This is it! It’s the final instalment of our Simple Collection. If you’ve been knitting along with us this is your last project before you go forth and conquer the world of knitting.
If this is your very first garment there are two important things to consider: gauge and fit. Review our tutorial on gauge to ensure your sweater comes out to the dimensions you want, and learn about choosing your size to ensure you get a sweater that fits the way you want it to.
9 steps to knit a Harvest cardigan
- Choosing a size
- Swatching and gauge
- Separate body and sleeves
To get started on your Harvest cardigan you will need:
- Pattern: Download a copy of the Harvest pattern (it’s free!). If a multi-size pattern is new to you, check out our tutorial on pattern reading here.
- Yarn: Harvest uses worsted / aran weight yarn. Check the table to see how much yardage you need for your size and for more information on choosing yarn for a sweater, check out our tutorial here.
- Needles: For a top-down cardigan you will need a circular needle in each size for the yoke and body and either a long circular for the magic loop method or double pointed needles for the sleeves. For sizes XXL-6XL might also want a 16″ circular needle in the larger size for the start of the sleeves. More information on knitting needles can be found here.
Choosing a size
One of the things knitters find most worrisome about knitting garments is getting the sizing right. This depends on 2 things: choosing a size that’s right for you, and achieving the gauge stated in the pattern. For more information on choosing a sweater size, check out our tutorial here.
Swatching and Gauge
The first step for your sweater is a gauge swatch. I know there will be some of you who skip this step, but don’t. A garment is a lot of work and it’s disappointing to find out you’ve put hours upon hours into a sweater…and it’s not the right size at all. Check out our tutorial on gauge and swatching here.
Once you’ve got your gauge sorted and you’ve chosen your size, it’s time to cast on!
The Harvest cardigan is knit seamlessly from the top down. First you are going to knit a band of garter stitch, then you are going to pick up stitches along the edge of this band to begin the yoke. Once you have worked your increases on the yoke you will separate the body and sleeves. The body is knit next in rows to the hem. The sleeves are then picked up and knit in the round to the cuffs.
Using larger needles, 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 20) sts provisionally
Hmm, starting off with something new eh? A provisional cast on means you are going to use a bit of waste yarn to work a special cast on that you will later ‘unzip’ to reveal live stitches. If you’ve never worked a provisional cast on before check out the crochet chain method here, or the needle and hook method here.
Set-up row (WS – wrong side): p2, knit to end
Row 1 (RS – right side): knit
Row 2 (WS): p2, knit to end
Work rows 1-2 a total of 39 (46, 49, 52, 49, 49, 49, 59, 57, 62, 59, 60, 58, 58, 64, 66, 70, 70, 70) times; creating the same number of garter ridges. This is a total of 79 (93, 99, 105, 99, 99, 99, 119, 115, 125, 119, 121, 117, 117, 129, 133, 141, 141, 141) rows worked, including the set-up row. Your final row is a WS (wrong side) row.
Basically we are creating a strip of garter with a stockinette edge on one side. This will be the back neck of the sweater.
Picking up stitches and placing markers
The next portion of the yoke involves picking up stitches along the stockinette edge, placing markers to indicate the garter panels, and unzipping your provisional cast on to give you live stitches.
Next row (RS): knit to last 2 sts, PM, k1, m1, k1 (this is the end of the row), next, turn work 90 degrees, and pick up and knit 52 (62, 66, 70, 66, 73, 73, 88, 85, 93, 89, 90, 97, 96, 107, 110, 117, 117, 117) sts along the edge of the collar 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) stitches in every 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) rows.
This row involves a few new things: m1, PM, pick up and knit. An m1 is an increase, and there are a few methods to make 1 but we used this one. It isn’t critical if you use an m1L or m1R here. PM means place marker. If you are new to using stitch markers check out our comprehensive marker tutorial here.
When picking up and knitting stitches you will not be picking up 1 stitch in every single row, you need to pick up at the rate indicated instead. For example, for the smallest size you will be picking up 2 sts for every 3 rows. So you will pick up and knit a stitch in each of the first two rows, then skip the next one. Pick up 2 stitches in the next two rows, skip the next one. etc.
Finally, undo the provisional cast on (details here), put live stitches onto your left hand needle, and work across them as follows: k1, m1, k1, PM, knit to end.
When unzipping/undoing the provisional cast-on I sometimes find I am one stitch short. This is because the edge stitches can get lost when you undo the provisional cast-on. Not to worry. Simply increase 1 stitch on the next row (you can use a m1) to make sure you have the same number of stitches in each garter panel and the correct stitch count overall.
Now it’s time to place markers (PM), setting up for the raglan increases.
Setup row (WS): knit to marker, SM, p3, PM, p14 (17, 18, 19, 17, 18, 18, 23, 21, 23, 21, 21, 22, 20, 23, 23, 25, 23, 22) sts, PM, p24 (28, 30, 32, 32, 37, 37, 42, 43, 47, 47, 48, 53, 56, 61, 64, 67, 71, 73) sts, PM, p14 (17, 18, 19, 17, 18, 18, 23, 21, 23, 21, 21, 22, 20, 23, 23, 25, 23, 22) sts, PM, p3 (this brings you to the last marker), SM, knit to end.
