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Let’s Knit a Sweater

October 25, 2013

Are you ready? It’s time to knit your very first sweater! Two of the challenges many knitters face when creating their first garment are gauge and fit. Review our tutorial on gauge to ensure your sweater comes out to the dimensions you want, and learn about choosing your size to ensure you get a sweater that fits the way you want it to.

Flax is adorable on wee ones and big ones alike. Make a little size to learn the techniques, or jump off the deep end and get started on a sweater for yourself.

::: Knitting Flax Light? :::

This tutorial includes excerpts from the Flax pattern. If you’re following the Flax Light pattern, all the techniques described below will apply, but the numbers will be different.

::: Get Started :::

Download a copy of the Flax pullover pattern or the Flax Light (they’re free!) grab your yarn and needles, and let’s get down to business.  If you have been following along and knitting the other free Simple Collection designs: Wheat Scarf, Malt Blanket, Oats Cowl, Barley Hat, Maize Mitts and Rye Socks, you will already have learned most of the techniques required to make the Flax Pullover.  Believe it or not, there aren’t that many complex techniques required to make a simple sweater!

::: Construction :::

The Flax sweater is knit from the top down. This means you will cast on at the collar, using either option 1 or option 2. The raglan increases are worked through the yoke and then the sweater is separated into body and sleeves. The body is worked in rounds to the hem and the sleeves are worked in the round to the cuffs. If you have chosen option 2 for the collar you will work the collar ribbing last.

::: Yoke :::

At the cast-on there are two options. Option 1 is the most straightforward, just cast on and work the ribbing. For Option 2 you will cast on and immediately start the yoke, coming back to pick up and work the ribbing at the end. This option is recommended for a little more structure at the neckline, especially useful in larger sizes.

Remember that your sweater has to go over a head, so make sure your cast on is firm but not too tight to stretch over a noggin.

Option 1: Using smaller circular needles cast on 56 (62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78, 86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96, 96, 96) sts, place BOR marker and join for working in the round.
Establish 1×1 ribbing: (k1, p1) around
Work in ribbing as established (knit the knits and purl the purls) until piece measures 1 (1.5)” from cast-on for Child (Adult) sizes. Change to larger needles.

Option 2 (added structure): Using larger circular needles cast on 56 (62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78, 86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96, 96, 96) sts, place BOR marker and join for working in the round. Knit 1 round.

The fist thing you need to decide for your sweater is which cast-on option you will use. The Flax sweater ‘hangs’ from that cast on point, so picking up and knitting the ribbing later adds a little structure, but it’s a little more straightforward to just cast on and start your sweater. Either way is just fine, but if you are knitting a larger size you may want to consider a little extra structure at the neckline.

See this tutorial for details on casting on in the round. BOR is your beginning of round marker. This tells you where your round starts.

Next round: knit, increasing 4 (4, 4, 4, 8, 18, 16, 12, 18, 22, 26, 24, 36, 46, 48, 54, 56, 72, 86) sts evenly spaced
[60 (66, 72, 78, 82, 94, 94, 98, 104, 108, 112, 114, 126, 136, 144, 150, 152, 168, 182) sts]

This may seem like a complicated instruction but follow along and we will do a little math. What this means is that you have 56 (62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78,86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96, 96, 96) sts and you need to increase 4 (4, 4, 4, 8, 18, 16, 12, 18, 22, 26, 24, 36, 46, 48, 54, 56, 72, 86) sts for a total of 60 (66, 72, 78, 82, 94, 94, 98, 104, 108, 112, 114, 126, 136, 144, 150, 152, 168, 182) sts. So how are we going to do this?

Take the number of stitches you have and divide them by the number of sts you need to increase:

eg. For the 0-6 mo size: you have 56 sts and you need to increase 4 sts, 56/4 = 14

So I will knit 14 sts, then make 1 stitch 4 times and I will have 60 sts.

It gets a little more complicated when the numbers don’t work so perfectly.

eg. for the size XS: you have 86 sts, and you need to increase 12 sts, 86/12 = 7.16. So I will knit 7 sts, then make 1, 12 times, then knit to the end.

Although this may seem unnecessarily complicated (why don’t we just do the math for you?!) it’s an instruction you will come across often in sweater patterns. If we wrote out each size every time we had to do an increase round like this our patterns would be 10 pages long!

Marker setup: [p10 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 17, 19, 21), PM, k20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 33, 33, 34, 37, 39, 41, 42, 47, 52, 55, 58, 59, 65, 70), PM] twice
(these raglan markers indicate the divisions between right sleeve, front, left sleeve, and back sections)


This establishes where the sleeves, front and back are. The sleeves are worked with a garter panel down the middle, while the front and back are worked in stockinette st. [learn more about basic stitch patterns here].

When you are working back and forth, garter stitch is created by knitting every row, but in the round garter stitch is created by knitting on 1 round and purling on the next. Stockinette in the round is created by knitting every round. Since you never turn your work, the right side is always facing you, and therefore the stitches are created differently.

::: Keeping the garter panel in tact :::

The sleeves have a garter panel on them that is maintained throughout the sweater. The garter panel will always be the central 10 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 17, 19, 21) sts, no matter what else is happening in the sweater.

Tip: If you are having trouble remembering where the garter panel goes (or you just want things to be a little more fool proof) you may want to place a marker on either side of the panel. Just remember not to work your raglan increases at these extra markers.

::: Raglan increases :::

The Yoke of the sweater is created by increasing (with a kfb) at 8 points on the sweater, 2 sts increased for each sleeve and 2 sts increased on the front and the back. You will be increasing on either side of the 4 raglan markers. One increase comes before the marker and one increase comes after.


Once you have completed the yoke increases it’s time to measure. You will be working rounds ‘even’ (this means without increases, keeping the garter panel on the sleeves as set). If your round gauge matches that stated in the patter, you will need to work 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 4, 6, 2, 0, 0, 2, 2, 2) rounds even. If not you will work as many rows as necessary for your yoke to measure:

For option 1: 4.5 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10.5, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12, 12, 12)” deep, measured from
cast-on, ending with a round 2.

For option 2: 3.5 (4, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 9, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 10.5, 10.5)” deep, measured from cast-on, ending with a round 2.

::: Short Row Shaping :::

If you are feeling adventurous you might want to add short row shaping to your sweater. This will raise the back neck of the sweater relative to the front. It is completely optional so if this is your very first sweater just keep going! Full short row instructions can be found here.

::: Separate Body and Sleeves :::

Now for the fun part: Once you separate the body and sleeves it will start to look like an actual sweater! You will be placing your sleeve sts on waste yarn, casting on sts at the underarm, and joining the front and back. For further instructions on how to place stitches on waste yarn check out our tutorial here.

Next Round: [place 26 (29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 38, 43, 45, 47, 49, 53, 58, 62, 67, 71, 77, 79, 83) sts on waste yarn (the sts from BOR to first raglan marker), using backwards loop method cast on 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16) sts, knit to marker] twice

Sleeve sts are on hold and there are 80 (88, 92, 100, 108, 118, 126, 140, 150, 158, 166, 176, 194, 212, 230, 248, 262, 278, 296) body sts on the needles.

sleeve sts on waste yarn

sleeve sts on waste yarn

Now you will have just the body sts on your needles with 2 sleeves on waste yarn. Starting to look like a sweater yet?


::: Body :::

Here comes the easy peasy miles of stockinette! Just knit knit knit until your piece is:

For regular length: 5 (5.5, 6, 7, 9, 12, 14, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15.5, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5)”
from underarm (or 1 (1.5)” short of desired length for Child (Adult) sizes).

For cropped length: 3 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8.5, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5)” from underarm (or 1 (1.5)” short of desired length for Child (Adult) sizes).

All options: Change to smaller needles and work in 1×1 ribbing for 1 (1.5)” for Child (Adult) sizes. Bind off all sts loosely.

Binding off: You can choose either a regular bind off or a bind off in pattern. For a regular bind off you are working 2 knit sts, passing the first over the second, knitting another stitch, passing the first over the second etc [tutorial here]. Binding off in pattern is almost the same, but instead of knitting each of the sts you are working them in pattern.

For this sweater it will be: k1, p1, pass st over, k1, pass st over, p1, pass st over, etc.


::: Sleeves :::

Place 26 (29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 38, 43, 45, 47, 49, 53, 58, 62, 67, 71, 77, 79, 83) held sts onto larger DPNs or 16” circular needle for larger sizes. Knit across these sts then pick up and knit 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4,
5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts from body at underarm, PM to indicate BOR, pick up and knit 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8) more sts from body at underarm, then join for working in the round.

Note: You can also use a long circular to knit your sleeves using the magic loop technique.

Put your needle through the live sts before removing the waste yarn.

Put your needle through the live sts before removing the waste yarn.


All sts are on DPNs

picking up underarms sts.

picking up underarms sts.

If you are doing one of the larger sizes, it’s easiest to start with a 16″ circular needle and switch to DPN’s when you have worked a few decrease rounds.

For the smaller sizes you will be picking up your stitches on DPN’s and the easiest way to distribute them is putting the sts from the BOR to the garter panel on N1, the garter panel on N2, and the rest of the sts on N3. The beginning of your round is the first st on N1 (the middle of the underarm).

Once you have picked up all of your sts, you will join again for working in the round. You might have a small hole at the underarm, not to worry, we will stitch that up later.


Work 3 (4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 8, 8, 8, 8, 7, 6, 6, 4, 5, 4, 5, 3)” even, maintaining garter panel and knitting all other stitches.

If you want to adjust the sleeve length, this is a good place to do it. If you want a longer or short sleeve, here is where you should add or subtract inches.

Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1
Work 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 3, 3) rounds even.

Repeat the previous 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4) rounds 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21) more times.
[26 (29, 30, 33, 35, 36, 38, 39, 41, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48, 51, 53, 55, 55, 55) sts]

Continue working sleeve as instructed, you already have all the skills required!

Tip: Making 2 the same

The important thing about knitting sleeves is making 2 the same (sounds obvious right?). So make sure to take notes on the number of rounds you work as you go.

  • how many rounds to the first decrease?
  • how many rounds after the last decrease but before the ribbing?
  • how many rounds in the ribbing?

::: Finishing :::

If you worked option 2 at the cast-on work ribbing as follows:
With smaller needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 1 stitch in each cast-on stitch.
[56 (62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78, 86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96, 96, 96) sts].
Work in 1×1 ribbing for 1 (1.5)” for Child (Adult) sizes. Bind off all sts loosely.

Finishing a sweater can be the most important part. Block your sweater and weave in your ends. There will be a small hole at the underarm, use your tail to sew that up.

You have put a lot of work into your first sweater so don’t skip blocking, it’s an important step. Your yarn has been running through your fingers and probably needs a wash at minimum. Blocking will make your stitches even out and lie flat and generally ‘smooth out’ your work. It’s easy to block a sweater out of proportion if you aren’t careful. Make sure you have your measuring tape handy and that your chest measurements and length are as desired.

This tutorial is part of The Simple Collection – our 100% free learn-to-knit series.  Check out the fabulous free patterns sized from baby to big, and get started making modern seamless knits for the entire family!  Like our work?  Get our email updates and we will let you know about new patterns, tutorials, and events.



629 Comments leave one →
  1. Noor permalink
    October 8, 2021 6:45 am

    Self-taught knitter here who is just trying things out! I have been wanting to learn how to knit top-down for a while now but could never find a good instructional blog post/video/anything that worked for me. This post is my savior!! I’m able to really understand how this is supposed to work now! I won’t be making the Flax but I can’t wait to try this technique for myself!! Thank you!

  2. Charlie permalink
    September 26, 2021 3:37 pm

    Hello, how do I know how many stitches to cast on for a medium size?

  3. Lori permalink
    September 11, 2021 12:53 pm

    I am knitting option 1 of the pullover in size 6-12 months.
    I am confused at the part where the yoke is finished. It says if your gauge matches, to knit 2 more rounds. It says you should be measuring 4” before you knit 2 rounds even.
    But then it says if it doesn’t match gauge, to knit until your yoke measures 5”.
    So should my work measure 4” or 5” before I section off the sleeves?

    • September 13, 2021 5:23 am

      If you’ve worked the ribbing already (option 1), then your work should measure 5″ in total, before separating sleeves. So work whatever even rounds you need to get to that length, measured straight down from the ribbing. But if you’ve worked option 2 (casting on, and saving neckline ribbing for last), then you only knit to 4″, measured from the cast on, because you’ll add on the 1″ of ribbing after the rest of the sweater is knit.

      Hope this helps! Em

  4. Libby Lamb permalink
    August 31, 2021 4:44 am

    I have just started my first top down piece of circular knitting and I am confused about the BOR. Does it become one of the markers (PM) or is it separate?

    • September 6, 2021 6:53 am

      You’ll want to place a marker there (PM), and it is often used as one of the markers when it comes to instructions :)

  5. Maggie Cheng permalink
    August 3, 2021 12:40 pm

    Hi, do you have tutorial videos?

    • August 3, 2021 3:52 pm

      Hi Maggie – A few of our techniques have videos but mostly we have photo tutorials.

  6. Emily Couture permalink
    May 28, 2021 11:34 am

    Hi, I was wondering if you could mix sizes for the sweater? None of the sizes will fit me to well so I want to mix and match measurements from different sizes so I can get a sweater that will fit me really well. Also, if you can mix sizes, will it make it more difficult or cause any problems?

    • May 31, 2021 1:42 am

      Hi Emily – Yes! You can mix sizes, but it will make it more complicated, you will have to adjust the pattern as you go, to reach the desired stitch counts in the places where you want to adjust them. ~ Em

      • Emily Couture permalink
        May 31, 2021 8:21 am

        Thank you!

        For a first-time sweater knitter, do you think it would be wiser to just knit one size?

        Also, just to clarify, for sizes XS-XXL, the needles needed are 4mm dpns, 5mm dpns, 5mm 16″ circular needles, 4mm 16″ circulars, 5mm 32″ circulars, and 4mm 32″ circulars; right?

      • June 6, 2021 10:58 pm

        Yes! It’s definitely going to be most clear to just knit following a single size through if it’s your first sweater. The needle sizes are correct, unless you’re using longer circulars and the magic loop method, in which case you can skip the DPNs. See our Magic Loop tutorial here:

  7. Lesley permalink
    May 13, 2021 1:44 pm

    Hi. I’m wondering for the size ML sleeves, if I were to try doing an 8 stitch cable down the sleeves if I should increase the number of sts in the sleeve section to more than 13sts as I’m assuming with the cable, the stitches would be pulled close to each other and the sleeve may end up being too tight? If so how many sts should I have on either side of the 8 cable sts? I was going to try to do an 8 st honeycomb cable with purl sts on each side of the cable to make the stockinette cable stand out more.

    • May 24, 2021 12:02 am

      You’re right, the cable will pull in and use more stitches per inch than the 13 garter stitches would have. You might want to add 2-4 stitches to the sleeve to compensate :)

  8. Kelsey permalink
    May 13, 2021 9:04 am

    Hello! I’ve really enjoyed knitting Flax! It’s my first sweater and the pattern has been pretty easy to follow!
    That being said, I have a couple of questions:
    I’m knitting size L and I’m to the sleeves and the decreases. The finished sleeve length for the pattern is 21″, and my favorite sweater that I used as a reference for size has sleeves 18″ long. I’m definitely going for the shorter length sleeve, but it’s looking like I might end up doing all the decreases and then have to almost immediately start the cuff, and forget about working a chunk even. Is it okay to not work that even bit? Or should I do less decreases?
    As well, when I try on the sweater I’m finding as I decrease the sleeves are getting snugger than I would like. I’m someone who likes sweaters a little loose compared to skin tight. So should I do less decreases because of that? Or should I go back and add more even rounds between the decrease rounds to keep the sleeves looser?
    In summary, I have short arms and I’m trying to make the sleeves fit me!
    I hope my description is clear and understandable, and I hope that you are able to offer some advice about how to proceed.
    Thank you!

    • May 13, 2021 1:31 pm

      Hi Kelsey – That’s totally fine! Having your decreases end at the cuff will work, OR you can put one fewer round between decreases to make them a little faster. Both ways have worked just find for me in the past.

  9. maximoltebeere permalink
    April 11, 2021 7:31 pm

    Hi there! I am wondering about the number for the raglan increases, because I couldn’t find them anywhere. I am knitting the Flax Light in size M/L and am wondering how many times I should do the round 1 with 8 increases and round 2 with no increases. Where can I find this information in the pattern?

  10. maximoltebeere permalink
    April 11, 2021 7:24 pm

    Hi there! I am wondering about the number of raglan increases because I couldn’t find them. I am knitting the Flax Light pattern and just started my raglan increases. Can you please let me know where to find them? How many increases in total do I need for size M/L for the Flax Light pattern?

    • April 12, 2021 2:41 pm

      Hi! You can find them on the pattern PDF (it will say: work rounds 1-2 a total of xx times)

      • maximoltebeere permalink
        April 22, 2021 4:59 pm

        Thank you! I had zoomed in on the document on my phone without realizing that there were collums. Once the doc reloaded, I found the info I needed. Thanks again! It’s been pure joy knitting this pattern!

  11. natki252 permalink
    April 11, 2021 5:00 am

    Hello. I am making a Large size sweater. After the set up rounds I had 134 stitches (126 +8). I then worked rounds 1 & 2 20 times, increasing by 8 stitches each time = 214 stitches. But the pattern says I should have 294 stitches now. What am I misinterpreting please? Should I do rounds 1&2 10 more times (so a total of 30) to get me to 294 stitches? Thank you very much!

    • April 11, 2021 2:02 pm

      Hi! So, for the size large you will have 134 sts after the set-up rounds. If you are increasing 8 sts 20 times that is 160 sts increased for a total of 294. It sounds like maybe you are not increasing 8 sts on the increase rounds?

  12. Amato Renee permalink
    April 6, 2021 4:35 am

    What is the best way to make the increases after the neck rubbing without leaving holes? M1 left? M1 right? KFB?

  13. Emily permalink
    February 22, 2021 4:56 pm

    Hello, I just finished the yoke increase on the flax sweater and I ended with 1 stitch missing on the last section, part of the body. Do you think I should just leave it or add a stitch at the end?

  14. Sarah permalink
    February 20, 2021 5:26 pm

    I was gifted a sweater quantity of a DK weight yarn and I really want to try this sweater. Did a round gauge tube with the needles suggested in the pattern and am about to wash. Prewash, it’s so close to gauge. I’m hopeful it may work. The yarn store suggested that if I need to – go up a a size to enter it works. Thoughts? I don’t want to ruin this as it’s my first sweater. Thanks!!

  15. Talia permalink
    February 12, 2021 11:40 pm

    When you’re doing the yoke and raglan increases, is it done in 2 rounds? The first round doing the increases and the second round with no increases, just straight knit stitch (while maintaining the garter stitch in the center of the sleeves)?

    • February 14, 2021 11:41 pm

      Yes – the raglan increases through the yoke are worked with one increase round (+8 sts) and then one round worked even, without increasing.

  16. February 9, 2021 7:17 am

    Hello! I cast on for the S/M but started thinking about halfway through my yoke that I would like to make a M instead, if possible. Is there anything I can do at this point besides soldier on with the S/M or else rip out? Like, could I just do more increase rounds until I have 248 stitches instead of 236 or would that be a disaster? Thank you so much for this pattern. I can’t believe I’m knitting my first sweater!

    • February 10, 2021 2:06 pm

      Hi Sarah – definitely! Just throw in a few more increase rounds so you have approximately the desired stitch count for the M.

  17. Kelsey Binder permalink
    February 8, 2021 7:52 am

    I’m knitting this right now and went with option 2, I’m a bit concerned that it added a bit *too much* structure and its shaping out a bit more like a turtle neck. I should mention that rather than adding my collar at the very end I went ahead and cast on both needles initially and worked down for the yoke and up for the collar.

    Any advice? I’m unsure if I should pull it and make it shorter than 1.5″ or if perhaps doing the short rows will help out.

    • February 10, 2021 2:10 pm

      Hi Kelsey – If you’ve used a ‘magical cast on’ of some kind won’t add any structure at all (the structure comes from the ‘seam’ where you pick up and knit from the cast on, but if you’ve used a method that doesn’t have a cast on that won’t be the case).

  18. Eliza Spronk permalink
    February 8, 2021 7:22 am

    Hi there, first of all thank you for such a beautiful free pattern! I’m about to cast it on to knit one for my girlfriend, and I wondered if knitting the yoke in option 2 would make it possible to alter the neckline a little bit so it sits higher on the sides, creating more of a crewneck? Thank you!

    • February 10, 2021 2:11 pm

      Hi Eliza – Yep! Either working a cast on first and ribbing later, OR using a provisional cast on and unzipping it later will give you the flexibility to fuss with the neckline last.

