There is something knitters find strangely intimidating about socks. I suspect it’s the heel turn. It seems a bit like magic; some decreases, some short rows, and boom: your heel fits perfectly in an item that is otherwise a tube. We assure you it’s as simple as 1, 2, 3! Heel Flap, Heel Turn, and Gusset! This tutorial covers our free Rye sock pattern. Get the FREE Rye sock pattern for worsted, DK, or sock weight yarn here.
This pattern is EVEN BETTER in the Tin Can Knits app!
- see only the instructions you need
- tick through the pattern and make notes
- support is just a tap away
- adjust the settings to suit you!
6 steps to knitting a sock
Knitting Rye in worsted, DK, or sock?
The Rye sock pattern has gotten an update! It now comes in 3 yarn weights, worsted/aran, DK, and sock! This tutorial includes all of the techniques to knit these socks in any of these yarn weights.
Which yarn weight is right for you?
The first thing you’ll decide is what yarn to use. Since the pattern is written for three yarn-weights, you’ll have a wide variety of options! A worsted or aran weight sock knits up quickly and your socks will be thick, warm, and cozy. Sock or DK weight yarn are the best choices for everyday socks. They are lighter and a bit more versatile, but it takes many more stitches per square inch – and thus they are a slower knit.
Materials
To get started you will need:
- The pattern: Download a copy of the Rye pattern PDF, or get it in the app (they’re free!)
- Yarn: You can knit these socks in worsted, DK, or sock weight yarn. Check your PDF or the app to see how much yardage you’ll require for your size.
- Needles: For a top-down sock you will need two sets of needles. You will need smaller needles for the ribbing and larger needles for the rest. For socks you can use either a tiny circular needle, double pointed needles (DPNs) or a long circular and the magic loop method.
If following a multi-size pattern is new to you, check out our tutorial on reading a knitting pattern here.
Which needles?
Socks are essentially a small diameter tube, so they can be worked a variety of ways. Some knitters use tiny 8″ circular needles or two circular needles to knit socks. The two most popular ways are DPNs or a long circular needle for the magic loop method.
Choose your size and skip the swatch…trust us!
For over a decade, we’ve been sizing our knitting patterns inclusively, from baby to big. That means our Rye sock pattern has a size to suit anyone you want to knit for! We’ve included seven sizes: Newborn (Baby, Toddler, Child, Adult S, M, L), and given a finished measurement for the sock. You want your sock to have a little negative ease (that means the sock will have to stretch a little to fit the foot. Pick the foot size closest to yours (or your little one’s), and that’s the set of instructions you’ll follow throughout the pattern.
Swatching and Gauge
The first step for your sock is a gauge swatch. The nice thing about knitting a sock from the top down is that you don’t really need to work a separate swatch. Just get going and once you’ve got a few inches, measure your gauge. If it’s not right, time to rip back and try larger or smaller needles as needed. Check out our tutorial on gauge and swatching here.
Construction
The Rye sock pattern is knit from the cuff to the toe in the following order:
- Cast on at the cuff and work the ribbing
- The leg is worked in the round
- The heel flap is worked in rows
- The heel turn is worked in rows
- The gusset is picked up
- The food is worked in the round
- The toe decreases are worked in the round
- The last few live stitches at the toe are grafted together.
Cast on
The first step to these socks is casting on and working the ribbing. You can choose to work your socks with either DPNs or with the Magic Loop Method…or try both and see which one is right for you!
The key to casting on for socks is casting on LOOOOOOSELY… Remember, the sock has to not only fit over the toe and circumference of the foot itself, but it also has to stretch to fit around the widest part, where your heel is all chunky. It can be stretched to the max to fit over this point, but it must GO… or the sock will not be a sock (for you).
Depending on your needle choice you will either cast onto double pointed needles (DPN’s) OR cast on to a long circular needle for magic loop. This tutorial is illustrated using DPNs.
Distributing those stitches
For DPNs, I like to put about 1/2 of my stitches on the first needle, about 1/4 of the stitches on the second needle, and 1/4 of the stitches on the third needle. Then I use my fourth needle to work the stitches. This way I know that the beginning of round (BOR) is located at the start of the ‘full’ needle, and I don’t have to place any markers.
For magic loop, I divide my stitches about in half and use the tail as an indicator of where the BOR is in relation to my stitches. This way I don’t have to use a marker.
Time to get ribbing
Next you’ll work that ribbing! It’s just [k1, p1] until you’ve got enough. We’ve given instructions for a length of ribbing in the pattern…but Elizabeth Zimmerman famously said: the correct amount of ribbing is as long as you can stand it!
Once your ribbing is complete you can switch to the larger needles.
Now you’re going to establish that garter panel at the top of the foot. Working the set up round you’ll have knit stitches, purl stitches, and more knit stitches. To create garter stitch in the round you alternate between knitting and purling, so the 2 round pattern looks like this:
Round 1: knit
Round 2: knit to the garter panel, purl the garter panel, knit the rest of the stitches
This establishes the garter stitch panel that runs down the middle front of the sock. When you are working back and forth garter stitch is created by knitting every row, BUT when you are working in the round it is created by knitting one round and purling the next. So your sock will look like mine, pictured below: a panel of garter stitch surrounded by stockinette stitch. You can learn more about basic stitch patterns here.
Work rounds 1-2 until the sock reaches the stated measurement in the pattern, or the length you want to the top of the heel flap. You’re going to end with a round 2, a round where you purl the garter panel.
Tip: If you are having trouble remembering where the garter panel goes (or you just want things to be a little more fool-proof) you may want to place a marker on either side of the panel.
Adjustment option: If you like a short ankle sock or a longer cuff this is where you would adjust the pattern, making it shorter or longer.
Heel flap
Time to start the heel turn! The first step is the heel flap, which is worked back and forth in rows.
To set up for working the heel you’ll knit half of your stitches (this half has the garter panel for the top of the foot), then ignore those stitches for the rest of the heel flap. You can do this by placing them on waste yarn, or (like I do), just ignore them.
I put half of my stitches on one double pointed needle (DPN) and then work the heel flap with my other 2 DPNs. If you are using magic loop you can place the stitches that are on hold on the cord and work back and forth on the heel flap stitches. The heel flap is worked over the other half of the stitches.
To work the heel flap you are working back in forth in rows, slipping the first stitch of each row. Why are we doing that? You’ll see later! When we go to pick up for the gusset we’ll have a lovely row of slipped stitches to pick up from.
If slipping stitches is new to you check out our slipped stitch tutorial here. For the Rye pattern all stitches are slipped purlwise unless otherwise noted.
You will now be turning your work after each row (instead of continuing in the round).
Heel turn
This is the part of the socks that scares people but stay calm, take a deep breath, turn off the TV or send the kids out of the room!
The heel is shaped using short rows: this means that you will turn your work in the middle of a row without knitting all of the stitches. Fear not, we know you haven’t worked all the stitches and it’s okay. Where it says ‘turn work’ you turn from RS of the work facing you to the WS of the work facing you, in preparation to work back in the other direction.
Now we are all set up. You should see 2 gaps in your work. They will occur where we turned our work. They look like this:
Row 3: slip 1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work
Row 4: slip 1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work
Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked.
Knit across the heel stitches.
Heel accomplished! It will look like this:
See, that wasn’t so scary was it?
Gusset
Now you have kind of a funny looking thing. It’s a tube with a flap and a little triangle, not really like a sock at all yet. But it’s time to join it all back together into a tube. To do this we will pick up and knit stitches along the sides of the heel flap (remember all those slipped stitches?).
Are you enjoying this tutorial? Sign up for our email updates to find out when the newest tutorials are released!
How to pick up and knit stitches
To pick up and knit stitches you need the right side (RS) of your work facing you, that’s the knit side.
- Insert your needle into the stitch (from RS to WS)
- Loop the yarn around your needle (at the back of work)
- Pull the loop through to the RS (using the needle tip, as though you were knitting a stitch)
Now you will have a stitch on your right hand needle. You have picked up a stitch!
Once you have picked up and knit stitches along the heel flap you work across the top of the foot, maintaining the garter panel as established and knitting all the other stitches.
If you are working on a long circular needle with the magic loop technique, you will need to place a marker after the picked up stitches. If you are working on DPNs, work the top of the foot on a separate needle, instead of a marker, you’ll have the gap between needles.
Once you have worked across the top of the foot you will need to place a marker if you are on circulars and if you are using double points you will pick up down the other side of the heel flap using another needle.
Next you will knit to the centre of the heel stitches. If you are working with circulars you will place a marker here to indicate the beginning of the round. If you are working with double pointed needles, knit these stitches with the same needle you picked up the second half of the heel with, so that the end of that needle means the end of the round.
Round 1: knit
Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, work in pattern across top of foot to marker, k1, ssk, knit to end
Double Pointed Needle tip: if you are working on double pointed needles there won’t be any markers (except maybe ones you have marking the garter panel), so when it says ‘knit to 3 sts before marker’ you will be knitting to 3 sts before the end of the needle. When it says ‘work in pattern across top of foot to marker’ you will be working to the end of the second needle. The end of the third needle marks the end of the round.
Once you’ve completed this section, you will have decreased the additional stitches picked up for the ‘gusset’ triangle at the side of the foot and you will be back to the same stitch count as at cast-on.
To shift beginning of round (BOR) remove marker, knit to the next marker, slip marker – this is the new BOR, located at the side of the foot. Keep the second marker after the instep stitches in place.
If you’re working on DPNS, this means that you’ll simply shift the beginning-of-round point the end of what was your second needle.
The beginning of round (BOR) is now located at the side of the foot.
Foot
Continue working in the round, keeping the top of foot in pattern until your piece measures the desired number of inches from back of heel.
The foot is simple as can be! You can work around and around, maintaining the garter panel at the top of the foot and knitting all other stitches. You can also try on the socks at this point to see how long they should be.