Your work will now have 6 markers in your work: 4 raglan markers and 2 markers indicating the garter section. In the image below my raglan markers are blue and my garter panel markers are orange. From now on you will be working increases on either side of each of the 4 raglan markers every 2nd row, and increasing at the neckline every 4th row. Always slip your markers as you come to them.
Row 1 (RS): knit to marker, SM, [knit to 1 stitch before raglan marker, m1, k1, SM, k1, m1] 4 times, knit marker, SM, knit to end [8 sts inc]
Rows 2 and 4: knit to marker, SM, purl to last marker, SM, knit to end
Row 3: knit to marker, SM, k2, m1, [knit to 1 stitch before raglan marker, m1, k1, SM, k1, m1] 4 times, knit to 2 sts before marker, m1, k2, SM, knit to end [10 sts increased – 2 at each raglan marker and 1 at each neckline]
Work rows 1-4 a total of 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 9, 9, 8, 6) times.
In row 1 of the raglan increases you are increasing on either side of each of the 4 raglan markers. I like to use a paired increase here, with a m1R before the marker and an m1L after the marker. More on m1 increases here.
In row 3 you are increasing at each front AND on either side of each of the raglan markers. I like to use an m1R at the first neckline increase and an m1L at the last neckline increases.
Follow the raglan instructions for your size. Once rows 1-4 have been completed the required number of times, sizes 3XL-6XL have some faster increases, with one new stitch: the m1p or make 1 stitch purlwise.
Stitch count check
Once all of your raglan increases have been completed there is a stitch count. You can check that you have the correct number of total number of stitches and that you have the correct number of stitches in each section. Next you will work rows 7-10, increasing 1 more stitch at each front.
Separate Body and Sleeves
Now that the yoke is complete you will separate the body and sleeves. The sleeve stitches are put on waste yarn, stitches are cast on for the underarm, and the rest are left for the body. Remove raglan markers as you come to them.
k20 (20, 22, 22, 28, 28, 31, 31, 34, 36, 39, 42, 45, 50, 53, 58, 61, 64, 70) sts (left front), place the next 26 (29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 38, 43, 45, 47, 49, 53, 58, 60, 67, 71, 77, 79, 86) sts on hold on waste yarn (left sleeve), cast on 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14) sts using backward loop method (left underarm), k36 (40, 42, 44, 48, 53, 57, 62, 67, 71, 75, 80, 89, 96, 105, 112, 119, 127, 137) sts (back), place stitches on hold for right sleeve as at left, cast on sts for right underarm as at left, then knit to end (right front).
The sleeves are on hold, and there are 84 (88, 94, 100, 116, 121, 131, 140, 151, 159, 169, 180, 195, 216, 231, 252, 265, 283, 305) body sts on the needles. The first and last markers indicating the garter edges remain in place.
Work one WS row: knit to marker, purl to marker, knit to end.
It’s time for a lot of knitting! The sleeves are on hold, the body will be worked in rows down to the hem, then the sleeves are each picked up and worked last. The garter panels are kept in tact at the fronts and the rest is kept in stockinette. You will continue to work increases at the neckline as indicated for your size.
You will continue neckline shaping until full stitch count is reached, then work even to the garter hem.
Row 1 (RS): knit to marker, k2, m1, knit to 2 sts before marker, m1, knit to end [2 sts inc]
Rows 2 and 4: knit to marker, SM, purl to marker, SM, knit to end
Row 3: knit
Work rows 1-4 a total of 3 (5, 5, 6, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9) times [90 (98, 104, 112, 126, 131, 141, 154, 165, 175, 185, 196, 211, 232, 249, 270, 283, 301, 323) total sts]
To work sleeves you will need to first put all the stitches from the waste yarn onto your double pointed needles, long circular for magic loop, or, for the larger sizes, onto a 16″ circular needle. I like to put my needle through all of the stitches, then remove the waste yarn. Need help knitting a smaller tube in the round? We’ve got tutorials for magic loop method, and knitting on DPNs tutorial.
Knit across these stitches. Then you will pick up stitches from the body of the sweater at the underarm, place a marker as indicated, and you will be ready to work the sleeves in the round.
Knit in stockinette (knit every round) until sleeve measures 2 (3, 3, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 6, 7, 6, 5.5, 4.5, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3)” from underarm.
Note – if you want a longer or shorter sleeve than the pattern indicates, this is the best place to make that adjustment.
Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 [2 sts dec]
Knit 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 7, 6, 6, 5, 4, 3, 3, 2) rounds.
Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 [2 sts dec]
Child sizes will have reached the desired cuff stitch count. Adult sizes have a few more decreases to do.
Adult sizes only: repeat previous 9 (9, 9, 9, 8, 7, 7, 6, 5, 4, 4, 3) rounds 3 (3, 4, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 14, 17, 19, 22) more times.
[26 (29, 30, 33, 35, 36, 40, 41, 43, 43, 45, 45, 46, 48, 51, 51, 51, 51, 52) sts]
Next you’ll work your sleeve to the desired length, switch to smaller needles and work the cuff.
Tip: Making 2 the same
The important thing about knitting sleeves is making 2 the same (sounds obvious right?). So make sure to take notes on the number of rounds you work as you go.