  19. Mary permalink
    February 2, 2021 8:51 pm

    Hello, for a 6XL, once the garter stitch sleeve panel is established, should the rounds be worked as follows:
    1. Work Round 1-4 4 times, then work Round 1-2 18 times
    2. Work Round 1-2 22 times, then work Round 3-4 4 times

    • February 4, 2021 1:31 pm

      Hi – For the 6XL size you are going to work rounds 1-2 a total of 22 times and rounds 3-4 a total of 4 times

  20. Teide permalink
    January 25, 2021 8:37 pm

    Hello, I have a quick question about the sleeves. Is it possible to do the sleeves without knitting the garter stitch? If knitted in stockinette stitch, would that effect how they fit? I have never knit a sweater and want to try the light version of the Flax Sweater. Thank you!

  21. Jacy permalink
    January 13, 2021 9:45 am

    Hi, sorry if this has been asked before but I’ve got a question about the yoke.
    I’m knitting a size XXL with option 2 and I’ve repeated rows 1 and 2 24 times, but my yoke only measures 7.75″ instead of 9.5″. According to the pattern I should keep working rows until I reach 9.5″ but doesn’t that mean my stitch count will be off?
    I’ve got 344 stitches right now which is what the pattern says I should have, but if I keep doing increases I’ll obviously have more. Won’t that throw off the rest of the pattern? Won’t it end up being too big? Or am I supposed to just do more of row 2 and not do any increases? Thanks!

    • January 13, 2021 1:54 pm

      Hi Jacy – You want to keep working until your yoke measures 9.5″ but you won’t be doing any more increases, just knitting and keeping the garter panel in tact.

  22. Brittany Blackburn permalink
    December 16, 2020 12:59 pm

    I’ve made several sweaters for myself, but this is my first knit EVER for my husband and I’m a bit nervous about the fit. I’m making the flax light in size XXL and I split for sleeves and did a fit check. There seems to be some extra fabric and bunching where his chest and armpit meet. Any advice on how to fix this? I’m not sure if I should do less raglan increases, remove the added rounds of working even after the raglan increases, CO less stitches under the arm or a combination of any of the above? I’ve worked about 3” more of the body after the split and about 2.5” of the first sleeve in hopes that picking up under arm st would add more structure but that doesn’t seem to have resolved the issue. I’d be grateful for any guidance you can offer, and can send a pic of problematic area if that would be helpful?

  23. Amanda Boyce permalink
    December 5, 2020 10:56 am

    A question about gauge and sweater knitting! I am starting the Flax, which is my first ever sweater! I knit a gauge swatch, and it was the perfect size using the recommended needles. I’m using Patons Classic Wool Worsted, which I have read expands a lot when wet. So it seemed important to block my gauge swatch, and lo and behold, it expanded about an inch. It should be 18 sts and 22 rounds / 4” in stockinette stitch, which it basically was when dry. But blocked it is now 16 sts and 26 rounds in 4″.

    Question for a first-time sweater-knitter/gauge swatch blocker – If I want to make the sweater in the M/L measurements, does it make more sense to swatch again with smaller needles, or to use the recommended needles and knit the instruction for size M, assuming it will expand when blocked to my desired measurements?

    • December 8, 2020 6:10 am

      I suggest you swatch again using smaller needles, making a large swatch, and blocking it as you have done, before measuring gauge once more. It’s more likely that you’ll get the fit that you desire if you follow the pattern working at the gauge stated. Best luck with your first sweater! ~ Em

  24. Caroline permalink
    November 9, 2020 2:24 pm

    I finished my first one and it was so much easier than I thought it would be! Thank you for such a wonderful pattern and helpful tutorials. The answers to all of the questions in the comments are super helpful too!

  25. November 6, 2020 6:21 am

    Thanks for responding so quickly! I’m doing the 4 – 6 size and I understand that I need to purl the 13 stitches from the sleeves. I just can’t grasp what I do with the stitches in the increase (kfb). So then it’s a knit + purl?


    • November 6, 2020 9:51 am

      Hi – Just try to ignore whether it’s an increase or not, purl the central 13 sts of the sleeve and knit all other sts.

  26. November 4, 2020 3:13 pm

    Hi! Can you please help me with a question on the Raglan pullover? When doing round 2 “work as set” (after setting it up) do I knit or purl the in between stitch in the kfb? It looks like a purl but when I do it just doesn’t look ok! Thanks!

    • November 5, 2020 1:34 pm

      Hi – You want to purl the central stitches laid out in the set-up round. The number of purl stitches depends on which size you are knitting.

  27. Nancy Borchert permalink
    October 22, 2020 12:17 pm

    Where can I find the instructions for waist shaping to use for this pattern? I am a size larger in the hips than the bust and I know I will need a 43 inch bust and a 46 inch around the hips. Thanks. Love your simple Knits!

    • October 26, 2020 12:35 am

      This pattern doesn’t include waist shaping options.

      However, to add 3 inches, if your gauge is 4.5 sts per inch, means you’ll need to add 12-16 stitches.

      I’d suggest working a few increase rounds, spaced within the body, as you knit downward. Placing stitch markers at the half-way points below underarm stitches, you can work a round like this: [k1, m1, knit to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, SM] twice – this will increase 4 sts (two at each side of the body). If you work this increase round a total of 4 times, you’ll increase 16 sts, about what you’re looking for! if you knit a few body inches even, then work the increase every 2″ or so, you’ll gradually increase to the desired 46″.

  28. Tracey permalink
    October 21, 2020 7:57 pm

    Trying my first sweater and chose Flax. Just so I don’t screw up right away I want to confirm I did the right math for Size M/L for the yoke. I got 3.75. Do I round up to 4 or is it 3?

    • October 22, 2020 1:22 pm

      Hi Tracey – Congrats are starting your first sweater! I’m sorry I don’t know what math you are trying to do?

  29. Bridget permalink
    October 18, 2020 8:56 pm

    Hi! So, I’ve been working on this sweater off and on for like 2 years (I get distracted lol). Finished the body forever ago, and just finished the first sleeve. It all looks pretty good and fits. But now, I can remember exactly how to start the second sleeve. Its an adult medium size, and I know I used my 16′ circular needles on the first one. So, the sleeve is on waste yarn. How do I start? Which direction do I place the stitches on the needles so that I can knit across then pick up stitches? I’m confusing myself lol

    • October 19, 2020 11:45 am

      Hi Bridget – Since they are double pointed needles it isn’t critical which way you insert them. Just get the stitches onto the circular needle and then remove the waste yarn

  30. October 15, 2020 3:33 am

    wonderful blog of my day , well explained , wish this had been around me before

  31. October 11, 2020 4:07 pm

    After moving sleeve stitches to waste yarn (Flax Sweater), do I break the yarn before I cast on the new body stitches?


    • October 12, 2020 1:37 am

      No – keep the working yarn unbroken; this way you have a single round of stitches that combines back stitches, underarm (newly cast on), front, underarm (newly cast on), and again the back stitches.

  32. Darlene permalink
    September 29, 2020 11:03 am

    I am trying to work up the courage to knit my first sweater. Taking look at the pattern, I have the following question(s) re: Sleeve -> what does it mean when it says Work 5 rounds even, Work 6 inches even, Work even until sleeve measures?

    My second question is if I measure for a M/L but tend to like sweaters more roomy would the L be too big?

    • Darlene permalink
      September 29, 2020 11:54 am

      Sorry I just saw the meaning of work even in this blog post. Having said that, a reply to my size question would appreciated. Thanks!!

    • September 29, 2020 11:57 am

      Hi Darlene – Check out our post on choosing your size here, I think it will answer your questions on size choice!

  33. Jacquelyn Cressy permalink
    September 22, 2020 9:03 am

    I just started a Flax Light sweater, making size M adult. I have finished the collar section and quite pleased with how it looks, but I am very worried that it won’t go over my head. It doesn’t seem large enough even stretched out, especially when compared with the model’s photo where the neckline appears somewhat oval and not very tight to the neck.

    • September 23, 2020 9:45 am

      Hi Jacquelyn – I would put the sweater on waste yarn and try it on. If it is too tight you have a couple of options. The first is to try a looser cast on, the other is to cast on more sts and work fewer increases in that first increase round.

    • Gretchen Schumacher permalink
      January 24, 2021 5:19 pm

      What happened with yours? I have the same concern.

      • January 24, 2021 10:19 pm

        It’s important that the cast-on be loose enough to allow stretching of the neckline. If you have completed part of the yoke, you can try the first part of the sweater on (add in an extra needle so you don’t drop stitches), and double-check that you’ve made your neckline cast-on loose enough to go over your head. Once the whole sweater is knit, the weight of the fabric will open up the neckline somewhat beyond what will be obvious at this point. However, if it doesn’t go over your head you’ll need to begin over with a looser cast-on method, or casting on with larger needles and then switching immediately to smaller needles for working the ribbing.

  34. Caroline permalink
    September 14, 2020 5:19 pm

    Hi! Thank you for having the only free sweater pattern on the internet that is both attractive and an easily readable pattern lol. I have searched through all of the comments, and while I’ve learned a lot that will help as I work later parts of the pattern, I didn’t see my specific question anywhere. I’m hoping you can help!
    I am following the size 6-8. In the very first round of increases, immediately after the collar but before the raglan marker setup, the number of stitches to increase seems very off as listed. For the size 6-8 it says to increase 18 stitches in that round, but the next smaller size is a mere 8 stitch increase and the next larger size is only a 16 stitch increase. Even the XS has a smaller number of stitches increased in that round. I’m very confused as to why the difference and want to make sure it’s correct before I begin that round. Since no one else has asked this, I assume it is correct as written and I’m just not understanding how it works. But I’d rather ask to be safe. Thank you!

    • September 16, 2020 11:17 am

      Hi Caroline – Don’t worry, the pattern is correct. The numbers differ based on the number of raglan increases and the finished chest and upper arm measurements.

  35. Catherine Frost permalink
    September 6, 2020 3:41 pm

    I am knitting the sleeves for the Flax sweater and am wondering at the start of the decreases, is that one round with decreases and the next round knit/purl without dec? Every other rnd had a dec or each rnd had dec?

    • September 7, 2020 3:38 am

      It’s one round with a decrease, then five rounds simply knit (no decreases). So the decrease round happens every 6th round, until you have decreased to the correct cuff stitch count.

  36. September 4, 2020 10:53 pm

    Nah, it shouldn’t matter if it’s a stitch or two off, as long as it’s within the underarm stitches :)

  37. Linelle permalink
    August 27, 2020 10:47 pm

    I am working on the sleeves for size 1-2 years. I transferred the stitches to DPNs as suggested, 11 knit on 1, 12 garter on 2, 11 knit on 3. I have a marker showing the first panel of 11. My question is where do I do the decreases when the time comes? Do I start out “k1, k2 tog, k8, k12 (garter panel), k8, ssk, k1? Great pattern and awesome tutorial!

    • August 27, 2020 10:52 pm

      I think you have it right – you work the k1, k2tog decrease on the first needle, then work across the garter on the second needle, and then on the third needle you work to the last 3, then work ssk, k1. Thus the decreases occur at the underarm position. Best luck!

  38. Lori Keay permalink
    August 23, 2020 8:54 am

    I’m a novice knitter have only made facecloths and socks, but have a new grandstand I want to make him a sweater for Christmas. I’m knitting the 6-12 month size and have been working on round 1&2. I just finished 8 rounds and am not sure if I treat rounds 1&2 as a unit, in which case I’m ready to move on to non increasing rounds or if I need to do each round individually 8 times for a total of 16 rounds. Thx

    • August 24, 2020 11:42 am

      Hi Lori – You are working rounds 1-2 a total of 8 times, so that would be 16 rounds

  39. Sue permalink
    August 22, 2020 3:00 pm

    Is there any ease built into this pattern? My daughter typically wears an adult small but does not like things to be clingy tight. If there is no ease I would need to move up a pattern size.

    • August 22, 2020 3:31 pm

      Hi Sue – The measurements listed in the pattern are the finished measurements.

      • Sue permalink
        August 24, 2020 6:00 am

        Thank you. That helps a lot.

  40. Lorena Shipp permalink
    August 8, 2020 12:30 pm

    Hello! Would like a tip: How are you keeping track of when to knit/purl the garter section of the sleeve? When I walk away/go to bed/work etc. come back and begin working again and can’t figure out if it’s time to knit or purl for the garter stitch row. Love to hear how you guys keep track. Thank you!

    • August 10, 2020 12:16 pm

      Hi Lorena – I can see where the garter is at a glance, but if you are having trouble you can always add extra markers. I recommend making those markers a different colour so you know which ones are for the raglan increases and which ones are for the garter stitch.

  41. Anna permalink
    July 10, 2020 7:47 pm

    I’d like some advice if possible. I’ve knitted most of the body so far. My row gauge was off by a lot – I get a lot more rows in 4″ than the gauge for this pattern. As a result, after I finished the increases for the yoke, I knit a lot more rows even before separating for the sleeves (about 45 rows, instead of the roughly 8 rows in the pattern). The yoke also measured more than 8inches by then, but it seemed necessary to make the arm holes low enough. (The neckline is higher than in the photos, so I think that’s why the yoke was much longer for me). I just tried it on, and the arm holes are at a good position and the fit is good. But the diagonal lines from the increases end quite high up, and the fabric sticks up/ is bumpy on the first few rows just below those increases. I think that’s because I did so many rows after the increases, before separating for the sleeves. Does this sound like the reason? Do you think the solution would be to restart the sweater, and repeat the increases for lots more rows? So the diagonal line from the increases would continue down, almost to the armpits? (I can send a photo if it would help)
    Thanks a lot for any feedback! And thanks for the tutorial.

    • July 12, 2020 10:41 pm

      Hello! When there are a lot more even rounds after the increase rounds, you can get a bumpy effect, like you’ve described. Often this is hidden in the underarm, and smoothed out a bit by blocking and wearing, but this may not be enough in the case of your yoke. With a vastly different round gauge (many more rounds in 4″ than expected), you might want to increase only every 3rd or 4th round, as you’ve suggested. If you feel like you won’t wear the sweater without changing it, now is the moment to make a change – before you’ve knit body and sleeves! Hope this helps ~ Emily

      • Anna permalink
        August 10, 2020 8:28 pm

        Thanks for the advice Emily.
        I restarted the sweater and did the increases every 4 rows instead of every 2, and it looks much better.

  42. Judy Barnes permalink
    July 5, 2020 1:12 pm

    Help! I am confused about circular needle sizes and hope you can help. I just started knitting Flax in size M/L and have size 6 and 8 needles in 16″ and 32.” I have knitted the ribbing for the yoke with a size 6, 16″ needle. Then it says “Change to larger needles.” I assumed this meant “Change to size 8, 32: needles. But the 32″ needles feel wrong and stretch out the stitches too much. I assume I should transfer my stitches to the size 8, 16″ needles. But I don’t see anywhere in the pattern where it then says to switch to the 32” size 8 needles for the main body section. What am I doing wrong?
    Thanks for this blog and the great tutorial!

    • July 6, 2020 10:17 am

      Hi Judy – When the pattern refers to needle size, it’s the needle size, not the length. So you want to change to a size 8 16″ after the collar. When your stitches get tooooo squishy, you will want to change to the longer needle. I personally like to let my stitches get very squishy before I move to a longer needle, but other knitters like their stitches more spread out.

      • Judy Barnes permalink
        July 6, 2020 6:28 pm

        Ah, okay Alexa. That makes sense! – I guess by “squishy” you mean jammed together? I’ll try that. Thanks for the help–a
        m looking forward to moving on to the next phase.

      • Maegan permalink
        September 10, 2021 4:49 pm

        Hi! I’m also wondering about when to change needles in this sweater. I’m not sure where I would be using the size 6 32″ needle in the pattern at all? Are we just to assume that the main part of the sweater is done on the 8 32″? Thank you!

      • September 13, 2021 5:12 am

        Hi Maegan – The size 6 32″ long circular will be used to knit the hem ribbing.

    • Sarah Jones permalink
      August 11, 2020 3:26 pm

      You can also use the magic loop method. That way you could use the 32’ cord to knit all the way through if you wanted.

  43. Wendy permalink
    July 3, 2020 12:53 pm

    Greetings from Vancouver Island! I love this website and am deep into my very first sweater. The tutorials here have been very helpful and I am having much success. There is a BUT, though lol
    I have gotten through all the increase rows on the yoke and am about to start to work even BUT I my stitch count is off by 2. I have the correct number on each of the sleeve portions (58 per side) but I have 90 stitches in each of the front and back sections instead of 89. I really really (REALLY lol) don’t want to rip it out and start over for just 2 stitches. Am I safe to continue? Will it get mucked up when I get to the CO stitches under the arm? Am I stressing too much??? Your help would be gratefully accepted😊

    • July 6, 2020 9:43 am

      Hi Wendy – Personally, I’m not a super fussy knitter. Your body will be just shy of 1/2 inch bigger if you do nothing and leave it as it is. I would DEFINITELY just leave it!

  44. Mary permalink
    July 2, 2020 3:44 pm

    Hi again:)
    I am just about to start my sleeves and am wondering if you use the short tips with the 16inch circulars?

    • July 6, 2020 9:42 am

      Hi Mary – In order to have the needle be 16″ tip to tip I think you need the short tips.

  45. Mary Flynn permalink
    June 28, 2020 10:34 am

    Hi I am loving trying this pattern. I am knitting the Large for my young adult daughter – 5’ 11”.
    She would like a tighter waist. Do you think I could decrease at the ribbing to make it snugger and would it still fall nicely?

    • June 28, 2020 6:50 pm

      Hi Mary – A tighter ribbing might give it a little bit of a balloon-ish shape (not that dramatic). I would recommend doing some paired decreases a few inches before the bottom (so 2 increases at each underarm)

      • Mary permalink
        June 29, 2020 4:23 am

        Thank you so much Alexa!
        I am already thinking about my next project:):)

  46. Lily permalink
    June 27, 2020 3:07 pm

    I just posted about the marker setup round. I understand now. Yes you do work the marker set up round! Thank you!

  47. Lily permalink
    June 27, 2020 2:49 pm

    Hello, i am making this sweater in the 6-12 month size. I’m having difficultly with a particular part. This is my third time starting and I realize I still don’t understand.

    is the “marker setup” a round of working stitches? After you knit increasing four stitches- Do physically purl 11 stitches , PLACE MARKER, Knit 22 stitches, PLACE MARKER, Purl 11 stitches, PLACE MARKER, knit 22 stitches, PLACE MARKER.

    OR do you just place the Markers with working any stitches?

    The problem is I did the former, twice, working the stitches as I added the markers. But then if I setup round one – It seems I’m not lined up with the purl stitches from the row above (the marker set up row I have been working). But I don’t understand why it would say purl and knit a row (the marker set up row) if I’m not supposed to actually work those stitches ? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

  48. Anna permalink
    June 14, 2020 8:48 am

    I have a question about finishing the yoke; it says knit until the yoke “measures 5 (5, 5.5, … etc) inches deep. Measure from cast on.” – which part of the yoke should you be measuring? I have noticed that if I measure the front panel (e.g. right where the sternum would be), it is longer than if I measure my garter panel (e.g. shoulder). Would you mind clarifying for me which section we should be measuring from?

  49. Vicki Tsongas Peters permalink
    June 6, 2020 8:50 am

    I am so happy you have all this helpful info and pictures.
    I want to knit this sweater again but, this time as a cardigan.
    Any help or idea how to do it?

  50. Anna permalink
    June 1, 2020 8:11 pm

    I just noticed in the pdf pattern there are descriptions for “Round 1” and “Round 2” that follow, that are similar to the setup rounds, and we should do that 7+ (depending on size) times. I understand now! I missed that because it wasn’t in this page, but checking the pdf clarified.

  51. yolanda permalink
    May 15, 2020 10:16 am

    Hi I’m still learning how to read patterns I think I got some of the stitches and Technics is there’s a video tutorial that can guide beginners into starting and finishing the sweater. I would really appreciate it thank you and much knitting

  52. Jacque Dooley permalink
    May 12, 2020 4:42 pm

    Now I am ready to Knit my first sweater!! I’m very excited.

  53. Kristy Stokes permalink
    May 8, 2020 5:42 pm

    Hi! I would love to start this as my first knitted sweater. I don’t have any dpn. Can this be completed in an adult size with just circular needles?

    • May 11, 2020 12:53 pm

      Hi Kristy – You will likely need DPN’s for the sleeve cuffs no matter what, but you can also try the Magic Loop method, using a long circular for a small circumference

    • Sam permalink
      August 5, 2020 7:38 pm

      This tutorial has been SO helpful! Thank you!

      Onto blocking now… First timer and wondering what surface you would recommend lying the sweater on to dry?

