Project | Tin Can Knits

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