- how many rounds to the first decrease?
- how many rounds after the last decrease but before the garter cuff?
- how many rounds in the garter cuff?
Finishing a sweater can be the most important part. Block your sweater and weave in your ends. There may be a small hole at the underarm, use your tail to sew that up.
You have put a lot of work into your first sweater so don’t skip blocking, it’s an important step. Blocking will make your stitches even out and lie flat and generally ‘smooth out’ your work. It’s easy to block a sweater out of proportion if you aren’t careful, so make sure you have your measuring tape handy and that your chest measurements and length are as desired.
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November 28, 2021 @ 10:20 am
Hello! My first sweater was the Love Note and I’m now attempting to knit the Harvest cardigan. Same question from me: I’m knitting size S but need XL (15.5″) for my upper arms. For the Love Note, Alexa suggested “increase the extra sleeve sts needed in increase round 3, and then take those extra sts into account in the raglan set up round.” But for Harvest I think the extra sleeve sts need to be increased inside the markers for each sleeve. Yes? Instead of 45 sts I need 60 sts for each sleeve at the end of finishing rows 1-4 repeats. My plan is starting row 11 and inside the markers for each sleeve, I’ll do k1, m1 twice, doubling the increases from 2 per sleeve to 4 per sleeve. That’ll be 7 rows x 2 extra increases = 14 sts. I’ll do one extra increase at row 9, outside each of the back markers. Does that sound right? Thank you for the helpful tutorials and this beautiful pattern!
November 29, 2021 @ 3:16 am
Sounds like a reasonable plan, in my opinion! I hope the adjustment goes well :) ~ Em
September 28, 2021 @ 6:04 pm
I am using a yarn that advises: “To ensure random color distribution, work from two balls of yarn at once, alternating a few rows from each ball.” I’m not sure how to do this with the Harvest sweater as the end of rows (where I would switch balls) are garter edges that will be visible and not seamed, so i don’t see how I can carry the yarn. Do you have advice for me?
September 29, 2021 @ 10:10 am
Hi Patricia – Alternating balls is usually recommended with hand dyed yarns. Try alternating balls in a little swatch, to see how those edges will look. If you alternate every 2 rows it shouldn’t show on the edge you are carrying it up, but a swatch will tell you for sure.
September 5, 2021 @ 8:40 pm
I am making the 4to 6 cartigan for my granddaughter but cannot figure out what to do. I have 168 stitches. I would be starting row 7 to 10.. Do I repeat rows 7 to 10 til I have 225 stitches?
September 7, 2021 @ 10:59 am
Hi JoAnn – After you work rows 7-10 once you should have 170 sts.
May 17, 2021 @ 6:15 pm
If I want to use double moss stitch for the collar band, what would the setup row pattern be? Would it duplicate a WS row in the moss stitch 4-row pattern? I still want to keep the ridge definition.
May 23, 2021 @ 11:59 pm
You’ll want the set-up row to be p2, (k1, p1) to end. Then you’ll work a 4-row pattern, keeping the last 2 sts of each RS row as knits (and first two sts of WS rows as purls) (to create the clean pick-up edge). Hope this helps! Emily
December 21, 2020 @ 3:13 am
I’m trying to start on the sleeves but I can’t work out what I’m doing wrong. I go through the loop and pick up the stitches – I knit but end up with a garter stitch! I can’t work out why it’s not working out
December 21, 2020 @ 3:15 am
Thanks mean I put the stitches from the waste yarn onto my needles
December 21, 2020 @ 4:57 am
Hi I’m not really sure what’s happening, you might want to check out this tutorial here on how to pick up and knit stitches? https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/12/24/picking-up-and-knitting-stitches/
November 23, 2020 @ 12:41 pm
I am making Harvest in a size 8-10. I have completed the increases for the yoke and have the correct number of total stitches -193.
Page 4. Do I skip row 5&6 because of the size and go to rows 7-10? I’m confused if I use rows 7-10 for increases after I separate the sleeves. I don’t get how I get to 251 stitches. I’ve made some of your other patterns, but I’m lost on where to go next. Any help would be appreciated.
November 23, 2020 @ 1:36 pm
You would work rows 7-10 next for the 8-10 year size
November 15, 2020 @ 4:46 am
Thank you for your generosity and support.
Can you insract me please, where can i find the instuctions for buttonholes?
November 15, 2020 @ 8:32 pm
Hi! – You can find it here: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2014/01/24/how-to-knit-a-button-band/
November 4, 2020 @ 2:24 am
Hallo Alexa, I am a beginner and wish to make this cardigan for my grand daughter who takes size 4-6 years but I am struggling to identify which size I should use from your chart. Can you help please? I am not very good at reading patterns yet. Thank you for this lovely garment and tutorials.
November 4, 2020 @ 10:41 am
Hi Pat – good news, we posted a tutorial on how to read a knitting pattern here. If your granddaughter wears size 4-6 clothing you can either knit the 4-6 or the 6-8 (I usually knit a size up for extra wear)
November 3, 2020 @ 1:50 pm
I am making sweater in XS. I am working the sleeves. I knit for 7″ from underarm and have done the decrease round. Next it says to repeat previous 6 rounds 11 more times. i am very confused by this. There are no previous 6 rounds. Previously there were 8 rounds and a decrease. I need to decrease 6 more stitches to eventually get to 41 stitches but need your advice. Thank you.