  54. dragongiggles permalink
    May 6, 2020 5:09 am

    I’m attempting a sweater for the first time and am aiming for the 2-4yr size. I can’t work out how to join the 74co stitches as the 16” needles won’t reach. Do I need to use magic loop or am I simply casting on too tightly?
    Thank you

    • May 6, 2020 11:43 am

      Hi – I think the cast on will be too tight to go over the intended’s head if it won’t reach around the 16″ needle. So, you can either cast on more sts and skip those increases in the initial increase round, or cast on more loosely. I would personally aim for the looser cast on, because it’s a good future skill.

      • dragongiggles permalink
        May 6, 2020 12:35 pm

        Thank you 😊
        I have persevered and managed a loose enough cast on. I’m so new to knitting this in itself felt like an achievement! Thank you so much for the awesome patterns and the advice. Abbi

  55. shirleyhein permalink
    May 2, 2020 11:51 am

    LOVING the Flax pattern! I am making a 6-8 for a grandson.
    I am working on the first sleeve and wonder where to measure the sleeve (10″) before beginning the decreases and final ribbing.

  56. Alice lino permalink
    April 30, 2020 9:20 am

    Maravilhoso,queria a receita em português!

  57. Erin permalink
    April 25, 2020 8:43 am

    Would you mind specifying which length of circular needle you use for the collar in the flax sweater? I’m knitting the adult S/M. The pattern says to use your smaller needle, but I wasn’t sure if that meant the shorter length (16in) as well. And then you’d switch to the 32in for the larger needle in the body of the sweater?

    Thanks so much!

    • April 25, 2020 2:36 pm

      Hi Erin – It’s the 16″ length. I think you would quickly find the 32″ size toooooo long for so few stitches.

      • Maria Furey permalink
        January 16, 2021 7:49 pm

        hello and first off thank you for what you do! this is my first sweater, you were recommended by my local knit shop for having wonderful patterns. I’m starting with option 2 and also agree for a beginner sweater knitter I wasn’t sure if smaller/larger meant the 5mm and/or 32′ cord. I started with the 5mm on long cord and realized late I likely should have used the 16″ cable? I’m knitting the M/L and there isn’t enough cord for magic loop

      • January 17, 2021 10:08 pm

        Hi Maria – You want to start out with a short circular when there are not as many sts.

  58. Rachel permalink
    March 30, 2020 10:09 am

    Hello! I’m ready to Bind Off, but getting caught up on instructions of : For this sweater it will be: k1, p1, pass st over, k1, pass st over, p1, pass st over, etc. = does this mean i knit the stitch i passed over? cause i’m not getting this. any help would be greatly appreciated, i’m sure i’m just not trusting my self

    • March 30, 2020 1:36 pm

      Hi Rachel – You have it just right, k1, p1, pass st over, k1, pass st over, p1, pass st over, etc

  59. Brenda permalink
    March 30, 2020 6:57 am

    How many stitches of the sleeve compose the “garter panel”. I am starting over because in my first attempt I made entire sleeve garter stitches.
    Thanks, Brenda

    • March 30, 2020 1:35 pm

      Hi Brenda – it depends which size you are making, there is a note in the pattern to ‘keep the center xx sts in garter stitch’ that’s the number you are looking for.

      • Brenda B Davis permalink
        March 31, 2020 12:24 pm

        Yes, I had already discovered the answer to my question by simply reading the pattern more carefully. Thanks for your patience and quick response. You make it possible for us beginners to actually knit a sweater.

      • Tricia Long McKeon permalink
        April 12, 2020 5:28 am

        After reading this I realized that I did exactly what Brenda did, garter stitch for the whole sleeve while making the yoke. I’m just about to separate the body and sleeves. I can’t imagine starting over. Would the fix here be to just do garter stitch for all of the sleeves once I get to them?

      • April 14, 2020 10:58 am

        Hi Tricia – I’d say lean in and make it a feature! A whole sleeve in garter will look just fine.

  60. Soosan permalink
    March 28, 2020 3:08 pm

    Can you please explain this to me:Continue to work the centre 10 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14,
    15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 17) sts on the sleeves
    in garter stitch, and the remainder of the pullover in
    stockinette (you may find it helpful to place extra markers
    on each side of the garter panel).
    Round 1: [kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglan marker,
    kfb, k1] 4 times [8 sts inc – 2 per section]
    Round 2: work as set; [knit to garter panel, purl
    garter panel] twice, knit to end of round.
    I don’t quite understand this.
    thank you

    • March 28, 2020 8:26 pm

      Hi Soosan – Sure! I need to know a little bit more about which part is tripping you up. It’s a little easier to do pattern support via email, can you drop us a line at

  61. March 27, 2020 10:45 pm

    Wonderful pattern! I can’t wait to get started. One question though, I would need to make a medium/large to match my bust, but the sleeves would be too small if the measurements are for arm circumference (I have large upper arms), any suggestions on what to do to keep from making a 3XL sweater that will swallow me whole?

    • March 28, 2020 8:25 pm

      Hi – You can absolutely customize for a larger upper arm measurement! Once you have completed the number of increases for the ML size there are a few rounds without any increases. On those rounds you will increase on the sleeves only. Each repeat increases by 2 sts on the sleeves, so you gain approximately 1 inch at the upper arm for every 2 increases.

  62. Linda Natanagara permalink
    March 21, 2020 7:08 pm

    Hi Alexa, Like many of us right now, being home and without work gives me a lot of time to knit. I am making my way through Flax and it’s been a joy to knit. Thank you for the clear instructions. Is there a short sleeve version of Flax anywhere? I”m not experienced enough to try it on my own. Thank you and I hope you are well!

    • March 22, 2020 10:48 am

      Hi Linda

      For a short sleeve Flax you just want to knit as the sleeve states until you get 1.5″ from your desired length, then work 1.5″ of ribbing. If you want them more like 3/4 length you want to start the decreases as the pattern states, you won’t be able to work all of them, but still finish 1.5″ from the desired length.

      • Linda M Natanagara permalink
        March 28, 2020 5:36 pm

        So kind of your to reply! Just starting on the sleeves tonight. Thank you for the info.

  63. Nicola permalink
    March 11, 2020 11:20 am

    I love this pattern and have knit it several times. But now I’m going to use an alpaca, so wondering if leaving out the garter sleeve panel is going to change the sleeve much?
    garter really doesn’t show itself off in alpaca!

    • March 18, 2020 9:07 pm

      Hi Nicola – Nope! I’ve made it a few times without the garter and it’s juuuuust fine

  64. Lidia Borkes permalink
    March 9, 2020 9:33 am

    Hi Thanks for the great pattern. I’m sure this question has been asked already I just can’t find it . I am knitting the Large adult size Flax pattern and have done all my increases and have the correct stitches but not sure how to measure to get 10.5 inches . When I measure vertical I get 8.5 inches and diagonal over increases 9.5 … Help not sure what to do..
    Thanks for your help

    • March 10, 2020 4:08 pm

      Hi Lidia – I measure down the center front

    • larakate6987 permalink
      March 15, 2020 8:35 am

      I’m having the same problem with my vertical length quite short! Any answers on why?

      • March 18, 2020 9:09 pm

        Hi – It just depends on the yarn you are using and your style of knitting, it sounds like your round gauge is less than we have in the pattern. It’s not a problem for the Flax, although you might need a little more yarn, as you will need more rounds.

  65. Ami permalink
    March 8, 2020 5:21 am

    Very easy way guidance

  66. February 28, 2020 5:22 pm

    Sorry if this pops up twice: I confuse myself!! I have 16 garter stitches for the stripe down the sleeve. When I begin the raglan increase round I kfb. Is that a kfb in the first of the 16? Then do I k to 2 before marker and kfb k 2 in the last 2 garter stitches? Thanks

    • March 2, 2020 1:03 pm

      Hi Maureen – Don’t worry about the garter panel for that round. Just work the instructions. Then on the next round you will have 1 stockinette stitch before the garter panel and 1 stockinette stitch after.

  67. Patricia permalink
    February 15, 2020 6:39 am

    Beautifully clear directions

  68. Penny permalink
    February 9, 2020 2:39 pm

    I am knitting the Flax Light sweater in 4yrs-6yrs and coming to the end of my yoke. When do I change from my 16″ needles to 24″ length?

    Thanks for all your support and beautiful patterns,

    • February 10, 2020 12:24 pm

      Hi Penny – It isn’t really critical exactly when, I change when my sts get too squishy on my 16″ needle. Some knitters prefer to change them over earlier and some later. I like my sts good and squishy before I switch.

  69. Luis permalink
    January 31, 2020 2:48 am

    Before I move the sleeves onto waste yarn is it alright to “try on” the sweater like other raglans to make sure it fits and keep increasing if it doesn’t or should I just follow the numbers and measurements in the pattern?

    • February 4, 2020 12:27 pm

      Trying on is always recommended, that’s the main perk of a top down sweater!

  70. Free permalink
    January 29, 2020 2:01 am

    Do you hold 2 strands of #1 yarn together in the Flax Light pattern? There are 2 colors listed but I didn’t see a note stating 2 stands held together.

    • February 4, 2020 12:28 pm

      Hi – Nope, just one strand at a time. The 2 colours are referencing the child and adult samples

  71. Free permalink
    January 28, 2020 8:53 pm

    For flax light, are you using 2 strands of yarn together? The pattern lists 2 colors of yarn but does not say hold 2 strands together.

  72. Elizabeth Horn permalink
    January 10, 2020 10:15 pm

    Hi. First attempt at sweater. I am uncertain when instructions say to use “larger” needle, does that mean the #8 thicker needle? Or the longer needle? I can’t find which length needle to use when.
    Thank You.

    • January 13, 2020 2:05 pm

      Hi Elizabeth – Larger needle refers to the thicker needle. If you have gauge using the suggested needles in Flax that would be the #8.

      • Danielle Louise permalink
        March 31, 2020 12:33 pm

        I had the same question! If “change to the larger needles” means switch to the larger thickness, how do I know when to switch to the longer 32″ needles?

      • March 31, 2020 2:00 pm

        Hi Danielle – It’s not critical when you switch to a longer needle, just when you feel like there are too many sts on the needle you are using, switch to a longer one.

  73. Anne-Marie Fabregaj permalink
    January 6, 2020 7:22 am

    Coucou, après avoir découvert la technique tricoter 2 chaussettes en même temps sur 1 aiguille circulaire plus de problème pour tricoter 2 manches identiques en même temps sur 1
    aiguille circulaire essayez vous ne pourrez plus vous en passer merci pour le modèle

    • Maureen Fay Topper permalink
      January 10, 2020 8:19 am

      Bonne idée – tricoter 2 manches en même temps sur 1 aiguille circulaire ! Je n’y avais jamais pensé. Je vais l’essayer – merci!

  74. Karen Madlon permalink
    January 4, 2020 9:50 am

    Hi! I’m just ready to start decreasing on the sleeves… do I decrease on the garter panel? Or just the stocking net portions.
    Also thank you soo much for making such lovely patterns to learn on available free.

    • January 6, 2020 12:26 pm

      Hi Karen – the decreases only come at the beginning and end of the round, so no decreasing in the garter panel.

  75. Danielle permalink
    January 3, 2020 2:45 pm

    Hello! I’m working my way through a mini Flax for my 2 year old and loving it. I’ve just completed the yoke, and I need see that I need to work 8 more rounds even: does this mean eight times total (4 times knitting all the way around and 4 times where I purl the garter panel) or 8 of each? I’m new to knitting, so I don’t know what constitutes a “round.” Thanks for your help!

    • January 6, 2020 12:27 pm

      Hi Danielle – it would be 8 rounds total, so 4 plain and 4 with a purled garter panel.

  76. Alison permalink
    December 26, 2019 8:43 am

    Hi there, can I use DPN’s for beginning the yoke? I got 89 stitches on my 16 in circulars to begin for flax light, and they just won’t reach around.

    • December 28, 2019 4:12 pm

      Hi Alison – you CAN use DPNs but you might want to make sure your cast on isn’t too tight, you want to make sure it goes over the head .

  77. Monica S permalink
    December 15, 2019 2:57 pm

    Question, do i need special IC needles or just Normal IC needles for the sizes, I’m using knitters pride brand. from the pictures, it looks like normal IC is used. thanks and excited to start this.

  78. Katherine Potocki-Shook permalink
    November 19, 2019 7:30 pm

    Hi there,
    I’m looking to make the flax light sweater. After looking through the pattern I don’t see a difference between the front and back (height around the neck). If I added a few short rows in to give the back some height would that work or does the pattern create a raised back?

    • November 19, 2019 8:43 pm

      Hi Katherine – You bet, you can definitely add in some short rows to raise the back neck. We wanted to keep the pattern as simple as possible for beginners, but a few short rows will be just fine.

  79. Pattie Cowan permalink
    November 7, 2019 7:48 am

    Hi! I am almost done with 2 Flax Sweaters! I jumped to start another after I finished one sleeve on the first. 😬. The second I am hoping to make with short sleeves. Should I just start the decrease part right away? Should I do fewer “even” rounds in between the decreases? Someone told me if I don’t decrease correctly, I’ll lend up with butterfly sleeves. (Of course, she had no other advice for me than that!) Thanks for an awesome pattern that even a novice like me can follow!

    • November 8, 2019 10:50 am

      Hi Pattie – For short sleeves you can skip the sleeve decreases altogether, or if you are going for more of a 3/4 length just do fewer decreases and end the sleeve at the desired length. Your cuff number will be bigger than the pattern, but arms tend to be bigger at those points.

      • Pattie Cowan permalink
        November 8, 2019 3:31 pm

        Thank you so much! I’m so excited to do this. And I’ll be off the dreaded “sleeve island” much sooner!

  80. Ruth Ward permalink
    November 5, 2019 6:15 pm

    On the Flax pullover, when I join for working in the round on the sleeve, how do I do this? Do I just keep knitting after picking up the 8 stitches, or do I do a join as in a cast on row? Thanks!

  81. October 28, 2019 12:22 pm

    How do I measure the yoke diagonally or vertically? It’s all new to me as I’ve never knitted a sweater before.

  82. Kristin Ritchie permalink
    October 25, 2019 10:18 am

    Ok. So I’m loving your patterns. They seem easy to read.
    I am planning to make the Flax sweater. I’ve made a swatch. The first one was with the larger needles and came out at 19.5 stitches and 26 rows for 4 inches on 5mm needles.
    The next swatch I knitted was 16 stitches and 25 rows on 5.5mm needles. The gauge that is asked for is 18stitches and 22 rows for 4 inches square. How would you recommend me to proceed?

    • October 29, 2019 3:17 pm

      Hi Kristin – Hmm, that’s quite a big difference for only 1 needle size. Which fabric do you prefer, the 19.5 or the 16?

      • Kristin Ritchie permalink
        October 30, 2019 12:27 pm

        They are both fine. Maybe the 19.5 sts on the 5mm..
        It’s all messing with my head. My chest measurement is 35 ins. I measured a sweater I like and it’s 37ins. So how should I proceed?

      • November 25, 2019 12:18 pm

        Hi Kristin – Sorry, I’m having trouble following the plot in the comments. Would you mind emailing us at ? We can get you all sorted.

  83. October 25, 2019 3:40 am

    Hi, I’m doing my first ever sweater (flax). I’ve just started on the sleeves and they are coming out as garter where they should be stockinette. I’m knitting on circulars. Is it because when I put the sleeves back on the needles I went the wrong way?
    Thank you

    • October 29, 2019 3:12 pm

      Hi – When working in the round you want to knit every round in order to create stockinette. Is it possible you are knitting them inside out?

  84. Sasha permalink
    October 24, 2019 9:10 am

    Hi! I’m knitting Flax light sweater in size 1-2 and I have this really annoying (because it made me reknit for 3 times) problem: I keep lacking 1 stitch in every sleeve. I think it’s because in the beginning we “stole” 1 stitch from the garter panel to make the raglan stitch. so every time i end up with, for example, raglan stitch, 8 stitches in stockinette, 18 garter stitches, 7 stitches in stockinette and raglan stitch. I do not miss increases but every time it’s the same – 1 stitch is missing.
    Thank you!

    • October 24, 2019 2:59 pm

      Hi Sasha – Hmm, that’s so strange. The central garter stitches should remain the same from the beginning, regardless of where the increases happen

  85. Verity permalink
    October 16, 2019 7:01 am

    Hi, I’m knitting the Flax pullover and loving it! Thank you for a lovely pattern for first timers.

    I’m working the sleeves on DPNs and I noticed that in order to maintain the stitch pattern I had to switch and purl my knit stitches that I’d been only knitting on circulars. What have I done wrong?

    Thank you!

    • October 16, 2019 9:28 am

      Hi Verity – It sounds like maybe something has gone wrong and you are knitting in the wrong direction?

  86. Jennifer Pierce permalink
    October 13, 2019 6:08 pm

    Thanks so much for this great pattern. I have knit for years but always shawls, scares and hats. Gauge has always been an issue for me. I did the gauge in the round (after you tubing) and hopefully it works! I’m done with the yolk and so far it looks really good! Of note, I am using the Cascade 220 Superwash and it seems to be knitting up very nicely.

  87. Erin V permalink
    September 26, 2019 1:39 pm

    I’ve nearly completed the first sleeve on my Flax sweater (size 2-4). I have 33 sts on my DPNs, and am about to do the step ‘Decrease for ribbing’. The instructions say to “K1, k2tog (1) time, knit to end”. If I understand correctly, this should decrease my stitches by one st, leaving me with 32 sts on my DPNs yet the instructions say I should have 30 sts for size 2-4. Am I misunderstanding something? Thank you

    • September 26, 2019 4:38 pm

      Hi Erin – the instructions say 32, I think maybe you are looking at the wrong size?

  88. September 12, 2019 1:18 pm

    Sorry I posted twice. I didn’t think my first question had posted.

  89. September 12, 2019 1:13 pm

    I’m knitting an adult size M. What length circular needles do you recommend starting with? I used the 32″ but they are so long I can hardly work with it and when I joined in the round I had a stretching yarn between my two rounds because I was pulling extra length of cord out of the way. I’m assuming I’ll need 32″ eventually for the body but it’s too much at the beginning. The 16″ that the pattern calls for I was guessing was for the sleeves? What should I do to start?

  90. August 10, 2019 10:57 pm

    Awesome. Love this pattern

  91. Sue permalink
    July 29, 2019 10:00 am

    hopefully a quick question. I’m knitting the flax light size XL. MARKER SETUP: so I should
    Purl 20, PM, knit 67, PM, knit 67, PM. This is according to your pattern. So please, what am I missing? Thank you for your help. Sue

    • August 1, 2019 11:27 pm

      You’ll work the whole set in square brackets: [p20, PM, k67, PM] twice – so it’s p20, PM, k67, PM, p20, PM, k67, PM

    • Sue permalink
      August 3, 2019 5:35 pm

      Problem #2 , again I’M DOING FLAX LIGHT XL:
      After marker set-up. The set-up round 1, was great. Round 2, was great. Work rounds for 29 times. I should have 414sts., BUT I only got 294sts. I’m 120 sts short HELP PLEASE 🤨

    • Sue permalink
      August 4, 2019 12:20 pm

      OMG !!!!! A light bulb just came on and I figured out my own problem with being short 120 stitches. Geezzzz I have to knit an additional 29 rows to get to 414sts. Wanted to tell you. I so happy I figured it out 😃

  92. Isa Tomiate permalink
    July 28, 2019 4:17 am

    Achei lindo o modelo da blusa
    Poderia me enviar a receita em português, pois eu faria uma igual
    Fico no aguardo


    • August 1, 2019 11:29 pm

      Hi! We don’t currently translate our patterns, because we’re no able to offer pattern support in languages other than English. Sorry!

  93. Connie Stanley permalink
    July 9, 2019 12:01 pm

    I don’t know what the backwards loop stitch is…could you please explain

  94. Erin V permalink
    May 28, 2019 4:09 pm

    I am still confused about how to begin the sleeves. Do I need to pick-up the additional cast-on stitches under the arms by drawing a loop through, or do I just knit into those stitches?

  95. Joanne Kusiak permalink
    May 26, 2019 11:02 am

    Hi. I’m working on the Flax sweater (my first attempt at a sweater) and I am boggled by an annoying problem at the very beginning. After completing the ribbing, switching to bigger needles, and doing the increases, I end up with a hole at the BOR. I can’t figure out why. I’m not doing the increase at that spot. Why is there an obvious hole? Thank you so much for your help. The tutorials are very helpful.

    • May 29, 2019 3:45 pm

      Hi Joanne – I’m not sure why you are getting a hole, but it sounds like something that can be solved when you weave in the ends!

  96. Angelina permalink
    May 21, 2019 10:20 am

    Hi, a few questions!