Toe
Lost your markers? Not to worry. To set-up for to work the toe you’ll want your stitches to be divided in half. Half of the stitches will be at the top of the foot, with the garter panel in the middle, and half of the stitches will be at the bottom of the foot.
There are 4 decrease points for the toe, two on each side of the foot. The markers in the work above are around the garter panel, they are not at the decrease points.
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 (4 sts decreased)
Round 2: knit
First you’ll work these two rounds, then you’ll work only round 1, the decrease round, until you have the right number of stitches.
Grafting the toe closed
You’ll have two sets of live stitches on your needles, and you’ll have to close up that toe. For socks you don’t want any bumply seams here, so these stitches will be seamlessly grafted together. Grafting feels like another bit of magic, so check out our grafting tutorial (including a video!) here.
Once you have grafted the toe, the socks are finished! Weave in your ends inside the sock, and then wear with pleasure! I don’t personally find blocking necessary for socks, as they are snug and conform to the contours of your feet, but if you’re feeling fancy you can bust out some sock blockers. Congratulations – you have just finished your first sock!
More great socks from Tin Can Knits
Little Squirrel
Acorn
Torrent
Winding Way
Sea Wall
Granola
New tutorials, right to your inbox!
We’ll write you a note a couple times a month to share our new knitting tutorials, patterns and stories!
November 4, 2021 @ 2:09 pm
First time knitting socks. Rye pattern is very well written and easy to follow. I’m happy with the result. Thank you Tin Can Knits for all your useful tutorials!
April 25, 2021 @ 10:43 am
First time making socks and I’m exited to use your pattern so thank you in advance! I was wondering what size to do; I am a women’s size 10 shoe and my feet are roughly 9.5 inches long. I was thinking medium, would you agree? Thank you!
April 26, 2021 @ 1:51 am
Medium will probably work for you! If they aren’t long enough, after you work the toe, simply rip back and knit an extra half-inch (or inch) of length in the foot, then re-work the toe (and you’ll know to adjust the knit-to length for the other sock). Enjoy! ~ Em
April 26, 2021 @ 5:56 pm
Thank you!!
March 29, 2021 @ 8:10 pm
Hi..I’m a first time sock knitter and seem to be really confused about the toe section as I only have one marker at the beginning of the round. I am not sure where to place the second marker. I did not see anything in the pattern for placement of a second marker. I have 40 stitches in total for the adult small. Where should the second marker be placed. i read previous posts but am still a little confused.
Thanks
April 4, 2021 @ 10:41 pm
Hi Sharon – in the gusset & foot section, first paragraph, you locate 2 markers. PM means ‘place marker’. To begin, one is located at the side of the foot, and the BOR marker is located right at the back of the heel. Then further through that section (after the decreases are complete) you move the BOR marker, so now both the BOR and the other marker are each located at the sides of the foot. So your markers should be at either side of the foot, and for the 40-stitch size one will be at the beginning, the next will be 20 sts later.
March 29, 2021 @ 1:05 pm
Any recommendations on how to get the correct size for sock knitting? I’ve read knitted socks should have 1” of negative ease. I’ve knit (one of) these socks twice now, going down an size and a needle size, and they still don’t seem snug enough (admittedly, my first attempt was huge!). These are my first ever attempt at sock knitting.
March 29, 2021 @ 1:12 pm
Hi! I would recommend 1″ in the smaller sizes, but a little more for the grown up sizes, 1.5″ to 2″
March 24, 2021 @ 9:15 am
Hello,
For the heel turn it says: Row 2 (WS): sl1, p1 (3, 5, 7, 5, 7), p2tog, p1, turn work. Is the (5,7,5,7) supposed to be (5,5,7,7) or (5,7,7,7)? It just doesn’t seem to make sense with the rest of the numbers. Thanks!
March 25, 2021 @ 12:33 pm
Hi Gina – Don’t worry, the pattern is correct!
February 21, 2021 @ 6:18 am
I have 36 stitches. 18 of them are the RYE pattern on the front DPN with the 3 knitted stitch on both sides . The side needles have 3 stitches and the back fourth needle has 12. How should I rearrange my stitches so I can finish the TOE decrease. I didn’t use a marker. Thank you for your help. (Not sure my original comment went through- sorry if it’s a repeat).
February 22, 2021 @ 12:45 pm
Hi – If you have 36 sts you should have 18 at the top of your foot and 18 at the bottom. The garter panel will be in the middle of the top of the foot.
February 17, 2021 @ 1:24 am
First time sock knitter here! Thank you very much for this pattern-I’m really enjoying it and learning as I go! I’m making the Rye Light in an adult medium in width but an adult small in length, I’ve knitted 16 rows total of the heel flap but if I add anymore (especially the additional 12 rows the adult small requires) it is going to be way to long for my foot. What adjustments (if any) will I need to make in the heel turning/gusset process to account for shortening the heel flap by almost half?
February 19, 2021 @ 11:31 am
Hi Geneva – half seems like a lot, are you sure you want to shorten it by that much? The gusset would be pretty small then. You would pick up 1 stitch in the gusset for every 2 rows, then decrease them as stated in the pattern.
February 7, 2021 @ 7:30 am
I’m knitting the Rye Light. I’m a bit confused about the marker placement for the gusset. Should they be on either side at the beginning of the garter pattern, or should they be placed at a certain number of stitches prior to the garter pattern?
February 7, 2021 @ 10:47 pm
The gusset decrease markers are placed a few stitches either side of the garter pattern, depending on your size. They sit either side of the front half of the cast-on stitches, and the garter panel is centred within those stitches.
February 7, 2021 @ 10:53 pm
Another note, to clarify – the pattern text doesn’t include marker placement either side of the garter panel, as shown in the photos above. Placing markers either side of the garter panel is simply a convenience we suggest for some knitters who find it helps. The decrease points, when working on DPNs, are located at the ends of the needles (where you cannot place markers, because they’ll fall off).
January 26, 2021 @ 1:11 pm
I am knitting the rye light socks. My sock size is adult small. I am beginning the gusset & foot stage. The pattern says to pick up 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap which does not make sense to me since I knitted 28 rows of heel flap. Why wouldn’t I be picking up 28 stitches? Confused?
January 26, 2021 @ 9:55 pm
Hi Susan – You will be picking up approximately 1 stitch for every 2 rows. Not 1 stitch in each row.
February 17, 2021 @ 7:50 am
As in your heelflap you do not knit the first stitch you have exactly the number of stitches to picking up the stitches. you add 1 more stitch at the end (or at the beginnig of the second side) so not to have a hole. as i usually knit my socks with 4ply wool on a 2,50 dpn i knit always 30 rows for the heel flap and picking therefore 16 stitches each side.
January 23, 2021 @ 10:25 am
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, ((is this BOR marker or garter panel marker)) k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 (4 sts decreased)
Thank you!
January 24, 2021 @ 10:29 pm
The garter panel markers are not actually used in the pattern; you can remove them if you’ve been using them during the rest of the knit, as you don’t need them at the toe. At this point you should have just two markers – BOR and one at the half-way point on the other side of the sock – that separate the stitches into two halves which are the top of foot, and bottom of foot. You decrease either side of each of these markers. Hope this helps! Emily
November 21, 2020 @ 7:26 am
My husband wants me to knit him this pattern. I am an experienced sock knitter, but I just follow patterns. I usually go up a needles size or add cast on stiches for my size 14 husband. I am married to big foot. I am not good at figuring out how to adjust a pattern for size not listed. His cuff, where it would hit on his leg would need to be a circumference of 11.75 inches. His leg 10.5 inches and his ankle 10.5 inches., His foot length is 12.5 inches. Could you please give me what you would recommend for the number of cast on stitches and the adjustment for the leg pattern? This is my first Tin Can Knit sock pattern. I have really enjoyed your other patterns. Your company is a go to for me as your patterns are well written and also lovely patterns. Thank you. Jessica Myers
November 23, 2020 @ 1:42 am
Hi Jessica – To add 2-2.5″ of circumference to the pattern for Rye, you’d probably want to go up to a 64-68 st cast-on. If you are working Rye Light it’d be an 86-90 st cast-on or so. However, you’ll have to adjust the heel turn and gusset too when you get there – so you might do best to follow those instructions in another pattern that has the stitch count you’re looking for. Hope this helps! ~ Em
November 23, 2020 @ 3:00 am
Thank you for your reply. How would I adjust the pattern for the leg? That’s what my husband likes.
November 23, 2020 @ 1:35 pm
Hi Jessica – Sorry, not sure what you mean? Casting on more sts would adjust the pattern for the leg (they are knit from the cuff down)
November 24, 2020 @ 12:45 pm
After the cuff, round 1 says 2(3,3,4,5,5) pearl 10 (12,12,12,14) to end. If I am increasing the cast on, how do I adjust the amounts of knits and pearls? For my husband, I have found the best fitting sock for him with fingering weight is to cast on 64 stitches with a US size 3 needle. I do not use a smaller needle for the cuff. Thank you.
November 24, 2020 @ 12:49 pm
Hi Jessica – You will want to use our Rye Light pattern, it is written for fingering weight yarn
November 27, 2020 @ 3:28 am
I am using worsted weight yarn. That’s why I need the adjustment for my husband’s large foot. But I was able to go to my local yarn shop owner and she was able to make the adjustments for me. Thank you for your time.
November 27, 2020 @ 10:32 am
Hi Jessica – Sorry I’m a bit confused. Your husband prefers when you cast on 64 sts in fingering weight for his sock size, but you are using worsted weight? Is that correct? If you knit the large size of the Rye socks (which are designed in worsted weight) that would make the sock the right size for your husband.
November 17, 2020 @ 7:46 am
Hi first time sock knitter here. I have found this pattern really easy to follow until I come to do the gusset, I have picked up the slipped stitches on one side of the heel flap but I’m struggling with how to proceed from there and have hit a bit of a wall! The pictures on the page don’t seem to match up with what I have at this stage.
How do I pick up the stitches on the other side of the heel flap? Do I knit across the front of the foot and then pick up the other side?