November 4, 2020 @ 10:44 am
Hi Clarice – You will want to make sure you have downloaded the most recent version of this pattern. We changed the wording on the sleeve when we updated the pattern a few weeks ago.
October 21, 2020 @ 7:32 pm
I’m really enjoying the challenge of a cardigan, but I’m a little lost on the instructions for the raglan increases. At rows 1 and 4 the pattern states – knit to marker, SM, k2, m1, [knit to 1 stitch before raglan marker, m1, k1, SM, k1, m1] 4 times – I’m not sure what the ‘4 times’ refers to. I can’t repeat what is before the marker, because I’ve already gone past the marker. I’m a little confused!
October 22, 2020 @ 1:21 pm
Hi Venetia – The ‘4 times’ refers to the instructions in the square brackets.
August 13, 2020 @ 6:06 pm
Thanks for the fun pattern! I am making the adult large and I am not seeing how the front pieces will get to 44 stitches when I make the yoke. It starts with 3 stitches and then you increase one stitch every second row and one every 4th for a total of 9 rows. Shouldn’t I end with 21 stitches?
August 14, 2020 @ 2:11 am
You’ll count the garter edge as well as the stockinette stitches for your total ‘front’ stitches ~ if this doesn’t clarify please send us an email at firstname.lastname@example.org and we’ll take an in-depth look 😀
August 10, 2020 @ 8:26 pm
I am about to start this as my first cardigan! I have a question about knitting the gauge swatch. Should I knit a swatch in the round? (i.e. with floats hanging along the back)? I would guess not, since this pattern seems to have you knit on the wrong side + right side, turning the piece over.
August 11, 2020 @ 2:11 pm
Hi Anna – The sweater is almost entirely knit back and forth so you would want your swatch to be flat.
October 4, 2020 @ 12:26 pm
June 25, 2020 @ 7:15 am
Hi, thank you for your generosity. If I want to add buttons, do I understand correctly if I do it after knitting my 185 stitches (size M)?
June 29, 2020 @ 11:56 am
Hi Sylvie – That’s correct! You want to start the buttonholes after all of the neckline increases have been worked.
April 16, 2020 @ 10:24 am
I’m having a hard time looking at the directions and looking at the first picture that has all the markers in it. The direx say – knit to marker (so that is the orange one) then P3, PM – but there are definitely more than 3 sts after the orange marker until the blue ring marker. So, hesitant to start here when I cannot see how the pictures are lining up with the directions as they seem to be way off.
April 16, 2020 @ 11:36 am
Hi Jennifer – The picture is showing several rows later, once the raglan lines have started to form. It isn’t picture of the markers in the marker set up row.
February 18, 2020 @ 7:04 am
I have a question as to where to start the row when starting each sleeve. If you pick up at the top of the arm, the row differences will be visible. If you start under the arm, then your decreases will technically be on different rows.
I started on the bottom left corner of the sleeve, worked up and around the live stitches, then finished with the under arm. I’m at the point where my decreases should be on the first stitches on the start of the row in order to keep the decrease down the center of of the under arm. Am I over thinking this?
February 20, 2020 @ 1:58 pm
Hi Dee – knitting works a little differently when working in the round, you are technically knitting in a spiral. The BOR marker should be in the middle of the underarm as per pattern, that way your decreases are less visible.
January 18, 2020 @ 4:52 am
I need some help with the garter panel: I’ve tried it about three different times and I always have this weird seam left over after undoing the provisional cast on. It almost looks like knit stitches in between the garter stitches. i don’t know if I’m picking up the stitches in the provisional cast on incorrectly or am just doing the provisional cast on all wrong. I would really appreciate your help, thanks!
February 4, 2020 @ 12:31 pm
Hi Nikki – Hmm, I find if you use the cast on suggested you shouldn’t get 2 knit sts in a row. BUT since that’s what you’ve got, you can put the sts from the unzipped cast on on your RH needle, break your yarn and start the next row with new yarn. That will leave those sts unworked, so there is no double knit row.
June 22, 2019 @ 7:08 am
Hello from Turkey! Harvest is the first garment i have ever knitted and i was so lucky to come across to this pattern and the tutorial. It was so clear and easy. And the fit is just right. I just wanted to say thank you. <3
June 4, 2019 @ 3:16 pm
Just itching to start the Harvest cardigan for my granddaughter, and I am wondering if I can use DK yarn instead of Worsted. I need as little confusion as possible, so perhaps this is not a good idea. How would I adjust? Hoping to knit size 2-4yrs. I’m a beginner and have completed 2 Flax pullovers 2-4yrs with lots of help knitting the sleeves!
June 10, 2019 @ 1:53 am
Hi Penny – You can definitely work in DK yarn instead of Worsted… but if you need zero confusion, you might do better to choose a pattern written for DK instead of Worsted? I could suggest the Boardwalk cardigan: http://tincanknits.com/pattern-TCK-boardwalk.html .