    1. Are DPNs necessary or are we able to use the Magic Loop method for anything that calls for DPNs?
    2. For the sizes S-4XL, the pattern calls for 16″ and 32″ circulars for both the #2 and #5 needles. If I just use 32″ circulars, would that be OK?

    • May 21, 2019 12:46 pm

      Hi Angelina – Magic Loop is great! You can use it anywhere DPNs are called for. You can magic loop the whole thing if you prefer, then you just need 32″ needles (although I personally prefer a 40″ needle for magic loop)

  97. Rita permalink
    May 19, 2019 4:28 am

    What do you mean by positive ease. As in : Jen is wearing a size s/m with 1” positive ease. Thanks

    • May 21, 2019 12:44 pm

      Hi Rita – it means the sweater’s finished measurement is 1″ bigger than Jen’s bust measurement.

  98. Janine permalink
    May 15, 2019 7:20 pm

    What does “Work as set” mean?

    • May 16, 2019 12:26 pm

      Hi Janine – it just means you are keeping your garter panel as set (purling those sts) and knitting the rest, no increases

  99. Wren permalink
    April 29, 2019 11:04 pm

    Where do I pick up for the sleeves? As I understand, I knit the stitches on hold first, and pick up underarm stitches last. Is this correct?


    • May 3, 2019 12:51 am

      Hi Wren – The instructions are to put the sts back on the needles, but not to knit them. You are picking up at the underarm first.

      • Ann permalink
        October 5, 2019 8:26 am

        I’m really confused by this because the pattern says to put the stitiches back on the needles and then knit across these stitches, THEN pick up the underarm stitches

      • October 6, 2019 8:42 pm

        Hi Ann – sorry for the confusion, either way will work though!

  100. Dee permalink
    April 22, 2019 2:19 am

    I have just finished the body and binded off in rib. I’m now ready to start the sleeves that are on waste yarn… except I dont know how to or where to reattach my working yarn?
    As when I separated the sleeves and body I continued down the body with my working yarn then binded off?

    • April 25, 2019 12:46 pm

      Hi Dee – you are going to join new yarn when you pick up that first stitch at the underarm. Tip: Leave a longish tail for sewing up any gaps you might have at the underarm later.

  101. Sharon Barker permalink
    April 13, 2019 10:58 am

    Good morning, I have just finished the marker set up. As per the instructions at “the beginning of the round” I purled 15, knitted 39, purled 15 and then knitted 39. This completed the round or at least that’s what I thought. My start of round is off for the next set up round which says kfb, knit to 2 stitches before raglan marker, kfb, k1 4 times ( those stitches at the BOR(if I look at the diagram) should be the back 39 stitches then the 15 centre sleeve stitches then another 39 stitches for the front and then ending with the other 15 centre sleeve stitches. My BOR is off. What did I do wrong?

  102. Sarah permalink
    April 8, 2019 7:49 am

    Hello! Started this sweater recently and am running into some confusion as to when the second pair of needles in each size are introduced. I am on the step of placing my first markers (have done ribbing and have swapped to larger needles and increased my # if stitches) as of right now I’m still working in the round on my larger needles. Would this be a good time to begin working back and forth on both sets of needles? If so, do I do the split midway though the garter pattern on the sleeves? Sorry if this doesn’t make much sense!

    • April 8, 2019 1:03 pm

      I’m not sure what you mean by the ‘second pair of needles’. If you’ve completed ribbing, and swapped to larger needles, you can just follow the pattern around on those larger needles, until you find the number of sts on the needles uncomfortable, at which point you can change to a circular needle with the same needle size (ie. 5.0mm) but a longer cord, so it’s more comfortable to fit all the stitches on.

      • Sarah permalink
        April 8, 2019 3:57 pm

        Thank you!! I was interpreting the wording in the materials section as needing two of each size. Then there were some comments here stating you *could* work entirely in the round on one pair but that would require 40inch rounds. So I interpreted that as otherwise you’re working this back and forth on two sets. Thank you!

  103. Steffani Kruger permalink
    April 7, 2019 11:46 am

    Love the pattern but just feel that stich count/breakdown at each stage would be great, especially when knitting Top/Down
    for the first time.

  104. Sandye permalink
    March 29, 2019 8:37 pm

    I am making the Flax sweater & have just put the sleeve stitches on the waste yarn plus the 8 cast on stitches. My question concerns what appears to be a major gap to try to close when starting to knit on the body. Am I just over thinking this? I can’t seem to pull the stitches in close enough to begin knitting in the round again.

    • March 30, 2019 1:47 pm

      The 8 cast on stitches don’t go on the waste yarn, is that what’s tripping you up?

  105. Mary permalink
    March 21, 2019 6:21 pm

    How do you measure sleeve length? I’m knitting even to where I need to do decreases. I need to knit 8″ for the size I chose. Do you measure from the neck? From the where the sleeve meets the body?

  106. Melanie permalink
    March 20, 2019 11:00 am

    how much was would you suggest I knit this sweater in? I am a lady. I guess it would just be helpful to know how much ease the woman in the photos is wearing.

    • March 21, 2019 10:41 am

      Hi Melanie – Emily is wearing her Flax sweater with approximately 2″ of negative ease. Choose a sized based upon your body measurements plus desired ease. Child and men’s sizes look best with 1-2” positive ease, and ladies sizes look great with 0 to 2” negative ease.

  107. Katharina permalink
    March 5, 2019 2:03 pm

    Hey! :)
    Actually I’m trying to make the Playdate Cardigan, but the question is general: I have a yarn that ist not exactly the required gauge (but I still want to use it!), how do I adjust the pattern? My gauge is 21×28 instead of 24×36, so in order to get a (more or less) 6-8y I was thinking about knitting the 4-6y version – what would you say?
    Thanks! :) :)

  108. Kyle permalink
    February 28, 2019 3:28 pm

    Im just beginning and I finished the ribbing for the neck hole but it looks really small. Is this going to stretch out? I’m making the M/L size. I’d assume so since the biggest sweater size only has 6 more stitches than my size but I wanted to be sure before I get too far.

    • February 28, 2019 3:31 pm

      If your cast on isn’t too tight it should be fine. To cover all your bases you can put it on waste yarn and try it on, just to be sure

  109. Darlene permalink
    February 25, 2019 12:24 pm

    I am about to start the sleeves. In the pattern you state to place the stitches on the needle, knit across, then pick up, PM, pick up, join and continue. I know many times when patterns say when picking up it is classed as a knit row. Are we to actually knit the live stitches and then pick up for under the arms? Would that not make the under arm section one row short or does it not matter there? Thanks

    • February 25, 2019 1:52 pm

      Hi Darlene – it does mean that 1/2 of the underarm sts are technically one row short but it REALLY doesn’t matter, promise

      • Darlene permalink
        February 25, 2019 2:49 pm

        Excellent! Thanks so much for the quick response!

  110. Sally permalink
    February 24, 2019 10:01 am

    Hello, what is the brand of yarn used for the baby boys jumper please

    • February 25, 2019 10:20 am

      Hi Sally – that one is SweetGeorgia superwash worsted in ‘hush’, it’s a great colour isn’t it?

  111. Tabitha permalink
    February 13, 2019 7:06 am

    Hi Alexa – novice knitter here – trying to figure out the materials section (lol) – so I’m going to make the XXL size, I’m 19 wks pregnant, so I think that will give some growing room for me… Can you please help me to understand what supplies I need? US #2 and US #5 along with 16″ circulars and 32″ circulars and what is the clarification for DPNs in each size?

    * sorry if all of this sounds dumb!

    • February 13, 2019 4:55 pm

      Hi Tabitha – sweaters in the round do have the disadvantage of needing extra needles. You would need 16″ circs in both sizes, and 32″ circs in both sizes, as well as DPNs. OR you could use a long circular (around 40″) and try the magic loop method, then you only need 1 needle in each size.

  112. Mrs. Petty permalink
    February 12, 2019 7:45 am

    Someone please help! I have shed many frustrated tears over this!

    I am making this sweater in an XXL for my husband, and my question is this:

    So I cast on 96, increasing by 4 to get 100, so I knit 24, m1, 4 times, right?


    Do I purl 10? Do I purl 17? Someone please spell out for me exacty when I increase and how I place my markers so I can finally get started (again).

    • February 13, 2019 4:53 pm

      Hi – For the marker set up you want to follow the directions for your size. You will purl a number of sts, place a marker, knit a number of sts, place a marker, purl, place marker, knit place marker. If you are still having trouble please email us at it’s easier for us to work pattern support via email.

  113. maykb16 permalink
    January 31, 2019 2:19 pm

    Thanks for your generosity in sharing such a great pattern! I’ve searched through the comments and can’t quite find an answer to the question that’s been plaguing me. I’m making the Flax in size adult M/L and the measurements should work out well, except for the sleeves. I need to make an arm hole opening and upper arm that’s at least the L, maybe the XL size. I’m unsure where I should add extra rows at the end of the yoke to provide for larger arms without making the whole both of the sweater larger. Do I extend the raglan? Knit extra rounds even? Thanks.

  114. Therese, Norway permalink
    January 19, 2019 1:43 pm

    Thank you so much for your free patterns and tutorials. My question is, for the Flax Light the gauge is set to 24st/10cm in a fingering yarn. At my knowledge this is quite suitable for sport weight yarn. Can I use a heavier yarn with the correct gauge?

    • January 21, 2019 10:59 am

      Hi Therese – absolutely! As long as you like the fabric you are getting at that gauge it’s perfect!

  115. Aurelea Mahood permalink
    January 5, 2019 8:27 pm

    When measuring the sleeve, do you measure from the underarm or the yoke? Thank you!

  116. Georgia permalink
    December 28, 2018 11:13 am

    Hi I am currently working on my first Flax sweater in the M/L size I have seemed to come to a problem with the raglan part I worked rows 1-2 18 times but I am about 60 stitches short after the end of repeating them 18 times. Was each row supposed to be done 18 times to have a total of doing it 36 times?

    • December 31, 2018 9:13 pm

      Hi Georgia – 18 times is correct, you should be increasing 8 sts per round, 2 in each section. That’s one stitch before and 1 stitch after the marker.

    • Nazar Nasir permalink
      January 12, 2019 8:59 pm

      Count two rows as one and repeat 18 times. That means you’ll be working 36 rounds in total

      • Beth Fuqua permalink
        September 13, 2019 1:50 pm

        I’m making the Flax Light in size 1-2 yrs and it’s time make the sleeves. I have the needles through the 38 stitches on waste yarn and have some questions. I’m using Magic Loop because I am dpn-phobic.
        1. Is there a tutorial on picking up stitches in this situation?
        2. When I pick up the stitches, do I pick up four of the eight stitches, place a marker, shift the needles, and then pick up the other four stitches?
        3. I’m traveling and forgot another ball of yarn, so I won’t be able to do my sleeves at same time. If I keep careful track of the number of rounds I knit, is it ok to just work on one sleeve till I get home or does this risk my gauge being uneven between the sleeves?
        Thank you so much for the great patterns and your help!

      • September 16, 2019 11:26 am

        Hi! We don’t have a tutorial on picking up sts with circular needles, but all the principles are exactly the same. I would pick up 4 sts, shift the needles, then pick up the other 4. Alternatively you could pull the cord out at the sides of the sleeve and place a marker at the BOR, that way your garter panel remains on one needle and your decreases will work a little smoother.

    • Janine permalink
      May 15, 2019 7:28 pm

      Oh no. I thought work as set ( on round 2) was a round where you just knit without increasing . I thought the increasing was on round 1 only.

  117. Laurie L permalink
    December 7, 2018 12:18 am

    I’m working on Flax, size 6-12 month. I am confused about the sleeve. All my stitch counts have been spot-on until I got to the “decrease round” at the end of the sleeve (before the ribbing). I had my 33 stitches (I matched the pattern numbers) and worked 4 inches even. Then … at the decrease round, plus five more rounds and a repeat of those six rounds one more time (for the 6-12 month size) for a total of 7 rounds, I calculate that at each round, I would be dropping down in stitch count by two (one at the k2tog, and one at the ssk, for each round). Seven rounds with two stitches less at each round is 14 stitches. 33 minus 14 equals 19. I have 19 stitches on my DPNs. But the pattern says I should have 29 stitches.
    What did I do wrong?

    • December 10, 2018 12:42 pm

      Hi Laurie – You are going to work the decrease round, then 5 rounds even (no decreases, maintaining the garter panel). That’s a total of 6 rounds and you are going to work those 6 rounds twice. That’s a decrease of 4 sts.

      • loc uyen nguyen permalink
        March 12, 2020 12:14 am

        Thank you for this reply! I’ve been searching for this information – I thought I had to decrease every round as well. Perhaps if you could make a note in the pattern to clarify what you mean by knitting the rounds even. Thank you also for the pattern, this is my first sweater project!

  118. NikkiD permalink
    December 1, 2018 9:08 pm

    Hello! I am trying to “hack” this sweater(I’m only a beginner so Im still trying to figure stuff out) and this is my first adult sized sweater knit (I made a baby flax a few weeks ago) and I’m wondering how this would turn out if I doubled up 2 fingering weight yarns? I know that this would basically be the same as using a DK weight yarn, but for the gauge do I just have to do my swatch and figure out how many stitches I knit per inch, and then transfer that over to the pattern? Also I am a very tight knitter is this a problem for a sweater? I figured that as long as I get the Gauge correct I’d be ok but I’m scared to mess up a project as big as a sweater. Would knitting with doubled up yarn or using bigger needles help with my tight knitting? Any input? Also thanks so much for this awesome pattern!!!!

    • December 2, 2018 7:43 pm

      Hi Nikki – I think you will find that doubling a fingering weight yarn will get you to about a worsted weight, rather than a DK, so the Flax instructions should work just fine. The important thing is to make sure you have the right gauge. If you are a tighter knitter you might have to go up a needle size or 2 to get 18 sts per 4″

  119. Rebecca permalink
    November 14, 2018 9:44 am

    Hi! I am at the step to start decreases on the sleeves. Do I maintain the same number of stitches in garter section throughout the decrease or do I decrease the number of garter stitches, as well? TIA

  120. Debbie permalink
    October 30, 2018 6:24 am

    I’m trying to make the flax jumper 0-6months. Not used circular needles before and for some reason my work is inside out. How can I rectify this. I’m new to circular needles.

    • November 1, 2018 8:51 am

      When I’m working on circular needles, I sometimes work inside out. It’s no big deal, just push the knitting through the loop and you’ll have it back right side facing out. Check out our tutorial on knitting a hat using circular needles here: – it has some photos of how your work should look.

      Good luck!

  121. Kate permalink
    October 29, 2018 6:41 am

    Where in the pattern does it discuss what size needles to use? I see that you need a 16″ and a 32″ and DPNs, but I can’t find where it says what size…

    • October 29, 2018 9:45 am

      The length of the needle is determined by the number of sts you have, so you would want to start at the collar on a shorter needles and when there are too many sts for you to be comfortable switch to the longer needle. Some knitters don’t mind things a little squishy while others prefer their stitches all spread out.

      • Cindy permalink
        November 29, 2018 1:31 pm

        Do you need to buy four sets of circular needles: #2 16″, #2 32″, #5 16″, and #5 32″? If so, where in the pattern do you use #2 and where do you use #5?

      • December 2, 2018 7:44 pm

        Hi Cindy – You could use a longer circular (40″ or so) and work it in magic loop. If you give the pattern a read through where it says ‘smaller needles’ you use the 2 and ‘larger needles’ you use the 5

  122. blackestpearl permalink
    October 18, 2018 3:27 am

    Hi there,

    I’m on the home stretch with Flax (age 1-2) and about to start the sleeves. I’ve not used DPNs before and wondering if it’s manageable to use circular needles with a longer cable?

    Looking at some of the older posts, I understand I need to place my stitches back on the needles to knit clockwise and not anticlockwise – is this the same for picking up the stitches under the arm (which for my sizing is 4 stitches) before joining in the round?

    • October 22, 2018 11:07 am

      Hi – yep, you can definitely use magic loop method (a long circular). when picking up sts you want the RS of the work facing you.

  123. Heather permalink
    September 13, 2018 4:06 pm

    Hi there,

    I was wondering whether or not the row (or round) count is important for this pattern. My stitch count is 4.5 per inch (or 18 for 4”), but my row count is 6 per inch (making it 24 rows for 4” instead of 22.) Will this still work if I knit to given measurements, or should I just try a different yarn?

    Thanks for your help.

    • September 14, 2018 12:38 pm

      Hi Heather – nope, not particularly. All of the lengths in this sweater are ‘knit to’ lengths so you should be just fine! It might take a smidge more yardage than suggested with a tighter round gauge.

  124. Alaina permalink
    September 2, 2018 11:08 am

    I’m new to knitting and am starting to gather supplies for this sweater. for the needles, do I need #6 in 16’&32’ circulars, as well as #4 in 16’&32’ circulars? So 4 circular needles all together?

    • September 4, 2018 2:04 pm

      Hi – it depends what size you are doing, but for an adult sweater you need the 16″ 32″ in the smaller needle and the larger needle you are using. As well as DPN’s for the sleeves. If you are using Magic loop though you can get away with 2 needles, a long circular (40″ or so) in both sizes.

  125. September 2, 2018 7:13 am

    Hi, Im Gaby, thanks for the lovely patterns.

    I have a question about YOKE DEPTH,

    I am mostly a charity knitter, I do knit from children (from babys until 4 years old) and I would like to know if there is any standard measure for yoke depth.

    I guess for the Flax patttern, size 2-4years is, 5,5 inches bust I am not sure and I do not see it on the measurementes table.

    Thanks in advance,


    • September 4, 2018 2:07 pm

      Hi Gaby – it really depends pretty heavily on the design at the yoke, and how the sweater is supposed to fit, so I don’t think there is a standard yoke depth. The yoke depth for Flax is on page 3 though.

  126. Rosane celestino permalink
    July 12, 2018 5:10 am

    Oi por favor traduz por português eu gostaria de fazer também meu nome é Rosane Celestino

  127. Chris Herman permalink
    June 8, 2018 11:42 am

    For the raglan increase rounds, I increase before and after each marker–8 times total–correct?

    Thank you for this pattern tutorial!

    • June 8, 2018 3:21 pm

      Yep, you got it!

      • Laurel permalink
        November 23, 2018 1:05 pm

        I had the same
        Question but was confused by the instructions that seem to imply a kfb at the BOR. so should it be kfb, k1 and kfb (on the knit marker) to get the pattern? Or kfb, k1, k1 (on stitch marker) kfb? Does this make sense? I’m very new to knitting and wondering if I need to pull
        Out the first six rows of the yoke after doing the increases only on one side of the marker 😭

      • November 23, 2018 10:57 pm

        Hi Laurel – The first stitch after the BOR marker is a kfb and the second to last stitch before the next marker is a kfb

  128. Rosaura Maria da Costa permalink
    June 3, 2018 7:45 am

    Queria fazer para meu neto, mas não entendo este idioma. Não tem como traduzir para o portugues?

  129. Nishil permalink
    June 3, 2018 1:10 am

    Hello Alexa and Emily,
    at the outset a huge “thank you” for all your online learning resources and the patterns. I saw your youtube video with Kristy Glass and you were suddenly more relatable. I am a new knitter (started in Jan this year) and I have got ready to knit my 1st proper sweater. Technically 2nd but the first one is so fugly, i’m going to just call it my learning sweater, because it taught me a ton of technique and theory.. it’s been through three “knit-frog” cycles and was knit without a pattern (it helps that I am an extreme case of a process knitter).
    So.. for my 2nd sweater (1st “proper” one) I’m taking the obvious choice i.e. the flax. I have a question about gauge. How significant is a gauge difference of exactly 1 stitch? Your patters says 18sts to 10cm and the yarn that I ordered is 17sts to 10cm. Would that one stitch at the outset change the final proportions significantly (like a domino effect). Was planning to knit an M-size should I rather knit S/M size due to the difference? I am a fairly small built guy but the size-M are my exact chest and arm measurements.
    Thanks a lot again and in advance for your help
    Gros bisous

    • June 5, 2018 10:48 am

      Hi Nishil – You don’t want to go by the gauge on the ball, you want to check and see what YOUR gauge is. Knit yourself a gauge swatch and go from there.

  130. Magenta permalink
    May 19, 2018 10:29 am

    Can I use DK yarn with the Flax Light pattern?

    • May 20, 2018 12:34 pm

      You can, you want to make sure you get the gauge suggested in the pattern and like the fabric you are getting.

  131. LilyJ permalink
    May 12, 2018 5:35 am

    Alexa, thanks a lot (again). You’re right about the sleeves. I was so focused on the yoke I totally missed the “don’t increase a couple of times” option. I’ll keep it in mind for the next sweater, because frogging would be a good idea if I had not already finished the whole bust! Take care!

  132. Chy permalink
    May 7, 2018 7:04 pm

    Do I make a KFB increase before the BOR marker at the end of the round?