I am using magic loop technique
Acne appreciated
November 17, 2020 @ 7:47 am
*guidance! Not acne!
November 17, 2020 @ 2:01 pm
Hi Chloe – Here is the instruction from the pattern:
Pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along the edge of heel flap, PM,
work in pattern across top of foot, working the garter panel as established, PM,
pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along heel flap, k4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts,
place new BOR marker (located at the
bottom of the foot). [38 (44, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts]
November 9, 2020 @ 2:41 pm
Sizing question – I have a bigger calf – what is the approximate circumferance of the socks for the adult size range?
November 10, 2020 @ 1:40 pm
Hi Barbara – There is a cuff measurement listed but the finished cuff measurement is: 5 (5.8, 6.5, 7.3, 8, 8.7)” – you would want a little bit of negative ease for socks
September 26, 2020 @ 8:04 pm
Hi, I’m trying to learn how to knit the rye sock, iv embroidered but never knit before. The ladies at ToadHollow recommended this sight and pattern, I’m using their The Dwarves in dk yarn. My question is how do I stitch the gage swatch,I started stitching and suddenly realized it says rounds not rows so I figure it stitched in the round somehow? Is there a tutorial you have/know of for how to do this, I’m a visual learner, so a pictorial or video example would be very helpful. Hope you all are doing well, any info or advice would be greatly appreciated!
September 27, 2020 @ 1:55 am
Hello! I’d suggest you just cast on, and after you’ve worked 3″, you can measure your gauge, and see if it’s suitable :)
September 28, 2020 @ 12:36 pm
Thanks!
September 28, 2020 @ 1:31 pm
So,if I’m counting right, what I have so far is 12stitchs and 15rows per 2inches, so I think the rows is about right but the stitch is a little off. What would you recommend? Is that close enough to not matter or do I need to change anything, like go up a needle size?
September 29, 2020 @ 12:00 pm
Hi – For the Rye socks you want a gauge of 5.5 sts per inch. You have 6 sts per inch, so if you try it on and it seems to fit fine I’d say go for it. If it seems too tight change to a larger needle.
September 10, 2020 @ 6:30 am
Great little sock tutorial! I’m an addicted sock knitter and appreciate seeing such a clear, well put together pattern to take the “scare” out of sock knitting. Now many more people can become addicts too. Hint= little people socks are a super way to use all our scrap yarn 😉
July 12, 2020 @ 5:46 pm
Hello,
I’m going to make my first pair of socks using the Rye pattern. I can’t figure out which size I should go with. I usually wear a size 9.5 women’s shoe, US size. My foot measures 10″ long when I’m standing. My feet are an average width with a narrow heel. I’m 5’4″ and 115 lbs, so on the thin side overall, meaning, ankles and calves are not large, despite the long feet. If you need any other foot measurements, let me know. I was going to give you a calf circumference, but didn’t know where to measure it. Thanks for any help you can give me!
July 12, 2020 @ 10:36 pm
Hello! I’d suggest you try the Adult S, and as you’re knitting, check how much length to the foot section before decreasing for the toe. You can try on socks while you’re knitting them; it’s easiest when working with the Magic Loop method and a single long circular, but it’s possible with DPNs too. You can try the cuff on over your foot, and that will give you a sense of whether the tube size is right.
July 12, 2020 @ 11:51 pm
Thank you! That’s very helpful! It just occurred to me I should also ask about the yarn I was planning to use – it’s Hikoo CoBaSi DK. It’s 55% cotton, 21% elastic nylon, 16% bamboo, and 8% silk. I’ve read it works well for socks. Hope so! I get gauge for the pattern on size 6 needles. Given that I’m planning to use a different fiber content than the pattern suggests, would that change the size I choose, or should I still go with Adult S? Would there be anything I might need to change or be aware of given that I’m planning to use a cotton/nylon blend?
July 14, 2020 @ 11:39 am
Hi Jaya – I’m sorry, I don’t have enough experience with that fiber to offer any helpful guidance. I would knit a few inches of the cuff and try it on, make sure it’s fitting snug enough.
September 20, 2020 @ 7:55 am
Thank you for your help with sizing. The Adult S was perfect! This was my first pair of socks, and they came out great, but I couldn’t have done it without your excellent tutorials! I used this one and the one on the Kitchener Stitch. The socks were very fun to knit, and I’m pleased with the result. Thanks for a great pattern and such clear tutorials!
June 20, 2020 @ 8:43 pm
Hi! I’m just looking at the Rye Light pattern for my first socks. I see the finished measurements, but not sure how to choose. My leg is about 11″ where the cuff will hit. How much negative ease should I account for? My yarn has some nylon in it.
June 22, 2020 @ 12:19 pm
Hi Danielle – I would go with the medium, my calf is also 11″ where the cuff hits and I am a medium. You might want to cast on, do the ribbing, then put it on waste yarn and try it on. That way you will know exactly how it will fit at the calf before you knit a whole sock.
April 30, 2020 @ 2:44 pm
Hi, I’ve been working on this sock pattern from the downloaded pattern, and am now at the heel turn section. I just realized when looking at the tutorial on the website, how much larger the downloaded pattern instructs you to make the sock. There are many more stiches in most steps in the downloaded pattern, making it much larger. Why?
April 30, 2020 @ 3:05 pm
I just realized the reason for the discrepancy, I was use the Ryelight pattern. I’ve been using a sport weight yarn so I guess I will end up with an awkwardly slightly too large sock.
April 15, 2020 @ 8:09 am
Your tutorial photos are helpful, but the number of stitches in this tutorial do not align with the Rye Light pattern. Is this the other Rye pattern?
April 16, 2020 @ 11:34 am
Hi Arleen – Yep, the techniques are all the same but the numbers are from the Rye pattern, not Rye Light
April 14, 2020 @ 1:22 pm
At the end of the heel flap, the instructions say to knit across… Should the first stitch be slipped as in the previous rounds or actually knit that first stitch?
April 14, 2020 @ 1:25 pm
Hi Jennifer – I usually knit it, but I don’t think anything bad will happen to your sock if you slip it.
April 13, 2020 @ 5:57 pm
I am to the toe on my first sock and I have a question. I am using dpns so I don’t have markers. Where should they be so I can do my decreases accurately?
April 14, 2020 @ 11:00 am
Hi Janet – the markers should be at the sides of the foot and the garter panel should be in the middle of the top of the foot.
April 16, 2020 @ 3:30 pm
Thank you so much! I was just having a blank brain day. I have now finished one sock and am on the second!
April 13, 2020 @ 4:25 am
Hello dear Alexa and Emily! Huge fan of your work here. I am knitting the rye light socks. I am not a natural sock knitter. My stitch markers have been having some kind of party and I’m sure they are in the wrong places for the toe decreases. Any helpful tips? I’m stuck! Sorry if it’s in the pattern and I’m not seeing it. I’m knitting the largest size.
Off to cast on a strange brew to cheer me up!
April 14, 2020 @ 10:59 am
Hi Anne – You want you markers at the sides of the foot and the garter panel in the middle of the top of the foot. That should get you oriented!
Branch Out! | Tin Can Knits
April 2, 2020 @ 2:00 am
[…] this fear may seem silly to the initiated, it can be a real barrier to those who have not yet turned a heel or worked a button band. We challenge you to step outside your comfort zone and tackle a new […]
#TCKnewtricksKAL complete! | Tin Can Knits
April 1, 2020 @ 6:22 am
[…] effective… check out our tutorial here). And many others tried steeking for the first time. Socks were a popular new technique, some people knit them for the first time, and others learned methods […]
Year of the Monkey: learn to knit socks! | Tin Can Knits
March 31, 2020 @ 11:19 pm
[…] Let’s Knit Socks is our complete step-by-step tutorial that will guide you through all the techniques, from casting on and establishing the pattern, to turning a heel, picking up stitches for the gusset, and grafting the toe using Kitchener Stitch. After you’re comfortable (and have some cozy bed socks), you can forge forward to some more complex sock patterns! […]
March 14, 2020 @ 4:07 pm
How do you knit for the other foot? I have already made one for the left foot but the right sock won’t decrease correctly with the same pattern.
March 18, 2020 @ 9:08 pm
Hi Nicole – The decreases are symmetrical so both feet are the same!
February 19, 2020 @ 5:44 am
Great tutorial!! Thanks…
February 7, 2020 @ 2:16 pm
Thanks so much 🎂
Knitting progress – aghisla draws
January 25, 2020 @ 11:15 am
[…] Rye socks – my second pair, got a bit faster, and more regular in the double-pointed needles knitting My second Flax pullover made with sock wool, it’s really comfy and easy to wash My first cable project: a baby blanket, the pattern is Bairn from Julie Hoover […]
December 25, 2019 @ 11:15 am
Thanks for your detailed and photos instruction.
I will read through one – 2 more time, then start knitting my first socks….
November 21, 2019 @ 10:32 am
You are my hero for this post. Thank you so much!
November 14, 2019 @ 5:18 pm
How do you get 50 stitches for the gusset and foot? I thought it should be 10+10+12=32 stitches. I am knitting the child size
November 19, 2019 @ 8:49 pm
Hi Cassie – I think your math is missing the top of the foot
Baby To Big | Tin Can Knits
November 7, 2019 @ 6:20 am
[…] Rye Socks are a free pattern, and you can learn to knit socks following our tutorial! Start with a kid size and you will bind of your first sock in no […]
October 22, 2019 @ 6:46 pm
When we pick up and knit stitches on the sides of the heel flap, it was not clear to me how many stitches I was supposed to pick up.
October 23, 2019 @ 9:46 am
Hi Delia – it depends which size you are kitting, but it does specify in the pattern
September 6, 2019 @ 11:43 pm
Hi! Beginning-intermediate knitter here. I’m really confused about the gusset & foot instructions. For Round 1, it says to knit (all around). But don’t you have to maintain the garter panel as established? In that case, I thought you’d have to PURL the garter section in this round, seeing that you last purled in Round 1 of the cuff, and later knit across the garter after you picked up your first 9 stitches along the heel flap.