If you do decide to do the adjustment for gauge (it’s not SO difficult!) we have a tutorial here on how that would be worked out: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2016/04/07/how-to-knit-a-garment-at-a-different-gauge/
February 24, 2019 @ 5:53 pm
Thank you for these instructions! This is my first sweat!
I’m stuck on row 1 right after I set up the yoke. I knit to the marker indicating the end of the garter panel. Then, I have 3 stitches before my first raglan marker. The patter says to “knit to 1 stitch before raglan marker, M1 K2, m1”.
But because I’m only one stitch before the marker, where does that knit 2 come from? Do I move the marker?
February 25, 2019 @ 10:30 am
Hi Emma – you have it just right, just slip the marker as you come to it, so it will be m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1 etc.
February 28, 2019 @ 7:35 pm
Okay, thank you!
January 14, 2019 @ 12:11 pm
Hi I’m working the harvest cardigan xl size. I made it to the end of the inc. for the raglan sleeves. I have the correct number of st. for sleeves= 60 and back=96 but my fronts are only 42 each. can I knit inc. only the fronts until I have 49 and keep the back and sleeve st. count the same, or do I need to frog it back?
January 14, 2019 @ 1:59 pm
I would probably just work the front increases more times later in the pattern (the fronts continue to increase), but your fix will work as well
January 1, 2019 @ 2:36 pm
Thank you for the lovely pattern.
I am about to start it with some handspun.
My first attempt at a top-down construction.
I am currently working sleeves on a Guernsey having worked the body and picked up the sleeve stitches. I am finding it a struggle to keep moving the bulk of knitting around.
Is there any reason why I couldn’t work the sleeves before the body in the Harvest pattern?
December 5, 2018 @ 1:31 am
i am knitting harvest in tosh vintage. since the yarn is superwash and stretches during blocking, do i knit full length per instructions, or shy a couple of inches? thank you.
December 6, 2018 @ 11:42 am
Hi Mindy – I think answer is either blocking the sweater as it is (just put your stitches on waste yarn and give it a wash and a block to see how much it grows), or knit it to the cuffs and block it, then you will know if you need to take out a few rounds before starting the cuffs. The nice thing about a top-down sweater is that you can wear it for a week and if you find the sleeves a bit too long you can always just take out the bind off and take the sleeves back and inch or so.
December 3, 2018 @ 10:32 am
Chris on August 24, 2017 said she found the instructions for the raglan section of the yoke in a PDF file. I’m having the same problem but don’t know how/where to find the PDF file.
December 4, 2018 @ 1:05 pm
Hi Victoria – you can find the Harvest pattern on our website (under patterns -> sweater patterns)
August 25, 2018 @ 9:10 pm
I’m a new knitter and the Harvest cardigan is my first sweater. Well, I thought things were going alright and I’m almost done with the collar. I just realized I cast on 20 stitches instead of 16 for the adult large size. What changes to the pattern could I make to make this work for a large size still? Is this possible to go from here or should I just start over?
August 27, 2018 @ 10:06 am
Hi Amy – everything is just fine! You just have a slightly wider garter section. You just need to remember that your garter section is 20 rather than 16, so when you place your marker to delegate the garter panel, yours will be 20 sts in rather than 16.
July 5, 2018 @ 2:53 pm
I’m just trying to figure out when to switch needle sizes in the pattern. If someone can give a tip on this I’d appreciate it.
July 9, 2018 @ 7:50 am
You’ll see at the end of the ‘body’ section, and at the end of the ‘sleeves’ section that you’re instructed to ‘switch to smaller needles’ before working hem and cuffs (on pages 4 and 5). This is so the garter stitch is more firm at that points, and doesn’t flare out.
July 9, 2018 @ 10:57 am
Thank you so much!
June 1, 2018 @ 11:39 am
First time knitting a garment for me.
I just read the instruction on getting gauge.
Wich count should I use? Before or after blocking?
June 2, 2018 @ 7:11 am
Hi Elles – definitely after blocking
April 5, 2018 @ 3:12 pm
I am knitting my first sweater, the Harvest Cardigan. I have been reading in the project notes that people have knitted short rows at the neck and/or shoulders to have the cardigan go up a little higher on the neck. I’m wanting to try this, so I’m wondering where you would do it on this pattern? I’m done with the increases and now ready to work row 5 (middle of page 3) and was wondering if this row is a good place to do it? I’ve never done short rows, but on one of your other pages you have a great tutorial, so I thought I might be able to do it. Thank you!
April 5, 2018 @ 11:45 pm
Hi Janine – for this pattern you probably want to do them right after the pick up, maybe a few sts into the sleeves
April 6, 2018 @ 7:58 am
Thank you very much for your reply!
March 19, 2018 @ 8:54 pm
Hi i am having some trouble with the neck i am doing the size 2-4 how many rows do i knit and how many total do i pick up and knit i am trying to follow the patter but when i get to the set up row i am short stitchs what am i doing wrong how many stitchs should i have for the neck .if i knit 70 i am short i kint it 3 time and i ripped it out i wanted my little girl to wear it for easter.
March 28, 2018 @ 4:04 pm
Hi Delores – I’m sorry, it’s hard for me to say how it’s going wrong. You are working 105 rows in the garter band and after the pick up you will have 96 sts on the needles. Does that help?