  133. Amanda permalink
    May 4, 2018 7:35 pm

    This is incredibly helpful, thanks! I just have one question that is probably dumb – but when I attach the sleeves am I meant to have holes on both sides? This is my first sweater and its meant to go to my cousin who is having a baby this year and I’d like for it to look as nice as I can get it.

    • May 10, 2018 9:42 am

      Hi Amanda – if you are knitting bottom-up you are going to have little holes that you will sew up when you are done. If it’s top down you probably want to pick up 1 more stitch on either side and decrease 2 sts on the next row to keep it looking nice and neat

  134. Carolyn permalink
    April 26, 2018 9:51 pm

    This tutorial is so helpful! Thank you!!

  135. April 26, 2018 12:40 am

    Question with regards to sleeves. Am up to the point where I start the first decrease. I had the 58 stitches on hold for sleeves and picked up the other 8 on the body – so 66 stitches in total. Then I come to the decrease:

    “Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1
    Work 5 rounds even.
    Repeat the previous 6 rounds (10) more times. [(46) sts]”

    If I’ve started with 66 then repeating the previous 6 rounds 10 MORE times would lead me to being down 22 stitches not 20 (so 42 sts left on needles) as I would have worked them a total of 11 times?

    Please could you help?

    • April 26, 2018 5:36 am

      Never mind, I miscounted the bolded numbers. Got myself all confused!

  136. Helen Dennis permalink
    April 6, 2018 12:11 pm

    Hi, I’m about to embark on this sweater and have one question which none else seems to have asked, I’ve read down a long way! the ribbing is done, I will now change to larger needles and start adding increases in, but do I have to use m1 or can I use kfb? If it has to be m1 do I go m1L or m1R? I’ve seen your tutorial explaining both but can’t decide how I know which way the increases should slant or if it will even matter for just one round! Many thanks, Helen

    • April 6, 2018 3:48 pm

      Hi Helen – you can use a KFB but keep in mind that increase uses a stitch to create a stitch. I usually use an M1, right or left isn’t crucial here.

  137. LilyJ permalink
    March 31, 2018 2:48 pm

    Hi! first of all, thanks for this pattern, I’m going to use it soon to lose my “sweater virginity” (sorry for the bad joke).
    I have a couple of questions.
    First, I was wondering if I could use a provisional cast on for the armpit stitches, so I’d have live stitches all around, or if this would affect the strength of that part?
    And another thing: I was thinking of adding 3-4 short rows at the back of the neck, using the wrap and turn technique and hiding the turning points in the garter panels, starting with the smaller and adding a couple of stitches per side in the following short rows. Do you think it might work or short rows from one shoulder to the other wouldn’t make enough difference? I’ve already used this technique, but I’m not sure how it will apply here.

    Thanks a lot, really. You both have the patience of a saint.
    PS: Happy Easter <3

    • April 2, 2018 12:48 pm

      Hi Lily – Happy Easter to you too! You can definitely use a provisional cast on for the underarm. Short rows are a great idea. We skipped them in this pattern for the sake of simplicity but a few short rows are a great addition.

      • LilyJ permalink
        April 3, 2018 4:35 pm

        Thank you!

      • LilyJ permalink
        May 8, 2018 1:57 pm

        Hi again! in the end I’m doing Flax Light (’cause the gauge fit better), and I’m done with the bust, but I have a small “problem”. My mother’s measurements are a bit all over the place: her bust is a perfect M size (she looks so good in it! … me too!), but her upper arm circumference is a S/M. I was thinking of decreasing the extra 4 stitches of the M size in the first and third round after picking up the sleeve stitches… it should work, right?
        And another thing: the length of the sleeve for her would match an XS size (I know, is a bit weird), so I wanted to know where I should start the decreases. I imagine they should start AFTER the elbow? (after all, it’s the thickest part of the arm) and then I’d follow the number of repeat for the XS…
        Sorry for bothering you again, hopefully is the last time!
        PS: the minimal use of short rows (just two) worked very well! Thank you again for your support.

      • May 10, 2018 9:45 am

        Hi Lily – I would probably rip back and skip the increase on the arms for the last 2 rounds (that’s 4 sts less at the upper arm), rather than decreasing right after the pick up.

      • May 10, 2018 9:46 am

        You can follow the sleeve instructions for the SM, just knit fewer inches in the ‘knit x inches even’ section.

  138. March 28, 2018 8:16 am

    gostaria a tradução da receita para o português Brasil!

  139. Barbara permalink
    March 26, 2018 2:19 pm

    I have started the Flax Pullover and am ready to increase stitches after the initial ribbing. I came to the tutorial to check on check the math on that and am now confused with your examples. You reference stitch numbers and increase numbers that differ from the pattern. Example: 56 stitches for newborn while the pattern calls for 80, and 62 for the 6-12 month size while the pattern had me cast on 88. Should I use the numbers in the pattern to sort my math? (I think your numbers continue to differ throughout this tutorial on the garter panels and sleeve numbers.)
    Thanks for your help!

    • March 28, 2018 3:59 pm

      Hi Barbara – are you possibly knitting the Flax Light pattern, rather than the worsted weight Flax?

      • Barbara permalink
        March 31, 2018 8:16 am

        Yes! (Clearly that would account for the number differences! I totally spaced the “Light” issue!)

  140. Renee Broehm permalink
    March 24, 2018 4:11 pm

    I would like to add turtle neck, how would I go about that?

    • March 26, 2018 9:19 am

      Hi Renee – I would probably do a provisional cast on, then pick up and knit the turtleneck tube at the end.

  141. Danielle permalink
    March 22, 2018 12:05 pm

    I am absolutely in tears over the sleeve portion for size 2-4 years. No matter what I do, I cannot get the stitches to correct themselves. On both DPNs and magic loop circulars, the garter panel and the stockinette panel reverse themselves and I have just about had it with this whole project. I have tried so many times to do it the right way and no matter what, the stitches are wrong. I’ve had to tear out my work about 8 times now and put the stitches back on the waste yarn. I’m afraid one more tear out will shred my yarn and the stitches will break.

    • Danielle permalink
      March 23, 2018 8:24 am

      I figured out my mistake! I was going counter-clockwise around the DPNs instead of clockwise! Duh!

      • Nishil permalink
        June 3, 2018 1:34 am

        Yes !!! I am so sorry for you but am also thrilled that someone else had this issue. I was knitting a sweater without a pattern but with this construction and the exact same thing happened to me (albeit not 8 poor thing).. the “direction” of the knitting for the two sleeves are opposite.. since you set the direction while knitting the sleeve sections in the yoke itself.. and with the garter panel in the middle of the round in this pattern I can imagine the mess. Hope your sweater turned out fine after all

  142. jenny permalink
    March 10, 2018 2:36 am

    I have completed marker setup problem with setup round 1 do I kfb and which 2 sts do I knit to make the 2nd kfb awaiting a reply. Thanks

  143. Jenny Green permalink
    March 9, 2018 3:17 pm

    Flax jumper I am working size 11 with 86sts for the yoke, all is good until I knit as far as marker setup row I have 4 markers in place with 2 lots of 41sts and 15sts for garter stich panel. I am now completely lost on setup round 1 help

    • March 12, 2018 1:36 pm

      Hi Jenny – which part is giving you trouble? If you follow the instructions for the round stitch by stitch they work….just not sure how exactly to help

  144. Pam permalink
    February 23, 2018 9:27 am

    After having knit 8 of the hats for my local food pantry, I decided to try the sweater for me. Question after 1.5 inches. So, ready to increase from 90-114 stitches. How would you suggest I divvy up for even spacing. I thought k4 inc 1 18x then k3 inc 1 6x. Is that too uneven? I am a beginner.

  145. Priyanka Prajapati permalink
    February 22, 2018 11:34 am

    From the chest measurement in the given table, is the ease included or excluded? For eg, I want to knit for a 37″ chest, do I knit size M or M/L which is 39″ because it has 2 inch extra as ease?

  146. Cathy permalink
    February 12, 2018 3:34 pm

    In the early part of the pattern, where we are making increases for the yoke, you describe how to do the math for 86 stitches, “eg. for the size XS: you have 86 sts, and you need to increase 12 sts, 86/12 = 7.16. So I will knit 7 sts, then make 1, 12 times, then knit to the end.” The pattern says for that 86 sts, you should end up with 98 sts after the increases, but I keep coming up with 96. What am I doing wrong?

    Now, I’m actually making a large adult sweater, so if I followed your math correctly, I am supposed to divide 90 sts by 36 = 2.5. So does that mean I am knitting 2 sts then making 1 stitch 36 times? Because if I do, then I’m ending up with 108 sts, not 126, which is what I thought I was suppose to end up with! Sorry, I’m really confused on this…thanks!

    • February 14, 2018 12:41 pm

      Hi – I think you are only increasing 10 times if you are ending up with 96. Other than that I’m not totally sure! If you are supposed to increase every 2.5 sts you could do (k2, m1, k3, m1) 18 times, for a nice even increase.

  147. Lori permalink
    February 10, 2018 4:10 am

    Just to doublecheck…when you state to knit six inches even once you’ve picked up the sleeve stitches and joined, you are measuring from the underarm and not the sleeve as a whole (i.e. from the yoke)?

  148. Dalva permalink
    February 7, 2018 4:36 am

    É lindo!!! Mas eu nunca trabalhei com três agulhas. Não sei se vou conseguir. De qq modo mto obrigada pelo tutorial!

  149. January 28, 2018 3:29 am

    Great pattern! I have knit it three times now. I was wondering if you could recommend another jumper pattern to try next? I have been looking through Ravelry but I’m not sure how to tell if a pattern is beginner friendly. Thanks for the great tutorials!

  150. Charlotte permalink
    January 27, 2018 4:14 pm

    So I’ve knitted the Flax jumper twice for babies and once for me – thank you for a great pattern! Could you recommend a jumper pattern to try next? I’m hoping to continue to develop my jumper knitting :) Would it be too soon for a bit of colourwork?

    • February 5, 2018 9:34 am

      Hi Charlotte – be bold! Colourwork isn’t too tough, maybe knit a little hat for practice, but I’d say go for it.

  151. January 25, 2018 6:32 am

    Thank you so much. I have only skimmed your instructions, but already I understand the allure of knitting top-down!

  152. Alli permalink
    January 22, 2018 4:30 pm

    This is my first time knitting a sweater and I have the body completed and am ready to start knitting the sleeves.
    Using DPNS picked up the stitches on the waste yarn and the four additional sitches from the underarm (I’m doing the 1-2 year size), joined to work in the round and knit the first row (purling the garter section). I continued to knit a second row and noticed that all of the stitches from these two rows were coming out as purl stitches on the right side of the sweater. Can you help determine where I went wrong?
    I was able to tear the two rows out and put the stitches back on the waste yarn but am afraid to try it again as I’m not very good at ripping out and saving all of the stitches should it happen again.
    Thank you!

    • January 22, 2018 5:30 pm

      Hi Alli – when you join for working in the round you should have the right side of the work facing you, it sounds like you maybe turned your work?

      • Alli permalink
        January 23, 2018 9:41 am

        Thanks so much for getting back to me. I definitely had the sweater right side out. Could I have moved the stitches to the DPNS incorrectly? I have made mittens before and this process seemed similar to knitting the thumb. I just can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong.

      • January 24, 2018 9:34 am

        Hi Alli

        If you are knitting and it is creating a purl ridge on the right side of the fabric, the stitches are definitely the wrong way around. Maybe send us a pic so we can see what’s going on?

      • Allison permalink
        February 2, 2018 3:33 pm


        I think I figured it out! This seems so silly, but I started knitting the sleeve stitches counter clockwise and it created the purl row ridge. Perhaps that is what you meant by turning my work – I just knew I wasn’t knitting the sweater inside out! I ripped it out and knitted the sleeve stitches clockwise, joining for knitting in the round and all was well. Just thought I might reply in case other newbies ever make this mistake :-) I also left my waste yarn in as a life line until I was sure I was on the right track. This made things much easier when I had to rip back a second time.
        Thank you again for your help!

  153. Cindy permalink
    January 13, 2018 7:01 pm

    Is it possible to add a different color for the garter panel on the sleeves?

    • January 25, 2018 9:57 am

      Hi Cindy – it is, but it’s a little tricky with the sweater being in the round. The yarn has to be carried back across the garter panel, creating a rather long float in the back. It’s much easier to do that with a cardigan, or a sweater knit flat.

  154. Elaine Madison permalink
    January 13, 2018 12:35 pm

    I am having trouble with raglan. It is going wrong direction on both sides.

    • January 13, 2018 7:04 pm

      Hi Elaine – happy to help, but I need a bit more information, I’m not sure I understand the question?

    • Sophie permalink
      April 18, 2019 10:48 pm

      On the pattern after the marker set up its says there are two set up rounds. The second one says to repeat twice but doesn’t that only get you to half way around the stitches? Thx

      • April 25, 2019 12:43 pm

        Hi Sophie – If you work the instructions in the square brackets twice that should get you all the way around.

  155. Kristine permalink
    December 31, 2017 3:34 am

    Hi,really like this pattern. But I would like the yoke to be longer/higher. So my question is-do I just knit it as long/high as I want it to be,or do I need to do it differently..

    • January 2, 2018 9:23 am

      Hi Kristine- for a higher neckline I would recommend casting on fewer sts and then increasing those sts in the first increase round. The yoke depth is adjustable by knitting more rounds after the raglan increases are complete

      • Kristine permalink
        February 25, 2018 12:32 am

        Thank you

  156. Ariane permalink
    December 5, 2017 3:39 pm

    Hi I’m knitting my first sweater (The Flax) and I am stuck here :
    Marker setup: [p10 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15,
    15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 17), PM, k20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 33, 33, 34,
    37, 39, 41, 42, 47, 52, 55, 58, 59), PM] twice.

    I don’t understand what I should do. Do I knot until reaching stich 15 and then purl? And then purl unti I reach stitch 34? And what does the twcie stand for?

    Thank you for your help, English is my second language and I am trying to learn how to read the pattern properly.

    • December 6, 2017 7:22 pm

      Hi Ariane – You want to purl 15 sts, place a marker,knit 34 sts, place a marker, purl 15 sts, place a marker then knit 34 sts, that should take you to the end of the round.

  157. November 27, 2017 10:01 am

    What would be the best cast on for the neck band ? Complexity is not an issue for me. Stretchy or less stretchy ?

    • November 28, 2017 11:14 am

      Hi Manuela – I’m kind of a plain jane kind of gal, I pretty much always use a long tail cast on.

  158. Marta permalink
    November 19, 2017 5:38 am

    Hello, I have one big problem. I start everything ok but later my raglan marker (BOR one) loose perfect shape. What do I do wrong?Is BOR one of the markers (front or back) or is just to show the round start?Please help me

    • November 22, 2017 9:33 am

      Hi Marta – there should be 4 markers total, one indicates the beginning of round as well as being a raglan marker.

  159. Dolores rios permalink
    November 2, 2017 5:21 pm

    Me encanta trataré de hacerlo

  160. Heather Sharp-Keys permalink
    October 20, 2017 1:22 pm

    I am making the Flax in 4xl and have to go from 96 stitches and add 56. If I divide that comes to 1.46. How do I make the increases evenly? I don’t know how to do make 1, but your tutorials have been great. Thank you so much for the pattern and lessons. I really didn’t think I would ever find a sweater pattern in my size that was pretty and easy enough to knit.

    • October 20, 2017 2:15 pm

      Hi Heather – you want to work [k1, m1, k2, m1] a total of 28 times (you will have 12 sts leftover), so glad you like the sweater! It’s always handy for us bigger gals to try on the sweater as we go too, make sure we get a good fit in the yoke etc.

  161. Claire Xia permalink
    October 11, 2017 5:04 pm

    I’m trying to knit a Flax. My round and stitch gauge are both a bit too big, so I’m knitting two sizes smaller to compensate (I did the math already). However, I am having a bit of a problem with knitting the increases after the neck ribbing. How do I space them out? I’m using the XS size.

    • October 12, 2017 9:37 am

      Hi Claire – you are increasing 12 sts so I would work [k7, m1] 12 times

  162. Flora Macdonald permalink
    September 15, 2017 3:55 am


    First time knitting a jumper and I need some help! I’ve just finished the rounds and now am on to the knitting the even rounds. Does this just mean that I just knit for 6 rows (I’m making the 6-month-old jumper) and garter stitch where I need to? I thought this would lose the pattern from the kfb, knit, kfb section on the yoke?


    • September 15, 2017 12:13 pm

      Hi Flora – yep, just knit 6 rounds, but do check the yoke depth to see if you’ve reached the desired yoke depth yet.

  163. Marcela Winick permalink
    September 9, 2017 10:57 pm

    Hi! I’m new at knitting and I’ve been able to knit the whole body without any problems (your tutorial is great). I’m know about to start the sleeves but I’m stuck. How and where do I add the yarn? Also, I can’t understand how you pick up and knit the stitches from the underarm. Do you have another tutorial regarding sleeves on your blog? thanks for your help!

    • crocusmia permalink
      October 24, 2017 1:25 am

      Eek, can someone please respond to this question? I’m having the same confusion! >.< New knitter here, obviously.

      • October 26, 2017 12:46 pm

        Hi – It’s kind of a big questions to answer in a blog comment section. We have tried out best to explain with pictures in the blog post. You are placing your live sts on your DPNs, then, to start with new yarn you just leave a long tail and start working with it. Picking up sts is explained in our ‘picking up sts’ tutorial.

  164. August 22, 2017 8:01 pm

    Can you reuse the yarn from a swatch that you already wet blocked to make another swatch if the gauging is off? Or will it mess up the new swatch’s measurements? Thank you!

    • August 23, 2017 1:41 pm

      Hi Alycia – good question. It’s not ideal, I would probably use new yarn for another swatch, but you could definitely use that yarn for your sweater etc.

  165. lucinda smith permalink
    July 31, 2017 1:32 am

    This is my first time here on this site, my question is when you do the yoke and you do the the number 86.Then you go down to the Marker Setup, where do you put markers at? Your total will be 98, so I am a little bit confused on this.

    • August 2, 2017 9:16 am

      Hi Lucinda- I’m not sure I totally understand the question. You are slipping your markers as you come to them, so they will still be in your work after the set up round….

  166. Lorraine Bissell permalink
    July 12, 2017 9:48 am

    I’m stumped. I’ve knit top down before etc etc etc. However I’m doing the 0-6mth size and I get stuck on marker placement. The neck is too small even on the 5mm to be knit on a 16″ circular so I am using dpn’s. As a result the marker placed at the end of the set up row k20 is on the tip of the needle. Grrrrr. Do you have a suggested strategy for this? Shuffle the stitches along the needles?

    • July 14, 2017 11:39 pm

      Hi Lorraine: when I use DPNS I just arrange the sts so the markers aren’t on the ends, OR I treat the ends as markers (the end of a needle means there is a marker). You may want to make sure the cast on is stretchy enough to go over a little ones head. If not, cast on 4 more sts and skip 4 decreases on the increase round.

  167. Victor permalink
    June 26, 2017 3:09 pm

    Thanks so much for sharing and posting this tutorial which de-mystifies all the “mysteries” of raglan knitting. All of the explanations have cleared up lots of questions.

  168. Laura permalink
    June 21, 2017 5:36 am

    This is such a fun sweater. I am knitting to include the rainbow stripe on the chest like I’ve seen on IG for my 1 year old nephew (size 1-2). I am working the yoke and just realized that for the first 3 sets I increased by 8 on even and odd rows…do I have to back up?

    Thanks for the free pattern!

    • June 21, 2017 12:07 pm

      Hi Laura – it kind of depends how fussy you are as a knitter. I would just keep going and start working the increases on every OTHER round (you may need additional rounds at the end of the yoke to get the depth you desire).

      • Laura permalink
        June 21, 2017 5:54 pm

        Thanks I’ll keep going and see what happens

  169. Anne permalink
    June 16, 2017 3:00 pm

    Living in Australia worsted is not a term used when talking about yarn. I am hoping worsted would be referring to what we would call both DK (double knitting ) or 8ply normally knitted using size 10 (3.25mm) on ribbed bands and size 8 (4.00mm) on the body of the garment. Hoping i am presuming correctly.
    Cheers and thanks

    • June 16, 2017 3:27 pm

      The important thing is that you get the gauge the pattern suggests and a fabric you like! The Flax sweater is 18 sts per 4 inches and the Flax Light is 24 sts per 4 inches

    • October 3, 2017 12:38 pm

      In Aussie terms, worsted is 10ply yarn or yarn that you can knit on 5mm needles (US size 10 needles). But as Alexa said, gauge is more important.

      I’ve knitted this on 4.5mm needles in US DK/8ply yarn and just knit the size higher to get fit good luck.