I feel I am missing something obvious but can’t figure it out!
September 10, 2019 @ 2:07 pm
Hi Sarah – you do indeed want to keep that garter panel intact. The cuff ends with a purl, the heel flap set up is a knit in the garter panel, then the first round of the gusset and foot section has you purl across the garter panel (work in pattern across top of foot, keeping the garter panel intact), so Round 1 is a knit, round 2 is ‘work in pattern’ which means you are going to purl the top of the foot. Does that help?
September 3, 2019 @ 2:16 pm
The pattern I have is telling me to move my marker. Is the beginning of my toe on the back side of the sock? I looked at your tutorial and you say nothing about markers except that they are between the garder stitch. I am a little confused. I can see where you say I am to decrease please help. Don’t want to mess up my socks. Very pleased with the pattern. I am using magic loop.
September 4, 2019 @ 12:52 pm
Hi Lynda – because I used DPNs for the tutorials I didn’t use markers, I just treated the ends of my needles as markers (since markers just slide off the end of the needles). The BOR for the socks is at the centre of the bottom of the sock during the foot part, but moves to the side of the foot for the toe decreases. You can divide the number of sts in 2 and the garter panel should be in the centre of the top of the foot, decrease markers will be at each side of the foot.
July 18, 2019 @ 4:27 pm
When knitting the Heel Flap where it says row 1: sl1 then knit and row 2: sl1 then purl – are you slipping those first 2 stitches knitwise or purlwise with the yarn in front or in back? Hope this question makes sense.
July 19, 2019 @ 10:14 am
Hi Toni – I slip those ones purlwise with yarn to the WS of the work
July 4, 2019 @ 7:06 pm
I have knitted plenty of socks! The toe decrease here is confusing
Needle 1(my start) 15 stitches
Needle 2 30 stitches where i have the parents stitches(top of the foot)
Needle 3 15 stitches
Where do I put marker for BOR so I can begin to decrease?
July 15, 2019 @ 9:42 pm
Hi Liz – your BOR marker should be at the side of the foot (at the start of needle 2)
June 9, 2019 @ 7:58 am
I’m not new to fiber arts but I am a fairly inexperienced knitter. I’ve embarked on my first sock using this pattern and I find it very easy to follow. I love this pictures that are associated with each step. This is very helpful. I am very close to finishing my first sock! I’ve noticed some errors I’ve made and I know exactly where I went wrong so I can improve on my next one. I was very afraid to begin a sock pattern but it really isn’t as hard as I thought it’s be! Thanks for this easy-to-follow, free pattern!
June 10, 2019 @ 1:39 am
Congratulations on taking on the challenge! I remember back when I made my first sock, and how much I believed it would be complicated and difficult! But you tackle each step (each stitch) one at a time, and soon discover it’s not so hard!
April 6, 2019 @ 4:33 pm
I had a horrible time following this pattern. It was very confusing in a lot of places. I’m off to find an easier pattern that explains things better. Really disappointed in this confusing pattern!
April 7, 2019 @ 7:58 pm
Hi Chris – If you have an specific feedback on where things could be clearer we would love to hear it.
March 21, 2019 @ 4:33 am
Hi-I am a fairly new knitter. I started with hats and have moved on to socks. I am currently knitting the Rye sock pattern. I used the size for 44 sts on my DPNs and am ready to switch to a larger size needle and move to Round 1 of the pattern. The way I am reading the pattern is that instead of K2, I will Knit 5, because that is what is in the parentheses for the size I chose. Then instead of P10, I will Purl 12 and then knit to end. Am I mis-interpreting what the pattern says? It doesn’t seem like the number of total stitches will add up to 44. Thank you in advance for any help you could give.
March 21, 2019 @ 10:40 am
Hi Michelle – You have it just right, you are going to k5, p12, knit to end.
March 10, 2019 @ 8:51 am
any patterns for plain vanilla toe up socks?
March 12, 2019 @ 7:00 pm
Hi Susie – sorry, no toe up as of yet.
March 10, 2019 @ 6:34 am
Thank you for this tutorial!!! It’s just what I needed.
February 27, 2019 @ 10:45 am
I’m confused about how to do this in magic loop once you get to the heel flap. Do I place all of the stitches on hold on a separate needle and just use the circulars to knit the other section back and forth? I guess I don’t understand how to stop knitting in magic loop and change over to knitting flat with a gap in the stitches. I’m probably just missing something.
February 27, 2019 @ 8:31 pm
Hi Emma – it helps if you put all of the heel sts on one needle and the rest of the sts on the other. Alternatively, if it’s giving you a lot of trouble the first time you are doing that section, you can put the non heel flap sts on a separate needle or a bit of waste yarn, just to keep it super clear.
February 20, 2019 @ 7:08 am
Excellent tutorial help resource.
February 9, 2019 @ 8:34 pm
Regarding the heal on the magic loop, do I go back and forth (knit and purl) as directed? — or was that assuming I’m on DPNS? I’m not clear if I should do all the 22 rows of the heal before going in the round again. Thanks for your help!
February 13, 2019 @ 4:50 pm
Hi Dave – yep, back and forth, whether you are using DPNs or Magic Loop it is the same.
February 15, 2019 @ 6:16 am
On cuff knit 2 purl 10 knit to end. So the remaining stitches on other two needles are to be knitted as well? Then round two is all knitted. Newbie here 😋
February 20, 2019 @ 12:42 pm
Hi Vickie – you may be a newbie but you have it just right!
February 5, 2019 @ 6:22 pm
I’m hoping to do two socks on the same circular needle. If I cast on separately, will I be able to finish the pattern as written, or will the second sock prevent me from knitting it according to your pattern? Thanks!
February 5, 2019 @ 6:24 pm
I should have added that I’m using magic loop (but I’m guessing you figured that out). Thanks!
February 6, 2019 @ 9:27 am
Hi Dave – I haven’t knit very many socks 2 at a time (only once!) but I can’t see any reason you can’t knit the Rye socks 2aat
February 28, 2019 @ 4:28 pm
Thank you so much for your help! Yes, I’m nearly to the toes and was able to successfully do 2aat. For my first pair of socks, I’d say they look pretty darn good. I greatly appreciate your patience and willingness to answer questions! :-)
Rye Light – Online rich life tips
January 3, 2019 @ 5:31 pm
[…] DPNs (or circular for magic loop) US #2 / 2.75mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop)Tutorial: The Rye tutorial works for this pattern as well, the numbers are different but all of the concepts are the […]
Rye Light | Tin Can Knits
January 1, 2019 @ 6:01 am
[…] DPNs (or circular for magic loop) US #2 / 2.75mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop)Tutorial: The Rye tutorial works for this pattern as well, the numbers are different but all of the concepts are the […]
Golden Light | Tin Can Knits
November 29, 2018 @ 6:11 am
[…] 11 Simple Collection patterns, specifically designed to help you learn the basics from cast-on to turning a heel, and knitting your first sweater. And we have dozens of other free patterns too, to get you started […]
October 28, 2018 @ 5:55 am
Greetings! Your pattern is very thorough and easy to understand. Thank you! My question pertains to the finished product. Will these socks be appropriate for my granddaughter to wear in snow boots and tennis shoes on cold MN school days? I am looking for a versatile sock pattern that she can wear all day at school. Again, thank you! Jane
October 29, 2018 @ 9:43 am
Hi Jane – it would depend a lot on the shoes. These are worsted weight socks so they might be a bit big for tennis shoes but probably appropriate for boots
July 25, 2018 @ 2:49 pm
Hi, I’m working this pattern, for the first time 2aat with magic loop, i have the garter stitches on my front needle and my heel stitches on the back needles, I’m a bit confused about how to change my BOR (which is currently sock 1 garter pattern) , where should my BOR be? Thanks for the lovely pattern.
July 7, 2018 @ 8:13 am
For the Heel Flap, when it says to K14, then place these sts on hold…do I put these stitches on scrap yarn? This is my first pair of socks, Im trying to understand before I start this project. Thank you!
July 7, 2018 @ 11:44 am
You can just leave them on the needles, you are just going to ignore them for a bit
March 18, 2018 @ 3:40 pm
Hi! I am knitting the mediums and am currently just knitting along the gussett until I get to the toe portion. I somehow have an extra stitch (45 instead of 44) and can’t figure out where it is….could you tell me how many stitches there should be between the markers? I’ve been trying to figure out where I need to get rid of my extra stitch and am getting very confused!
March 28, 2018 @ 4:05 pm
Hi- The sock should be split in half for the toe, so 22 on the top and 22 on the bottom
February 23, 2018 @ 11:12 am
Hello
Making size adult M
At the gusset & foot section
Supposed to pick up and knit 12 stitches along each side of heel flap
But…I only have 10 (slipped) stitches to pick up.
Thought I was supposed to work the flap for total of 20 rows which resulted in 10 end stitches to pick up.
Did I not knit enough rows on the heel flap?
Thanks
Jill
March 13, 2018 @ 11:00 am
Hi Jill – you should be able to pick up 12 sts from the edge, the short row heel give you another row to pick up in and you want to pick up a st from the row before the heel flap starts.
March 13, 2018 @ 11:28 am
Thank you.
That’s exactly what I did.
The socks look great !
Jill
February 16, 2018 @ 4:47 am
This may be a very stupid question BUT, I’m a sock first timer!
I have managed the rib successfully but to continue the knitting do you continue magic loop the whole time?
February 19, 2018 @ 1:16 pm
Hi Charlotte – sort of. You are going to work the heel back and forth in rows, but the rest is in the round, so you would keep going with magic loop
November 30, 2017 @ 1:56 pm
Thank you for the detailed pattern/instructions, and taking the time to answer questions! First socks and I’m really enjoying it so far, and I’m looking forward to trying more patterns from your site.