November 3, 2017 @ 1:58 pm
Hello, I started the cardigan as it is lovely pattern. Unfortunately, I am having problems with the raglan increases. It says to knit to 1stitch before the marker, m1, k2, m1. If I knit to 1stitch before the marker, how can I knit 2 stitches after m1? Also, it says to repeat this increase 4 times. I placed 6 markers in total. If I follow the pattern, the first increase is at the 2 marker (after the one which separates the garter edge). Do I then not have to increase 5 times? I’m sorry, I’m obviously reading the pattern incorrectly but I really don’t get it (I already unravelled the whole thin a few times :) ). Thanks for your help and the lovely pattern.
November 6, 2017 @ 10:40 am
Hi Kristina – just slip the markers as you come to them, so you are going to m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1 etc.
November 7, 2017 @ 4:01 am
Thanks, should have figured this out myself :)
September 30, 2017 @ 3:17 am
I am having trouble with the set up row of the yoke. I see other knitters have had a similar problem. I’m making L size. I had 131 stitches then knit 17 (to marker), P3, pm, P22, pm, P53, pm, P22, pm, P3, then knit to the end. This totals 137 stitches so I don’t know what to do
October 3, 2017 @ 8:36 pm
Hi – your initial garter band had 16 sts, so when you did the pick up row it should have been k14, PM, etc. This means you will have 14 sts before the marker, not 17. That accounts for the extra 6 sts.
October 4, 2017 @ 12:39 am
Thank you!! I have been able to advance now
August 24, 2017 @ 8:34 pm
Hello, I’m working on the Harvest sweater and have completed the body without issue. I chose to make a large because I like this kind of sweater to fit a little loose, plus I have gained a bit of weight. I’m concerned about the sleeve length. I have found the larger the fit, the taller I should be, but I’m not :). If I want to make the sleeves shorter where/how do you suggest I do that?
August 25, 2017 @ 9:12 am
Hi Janine – In the pattern under sleeves, where is says to Knit in rounds until sleeve measures 2 (3, 3, 5, 5, 6, 6,
7, 8, 7, 8, 6, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2) inches from underarm, that’s where you want to take out a couple of inches.
August 25, 2017 @ 10:42 am
That’s what I was thinking, but didn’t want to mess it up…thanks! I am enjoying this sweater and look forward to making others…and your Gramps
August 22, 2017 @ 6:48 am
I am getting lost finishing the yoke. I am doing the raglan all right, but I do not know how many rows or inches do I have to knit, I get lost when the pattern says: “Follow the raglan instructions for your size.” I search in the different links but I do not find the answer. Can you help me, please?. Thank you.
August 22, 2017 @ 12:05 pm
Hi Cris – you are knitting the Harvest cardigan? Which size are you knitting? You are working the 4 row repeat the number of times for your size, then depending on which size you are knitting you might work rows 5-8 once, then you will separate for the sleeves.
August 24, 2017 @ 7:44 am
Ok, I have found the information!. I was looking in all the links and I could not find it, but the info for the sizes is in the pdf file of the cardigan. Thank you so much!, I am enjoying doing the cardigan a lot.
August 8, 2017 @ 8:33 pm
Hi there, I want to start the Harvest cardigan with some’worsted’ yarn I on vacation. I made my swatch and (unblocked) I get 15 stitches for 4 inches (3.75 st per inch) and 21 rows for 4 inches. I used 5 mm needles and I’ll try the smaller size, but if I can’t get to Guatemala, is it a lost cause or can I try modifying the pattern?
August 9, 2017 @ 10:08 am
Just depends how adventurous you are feeling. With so many sizes it’s usually not too hard to choose a different size for stitch counts and just use the lengths you like for hem to underarm and sleeves. Are you liking the fabric you are getting at 15 sts per 4 inches? It’s possible you are just a looser knitter and need to go down a few needle sizes.
August 10, 2017 @ 2:16 pm
thank for the input. I’m actually a pretty tight knitter. I think I’ll make another gauge block with smaller needles just to see how much of a difference it will be. The yarn is a heavier worsted so I think that its the culprit. But I also think I’ll make the sweater in a smaller size if I can’t get the gauge to match. I’m feeling adventurous :)
thanks for the speedy reply!
August 4, 2017 @ 8:11 am
Your patterns are great, thank you so much for sharing. I am starting the cardigan, I have just finished the collar, I am in the very beginning. I have started with larger needles but I do not know where is the exact point of the pattern where I should change to the smaller ones. Thank you.
August 4, 2017 @ 9:51 am
Hi Cris – they are for the garter at the hem and cuffs
March 31, 2017 @ 4:05 pm
Hi there, is it possible to add increases at the sides of the waist for this (for a little bit of shaping), and if so, would I be able to just use a kfb increase? Also, would you have any advice on how I work out where to put those increases? I am knitting the M/L size (39″ chest”. Any advice appreciated! FYI I am really enjoying this pattern so far, well written and very clear – thank you.