      • November 4, 2017 1:23 pm

        Hi EE, did you only use 4.5mm needles for the 8 ply or smaller ones as well for the ribbing? I have a heap of 8ply yarn that I want to use and I am trying to work out which needles I need :) Thank you!

  170. Anne permalink
    June 16, 2017 2:42 pm

    OMG thank you so much for this fabulously ready to follow tutorial. It makes instructions so so easy. I am now excited to try and knit this sweater in the round.

  171. Linda Stevens permalink
    June 11, 2017 7:19 am

    I am a newbie and just finished the Flax ribbed collar and am ready to do increases….I’m doing a Large so need to increase 36 stitches from 90 stitches…this comes out to be an increase every 2.5 stitches…so I would increase alternating every 2 and 3 stitches? Can I use Kfb here to increase? thanks for your patience,


    • June 14, 2017 11:37 am

      Hi Linda

      You’ve got it, you will work 2 sts then an increase and then 3 sts then an increase. If you are working a kfb you will need to work 1 st, kfb, 2 sts, kfb because that type of increase uses a stitch to create a stitch. I usually use a bar increase (m1), which does not use a stitch to make a stitch.

  172. Leah permalink
    June 4, 2017 9:46 pm

    I am currently finishing the yoke on my first Flax Light pattern but I have encountered a problem. When I have completed the 21 rounds (I am doing size S-M), I keep ending up with too few stitches cast on. It states I should have 326. I have 248. I have undone my work 3 times and re-done it and this has happened to me 3 times. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!!

    • June 5, 2017 4:38 pm

      Hi Leah – it’s rounds 1-2 a total of 21 times, so it’s 42 rounds

      • Leah permalink
        June 6, 2017 10:21 pm

        Is that it?!!! Oh my goodness, thank you! How did I miss this? Really appreciate you taking the time to reply. My partner said “That was so nice of her!”

  173. Michelle permalink
    June 4, 2017 6:21 am

    If your round gauge matches that stated in the patter, you will need to work 6 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 4, 2, 0, 0) rounds even. If not you will work as many rows as necessary for your yoke to measure 5 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10.5, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12.5) inches deep. Measure from cast on.

    I don’t understand.. when do you start to work rounds even? I’ve done 17 rounds if increases now. Is this correct?

    • June 5, 2017 4:34 pm

      Hi – I think you need to refer to the paragraph before that in the pattern. There it states how many increases you should have worked and how many total stitches you should have.

  174. May 26, 2017 5:55 pm

    Hi there!

    When you say use circulars on the sleeves for larger sizes, are larger sizes medium on up?

    Thank you!


  175. Hilda Holcomb permalink
    April 30, 2017 4:24 pm

    Love this sweater but neck but I prefer a larger neck opening. Easy change? Would I cast on more stiches and work fewer rows in the yoke?

    • May 1, 2017 7:27 am

      Yes! You can cast on using the number of stitches for a larger size, and just increase as many times as required to get to the stitch counts you need for body & sleeves for your size. If it doesn’t quite work out evenly, just add a few extra stitches at the end of the yoke in whichever section they are required. Good luck!

  176. tiphanne permalink
    April 28, 2017 4:54 pm

    Hello and thank you for this great pattern and tutorial! it really has been a great guide to my first sweater. I am currently paused on the project due to the sleeves! can you elaborate on the details? I ended up with a very large sleeve ( I prefer relatively tight sleeves! lol) and strange decrease marks. I did try to use stitch markers to determine where i was to decrease.

    Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1

    Work 5 rounds even.

    Repeat the previous 6 rounds 12, more times. 48, ) sts]

    so my understanding is with the marker at the center of the back of the sleeve, i would knit one decrease round and then 5 rounds of knit? then do that pattern of Decrease 1 row, k 5 rows for 12 times?

    I have taken out my work several times on this cause its just not turning out like i want. could you suggest an alternate decrease rate?

    thank you for your time and thoughts on this!

    Happy Knitting to you!

    • April 30, 2017 11:09 am

      Hi – I think the decrease round is what’s giving you trouble, you are decreasing at the beginning and end of the round, the BOR is located at the middle of the underarm.

  177. Leah permalink
    April 17, 2017 12:27 pm

    Hello! I’m currently knitting flax light for my first ever sweater! I bought all the recommended needles and am a bit confused about knowing when to switch from the 16″ circular to the 32″ circular and the size 2 vs size 5 etc. Any pointers would be so appreciated :)

    • April 18, 2017 9:42 am

      Hi Leah – you want to start with the shorter needles (where you have fewer sts) and switch to the longer circulars when it gets too squishy (when you have too many sts on the needles). When the pattern calls for smaller and larger needles, that refers to the US 2 vs US 5.

      • Leah permalink
        April 18, 2017 9:12 pm

        Thanks! This intuitively makes sense but I didn’t want to mess things up. Appreciate the response!

  178. lucy permalink
    April 14, 2017 10:34 am

    I love the look ion this for my first sweater and I have chosen flax light S/M.
    My (first!) question is around needles – I am confused over what to buy, do I need 16″, 32″ circulars and dpns in 2.75mm and 3,75 mm? making 6 sets of needle? Or is it possible to knit the sweater on the 32″ both neck, yoke and body? using interchangeable and magic loop?
    Thanks in advance

    • April 18, 2017 9:49 am

      Sweaters from the top down (or the bottom up) do tend to require more needles than the average project, since it is (ultimately) an item with so many different sized tubes. You can use a longer circular and the magic loop method to work the whole thing, I would go longer than a 32″ then though, I like to use a 40-47″ needle for magic loop, you would need it in both the 2.75 and the 3.75.

  179. elizabeth permalink
    April 4, 2017 4:13 pm

    Sorry if this has been asked before, what other yarns can be used to knit this? Can I use Cascade 200 Superwash or Knit Picks Brava worsted?

    • April 4, 2017 10:24 pm

      Hi – both of those are great options, you want a Worsted weight yarn, preferably in a natural fiber

  180. Michael permalink
    March 18, 2017 3:46 pm

    Ready to start sleeves. Pattern says knit across the picked up ‘live’ stitches before pick up and knit the additional cast on at underarm. Just wondering what this does for the pattern? Def overthinking from a newer knitter, but I love this craft and want to LEARN! Loving the ease of this pattern. Thanks!

    • March 18, 2017 4:48 pm

      Hi Michael – I’m not sure what you mean? Are you asking about the order of the pickup? Happy to answer any questions!

      • Michael permalink
        March 18, 2017 5:27 pm

        it seems like you are knitting a partial round on the held stitches before p/u the cast on stitches. Also why woul you not join the new yarn where you want the new BOR to start (center of underarm)?

      • March 19, 2017 3:35 pm

        Hi Michael – it doesn’t make a notable difference, the few underarm sts that are technically ‘out’ a round. I also find having the working yarn at the side of the underarm join is better for sewing up any little holes that might come up at the pick up, especially in a sweater aimed at beginners.

  181. Ann Bray permalink
    March 9, 2017 11:34 pm

    Hello, I have made the flax sweater and love the pattern as it is very easy and turns out beautiful. I want to knit this sweater for my son’s birthday. He will be 39 this year and has wanted an Apaca sweater for a very long time. I have the alpaca yarn but it calls for a size 6 needle. I am not so accomplished that I know whether I can adjust this pattern to make it work with a size 6 needle. He has a 45.5 inch chest. Can this be done? Thank you in advance.


    • March 10, 2017 9:42 am

      Hi Ann – you will have to do a gauge swatch, then you can decide if you need to go up a size or 2.

      • Ann Bray permalink
        March 10, 2017 8:52 pm

        Hi Alexa, I did a gauge swatch in the round (first time) and I get 7 stitches per inch vertically and horizontally. How would I figure out how many sizes I would need to go up to make this work… Thank you so much.

      • March 11, 2017 9:45 am

        Hi Ann: at a gauge of 24 sts per 4 inches you will want to try the Flax Light rather than the Flax, it has a gauge of 24 sts per 4 inches.

  182. Doone permalink
    March 2, 2017 12:11 pm

    When working the Flax sweater, it says to put a marker before and after the garter panel when doing the marker setup. Now, since the markers are set up, dividing the garter panels from the front and back, why does it say later,”it might be helpful to place ADDITIONAL markers on each side of the garter panel” in order to see where the garter panel starts and stops, when they are already there? Does this mean, somehow, the garter panel is shifting away from it’s original placement, so now we have to place markers to show where the garter panels are now??

    • March 2, 2017 1:19 pm

      The stockinette sts in the sleeves outside of the garter panel will increase, but the garter panel will remain in the same spot.

  183. Doone permalink
    February 28, 2017 7:34 am

    Thank you for helping with this pattern. I am still wondering if the increases are correct. According to other patterns I have made similar to this one, you do the increases as follows:

    knit to two sts before marker, kfb, k1, slip marker, k1, kfb.

    Can this pattern be done this way? The garter panel is confusing to me. I like it and would like to use it, but I am having too much trouble with the increases. I have ripped it out 3 times. Very frustrating.

    • February 28, 2017 10:41 am

      Hi – The increases are exactly as you have said: kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb. The rounds with increases are all knit, the rounds with purl for the garter section have no increases in them

  184. Allison permalink
    February 27, 2017 6:32 am

    Hello! Recently.finished my first sweater! Love the Flax pattern, but neck opening too big (made 2-3 year old size). Should I cast on fewer stitches or use smaller needles next time? Is there any way to fix it now without flogging the whole thing? This pattern is awesome and knit up so quick!

    • February 27, 2017 3:33 pm

      I would say smaller needles, and you could also cast on fewer sts and just increase them in the increase round before the raglan starts.

  185. Katharina Bene permalink
    February 24, 2017 6:54 am

    Hello! :)
    I’m knitting the flax pullover in Child size 4. Its my first sweater!
    I increased EVERY round for 12 rounds now, and reading the comments i more and more believe i got it wrong… I’m supposed to increase every other round and just knit without increasing every other round, right?? (And if i would do the garter thing, I would garter along in round 1 and 2, wouldn’t I?)
    But I wondered that the pictures of the finished pullover seem to show an even encreasing line going through all the rounds… Does it just look even allthough every second stich in the increase line is a non-increase stitch?
    So, could you pleease make a suggestion what to do now? Should i just stopp increasing and knit until the yoke meets my measurements or should i unpick some rows…?

    • Katharina Bene permalink
      February 24, 2017 7:00 am

      Round means from beginning to end, right? From sleeve one to front to sleeve two to back until your back at sleeve one = a round – right? not from garter panel one to garter panel two or something?

      • February 24, 2017 4:07 pm

        Yep, a round is from your Beginning of Round BOR marker all the way around, back to the BOR marker

    • February 24, 2017 4:06 pm

      Hi Katharina- I’m afraid it’s a rip and a learning experience, the increases need to be every other round

  186. Doone permalink
    February 22, 2017 7:08 am

    I am making the Flax child top down raglan. I have an issue with the size of needles when casting on for the neck area. I know how to use the Magic Loop, but I don’t want to, it confuses me when making the increases. I don’t have a 16″ circular needle. I have 24″, 29″ and 40″ needles. What do you suggest? I don’t want to have to buy yet another needle!!

    • February 22, 2017 2:17 pm

      I’m afraid the only answer is magic loop or a 16″ needle. Or double pointed needles if you have them

      • Doone permalink
        February 26, 2017 6:59 am

        Thank you. I am now using a 16″ needle. My other problem is, at the start of the Setup round 1: it says to kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglan marker, kfb,k1] 4 times. Ok, if I start kfb, which is the garter section, that would mean I am increasing in the garter sleeve, therefore, it would keep putting more garter sts in the garter section. Please explain what I am understanding wrong.

      • February 27, 2017 3:34 pm

        Hi – You are working increases in the sleeve, but you are just working the garter over the same number of sts every round.

  187. Nik McFarland permalink
    February 16, 2017 10:26 am

    I’m knitting the M/L sweater. The pattern says to knit until the yoke is 9.5 inches, then collect 53 stitches from bor to marker on each sleeve. My issue is, I’m about 7 inches in, but I have 77 stitches on each sleeve. I’m quite confused.

    • February 16, 2017 7:14 pm

      It’s hard to say but it sounds like you have done too many raglan increases. Once the raglan section is complete you are knitting straight, no increases

  188. Nik McFarland permalink
    February 16, 2017 9:49 am

    When measuring the yoke, mine should be 9.5 inches, am I measuring from the front/back? Because if I measure at an angle from cast on down the row of kfb stitches it’s about an inch or so longer.

  189. February 9, 2017 10:26 am

    I must really love this pattern:) as I am redoing it for the 4th time trying to figure out the raglan directions! Is there something missing in the directions? Do I increase 1 stich before marker and 1 stitch after marker? Help! I can’t figure this out! Thank you in advance!

    • February 9, 2017 11:07 am

      Hi Eileen – you’ve got it! You are going to knit to 1 stitch before the marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, etc.

      • February 9, 2017 4:51 pm

        Thank you! I think this full step is missing on the Flax directions, but then again I’ve never made raglan sleeves! I can’t wait to wear this sweater! Thank you for the pattern!

  190. Haley Valentine permalink
    January 30, 2017 6:32 am

    I recently finished this sweater. I notice that the neckline comes up a bit too high – just over the hollow spot in my neck. How do I fix this? If I pull it down, the neckline fits better, but every time I raise my arms it goes back up high. I did block it already, but I suppose I could try again.

    • January 30, 2017 2:28 pm

      Hi Haley – it sounds like there are too many rows in the yoke for your liking. This might mean you need to re-do the yoke. If it is a bottom up sweater you can undo your bind off and take the yoke down (it really depends on the sweater to find the best place to do that). If it is top down it would be quite an operation, you would separate the yoke from the rest of the sweater, either take out the rows you don’t want or re-knitting it, and then re-joining it to the rest of the sweater using kitchener stitch.

  191. Elizabeth C. permalink
    January 7, 2017 8:54 pm

    Is there an easy way to make the hole for the head not quite so big?

    • January 9, 2017 10:32 am

      Hi Elizabeth – to make the neck opening smaller you would need to cast on fewer stitches and make up the difference in the increase round after the ribbing

      • Kirsten McCorkell permalink
        March 20, 2017 4:34 am

        I’ve just finished a James C Brett sweater in their chunky and now I’m ready to venture on a thinner sweater for the warmer weather, especially one without all the sewing up afterwards! The James C Brett is a traditional raglan bottom up sweater and the neck is finished with a couple of rows of ribbing, and then a couple of rows of stockinette knitted on the larger needles to give a “roll” neck. Can I cast on with larger needles, knit some stockinette rows, and then change to smaller needles and do ribbing as though I am at the beginning of your pattern? I really like the roll neck, and it would reduce the apparent size of the opening without changing the actual measurements?

      • March 20, 2017 9:11 am

        I think a roll neck will work. It wouldn’t change the overall measurements.

  192. agraves5 permalink
    January 5, 2017 2:58 pm

    Instead of the 16 in circulars could I use 20 in circulars if I am making a size S?

  193. agraves5 permalink
    January 4, 2017 5:05 pm

    I have browsed many beginner sweaters, and this is the one I have chosen. I am excited! However because it is my first sweater (and the high probability for inevitable mistakes), I do not want to buy really expensive yarn. Do you have any other suggestions for yarn that are not as expensive?

    • January 5, 2017 10:14 am

      Cascade 220 is always a good one, I would strongly recommend a yarn that is blockable (ie. not acrylic) because acrylic yarn doesn’t really block and it won’t do your hard work justice

      • agraves5 permalink
        January 5, 2017 10:48 am

        Great! Thanks for the info! Is there a specific Cascade 220 yarn you would recommend?

      • January 5, 2017 12:02 pm

        Any one will do!

  194. Amanda permalink
    December 27, 2016 5:01 pm

    Ok I saw someone ALMOST asked my question, but they deviated from it last minute. I’m a pretty new knitter, but have made scarves, hats and blankets…

    But what I really want is sweaters!!! I was going to make sweaters for my whole family with this if I could get it going… but I have no idea where to start… what is with all the numbers? They don’t seem to match the sizes. I want a 3 yr old, a 6-8 yr old, a woman’s Med. and a Man’s Med…
    I was going to start with the 3 yr old because its smaller and faster.
    How do I read the pattern with all the numbers?
    Is there a video on anyone knitting this up? There is one on a bottom up sweater from knitpicks, but I liked how yours was more simple with a chart, and I liked the top down aspect…

    Please help. Thank you so much, I really want to get started on sweaters! I am a sweater lover and this would really make me so happy.

    Thanks again,

    • December 28, 2016 2:21 pm

      Hi Amanda – are you asking about the brackets? If you are knitting for a 3 year old you either want the 2-4 or the 4-6 size (depending on how big a 3 year old you have and how much room to grow you want, and how long you expect it to take to complete the sweater), the 2-4 is the 4th size and the 4-6 is the 5th size. So, when the pattern says to cast on 56 (62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78, 86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96) sts, you will cast on 74 or 76 stitches depending on which size you choose to knit.

      • Amanda permalink
        January 5, 2017 3:12 pm

        Thank you so much!
        I also have a few further questions and one correction:

        1) I am meeting gauge perfectly with a size up needle, 18sts and 22 rows=4″. BUT after the raglan KFB stitches and you continue there are different numbers:
        The Pattern says 2-4 yrs slot, work 6 rounds even. If gauge is different then work till yoke measures 5.5 ” deep.
        But on this Instruction page it says to work 8 rounds even if meeting gauge, or till 6″ deep if gauge is different (below drawn picture of Yoke, bottom of the paragraph).

        But here’s the kicker, I meet gauge (I’ve double checked my swatch and my sweater, I meet it perfectly with size up needles), but mine only = 4.5″ after 8 rows even. Are you measuring the depth from the sleeve or the front/back? Does it matter? And what directions should I follow? The 5.5″ or the 6? I’m assuming this is unblocked… Should I just go with it as I meet gauge otherwise?

        Further info that might be helpful- I do meet the stitch numbers as well. 150 or 31sleeves and 44 f/b.

        My other questions are:
        2) Does the raglan line disappear the 6-8+ stitches that are knitted even on the yolk?

        3) Setting up the raglan rounds the Pattern is clearer than this page, as it clearly states to kfb, k2, marker, kfb,k1… I’m past this point, but I’m still confused. I think I worked out ok as my stitch number is correct, but is this really in rounds or sections? Like the Front/back portion you kfb the 3rd and 3rd from the end, and knit 2, closest to the marker (boy thats hard to describe- I’ll try again, For the front and back section: k2, kfb, knit rest of section, but 3rd st from next marker kfb, k2 place marker for sleeve, and kfb after…) and for the sleves you kfb the first and last stitch. Ok I’m just trying to make sure I am clear… that was hard to explain for me. I don’t understand how that could be rounds… rows? A round is a row in circle knitting right?

        4) Also- just want your advice, after the collar, how would you increase? As it’s a k1 p1 rib, I found that sometimes when I did “make one” I got a hole, so I just did kfb to increase, but what would you suggest to increase after the collar?

        I am so sorry this is horrendously long! Please be patient with me : )
        Thank you so much for answering the questions people have written.
        Happy Knitting.

      • January 5, 2017 11:50 pm

        Hi – okay, so you want to follow the pattern, but I have made the pattern and tutorial consistent now in yoke depth (they were coming out a smidge long so we did adjust the pattern). I measure the depth straight down the front.

        2. Yep, you are no longer working raglan increases so there won’t be a raglan line.

        3. I’m afraid I don’t understand the question. You are working a kfb increase in the first stitch after a marker and the second to last stitch before a marker. You are always slipping you markers as you come to them.

        4. I usually use an m1 increase. If you are getting a hole you might be working them the wrong way (ie. knitting through the back loop when you should be knitting them through the front and vice versa.

  195. December 21, 2016 9:36 am

    Help! Ok I just finished the marker setup and have all my PM in. I understand Setup round 1 and 2 establish the garter stitch sleeve. But I’m confused on round 1 and 2. Where it says {kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglain marker, kfb, k1] 4 times, am I doing this even across the sleeves?

    And then work as set I assume means to stockinette stitch the front and back and then purl or knit the sleeves…

    • December 22, 2016 9:40 am

      Hi – So, for round 1 you are working 8 increases (kfb’s), one before and one after each marker. You are increasing 2 stitches in each section, 2 on the front, 2 on the back, and 2 on each sleeve.

      For round 2, you are going to knit everything except the garter panels on the sleeves, those sts will be purled

      Does that help?

  196. Devon permalink
    December 16, 2016 9:07 am

    How do you sew up the holes in the underarms with the tails? Is there a particular way?

    • December 16, 2016 11:10 am

      Hi Devon – I use my tail and just put in 1 or 2 whip stitches (on the wrong side of the work) to close it up.