I’m a bit stumped on the gusset section (working on dpns). I understand about picking up the stitches along the first side of the heel, working in pattern along the top of the heel, and picking up stitches down the other side of the heel flap.
From there, you instruct to k7 (in my case). Would I be knitting 7 FROM the first needle of the heel flap, essentially adding 7 stitches on to the last needle that picked up stitches from the other side of the flap?
If that’s the case, then am I picking up an empty needle and starting Round 1 (K) from that half-emptied needle and working ’til…where? I guess I’m confused where the round ends from there.
November 30, 2017 @ 1:59 pm
…and by top of the heel I meant top of the foot.
November 30, 2017 @ 2:44 pm
Nevermind, I forgot about the 14 stitches on the heel flap….this is what I get for working ahead in my mind.
October 26, 2017 @ 11:59 am
I am just learning to do socks again, your diagrams and pictures help a lot! I,m learning to do Magic Loop this time and am enjoying it. I would like to place a backlink in my sock blog, so people can see how many ways there are to do socks.
October 4, 2017 @ 2:21 pm
Hi – I’m a very new knitter – your site is marvelous! Thank you – just wondering if there are any plans (or if you have already done it and I’ve missed the post) for working two socks at a time on circular needles. I like the idea of doing both together so (a) they are both the same size and (b) I will be sure to have two socks ;-)
October 4, 2017 @ 7:52 pm
Hi Rose – no plans currently but I will add it to the request list!
September 13, 2017 @ 9:05 pm
First timer here. So how do u know which size to knit?
September 15, 2017 @ 12:12 pm
Hi Carly – You will want to check your foot measurements against the measurements listed in the pattern.
June 7, 2017 @ 10:33 pm
Ok….so I have knit my first ever sock using this pattern, but, I have not kept the stitch markers in place (I took them off by mistake) and I have no idea of what I need to do for the toe!!!!
As I have to knit the second sock, should I just place my first sock on to a stitch holder and knit my second sock (making sure markers are in place at all times!!!!) and then work out where they should be on the first sock when I am up to the toe again on sock number 2!!!!
June 14, 2017 @ 11:46 am
Hi Kirsten – the garter panel is in the middle of the top of the foot. So if you divide your number of sts by 2 you can place your garter panel in the middle of those sts you will have it right.
May 14, 2017 @ 7:24 am
Toe Decrease – I am using double point needles to knit an Adult M and am at the toe decrease. It seems I lost the position of my marker while working on the gusset. How many stitches should I have between the garter pattern and the top of the foot on each side to do the decreases at the correct location? I cannot seem to find the right place to work the required decreases. Thank you.
May 16, 2017 @ 11:54 am
Hi Rachel – You want to count up your sts and divide by 2, 1/2 for the top of the foot and 1/2 for the bottom of the foot. The garter panel will be in the middle of the top of the foot
March 11, 2017 @ 9:11 am
Hi. I am an experienced knitter but new to socks and I’m having trouble understanding the heel turn. It seems the decreases don’t end up centered on the adult small socks and when I come back on row 3 there aren’t enough stitches left to do the ssk. What am I missing?
March 11, 2017 @ 9:48 am
Hi Laurie – I’m sorry, I’m really not sure. The socks have been knit a few thousand times so I know the heel turn works. Maybe if you drop us an email with exactly what you are doing we can help?
March 11, 2017 @ 5:48 pm
Duh – I figured it out. Sorry was just having trouble with the ssk. Wasn’t knighting together the slipped stitches. Did a google of ssk and figured it out. I’m mostly a cable sweater knitter – we don’t use that much in cables! Thanks for the quick reply.
Episode 108: And The Winners Are… | Down Cellar Studio
February 27, 2017 @ 5:04 pm
[…] you’re a new sock knitter you may want to check out the Tin Can Knits Rye Sock Pattern. Great resource for a knit sock knitter because it explains the […]
January 15, 2017 @ 11:31 pm
I am using 4 DP’s and putting on 40stitches, ignoring the bits about the garter stitch panel & the circular needle info. I am confused, as you leave something important out? You don’t say how many stitches to pick-up along the sides of the heel flap? One pattern I have, says knit 20 rows and then pick-up 20 stitches, but find that very difficult, another one says pick-up only HALF the amount of stitches, in relation to the rows knitted? What do I do, if using this pattern, please? Every beginners pattern I use, has a bit that I find difficult to understand? My worst part of basic sock making is this and then trying to arrange the stitches back correctly on the 3 needles? Hope you can help. Thanks so much.
January 16, 2017 @ 11:32 am
Hi Candy – I’m sorry, I’m not sure I understand the question. If you download the Rye pattern it has the details about working the heel flap, heel turn, and the gusset…..
January 17, 2017 @ 12:19 am
Sorry, maybe too much Info? I am referring to the above pattern called Let’s Knit Socks- go to the Gusset Section, about picking up stitches along both sides of the heel flap. It doesn’t say how many to pick up on each side? I have 40 stitches casted on, to begin the sock with, so I presume, that it is either 18 to pick-up each side or 9, being half the amount, of heel flap rows knitted? Just require the number, please?
January 17, 2017 @ 9:25 am
Hi Candy – this is just a tutorial, the pattern (Rye socks) has all the details on the exact numbers to pick up for the different sizes. It’s a free download here: http://tincanknits.com/pattern-SC-rye.html
January 14, 2017 @ 9:11 am
I am ready to begin to turn the heel on an adult small sock and want to be sure I am reading the directions in the parentheses correctly. Row 1 (RS) is clear. However, row 2(WS) says:
Sl1,p1(3,5,7,5,7) etc. Is there a specific reason why the adult small says to purl 7 stitches while the adult medium 5 and the adult large is 7? All other stitches in parentheses seem to go from smaller number to larger ones. Thank you!
January 16, 2017 @ 11:28 am
Hi Linda – Yep, that’s the only way the math works for the heel.
January 18, 2017 @ 2:33 pm
Thank you! I went ahead diligently following the directions and it worked! I think it was a case of being a timid sock knitter!! Getting stronger!
January 4, 2017 @ 6:55 pm
I am at the toe shaping: If I move my BOR to the side of the foot, I will only have 2 stitches left on my front needle to do the k1, ssk. I have less stitches on my front needle than the back. What can I do to make this work on circular needle?
January 5, 2017 @ 10:17 am
Hi Sara – once you move your BOR to the side of your foot you can re-arrange your needles however you like, if you are working magic loop, just pull the cord out at a different spot and place a marker at the new BOR.
January 5, 2017 @ 10:55 am
ok thank you so much!
January 2, 2017 @ 10:02 pm
ok so I am at the gusset, picked up my stitches and now I’m doing round 1 and 2. For Round 2, I am a little confused. Am I using only the marker that is in the middle of the heel (BOR)? When it says “work in pattern across foot to marker” am I k3, P12, knit to end (BOR) and then K1,ssk, knit all the way again to BOR?
January 2, 2017 @ 10:39 pm
Hi Sara – You should have a BOR marker at the middle of the bottom of the foot (or if you are using DPNs you will have a new needle start there), a marker at the beginning of the top of the foot, and a marker at the end of the top of the foot. Your decreases come before the top of the foot and after the top of the foot.
January 4, 2017 @ 6:04 pm
Thank you!
December 13, 2016 @ 12:42 pm
Hi, where would I make adjustments for a larger calf and ankle and small foot? I have a 13 inch calf, a 9 inch ankle and a size 7 foot – thanks
December 13, 2016 @ 12:45 pm
You would probably want to cast on more sts and work decreases over the leg to get to the desired size for the foot (probably ultimately you want to get to the adult M numbers). The foot length is adjustable.
December 5, 2016 @ 7:40 am
This is an amazing pattern and tutorial! I’ve spent the better part of three years knitting scarves, blankets… anything flat, but this pattern has given me the confidence to try my hand at something a bit more “advanced.”
If I remember correctly, there are pictures at each step (i.e. gusset, heel turn) to give some indication of how the sock is supposed to look. However, they are for those knitting on dpns. Would it be possible to have images available for the magic loop option as well? It would be greatly appreciated, especially when it comes to rejoining the row after the heel turn.
November 30, 2016 @ 3:17 pm
In toe decrease,
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2,
ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1
[4 sts decreased]
“knit to 3 sts before marker” –> I’m on DPNs…Is this this same as knitting until the 3 last sts on the second needle
November 30, 2016 @ 7:14 pm
So your markers are at the start of the round and at the halfway point in your round. I keep half my sts on the first needle so my markers would be at the beginning and end of that needle.
December 11, 2016 @ 7:12 pm
How do you keep your markers from falling off the ends of the needles, if they are on the ends? I’m at the toe decreases and am completely lost! I’m using DPNs, size L, there are 12 stitches on each needle, divided up equally from mid-heel around. I’m assuming the decreases are along the sides of the toe, but I can’t figure out where to start my ‘count’.
December 13, 2016 @ 8:52 am
Hi Diane – When I work with DPNs I don’t use markers, I treat the ends of the needles as markers. So I keep the top of the foot all on one needle and treat the ends of that needle as my ‘markers’
May 2, 2019 @ 10:47 am
I’m having trouble with the toe as well. I have the BOR marker, and a marker on either side of the garter panel, but it seems to be referencing a different marker. What’s going on here? There should be two decreases on each side of the foot, but if I follow this pattern exactly using my garter panel markers 3 would be close to each other. Where in the pattern was a marker placed at the halfway point of the round?
May 3, 2019 @ 12:52 am
Hi Angela – the markers around your garter panel are not part of the pattern, it was just a suggestion for keeping your garter panel in the right spot. The second marker is placed during the gusset section, it’s the second marker in that section.
May 2, 2019 @ 10:55 am
When I move the BOR 12 stitches from the bottom of the heel it definitely does not replace the first market of the garter panel as suggested in another comment. So then the pattern says “k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1” I guess that the “marker” is the first marker of the garter panel, but then there’s no mention of the second marker and no more decreases until all the way around to the BOR. This doesn’t make sense to me.