April 2, 2017 @ 8:30 pm
Hi Stella – absolutely, I would do a paired increase at each underarm (m1r, k1, m1l)
March 24, 2017 @ 4:04 am
GOOD MORN, JUST LEFT A COMMENT SO I WENT BACK AND ADDEDUP YOUR NUMBERS AND IT ADDES TO 128 FOR THE 3RD ADULT SIZE I AM MAKING BUT I DON’T HAVE THE LAST P3 IN THE SET-UP ROW, WHERE HAVE I GONE WRONG???? I AM SO INSPIRED BY YOUR PATTERNS AND LOVE YOUR HELP! THANKS SO VERY MUCH!
March 24, 2017 @ 9:30 am
Hi Terry – So you will have 127 sts before the set up row, 14 garter sts on each end and stockinette in the middle. You are going to knit to marker (that’s 14 sts), p3, PM, p23, PM, p47, PM, p23, PM, p3, knit to end (that’s 14 sts), for a grand total of 127 sts.
March 24, 2017 @ 3:57 am
OK I KNOW THIS WILL BE A GREAT SWEATER BECAUSE OF YOUR WORK AND INSPIRATION, BUT I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE HARVEST. IN THE SET-UP ROW I KNIT THE FIRST 16 PM PURL 3 THEN PURL 23 PM THEN PURL 47 PM THEN I DON’T HAVE ENOUGH TO DO THE REST. I HAVE 127 LIKE IT SAID BUT THE LAST 23 AND THEN PUR 3 DOES NOT COME OUT WHAT AM I DOING WRONG??? THANKS SO VERY MUCH !
March 6, 2017 @ 11:07 am
I put the live stitches on the LH needle and followed the instructions. Something went wrong twice. It looks like a knit row followed by a purl row. Do you have any ideas or suggestions?
March 7, 2017 @ 9:35 am
Hi Joan – it might depend on how you worked the provisional cast on?
September 12, 2017 @ 5:54 pm
I have this same problem when I picked up the provisional stitches. I had to purl instead of knit to keep the garter going along the edge. I already frogged twice and started over, ending up both times with the same result.
I don’t want to start over again, but am concerned that if I continue to purl the sweater edge on one side, instead of knitting, I am moving the one stockinette row from the back collar to the front of the sweater near the garter hem on one side. (Although it may be less noticeable there.)
October 23, 2017 @ 7:45 am
It really depends on which provisional cast-on you use; that’s why we link to the crochet chain provisional cast on in our pattern. I think the ‘switch’ involving the extra purl row will not be very noticeable at the hem, that seems like a reasonable solution to me!
February 9, 2017 @ 8:48 pm
As I understand it, I would be working back and forth picking up stitches, pr directions, between the first 2 markers? I am having trouble with this concept.
February 10, 2017 @ 9:42 am
Hi Stephanie – so, the collar is worked back and forth in rows, then you are going to pick up sts along the edge, then unzip the provisional cast on and knit those sts
February 11, 2017 @ 6:50 am
Thanks. After several tries, I think I finally got it.
February 8, 2017 @ 2:27 pm
Hello, Im having trouble blocking the harvest cardigan.Im not sure with the 2 raglan seams,how it should lie?its my first sweater and first sweater block..so….Help!
February 9, 2017 @ 10:07 am
Hi Kelly – I would just lay it flat. Possibly with the garter bands overlapping. It should be just like any other sweater, just lay flat.
January 30, 2017 @ 6:47 pm
I have a question about row 3 of the 4 row repeat after the setup row. It says knit to first marker, k2, m1. Do you do the k2 after the first marker and then do the m1?
January 31, 2017 @ 9:25 am
You got it, you are going to slip the marker, k2, m1
November 3, 2016 @ 9:33 am
If I knit every round for the main part of the sleeve wouldn’t that make it garter stitch? In the photo the sleeves appear to be the same as the body, which is stockinette. But the instructions for the sleeve don’t say to purl the WS.
November 3, 2016 @ 2:24 pm
Hi Jess – the sleeves are worked in the round, so there are no wrong side rows
September 30, 2016 @ 6:35 am
Hi, I’m just about to finish the pick up stitches part, and was wondering if it would turn out alright if I used Right and Left Lift Increases???
Would appreciate your help, and thanks for such a beautiful pattern!!
September 30, 2016 @ 10:55 pm
Yep! It sure will. Increases are knitters choice for sure!
October 3, 2016 @ 6:59 am
Thanks, I’m really struggling, please help… I have picked up along the edge several times, and I’m just not getting it right. I’m not getting the nice knit stitch along the edge on the right side of my work. I don’t know, if by knitting eastern european would affect this or not.
Also, once I knit to the last two stitches, do I pick up along the edge with or without the K1,M1,K1 stitches and leave them for the set up round?
And for last, would I need to knit 2 stitches in between my LLI & RLI?
Sorry for these basic questions but I’m relatively new to knitting top downs and yours is beautiful. Thanks again.
October 4, 2016 @ 6:35 pm
Hi Gloria – I’m not sure I’m understanding the question, you are struggling with picking up the stitches? Which part of the sweater are you knitting?
October 5, 2016 @ 4:55 am
After frogging multiple times I finally got it. Thanks.
July 29, 2016 @ 2:53 pm
Hi, I’m very interested in this pattern. I would like to knit it for my daughter (2 years) and I have already a nice yarn with kind of glow/luminescence. The Problem I have, the yarn is for needles size 7-8 (metric system / German). Any idea, how I could adept the pattern for this yarn? CO number of stitches is quite easy due to just calculate rule of three, I guess. But what about number of rows etc???