  197. David permalink
    November 21, 2016 6:46 pm

    I am confused by the difference between numbers in the pattern and the tutorial – I am knitting a 6-12 mos and the pattern says to cas on 88 stitches while the tutorial says 62…which one is it?

    • November 21, 2016 10:54 pm

      Hi David – are you possibly knitting the Flax Light? The numbers will be different but the concepts will be the same.

  198. Rachel permalink
    November 12, 2016 1:23 pm

    I’ve never actually ventured past hats and scarves but I really want to try this. Two questions: is the garter panel really necessary, or would I be able to work solely in stockinette stitch for the yoke and the sleeves, purely for aesthetic reasons. Second, what does PM mean? I’m sure I’ll have other questions once I really get into it!

    • November 12, 2016 10:24 pm

      You can go ahead and skip the garter panel if you like! PM means place marker

  199. Laura Skinner permalink
    November 9, 2016 7:07 pm

    Hello and thank you for this beautiful pattern! I have one quick question. First the pattern has us do the setup round 1 and setup round 2 and then the instructions for the round 1 and round 2 that will be repeated. Then the pattern says work rounds 1-2 a total of 8 times do we include the setup rounds as one of the 8 or start counting with the “regular” round 1 and round 2. Thanks so much!

    • November 10, 2016 8:54 am

      Hi Laura – just rounds 1-2, don’t include the set up rounds

      • Paula Taina-Nielsen permalink
        December 30, 2017 1:21 pm

        Thank you thank you thank you! I have been going mad about why my total cast on after 8 increases of raglan sums up to 8 too few sts. I counted the setup rounds in the total 8. But now I know better! Thanks for the pattern and the time you take to help us.

  200. Leah permalink
    November 3, 2016 8:57 am

    Do I make increases on round 2 as well?

    • November 3, 2016 2:23 pm

      Hi Leah – for the yoke you are only working increases every other round.

  201. Noreen permalink
    October 16, 2016 6:25 pm

    I’m right at the point where I’m about to work the rounds even before I separate the body and the sleeves. I’m supposed to have 190 stitches, 38 at each sleeve and 57 at the front and back. My sleeve sections have the proper number of stitches, but one of the other sections only has 56. Should I increase one more stitch when I work the even section, or is it okay because the sleeve sections are the same?

    • October 19, 2016 9:35 am

      Hi Noreen – One stitch is non critical. You can add it in or leave it alone, knitters choice!

  202. Janet Kean permalink
    October 12, 2016 9:34 am

    What a wonderful website! Great to have so many people returning to knitting and even better for the beginners, as you very clearly direct and encourage them.
    Thank you

  203. October 10, 2016 7:35 pm

    Attempting to swatch–I’m having trouble switching in the round. 18 stitches just aren’t enough to join on the 16″. Do I swatch on dpns, or knit flat?

    • October 11, 2016 9:47 am

      Hi Katie – good point, swatching in the round is ideal. Personally I just knit a wee Barley hat so I would have a usable swatch but DPNs are just fine. I would cast on at least 24 for a swatch though.

  204. Karen permalink
    October 2, 2016 5:10 am

    Hello! I am going to be knitting this jumper as a XXL or 3XL (I still have to measure my hubby). I want to double check that I start to cast on, on the shorter needles. I will however need to switch to longer needles, as this jumper will be big. This is the first time I have knitted a sweater, so I am not sure how or when I need to switch to longer circular needles. Can you please advise? Many thanks.

    • October 4, 2016 6:35 pm

      Hi Karen – you are switching to the longer needles when the shorter ones become too squishy (too many stitches on them)

  205. Elizabeth permalink
    August 24, 2016 8:38 pm

    Hey there! This is a really wonderful tutorial, especially for someone who is just now working on their very first sweater! I just have a question about the beginning. It says to use the smaller needles (the 16″ ones), but should I be using the size 6 needles or the size 8 ones? It doesn’t say which one you should use and I’m a little confused on which one I should, since I’m not experienced at all with sweaters. :/
    Thank you so much for any help!

    • August 30, 2016 9:52 am

      Hi Elizabeth – ‘smaller needles’ means the size 6. You will use the shorter needles when there are fewer stitches and switch to the larger ones when it becomes too ‘squishy’ on the needles

  206. August 24, 2016 1:34 pm

    queria muito fazer, mais não entendo nada em inglês ;(

  207. cindy permalink
    August 20, 2016 4:54 pm

    i have a question for starting the sweater in patteren it says cast on with smaller circulars but it seems that the 16 inch circular is too big for just 56 sts….so do i use dpns…instead thanks….

    • August 24, 2016 9:49 am

      Hi Cindy – I would try a bit of a looser cast on, it should fit around the 16 inch (just barely) to start

  208. Rina permalink
    August 15, 2016 10:35 am

    Hi! I just finished the Harvest cardigan and was really happy how it turned out. I want to start Flax but it’s Sport/5ply, so I’m not sure if I should follow the regular Flax pattern or Flax light. I want to make it a little more boxy than fitted also. Do you have a recommendation for gauge / size to follow if I want to make an adult SM? Thanks!

    • August 24, 2016 9:52 am

      Hi Rina – we have both a worsted and a fingering weight version for the Flax sweater, I think with a Sport you would want to follow the fingering weight version per pattern. It may turn out a titch bigger because sport is a little heavier than fingering but if you are looking for a looser fit that is fine anyways.

  209. August 13, 2016 9:19 pm

    First: thank you, thank you, thank you for this pattern! I don’t think I would have braved my first sweater without it :)
    I wanted to knit this as a lighter summer garment, so I went with Flax Light but have a question: I’ve swatched and got the correct gauge with US #3 needles – does this mean I need to knit the collar/rib parts using US #0 or should I stick with US #2? Thanks in advance!

    • August 24, 2016 9:53 am

      Hi – so glad you like it! You want something 2-3 sizes smaller for the ribbing so go with a 0

      • August 24, 2016 1:59 pm

        Sweet! I realized that 2 was the smallest set of DPNs I had and decided to order 1 and 0 circular needles to try out just in case. Thank you so much for getting back to me :)

  210. Marta permalink
    July 27, 2016 11:10 am

    Hello, I like your flax sweater and I would like to knit it size S but I can’t understand the number of stitches to cast on size S. PLEASE HELP ME!!!

    • July 27, 2016 12:13 pm

      Hi Marta – all the details are in the pattern, you just need to download it

      • Marta permalink
        July 29, 2016 2:57 pm

        THANK YOU!! Unfortunately, I have another problem now: set the collar and… I can’t figure out how many and when increase sts appear. Size S collar 86 sts, increase 18(I knit 4 sts and after that 1 new sts and I repeat 18 times, of course not one increase by another), when do I start to increase??The first setup round together with increase for raglan? Or I have to add only raglan in the 1st setup?Sorry but I just can’t understand it….

      • August 2, 2016 1:14 pm

        Hi Marta – I think yo may be overthinking it a bit. There is an increase round, where you are working your 18 increases, then you start the raglan increases.

  211. Emily Peterson permalink
    July 3, 2016 6:13 pm

    Love this sweater! I’ve worked through to picking up the sleeve stitches (after the body is finished). Now I’ve tried DPNs (and I’ve been practicing to get better at using them) but I’m more proficient with Magic Loop. I put my held stitches on the circular needle but I’m finding that I have to purl for the stockinette section- what’s going on here??? It’s probably very simple but it’s a like mind puzzle for me right now!

    • July 3, 2016 8:44 pm

      Hmm, sounds like you have it going inside out? If you email me a pic I might be able to figure it out!

      • Emily Peterson permalink
        July 6, 2016 10:07 am

        Yes I realized after I posted that I was doing exactly that! I’ve rectified that issue. Do you have any tips for making the join of sleeve to body look more “seamless”? My join is very obvious. Is this minimized when you use DPNs versus Magic Loop?

      • July 6, 2016 10:47 pm

        Do you mean your sleeve pick up? You are picking up your stitches that were formerly on waste yarn, so all but the underarm should be seamless completely. For the underarm you can always pick up a couple of extra stitches and decrease them on the next round to close the gap.

  212. Vanessa permalink
    June 21, 2016 11:37 am

    This is my first sweater and I’m learning so much. The tutorials are very helpful. I’m nearly finished the body and was wondering if I have to go back to the 4 mm needles for the ribbing. I think I’d prefer it hang a bit more loosely, rather than be too tight around my hips. Will sticking with the 5 mm create a roomier ribbing?

    • June 21, 2016 12:05 pm

      Hi Vanessa – so glad you like the Flax! The trouble with ribbing is that if you use the same needles the ribbing tends to look ‘sloppy’ (at least it does when I do it!), so, since this is knitting, you can absolutely give it a go and see if you like it, but I think you may want to go back to the 4mm and work a nice loose bind off.

      Alternatively if you don’t like the ‘pinch’ of ribbing, you may want to try working garter stitch at the hem and cuffs instead, (knit 1 round, purl 1 round)

  213. Barbara Glaser permalink
    June 20, 2016 8:12 am

    Hi, I’m knitting the flax light sweater, in medium. I finished the yoke and switched to larger needles, in my case, 32 inch # 5’s. The stitches are stretching along the needle, and I’m wondering if I should be using 24 inch needles, or if as I continue increasing the needles won’t seem too long. Thank you!

    • June 21, 2016 12:09 pm

      Hi Barbara – do you mean that you have finished the collar or the yoke? If you mean the collar you can decide if you want to switch to a shorter needle, but with the increases it shouldn’t take TOO long before 32 is the right size. If you mean the yoke, and you have separated the sleeves, you will want to switch to a 24″ because there are no more increases on the body.

  214. Jennifer permalink
    May 18, 2016 10:08 am

    I just started knitting in February and my dream is to someday knit myself a sweater. I just found your Simple Collection and I love it. I think I might actually be able to do this! Hope to start very soon. Thank you for the detailed, beginners’ level instructions and patterns.

  215. Xus permalink
    May 4, 2016 1:49 pm

    Love your pattern but I can’t understand what happy se to the raglan section once you stop increasing. When knitting even, raglan disappears!

  216. Xus permalink
    May 4, 2016 1:35 pm

    Hi, I can’t understand how it’s possible to keep the raglan pattern once you stop increasing. When working even, all stitches look the same, raglan disappears! Thanks xoxo

    • May 6, 2016 9:17 am

      The raglan does stop when you work even, I suppose you could increase and then decrease but it will look different still. The ‘knit even’ rounds tend to end up in the underarm (unseen) anyways.

      • Xus permalink
        June 23, 2016 10:09 am

        Thanks! I must have done something wrong as it didn’t go as far as the underarm

  217. C A Cooley (Mrs ) (BA etc) (OAP) permalink
    May 3, 2016 1:48 am

    I have read through the above and feel I will stick to traditional ways of knitting.
    Maybe I am set in my ways, but there are many other wonderful patterns on your website
    to choose from I have studied, with beautiful results, I hasten to add. With best wishes for all those who wish to encourage knitting and traditional crafts.
    Creative Carol (OAP)

  218. Tara Bambauer permalink
    April 28, 2016 11:05 am

    This is my first sweater but I am stuggling with what needles to use where, I understood the required needles were a circular 16inch in US #4 and a 32 inch circular needle in US#4 and a set of dbl pointed needles in #4. Also a US #8 , 16 inch circular needle, a a US #8 32 inch circular needle and a set of dbl pointed needles in #8 US too. Did I miss understand this or am I missing when to change over? I fninshed the yoke but it is 3 inch shorter but I have been using a #4US 16 and the 32 inch circular needles for it…..bu4 my gauge was the #8 …what did I miss ? Thanks!

    • April 29, 2016 9:36 am

      Hi Tara – you are starting the ribbing with the smaller needle (a US 6 / 4mm in the pattern), then after the ribbing it says to switch to larger needles, that would be your 16″ US 8. Then, when your stitches get too squishy you can change to the 32″ US 8. The 32″ US 6 is for the ribbing at the hem.

      • Tara Bambauer permalink
        April 29, 2016 3:17 pm

        Oh! Dhuh! Should have seen that sooner! Thanks! :)

  219. Cornelius McCallum permalink
    April 27, 2016 4:10 pm

    Just a quick note to say thank you for the pattern. Yes it is my first jumper and I am onto the body, so as you say miles of knit knit knit 0:) . No real problems apart from gauge but you did tell me to knit a swatch……. Nonetheless I am enjoying it, not been knitting for long, granny squares, scarf, hats and then onto Kate Davies Rams and Yowes followed by, just finished, tir chonail blanket and thought enough with the blankets, sweater time and yours is just the ticket. I have used Jamiesons of Shetland Autumn tweed, which though an aran may be a little thinner than others hence my troubles with sizing. Much love to you and yours, Cornelius.

  220. March 30, 2016 4:40 pm

    Hi – thanks in advance for your help.
    My first question – after completing Setup round I counted my increases within the garter stitch section. I am working on the smallest size sweater so there are twelve stitches. The instructions say that I should only have ten stitches. I don’t think this is possible because we increased 2 stitches per section. Is this a typo or have I misunderstood?

    Second question – I started Setup round 2 by doing a k1, p10, k1 for the garter stitch section. The instructions do not tell me to knit straight in the next section and then repeat this in the garter section. Or is that what it means when you say “twice”.
    I know this is simple. Thanks for helping me understand.

    • April 4, 2016 2:27 pm

      Hi Barbara – While you have increased on the sleeves, you don’t want to increase the garter section. You will be knitting 1 stitch, purling 10, and knitting 1 on the next round.
      That is exactly what ‘twice’ means

  221. jane permalink
    March 11, 2016 7:48 am

    I forgot to put a BOR marker for my sleeve and now I cant quite figure out where to put the maker to start my decrease round. im doing the 4-6 yo size

    • March 14, 2016 10:47 pm

      Hi Jane- not to worry, the BOR marker comes at the middle of the underarm.

  222. Chris permalink
    March 5, 2016 4:26 pm

    love this pattern! very clear and actually makes sense. excited to give it a go, however, 1 question about the raglan increases. I will be knitting for the Adult Small, so it says “Round 1:[kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglan marker, kfb, k1] 4 times. Round 2: work as set; [knit to garter panel, purl garter panel] twice, knit to end of round. Work rounds 1-2 a total of (15) times. ” My only question about this, does that mean I am not increasing every round at the markers? Every other round increasing, but every even round keeping panel?
    Any explanation would be appreciated! (Also, if done by increasing every round (not every other), would it be acceptable to knit even every round (keeping panel) after the 15 increase rounds to achieve the correct measurement from CO?

    • March 9, 2016 2:53 pm

      Hi Chris – Yes, you are increasing every other round at the markers.

      • Chris permalink
        March 13, 2016 5:18 pm

        thank you!
        & correction: meant to say Adult MEDIUM with those numbers.

  223. March 4, 2016 9:35 pm

    Thank you for this free pattern! I just knitted this, my first sweater, for my one year old nephew and the pattern was so clear and easy to follow. (He’s going to get a gramps cardi next) I am going to knit a flax sweater for myself too and want to do the sleeves entirely in reverse stockinette. If I were to do this would I change the kfb increases in the sleeve panels of the yoke pfb’s instead? Or does it not matter?

    • March 9, 2016 2:56 pm

      I might work a make-1-purlwise if you were keeping it in reverse stockinette, rather than garter.

  224. jane permalink
    February 21, 2016 10:09 am

    I am knitting the 4-6 yo size. I am on the “round 1″ after the set up. There is only one stitch between my garter panel marker and my raglan marker. So, when the directions say to ” Kfb, knit to 2 stitches before raglan marker, kfb, k1″ I only have one stitch to increase on after my garter panel maker and my raglan marker…. or else I will be in my garter panel and i don’t think I am supposed to be increasing the garter panel more than the directed 14 garter stitches right? What do I do?

    • February 22, 2016 2:39 pm

      Hi Jane- the first increase comes within the garter panel

      • Tracey Craig permalink
        October 4, 2016 4:56 am

        Thanks for the great pattern, I am a little confused by the increase part – sorry. Can you help? I thought the increase was after the garter panel at the beginning of stocking stitch ( the front and back panel). In the round I only seem to increase four stitches rather than the 8. Can you explain how you increase in the garter if we are to keep this panel at 20 stitches. I am knitting the gents size L. I am a very new knitter. Does this mean that the first two stitches on the garter are kfb, knit? So do you purl only 20 on the next round of the garter stitch.

      • October 4, 2016 6:32 pm

        Hi Tracey – you are increasing on either side of the marker, so, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1 at each marker. Does that help?

  225. lmnop permalink
    February 16, 2016 5:32 pm

    Hi there,

    I am about to cast on this sweater, my first one ever 😊
    I am excited, however I’m also a little confused about picking the right size. My chest measurement is smaller than my hip measurement and your instructions call for the chest measurement when the graphic seems to instruct to measure toward your hips at the bottom of the sweater. This is a difference in size for me. ….

    Could you please clarify?
    Thank you so much

  226. Kerrie permalink
    February 16, 2016 3:05 pm

    I am in love with this pattern and get tons and tons of compliments from all the moms-to-be who receive it – thanks for making me a star!
    In all seriousness – I would like to try something new with it and need advice – I would like to do the body, collar and cuffs one color and the sleeves another. is there a way to achieve this?
    Or is this craziness and maybe I should just look at stripes?

    • February 22, 2016 2:46 pm

      You can easily do the sleeves in a different colour starting from the sleeve split, but otherwise you would need to work it back and forth and seam it up at the end.

  227. Miss Cale permalink
    February 11, 2016 9:25 am

    I’m incredibly confused here. When you start the increasing of the yoke, it say increase rows 1-2 20 (for large) times. Is that 20 per each 1 and 2 row? I’m supposed to have 294 stitches and I’m short 80. I’ve been counting my stitches along the way to make sure my increases are correct. Where did I go wrong?

    • February 11, 2016 7:31 pm

      Hi Miss Cale – for the Flax sweater you are working row 1 and 2 20 times for your size, that means round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2. The math works out, you will have the right number of stitches! Remember that you are working 8 increases every other round.

  228. Jenny permalink
    February 3, 2016 7:41 am

    I read through the comments and didn’t see my answer- apologies if it was buried in there and I’m asking a question that was already answered.

    Once I’m through the increases and I need to knit even to get the yoke depth- do I measure down the front (or back) from the neck/cast on or do I measure (diagonally) down the raglan line from the neckk/cast on?

  229. Terry permalink
    January 21, 2016 6:37 pm

    I don’t have enough stitches I have 191 I should have 240 I am doing the smAll I don’t what I did wrong

    • January 25, 2016 1:01 pm

      Hi Terry – i would love to help but I’ll need a little more information. Are you increasing 8 sts on the increase rounds (either side of the marker)…maybe email us with a picture?

      • Terry permalink
        January 30, 2016 7:50 pm

        I found my mistake and took out and started over I didn’t knit 14 rows I do d 7 f I forgot they the 2 rows counted as 1 thanks for getting back to me

  230. January 20, 2016 11:56 pm

    Hello! I found your Flax pattern on Ravelry and thought why not! It looked ‘simple’ enough for a beginner like me…well, I frogged twice already before finishing the yoke part…(luckily, it is only little kids size…knits up quickly! 4-6yrs) I am enjoying the challenge! (I have only knitted blankets, scarves and hats so far…)
    Since English isn’t my first language, it really helps to see the tutorial with pictures. Thank you for providing that as well. (and its free!)
    However, I got stuck…toward the end of the Yoke section. I did finish the round 1 – 2 repeats 9 times but after that, it says to ‘work even'(no increases, keeping garter panel as set). Does this mean I will just do the ’round 2′, 10 more times?? Or am I understanding this whole part wrong??
    If you could please clarify that part, I would be very appreciative…thank you!

    • January 25, 2016 12:58 pm

      So, it won’t work to just knit round 2 because that won’t keep the garter panel in place. You need to keep the garter panel in place (knitting 1 round, purling 1 round) and knit all other sts for 10 rounds.

  231. Rachel B permalink
    January 18, 2016 7:10 pm

    You suggest, and I like the idea of placing markers on either side of the garter panel, but I’m confused, because I am to keep knit/purl the same 14sts (for so 6-8), but I continue to increase? Currently I have 16 sts between my markers, but does that mean that I’ve increased properly once, but need to relocate my markers? Also, why is it KFB as 1st st, but kfb is at 2st before marker? Can I k1, kfb, k to two before, kfb, k1 for raglan increase?

    • January 18, 2016 9:43 pm

      Hi Rachel – the panel remains the same. The first increase occurs within the panel on the knit round, but the same 14 sts are purled on the next round. Always the same number of panel sts. If you are placing markers around your panel you want to make sure you are not increasing at them (only at the raglan markers). The reason for the difference in the KFB is how the KFB look, it has the appearance of 1 knit and 1 purl stitch, to make it look properly even the increases are at different moments. If you work a few rounds of the pattern I think you will be able to see it.