May 2, 2019 @ 11:10 am
I think I get it now. When I saw PM after picking up stiches from the heel flap, I assumed they were supposed to be for the garter panel and put them there, so I ended up without the markers needed for the toe decrease. Aaagghh. Thanks for the free pattern. Other than this it was super easy for a first time sock knitter.
October 30, 2016 @ 9:54 am
Hi there – this is my first attempt at socks. I’m at the point of the toe decrease and am at a stand still. When I moved my BOR 11K to the right it is at exactly the same point as my first marker. Therefore I can’t do what the Round 1 instructs. What have I done wrong? I’m using the magic loop and I lost a marker but am sure I replaced it in the correct place. How many stitches are there between the #1 and #2 markers, between the pattern? Thanks!
October 31, 2016 @ 9:03 pm
Hi Julia – you’ve got it right, when you move the BOR marker, you move it to the same position as the first marker, so you will only need 1 marker in your work. When you shift the BOR you go down to 2 markers in your work.
October 21, 2016 @ 5:43 pm
Hello, I’m a beginning knitter working on my first ever sock. I was able to turn the heal successfully, but when it came time to pick up the stitches from the heel flap, I realized that somehow everything got oriented in such a way that I must work from the wrong side (purl when the pattern says knit, etc). I am wondering if this is actually a problem–if I pay attention to my stitches, can I just keep knitting from the wrong side? Also, how in the heck did this happen? I first noticed the discrepancy when I was looking at the pictures of how to turn the heel–I noticed that the “wrong side” was oriented towards the left while mine was oriented to the right. Thanks!
October 23, 2016 @ 12:40 am
Hi Leah – It might be fine, it’s hard to say without seeing it. Perhaps you turned your work instead of joining to work in the round again?
October 23, 2016 @ 10:18 am
Okay, since posting this I’ve mostly resolved the problem. I think you’re correct that I must have turned it one extra time when turning the heel. What was actually happening was that I was knitting the round backwards. I ended up having to turn the work back around and re-knit one DPN, so it seems to have one more row than the other two. I’m not sure if this will cause major problems down the line, but I had to do it to get the working yarn in the spot that I needed it to be. I’m glad I decided to do it rather than try to continue to knit the round backwards, because I immediately ran in to the conundrum of how to do a ssk backwards…would it just be a ssp? Maybe, but I had no way of really knowing with my limited experience. Thank you for such a great tutorial–it is so clear that even when I run in to rookie problems, I can troubleshoot my way out of them.
October 9, 2016 @ 1:48 pm
Hi, thank you for your tutorial. I am confused with the toe section. I am knitting on ciricular needles and currently have two markers placed – I am knitting baby socks and the markers are placed 2 stitches before the garterpanel on either side. Following your tutorial to shift the BOR I have K7 from the start of my needle (I assume this is my current BOR, I do not have a marker at the moment because it is the start of my needle) and then I end up for my BOR to be at exact the same place as the first marker anyway? Is this correct? And can I get rid of the two other markers now? And when you say round 1 and 2, does this mean starting at the new BOR? So far your instructions have been very clear, but now I am a bit lost. Thank you.
October 10, 2016 @ 4:29 pm
Hi Tabea – it sounds like your BOR marker has already moved to the right place, so you have the 2 markers separating the sock into 2 halves. The decreases come on either side of these two markers. Does that help?
October 12, 2016 @ 2:11 pm
Hi Alexa, thank you for this. However, I think it is still not right.When it says knit to 3st before marker do you mean the first marker or the second marker? I have now knitted one round assuming you mean the first marker (after 7 stitches), but if I carry on doing it this way quite soon I wont be able to have any three stitches before my marker left because this is where I am decreasing… Thank you for any clarification!
October 19, 2016 @ 9:42 am
Hi Tabea – it is hard to help without actually seeing the work. When you are working the gusset you will have a marker at the middle of the bottom of the foot. That is your BOR marker. At the start of the toe you are going to move that marker to the side of the foot (by removing the marker, knitting, and re-placing the marker). You will then only have 2 markers, one at each side of the foot. You will work k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the next marker (the second marker), k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the end of the round, k2tog, k1. You are decreasing before and after each marker. You may want to make the 2 markers different colours so you know which one is the BOR marker.
November 6, 2017 @ 5:03 pm
I’m also having trouble here. I don’t have a second marker–just the BOR marker. Where should the second marker be placed? There’s nothing in the pattern about a second marker.
November 8, 2017 @ 9:30 am
Hi Kimberly – the second marker is placed at the gusset:
Pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along the edge of heel
flap, PM, work in pattern across top of foot, keeping the garter
panel intact, PM, pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along
heel flap, k4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts, mark the new beginning of round
(located at the bottom of the foot). [38 (44, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts]
At the toe you should have 1/2 of your sts for the top of the foot (with the garter panel in the middle) and 1/2 of your sts on the bottom of the foot.
Around the web / Octobre 2016 – Mouton noir
October 3, 2016 @ 11:54 am
[…] et approuvés : en vidéo avec Alice Hammer et KnitSpirit, en pas-à-pas schématisés chez Tin Can Knits (en anglais) et avec plein de conseils pratiques chez (feu) In the […]
July 11, 2016 @ 5:52 pm
I just finished my first sock following your pattern and I’m so pleased. I made heaps of mistakes and dropped stitches, mucked up the pattern but learned heaps! And I made a sock that I can actually wear. I’ve started the second sock and it is already much better than the first. Thank you so much for the great pattern and instructions. I’m mightily chuffed!
June 21, 2016 @ 12:21 pm
After knitting the heel how many stichess do I pick up? I’m knitting medium
June 25, 2016 @ 11:09 pm
The free Rye socks pattern has all the details!
Meias |
June 9, 2016 @ 8:27 am
[…] https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/socks/ […]
June 9, 2016 @ 7:52 am
Reblogged this on .
Le Blog Le Mouton Noir s’inspire de Nina D. !- Around the web / mai 2016 – Nina D. Inspiration
June 1, 2016 @ 2:25 am
[…] premières chaussettes… Fière, je suis :-)! J’ai bien étudié les explications pas à pas de Tin Can Knits , j’ai acheté des aiguilles 2.25 (yep….) et j’ai choisi le modèle Hermione’s every day […]
Around the web / mai 2016 – Mouton noir
May 30, 2016 @ 1:45 am
[…] chaussettes… Fière, je suis :-)! J’ai bien étudié les explications pas à pas de Tin Can Knits , j’ai acheté des aiguilles 2.25 (yep….) et j’ai choisi le modèle […]
May 23, 2016 @ 11:49 am
I am knitting socks for the first time. Thanks for the pattern and tutorial! I have a question about the heel. The pattern says:
Next round: k14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24), then place these sts on hold. You will work the heel flap on the next k14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts.
I am knitting medium. Do I knit the 22, put them on hold, knit the back 22 and then start the rows? Or do I only knit the ones being put on hold and then start the rows?
Thank you!
May 24, 2016 @ 11:17 am
Hi – only knit the ones on hold, then start the short rows.
May 25, 2016 @ 5:10 am
Thank you!
December 16, 2016 @ 7:16 pm
For Row 1 (RS) of heel flap, I still use the back needle with the working yarn attached, to go into the front needle stitches?
December 19, 2016 @ 9:13 am
Hi Sara – yep, you have it just right
May 15, 2016 @ 6:07 am
How many stitches of gauge do you recommend for the rye socks? Thank you.
May 15, 2016 @ 6:11 pm
Do you mean how many stitches should you cast on for a gauge swatch?
April 28, 2016 @ 10:02 am
Beginning Knitter here- wanted to leave a note of appreciation for these easy to follow and pictorial (as opposed to the dreaded video only) instructions. I’ve been procrastinating on attempting to start a pair of socks. I have frogged them 3x and this is just in the ribbing, as my stitches were all messed up – I’ll try to describe my issue: ONE st. turns into TWO sts, instead of being one neat yarn with a neat st ‘knot’ on the bottom of the needle, the ‘knot’ part of the st is widened somehow? so I end up making increases because the “stitch part” of the st. is all messy. Do you know what I mean? I am not sure, but I think it is because I am not putting the yarn in front for Purls and yarn in back for Knits properly- even though I try. I keep just unraveling it all and starting over, soon I will be too frustrated to attempt it again. I don’t have a grandma or auntie or knitting friend around, and the I absolutely hate having to spend hours sifting through videos that don’t address this one issue. I can’t be the only one?
April 28, 2016 @ 10:18 am
(sorry can’t edit my 1st comment) when knitting in the round, it is difficult for me to place yarn in front for purls and yarn in back for knits. causing this weird messy stitch thing giving me accidental increases. The fumbling with all the needles and trying to keep the working yarn on the outside of the needles is really messing me up. I think I just need to watch more videos.
April 29, 2016 @ 9:44 am
Hi – I would say the problem is definitely that you aren’t putting your yarn to the front for purls or the back for knits. This is a crucial step in ribbing because if you don’t you will end up doubling your stitches. You want to make sure your yarn goes to the front BETWEEN the needles and to the back BETWEEN the needles. IF you go over the needle you will end up increasing the number of stitches.
April 23, 2016 @ 6:57 am
Question—I live in a VERY hot, humid climate. In the winter our coldest days are only in the 40s, and that is rare. Since animal fibers are generally out of the question, I usually use a light weight cotton, bamboo or synthetic yarn.
So to my question….Is it possible to convert this pattern to a fingering weight? If so, would I just adjust my needle size?
Btw, thank you so much for taking the time to post these fantastic tutorials. I usually find it difficult to learn knitting techniques from anything other than straightforward videos. With your photos, I don’t find it difficult at all because you have explained everything so well already. And Free…need it say more!!
April 24, 2016 @ 10:17 am
Hi Kara – while it would certainly be POSSIBLE to convert this pattern to fingering weight, it is a bit of a jump so adjusting needles size probably wont work. I would recommend Jane Richmond’s Climb socks, they are in fingering weight and have a simple construction.