  232. Anne permalink
    January 13, 2016 10:51 am

    Hi, I’m at the beginning of Setup round 1. If I kfb into the next stitch, which is the first stitch of the pearl panel, won’t this throw off the panel? Or, to put it another way, are the first increases supposed to be within the panel? Thanks, Anne

    • January 13, 2016 12:35 pm

      Hi Anne – yep, the first increase is within the panel

      • Anne permalink
        January 13, 2016 4:16 pm

        Thanks so much. I figured it out ;-)

  233. Ire permalink
    January 11, 2016 1:39 pm

    Will the XS size fit a twelve year old girl?

  234. Tracey Turko permalink
    January 3, 2016 4:02 pm

    My question is regarding my swatch…….because I will be working with circular needles, should my swatch be done on circulars as well?

    • January 4, 2016 7:50 pm

      Hi Tracey – IDEALLY your swatch should be knit and blocked just like you would block your sweater.

  235. ovie permalink
    December 18, 2015 9:39 pm

    do you have a video for this project? I am still learning knitting,and my english is bad ^^

  236. Sara permalink
    December 12, 2015 6:25 pm

    Please disregard my previous questions about marker set-up – I figured that out.

    But now I am confused about the instructions for the yoke – they look like they are intended for an experienced knitter (even though it says “beginner”) because it seems to be assumed that one knows how to alternate increases and even rows and many other things.
    So, here are my questions:

    It says :
    The Yoke of the sweater is created by increasing (with a kfb) at 8 points on the sweater, 2 sts increased for each sleeve and 2 sts increased on the front and the back. ” After this your instructions say to knit “even” without any increases. Totally confusing.
    1) first off, what are the 8 pts?
    2) kfg adds 2 sts right away. Does it mean that I am supposed to do one kfb per sleeve, per front and per back? If so, on the right or on the left? increases tend to slant to the left or right depending on the type of the increase, don’t they? So, if I keep adding kfb on the left, won’t it be slanted to the left?
    3) Also, based on the instructions it sounds like we have to add 2 sts and then just knit “even” until we get the right size of the yoke. That is, it sounds like I am supposed to do only one round with increases and then just knit “even.” BUt this cannot be right, because in your photo i is obvious that there are consistent increases along the raglan lines.
    So, how does it work? How many rounds of increases? Is increase supposed to be every round? every other round?
    Thank you

    • December 14, 2015 12:04 am

      Hi Sara – The pattern is a beginner sweater, not great as a first pattern over all. It is the 7th pattern in our 8 pattern learn to knit series.
      I think your questions are coming from only reading the tutorial, have you downloaded the full pattern? It gives line by line instructions including how many times to work the increases, how many ‘even’ rounds etc.
      1. The 8 points are on either side of the 4 markers.
      2. kfb only adds 1 stitch (you are knitting into the front and back of 1 stitch, creating 2 sts from 1 st, a net increase of 1 stitch)
      3. Again, I think you need to read through the whole pattern. The number of rounds are in there.

  237. Tavia Riley permalink
    December 9, 2015 2:37 pm

    Hi there! I am stuck after the marker setup. I just finished placing the last marker, but the next step (Setup round 1) says to “kfb, knit to 2 sts BEFORE raglan marker…” does that mean I have to undo stitches from the last step in order to do these stitches before the marker?

    • December 9, 2015 10:34 pm

      Hi Tavia- I’m not sure I understand, you have 4 raglan markers, you are increasing on either side of those markers (on the increase rounds), does that help?

      • Tavia Riley permalink
        December 16, 2015 3:34 pm

        Hi there! Sorry, I was reading the instructions wrong, but I figured it out! Thank you! =D

  238. Katie permalink
    October 8, 2015 2:02 pm

    About how long should by circs be? I’m probably going to go for the adult medium size.

    • October 8, 2015 5:00 pm

      You will need a smaller circ for the collar (I use 16″) and a longer one for the body, 24 or 32 inches

  239. Lucy permalink
    October 7, 2015 5:18 am

    Hi, I am totally confused about how I increase after doing my ribbing.
    I have 96 stitches and have to increase by 54.
    So I do 96/54= 1.7 then I am lost. How do I increase?

    • October 7, 2015 8:47 pm

      Hi Lucy – you can increase every 2 sts and throw in an increase every other stitch some of the time until you have increased 54 sts. It works out to an increase of 9 sts for every 16.

      • Lucy permalink
        October 8, 2015 8:24 am

        Thank you, it all makes sense again now!

  240. Dana permalink
    September 24, 2015 11:20 am

    Hi -Please disregard my previous post. I think I figured some of it out but still do have a question. I had 144 stitches and added 8 in the marker set up. Then I need to add 196 more to get to 344. Round 1 X 12 will add 96. When the instruction says work round 1-2 a total of 24 times, does that mean 24 times each or combined? If combined, should I also have been adding stitches in Round 2 (was that implied by “work as a set?”) and that is where the other 96 stitches come from? Sorry — I have really tried to figure this out and I think I’m in the ballpark of what went wrong, but not able to nail it down.

    • September 29, 2015 6:22 am

      Hi Dana. After adding the 8 stitches, you will have 152 sts. Then you will work rounds 1-2 a total of 24 times (this is a total of 28 rounds). Every time you work round 1 (24 times) it adds 8 sts to the count. 24 x 8 = 192 sts added. 152 + 192 = 344 sts total. Does this clear things up for you? Read round 1 through carefully, you will see that 2 sts are added in each section (front, back, sleeve, sleeve), for a total of 8 sts added each round 1.

  241. Dana permalink
    September 24, 2015 9:37 am

    Hi — Please help! I am a new knitter and thought I was having success with this pattern, knitting the XXL. I counted my stitches at the 144 mark and I had the correct amount. Now, after the 24 rounds of increasing two per section (for 12 of those rounds), I only have 239 stitches instead of 344 as the pattern says. When I do the math for the increases from 144 it looks like 32 in the setup round, and then 96 in round 1, which brings me to 272. Should I be increasing in Round 2 as well? When I add those number the stitch total comes to 368, which still doesn’t match 344. Can you tell me what I’m missing here? Thanks so much!

  242. Kquvien permalink
    July 17, 2015 2:18 pm

    Hi! I am knitting the flax sweater now. First sweater! I have only been knitting 8 months.
    I am totally confused about the sleeve separation and all of the steps that deal with putting waste yarn in the sleeve stitches to casting on before knitting the body. Any help would be lovely.

  243. Anidy permalink
    July 14, 2015 12:02 pm

    Bonjour ce petit pull est t il disponible en français ? Merci

  244. June 28, 2015 5:21 pm

    I just finished my first flax. Now my husband is impressed and wants one too. Mine actually fits him quite well as far as the width of the armholes and body. However it seems tight around the chest under the arms, and almost as if the yoke should be longer. Is there a way to start the collar smaller and do a more gradual raglan line so that there would be more space from neck to under arm? I don’t want to size up because the chest and waist are perfect.

    • June 30, 2015 4:23 am

      For your husband, just knit another inch or so without increasing, so the yoke depth is longer, before you place the sleeve stitches on hold and knit down on the body. You could also start with fewer stitches at the collar (with the stitch count for a smaller size), if he’s looking for a narrower collar. Then you’d still increase to the total desired stitch count for the size you knit. After you separate arms and body, you can have him try it on and see if the yoke fits well. Hope this helps!

  245. June 3, 2015 8:47 pm

    Having trouble with the underarms. Not sure how to do this.

  246. Lizzy permalink
    May 18, 2015 7:03 am

    Hi there, thank you so much for these free tutorials – they are so helpful.
    I have a question about yarn substitution for the Flax sweater. I want to knit one for my husband but he is allergic to wool. Seeing as our second wedding anniversary is coming up, which traditionally has ‘cotton’ as the theme, I wondered if it might be possible to knit this sweater with a cotton/acrylic blend of the same weight? I haven’t much experience at substituting yarn so would appreciate any advice if you have the time.
    Thanks so much for your help! :)

    • May 19, 2015 11:30 am

      Hi Lizzy – you can certainly substitute cotton or a blend, it just might have a bit more stretch to it, and a bit less elasticity. I would do a bit of a bigger gauge swatch than usual and wash and dry the swatch as you would the sweater. That will give you a better idea of what the fabric will do.

      • Lizzy permalink
        May 21, 2015 6:30 am

        That’s great, thanks so much, Alexa.

  247. Eugenia permalink
    April 14, 2015 10:49 am


    I love this pattern since the first time I saw it in Ravelry. Now I’m knitting it for my nephew. I started with the 4-6 years old size but it was too small, so I unravelled it and will start with size 6-8 years old (he’s 4!!!). The body won’t be a problem but sleeves were too tight, and there is just once stitch more in the 6-8 size. Should I knit sleeves with a larger needle, maybe? or can I increase more stitches only for the sleeves? I’m at a loss. Thanks for your help!


  248. Lovelee permalink
    March 30, 2015 12:22 pm

    I love the flax pattern with the stripes (seen on Bodi). Is that pattern going to be available soon?

    • March 30, 2015 9:15 pm

      It’s just a few stripes in the Flax pattern, without garter on the sleeves. So if you want to do it in a worsted weight, go forth an conquer! I DID, however, do this one in a sock weight and the pattern for that will be coming in the next few months.

  249. Ida permalink
    March 9, 2015 11:52 am

    Can you tell me what size you made your little one in the green or teal color. I’m making one now but I’m knitting up a size 1 and loving the pattern.

  250. Susana Rodriguez permalink
    December 22, 2014 10:17 am

    I am trying to understand the Flax pattern and I would like to know what does it mean to change to larger needles after I finish the ribbing (1.5).
    I already got the gauge with neddle #6.
    So for me which is my larger needle? Or do I have to get the gauge with needle #8? Please is there some person that will help me? Thank you very much

  251. Boo permalink
    December 5, 2014 11:31 am

    I am confused here. I am currently learn how to increase after the collar. I have 86 sts and I need to increase 26 sts. I was not sure which one of these I need to increase” M1L or M1R”. Please help me to understand. Thanks!

    • December 12, 2014 9:07 am

      Doesn’t really matter, I did all m1r’s

    • Susana Rodriguez permalink
      December 22, 2014 10:31 am

      May I ask you a question? After you get your gauge and you are going to use needle #8 do you still use neddle #6 for the collar? I am so confused because in my case I get the gauge using #6 so which would be my larger needle?

      • December 23, 2014 10:35 am

        So, if you are getting gauge on #6 needles, that will be your larger needle. Your smaller needle will be a #4.

  252. Arta permalink
    December 2, 2014 11:58 am

    I’m confused about this bit – The Yoke of the sweater is created by increasing (with a kfb) at 8 points on the sweater, 2 sts increased for each sleeve and 2 sts increased on the front and the back.
    I’m knitting the biggest possible size here, which means I measured 17 sts for the sleeve part, but if I use 2 of these 17 to create an extra st by kfb method, than I’ll be left with only 15. And why is it 2 for the sleaves and 1 for the front and back?
    Sorry, if this doesn’t make sense. It’s been years since I last knitted and then I had a teacher.

    • December 3, 2014 5:29 pm

      I think you will find it does work. On the set up round you are ‘using’ one of your garter sts to work an increase but after that the increases will fall in the stockinette portion of the sleeve. There are 2 sts increased per section, 2 for left sleeve, two for the front, 2 for the right sleeve, and 2 for the back.

  253. Mercedes permalink
    November 24, 2014 10:36 pm

    I’m a fairly new knitter, first attempt at a sweater! Love this pattern!!
    I’m on my second attempt, and for some reason, I’ve had to do the opposite of what the pattern says(stitch wise) when setting up the raglan markers for the yoke. Instead of k26, I’ve had to purl(2-4yr size). Any idea why? I don’t have the experience to understand where I’m going wrong! Thank you!

    • December 3, 2014 5:34 pm

      Sorry, I have no insight on this one! You are setting up the raglan markers on the first row and it’s a purl row. Are you working from the most recent version of the Gramps pattern? If you aren’t sure you can either check your Ravlery library (the updated version is there) or email us and we can sort it out.

  254. lauraodonnell permalink
    November 15, 2014 6:24 am

    Thanks so much for this fantastic pattern! Is there a tutorial or instructions on the best way to sew up the underarm hole?

  255. Charlotte permalink
    November 5, 2014 10:11 pm

    After the ribbing part, I don’t understand what you mean by increasing by 4 and etc. Do I just knit the whole thing and increase by 4 or do I follow the marker set up and increase by 4? (I’m doing the 2-4 years old size)

    • November 6, 2014 11:24 pm

      You are knitting the whole round, and increasing 4 sts.

    • jana permalink
      November 24, 2014 10:54 am

      After the ribbing part you split your work in four parts usually i´m using by 52 stiches i´m splitting the part for sleeves back and front like: first 2 stiches increase to 4 and after i count 16 normal stiches than another 2 to 4, than normal stiches 6, than another 2 to 4 and next is also 16 and resst 2 to 4 and finishing the round with 6 normal stiches. i´m not increasing like here, but i make a hole around raglan line. I hope i explained well, english is not my native language ;o)

      note 52 stiches i use for the stronger yarn when i´m using 6-8 mm needle. I´m talking about size, because i did the sweater for almost 3 year old boy.

  256. Cindy permalink
    October 28, 2014 6:26 pm

    Love your patterns! I’m working on Flax now, size Medium. I’m concerned because I’ve needed to knit 19 rounds of straight stockinette after the increases in the yoke to reach the prescribed 9.5 inches. My round gauge is 28 rounds (the pattern says 22 rounds)/4 inches. Is this going to be a problem? Thanks so much for any advice.

    • November 4, 2014 10:28 pm

      Hi Cindy

      I would probably just work to 9 inches. It shouldn’t be too much of a problem, it will mostly be hidden in the underarm. But definitely put in a lifeline (a piece of yarn or thread that is threaded through your live sts, but isn’t knit in) before your sleeve split and try the sweater on after you have knit an inch or 2 of the body. Then you will know if you are going to get a bit of a pouch.

      Alternatively, if you have to go back, you could work disperse the extra rounds within the increase section. You could work 2 rounds even every once and a while while between your increase rounds.

      • Cindy permalink
        November 5, 2014 7:12 pm

        Great suggestions all. I love the support you give to your outstanding patterns. Thank you!

  257. nicole permalink
    October 13, 2014 4:53 pm

    I was hoping you could help me with the sleeve portion of the pattern. I have distributed all of my stitches onto DPNs and i am ready to knit but how do I add the yarn? please help! Thanks!

    • October 17, 2014 2:30 pm

      To join a ball you are just going to start knitting with the new yarn. Put your left needle in the stitch, ready to knit, and put a loop over the left needle and pull the loop through (aka knit the stitch with your new yarn). When knitting the next stitch just be careful not to pull the first stitch out.

  258. Dai permalink
    September 15, 2014 4:28 pm

    The tutorial says that : “If your round gauge matches that stated in the patter, you will need to work 6 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 8, 6, 6, 8, 8,8, 8, 4, 2, 0, 0) rounds even.” Not sure if this might be an error as the pattern says to work rounds 1-2 a total of 7 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 29) times.

    Thank you for this tutorial! Makes getting back into knitting much easier.

    • September 18, 2014 11:04 am

      It means you should work rows 1 and 2 (increase round, work as set) a certain number of times, then work a certain number of rounds even. Glad you like the tutorial!

  259. Nicole permalink
    September 7, 2014 11:14 am

    After a big headache i’ve found the mistake: on this tutorial for the knit increase the second bold # for the size small is 108. Where as on the actual pattern download its 104. Can you refer me to a tutorial where you can take out stitches?

    • September 7, 2014 9:37 pm

      Hi Nicole, sorry, you are correct, I have updated the tutorial page. You should have 104 sts.

  260. Nicole permalink
    September 7, 2014 10:44 am

    Hi, I am currently working on this sweater and I have a question. I am working the Small size and I am at the point where you are suppose to place the marker setup. I have purled 15 PM and then Knit 37 and PM. I then see outside the [ ] it says twice. so I then again purled 15 PM and then knit 37 and PM but i’m left with 4 extra stitches? is that correct? please help, this is my first sweater and i want to make sure i am doing it correctly :) Thanks!!!

  261. Margret permalink
    August 18, 2014 6:27 pm

    Question – for this sweater in S/M, could you please verify: the 3 circular needles suggested (if the knitter’s gauge is correct) are: US#6, 16″ circular needles, and US#8 “32” circular needles, and for the sleeves, US#8 24″ circular needles, and then DPNs in sizes US#6 and US #8?

    What length of DPNs are best for the S/M sizr?

    Thank you!

    • August 18, 2014 10:51 pm

      Hi Margret

      For the sleeves and the collar you can start on the 16″ circulars. For the body of the sweater you can switch to a 24″ or a 32″ circ when there are too many stitches on the 16″, it’s up to you, I knit it on 24″ circs but I don’t mind squishing my stitches on the needle.

      For the DPN’s it’s knitters choice. Longer needles (like 8″) are a little easier to learn on, but I like a short, (5-6″), DPN myself.

  262. July 20, 2014 8:47 am

    Great pattern, and the best kudos for your wonderful step-by-step instructions!
    One question: would the pattern accommodate knitting the garter stitch sleeve stripes with another colored yarn?

  263. Eric permalink
    June 9, 2014 6:45 am

    I am hoping to make two of these for a friend’s wedding present. His wife likes the pattern but would like a v-neck. How could I alter this patter to make a v-neck? Thank you very much.

    • June 10, 2014 10:12 am

      Hello – There’s no easy answer to this one: altering this pattern to make a v-neck would essentially require writing an entirely new pattern… So I’d suggest you find a pattern that already has v-neck shaping included, rather than work with this pattern. Good luck with the wedding knitting!

      • Eric permalink
        July 29, 2014 5:00 am

        I’ve reached the sleeve and have gotten confused. I’ve had to work out my own gauge because my stitches are tighter than yours. When I finish decreasing for a men’s size Large, how long should the sleeve be at that point? Ideally?

      • August 5, 2014 10:08 pm

        It doesn’t really matter, just 2 inches short of your desired length at the longest (if they are shorter than that, that is okay, just keep in pattern until your sleeve is 2 inches short of desired length)

      • Eric permalink
        August 22, 2014 7:03 pm

        How about if i just wanted to make the collar smaller? Pull it in at the shoulders so it’s closer to a true circle? Any suggestions on how I can do that? Thanks

      • August 24, 2014 2:38 pm

        I’m afraid nothing quick. Altering a pattern in such a way really amounts to a re-design, it will involve a little trial and error!

  264. Lucio permalink
    May 10, 2014 7:53 am

    Absolutely lovely explanation, so useful indeed for me. I might be more encouraged now as I’ve never made a sweater before!
    I’d have a question. I do not particularly like the garter panel on the sleeves. I was wondering: can I just go with stockinette stitch all around the sleeves, or would that mess up the pattern?
    Many thanks for your kind attention ;D

    • May 22, 2014 7:27 am

      It will work just fine if you substitute stockinette for the garter stitch panels on the sleeves, good luck with your first sweater!

  265. marsha shartzer permalink
    April 17, 2014 7:47 am

    your instructions are the best! thanks :)

  266. Nancy G permalink
    March 14, 2014 9:20 am

    I’ve just found your web site via Ravelry and I must say it is fantastic. I wish you had been around when I first returned to knitting. However, I know I will be visiting often. I have just placed Flax and Harvest on my list of “Must do”. I will be referring my future daughter-in-law who is a brand new knitter. I’ve not seen better instructions anywhere. Thank you so much for providing free instructions and patterns. You deserve a gold medal!

  267. TheresaW permalink
    February 15, 2014 10:50 am

    Have made a couple of flat-constructed cardigans and, after reading these awesome instructions set, am ready to go for a fast workup with this Flax sweater in the round. Thank you!

  268. 369877412 permalink
    December 26, 2013 11:04 pm

    I love your design

  269. Rachel Mitchell permalink
    November 13, 2013 6:53 am

    I’ve made two of these in the past couple of weeks, and I absolutely loved knitting them. I’ve been knitting for 20 years and I love the simplicity of the construction (I loathe seaming.) The garter stitch section on the sleeves add visual and knitting interest. I whipped up one in a size 4 and another in a size 8 for my two girls in just a couple of weeks. They really like them too, which is great for a 2 1/2 and 5 year old. I think this will be my go-to pattern from now on for their casual play sweaters. I’m planning on making them the snowflake sweaters for Christmas! Thank you for these awesome patterns and tutorials. Your designs are fantastic and practical!

  270. Sylvia permalink
    October 26, 2013 10:02 am

    This is wonderful! Thank you.

  271. October 26, 2013 9:38 am

    Nice tutorial. Wish this had been around when I first started knitting.


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