April 26, 2016 @ 5:51 am
I just checked ’em out. Thanks for the recommendation and the quick reply.
You guys rock!
March 29, 2016 @ 5:23 am
Question about Rye pattern,
Heel turn size medium adult
Row 2. Sl1, p1(3,5,7,5,7)
Why isn’t it p7 like the small and large sock
March 29, 2016 @ 10:32 am
Just the magic of the heel turn!
April 1, 2016 @ 3:43 am
It doesn’t look right, after I’ve done it??
April 4, 2016 @ 2:28 pm
I promise, it is right. If you want to email us a picture I’d be happy to take a look though.
March 3, 2016 @ 10:40 am
I am doing great on the sock except I seem to have dropped a stitch on the edge. But I cannot see the obvious dropped stitch that should be there! I tried to find the spot I think it is but then there’s a hole under that spot after I start fixing it.. I’m thinking I’m going to have to unravel quite a bit :( Why am
I not seeing where this stitch is.. I have the loose ladder look but..I have picked up stitches before..Is it me lol?!
March 4, 2016 @ 10:51 am
It may just be a ladder, rather than a dropped stitch. If you are using DPNs for the first time you may just want to make sure you are giving the first stitch on the needle an extra tug.
March 2, 2016 @ 9:29 am
Just started these socks. Using magic loop technique. Just completed cuff. Instructions easy to understand. Onward!
January 20, 2016 @ 6:28 am
Hi! I am not new to sock knitting but I was hoping you could help me out. Every pair of socks that I have made for myself fit beautifully at first but then begin to slouch and then are all stretched out. I am using US 2 needles as I am a tight knitter and get 8-9 spi depending on the yarn. I have used a variety of yarn, wool and wool with nylon at different percentages. What could I be doing wrong?
January 25, 2016 @ 12:57 pm
Hmm, I’m not sure. I would definitely try a smaller needle. It may be an issue of washing? When you wash them make sure you aren’t blocking them too big.
March 3, 2016 @ 1:11 pm
I’ve had a similar problem in the past that was solved by changing the way I store my socks: instead of balling them up together, or storing them inside one another so the fabric can’t get a rest, I started laying them flat on top of one another and gently rolling them into a cylinder with the “elastic” on the inside of the roll (storing them on end in the drawer for easy access). I’ve found they keep their shape better and last longer than before. I’ve also heard of using the next size down from what’s recommended in a pattern for the foot to keep it from losing it’s shape.
March 4, 2016 @ 10:49 am
Great tip on storing hand knit socks! Thanks!
January 8, 2016 @ 10:36 am
This is my first “real” knitting project that will be something other than a scarf or dish cloth. It was going alright, but after I turned the heel and started working down the foot part of the sock the pattern became inside-out. What did I do wrong?
January 9, 2016 @ 9:06 pm
Hi Candace – are you sure you aren’t just looking at your knitting inside out? What happens when you push the knitting through so it is right side out?
December 24, 2015 @ 5:49 pm
I love this pattern! Thank you so much. And this is a silly question.. but how do I know if I’m making a left sock or right sock? I’ve been looking at the pattern and I’m starting on the heel right now but it’s been bugging me.
Thank you!
December 24, 2015 @ 11:09 pm
Not a silly questions, but in the case of this pattern, they are the same! There is no Left or Right foot. Some patterns which have mirrored stitch patterns for example would have left and right socks, worked slightly differently.
Sea Inspired Socks | Tin Can Knits
December 15, 2015 @ 12:02 am
[…] try the Rye Socks from The Simple Collection first, and follow along with our step-by-step tutorial ‘Let’s Knit Socks’. But maybe you’re looking to expand your skills, learn to read knitting charts, or learning to […]
November 26, 2015 @ 3:48 pm
Hi, I’m knitting my first pair of socks using this pattern and have been loving it! I totally had heel turn fear, but you’ve eradicated it, thank you.
However, I am having trouble making sense of the instructions for the toe decreases.
“k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts *before marker*, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 (4 sts decreased)”
Which marker? I only have a marker at the new BOR, as per the previous step. Do you mean the optional markers before and after the garter panel? That doesn’t seem right to me, as there are now only 5 stitches between BOR and the garter panel (large adult size), which would make it impossible to k1, ssk and still have three stitches before the marker.
Please help, I’m so confused!
December 14, 2015 @ 12:08 am
Hi Gillian – so glad you have decided to tackle socks! The markers were placed (PM) during the gusset pick up. They are at either side of the top of the foot.
How to Slip a Stitch | Tin Can Knits
November 17, 2015 @ 10:50 am
[…] the left needle to the right needle without working it. This technique is used in socks (see the ‘let’s knit socks’ tutorial for more sock related techniques) among other things and is often used on scarves (slip the first […]
November 16, 2015 @ 10:00 am
I love this pattern and the detailed instructions are wonderful for a new sock knitter, like myself. I am working on my first pair using DPN’s (toddler size) and I have found once I have picked up the appropriate number of stitches and move the knit row, I am on the WS, so it is like I am inside out and I end up having to purl to keep the stockinette stitch in the RS (outside of sock). essentially for it to come out right I end up purling the knits and knitting the purls, I thought the first sock was just an error on my part. SO second sock I really paid more attention to be sure I wasn’t missing something and the same thing has happened. Any insight into what I may be doing to get mixed up like this?
November 17, 2015 @ 10:28 am
Hi Lori – do you mean after you have picked up sts for the gusset? You wans to make sure you are joining up with the heel sts to continue working in the round. The only part of a sock that is worked on the wrong side is the heel flap and heel turn.
March 4, 2016 @ 8:04 am
I believe your problem is when you finished your heel flap and/or heel turn. If you did not end up on the Right Side (RS) of the sock before picking up your heel flap stitches you would be working like the sock was inside out. Make sure when you finish your heel flap/heel turn that you are on the RS of the sock. If not, do one more row for the heel flap to be on the RS of the sock. Hope this helps and good luck. ~~Mack
KAL Chaussettes | Biroulegem
September 13, 2015 @ 8:18 am
[…] enfin un article en anglais, mais avec un schéma détaillant toutes les parties d’une chaussette, bien pratique pour se […]
August 26, 2015 @ 1:08 pm
I’ve been muddling along with magic loop on this tutorial but I’ve reached the point where I’ve picked up the second set of slipped stitches but I’m really confused about which stitches go on which half of the loop now as the pictures are only good for DPNs…
August 28, 2015 @ 10:55 pm
Hi – it doesn’t really matter which stitches go on which half for magic loop, you will have markers where you need them.
How to Knit Lace – an introduction to lace knitting | Tin Can Knits
June 23, 2015 @ 12:01 am
[…] If you aren’t familiar with our excellent tutorials, check out The Simple Collection – our free learn-to-knit series with 8 patterns and in-depth tutorials covering knitting techniques from how to knit and purl to how to knit your first sweater and socks! […]
June 11, 2015 @ 5:55 pm
I can not for the life of me figure out the decreasing toe part. I end up ssk and k2tog 3 times in a row and then all the way at the “end” of the round! This is very confusing :( I am using the magic loop method and this is my 1st sock, making it in child’s size. Is there something I’m missing? I moved the beginning of the round 9 sts, and follow pattern as written, but it’s all wrong… I’m not experienced at socks enough to figure it out.
June 12, 2015 @ 3:31 pm
Hi Tali – sorry to hear you are having troubles! The instructions do work as written. What is it that is confusing? I’m not sure how to help clear it up…
June 23, 2015 @ 1:47 pm
I’m pretty sure this is a user error… it is specifically when you have to move the BOR… i think I messed it up. Seeing the diagram on this blog makes more sense. I will knit the 2nd one and let you know how it goes!
June 30, 2015 @ 4:25 am
Good Luck!
May 20, 2015 @ 4:09 pm
I have enjoyed this pattern so much, until… Oh my! I put this down at the wrong time and dropped my stitch markers (and stitches!). I recovered the stitches, but not the markers. I’m JUST about to decrease at the toe on a small adult sock. Can you tell me where the BOR should be in relation to the garter stitch? Does this make sense? Would sure appreciate the help.
May 26, 2015 @ 2:00 pm
Hi Sara – the BOR at the start of the toe will be at the side of the foot. Divide your number stitches in 1/2 and the garter panel should be smack in the middle of the top of foot
Little Squirrel | Tin Can Knits
April 30, 2015 @ 5:56 am
[…] you are feeling daunted by socks, don’t be. We have a step by step tutorial that covers all the […]
March 17, 2015 @ 8:58 am
Thank you so much!!! I am a new knitter, Male but I like to give gifts too my family. I love that I can make so many of your new free patterns for anyone and have fun learning!
February 25, 2015 @ 1:28 pm
I am knitting my first ever pair of socks and you have made it a dream with your very clear tutorial it was recommended to me over on Ravelry
February 24, 2015 @ 9:41 am
Hi I’ve really enjoyed knitting my first sock but I’m confused when it comes to the toe section. I’m knitting the largest size with the magic loop method & I don’t have a BOR marker & so I’m not sure where the decreases should be? Could you tell me how many stitches from the garter stitch panel they should be? Your tutorial is very clear apart from this bit…please help! Many thanks :))
February 25, 2015 @ 9:39 pm
You will have 48 sts, 5 sts, before and after your garter panel
February 16, 2015 @ 10:30 pm
Love your tutorial and this sock pattern. Tried socks with a different beginners pattern last year. Finished the socks but not without a great deal of confusion and frogging! This “rye”pattern is great and I am recommending it to my knitting group! Thank you…….
February 19, 2015 @ 12:01 am
You’re welcome, and thanks for the compliment!
January 24, 2015 @ 1:12 pm
I like the pattern and finished my first pair…! How could I adapt this to use sock yarn? I made a size small for myself…thank you…the second sock looks better :)
January 28, 2015 @ 8:58 am
Hi Ann – Congratulations on finishing your socks! If you wanted to make a sock-weight version, I would suggest casting on 60 sts for an adult size, and working a garter stitch panel of 18 stitches. Then you’d work the heel over 30 sts. But the pattern doesn’t have instructions for that size a heel, so you’d want to follow a pattern that does… if you worked the heel over 32 sts, you could use the instructions from the Monkey Sock Pattern (it’s an excellent design if you want to try a lace sock…) It’s a free pattern on Knitty.com : http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTmonkey.html
February 11, 2015 @ 12:51 pm
Thank you….am doing my second sock now but doubled sock yarn and made size medium….still need your notes:).
January 11, 2015 @ 8:16 pm
I’ve started knitting socks and I really want to try this pattern but I only have #4 and #6 needles. Will those work for making kids socks?
January 12, 2015 @ 6:26 pm
You might want to work the size down, since knitting is pretty stretchy and they will come out a bit big on those needles.
February 15, 2016 @ 9:52 am
I know I’m a year late to your comment, but I ran into the exact same problem, and so i decided to go ahead with #4 for the rib and #6 for the body. I was also using DK (#3) yarn – which is smaller than in the pattern. I don’t recommend going by the pattern sized on this if you’re going to be making “adjustments” for needle/yarn size. I made the sock using the Large adult size because I was making it for a man with size, 12-13 feet. So I didn’t think I could possibly make it too large. But I was wrong. It does not fit like it should. If you’ve not done so already, I recommend getting the right size needles (trust me) and also do a gauge swatch so you can make it the right size. Also, remember that the socks are stretchy so its okay if its a little smaller, but you can’t (or at least I couldn’t with my 50/50 acryllic/wool yarn) make it fitted if its too big. At least, I’ve learned something new in the 8 hours I spent on these socks. Best of luck!
sokken | breiwerk en breiontwerp
January 11, 2015 @ 1:42 am
[…] elkaar te verbinden. En dat doe ik dus allemaal zo maar :) Dankzij dit patroon van tin can knits: Rye. Alle vaardigheden had ik al, maar dankzij hun prachtige uitleg, kan ik ze ook […]
January 6, 2015 @ 3:52 pm
Question: re: Toe decrease: In Round 1 you state K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before marker, K2tog, K2. How can you K2tog, then Knit another 2 if there are only 3 stitches left before the marker?
January 12, 2015 @ 6:30 pm
You are always slipping the marker as you come to it so you will be working a k2tog, knitting 1, slipping your marker, knitting 1, then ssk etc.
October 3, 2014 @ 9:51 pm
does ‘rye’ exist with toe-up directions too?
October 17, 2014 @ 2:43 pm
We were keeping it simple with just the top down version, but will take your suggestion under advisement!
February 5, 2015 @ 2:11 pm
I’d like to second this request. I’m just learning socks and would love to try both styles. :)
January 26, 2015 @ 11:49 am
Would love to also try toe up….new to socks and want to see which one I like better
July 31, 2014 @ 9:54 am
Do you block your socks with pins or just lay flat? Thanks!
August 5, 2014 @ 10:07 pm
I just lay flat, but if you are feeling fancy there are also sock blockers, check your LYS!
April 29, 2015 @ 10:46 pm
Or make some yourself: http://softwareforknitters.com/blockers.htm
July 7, 2014 @ 3:52 pm
At the gusset and foot section, it says to pick up and knit 12 (in my case) stitches and knit 7, but where are those 7 supposed to come from? I have 7 that could be picked up in order to meet the stitches where I began, but am I supposed to ignore them?
July 10, 2014 @ 2:15 pm
knit the 7 stitches from the heel
June 27, 2014 @ 6:00 pm
When will the detailed sox pdf be available?
June 27, 2014 @ 7:05 am
When will your detailed pdf handout be available?
I’m a newbie, and have somewhat successfully created one (albeit mildly deformed!) sock. Eagerly beginning its mate.
Don’t always have access to a computer so a printed handout would be helpful.
Love your informative site; the tutorials are fabulous and easy to follow. Many thanks!
June 22, 2014 @ 8:31 pm
I am having a very difficult time with the gusset & foot section. I am using the magic loop section technique. I have looked at the printed tutorial but it isn’t showing magic loop. Do you have an online video of this section with the magic loop? I will really appreciate your help!
June 28, 2014 @ 11:39 pm
We don’t have a video about magic loop, but check out our detailed photo tutorial is here: http://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/magic-loop/
If this doesn’t help, go to youtube, and search for ‘magic loop’ videos! There will be many to choose from.
May 5, 2014 @ 9:15 am
I am so excited I found your blog! Well done…. *jumping for joy in my new socks*
February 8, 2014 @ 7:56 pm
My question is about determining size. When I measure for the cuff, about 6 inches abode my ankle, I get 10 inches which is bigger than a large. I am not a heavy person. I typically wear a size 9.5 U.S.
Also, what cast on is good to use for this sock?
Thanks
February 11, 2014 @ 8:34 pm
Hi Barb
I would use a stretchy cast on, like a long tail. You probably want to knit a medium, remember knitting is really really stretchy!
February 6, 2014 @ 2:36 pm
Thank you for this tutorial !
I’m a beginner and i have almost finished my first sock :)
But i have a problem, i have to make the toe parts and i have lost my BOR and PM, so i can’t follow this step.
Could i please have some information to find their positions?
Thanks again!
February 11, 2014 @ 8:34 pm
The BOR for the toe decreases is at the side of the foot, you should be able to find this by looking at the heel.
December 10, 2013 @ 6:53 am
This is my first “go” at sock-knitting. I’m working on the cuff and it appears inside out. Did I make a mistake?
December 11, 2013 @ 5:12 pm
I doubt you’ve made a mistake! Try flipping it the other way, and you may find it’s really the right way out. Hope this helps, and let me know if it still is not coming out right!
December 16, 2013 @ 8:11 pm
Yay! I’m good now, thanks!
November 7, 2013 @ 4:26 pm
Hello I’ve just started this as my first sock pattern. I’m using magic loop and have a question about knitting on round 1 and 2 to my reasoning a round would be knitting both needles until in my particular example the cxast on tail is at right (starting point) but the pictures of the pattern show only one side with the garter stitch only on one side. Does this then mean that only one side of my tube should contain the garter and the other side should just be knitted?
thanks!
November 7, 2013 @ 10:14 pm
Hi Kara
Yep, the garter panel is only on the ‘top’ of the sock (only on one side). Whether you are using magic loop or DPN’s a round is a round, it starts at your beginning of round marker and ends back at that same marker.
November 1, 2013 @ 3:11 pm
I am loving your rye sock pattern! First of all Rye is special to me because I got married at Rye Beach, NH and every summer we travel there and spend time with my inlaws and now my four year old son. I do have a question though I get stuck everytime ( working on DPN’s) when I get the toe section. First what exactly is needle one? Do I start knitting on the two/ three stitches before pattern design then use those markers? Then start the K1, ssk, before the marker design? I am just a bit confused, this is the only issue I have had with this pattern. Yipeee! I can’t wait to do mittens, and your simple sweater! Thank You this has been such a nice, enjoyable experience with no cussing or throwing my needles across the room :-)
August 24, 2014 @ 12:36 pm
I have been trying and trying and trying to knit my first sock, but cannot seem to rejoin the yarn in the round after turning the heel. I’m confused about “how many and which stitches go on what needles”. Could you please explain the gusset & foot part where you pick up and knit the 8 stitches, work in pattern, pick up and knit the other side with 8 stitches, and then k4 to mark the new beginning of the round. Does that mean that the picked up stitches are on the first needle, the stitches across the top of the foot are on the second needle, and the second set of picked up stitches along with the next 4 stitches are on the 3rd needle?
August 24, 2014 @ 2:35 pm
Hi Bett
I like to distribute my stitches by keeping 1/2 the heel sts and the first set of picked up stitches on my first needle, the stitches for the top of the foot on the second needle, and the picked up sts and the other 1/2 of the heel sts on the third needle. That way I can treat the ends of my needles as markers and don’t need to place a marker (the BOR is in the middle of the heel sts).
May 18, 2019 @ 11:21 am
Hello I have one question
When we make the swatch at the really beginning which needle is it supposed to match ? Us #1 or us#2 ?? I’m a bit lost 😅
May 21, 2019 @ 12:44 pm
Hi – I would say, rather than a swatch you want to just cast on and once you get a few inches into the leg, measure your gauge. If it’s too loose or tight you can rip back to the ribbing, but if your gauge is good you can keep going! But to answer your question, gauge is on the larger needles, the #2
October 24, 2013 @ 5:14 am
Thank you ,thank you.the tutorials are very good. I just finish a sock, very happy that at last I knit a sock. Thanks a million
October 18, 2013 @ 4:00 am
Thanks, this is great! Loving this pattern. The tutorials are all really helpful — I will be referring people here in the future!
One confusion I have — when knitting the heel turn, at the end it says “Knit across the heel stitches.” I’m not sure what this means – complete the “ending” row with knits? Do I add another row of knits? This is confusing to a beginner.
October 23, 2013 @ 11:35 am
This means that after you have completed the heel turn, you will knit across the remaining heel stitches (knit all the stitches). Then you are in position to pick up stitches along the side of the heel flap, with the RS (right side) of the work facing you. Hope this helps!
October 27, 2013 @ 12:22 pm
Makes sense — thanks for the reply! Socks are challenging, but this tutorial makes them more accessible :)
October 3, 2013 @ 10:41 am
I love this simple but classic sock pattern. Thanks for sharing and the tuturial.
October 3, 2013 @ 7:10 am
Absolutely fabulous tutorial! I’m about to start a pair of socks and this really helped lay it all out for me. Thank you!
July 27, 2016 @ 1:10 am
Hi how do you go from the toe up thanks.
July 27, 2016 @ 12:13 pm
Hi Linea – we don’t yet have a toe up sock pattern or tutorial, sorry!