August 1, 2016 @ 10:00 am
Hi Nadine – Most of the pattern just has ‘knit to’ lengths so it shouldn’t really be a problem.
June 14, 2016 @ 8:49 am
Hi! This is the first sweater I am knitting and I am working on straight needles – so far just knitting the yoke. Soon I will have to pick up the stitches along the stockinette edge etc….do I need to buy the circular needles to do this? Or can I just keep working on the straight needles? I have a neighbour who’s been knitting since she was 5 and says she always just knits on straight needles….but she has never knit a seamless sweater before, and i am wondering if this makes a difference to using straight vs. circular needles. The instructions and tutorial are FANTASTIC. Thank you SO much.
June 14, 2016 @ 9:36 am
You may be able to knit the body etc. on straight needles, it is just a LOT of stitches once you start the increases, the cord on circular needles makes that a lot easier. The sleeves are knit in the round so you would need DPNs for those.
I personally prefer a circular, even when I’m working back and forth, because when there are a lot of stitches they are evenly distributed along the cord. When working back and forth on straight needles one needle becomes heavier as you go and I find that can affect my tension. When working a sweater in pieces that isn’t really a problem, because there are fewer stitches. That’s just one gals opinion though!
June 14, 2016 @ 1:41 pm
Ok thanks for the quick reply! I will go with the circular!
April 9, 2016 @ 10:16 am
Great pattern with instructions and tips!
Since this is my very first sweater, I’m having a bit of trouble with the picking up of 8 total stitches (Small/Medium) for the underarm and where they connect with the bottom of the raglan stitches. I wind up with two large holes (one on each side at the base of the M1). (With the addition of these 8 stitches, I end up with the 55 as instructed.) Those two holes are really visible. Should I pick up 2-4 more stitches or wait and sew the holes closed?
I don’t mind ripping the sweater apart – it’s good practice for me
Many, many thanks for your help!
April 13, 2016 @ 10:22 am
Hi Ruby – great question! I usually just pick up the number of sts specified in a pattern, but if I think I will get a hole I will definitely pick up an extra stitch on either side, then just decrease them right away on the next round.
March 28, 2016 @ 9:37 pm
The directions are so clear with the exception of when to change needle sizes. I have knit the collar though don’t see directions as to which needles to use to knit the yoke etc. please advise.
March 29, 2016 @ 12:15 am
Hi Debb – unless otherwise specified you won’t change needles, so you only change to the smaller needles for the garter sts at the cuff and hem
March 21, 2016 @ 5:10 am
Hi, thanks for your tutorial, but I’m wondering about the measurement of the garter stitch for the back, how low must this be aprox?
March 22, 2016 @ 9:55 am
It isn’t really critical, because it will fall in line when you pick up sts for the back. The length is determined more by the stitch gauge of the stockinette rather than the row gauge of the garter band.
March 24, 2016 @ 7:29 am
Excellent, thank you very much
March 28, 2016 @ 5:29 am
Me again, this is my first time knitting a raglan cardigan, did the garter border. I’m knitting the large size, where I have to have a 16 st to start with. But I got really confused when I did the knit to last 2, k1,pm, k1 and turn 90° your work…
I ended up with 14 stitches at the beginning and 14 stitches at the end, not the initial 16 stitches. I did end up with all the stitches suggested for this size but have I done something wrong? By the way, my provisional cast on was a disaster and had to rip the whole thing up!!! :(
March 29, 2016 @ 12:17 am
Hi Gloria – you are a-okay, because you are placing a marker 2 sts before the end of your 16 sts you will have 14 sts. All is well
March 29, 2016 @ 6:48 pm
Thanks for clarifying and sorry for asking so many questions
March 16, 2016 @ 12:07 am
Thank you so much for offering simple collection with helpful tutorials. I love Flax sweater! (though its hibernating at the moment…ahem… ; ) ) I am wondering…is there a way to make this Harvest with sport/DK yarn? I have stash yarn I really need to do something with…and also knitting cardigan with yarn like DK could provide almost all season garment for where I am… My gauge is pretty close to the one for the Flax light…22sts and 32rows…(I realize why not Flax light? I just think cardigan might be more versatile…don’t mean to sound too picky…) I am or will be knitting this as a gift for my niece…whose chest measurement is 22inches… If you could please give me some ideas…I’d be very appreciative. Thank you for what you do…
March 16, 2016 @ 10:52 pm
It is certainly possible, you would want to measure your gauge and choose a different size. You would follow the stitch counts for that size, but the lengths for the actual size you want. Does that help?
February 18, 2016 @ 1:53 pm
Thank you! I have already knit a baby-sized cardigan to try it out and now I’m making one for myself.
There’s just one question I have: I would like more than one buttonhole. Is there a way to figure out how many buttons I should use and how to space them, seeing as I don’t know yet how many rows I will have knit in the end?
February 22, 2016 @ 2:42 pm
Hi Maria – I find it best to decide on the button spacing, then purchase my buttons. That way my buttons will be just the right spacing for me. I usually like more buttons to avoid and gapping at the bust. Anywhere between 1.5 and 3 inches will work though, it’s just a matter of preference.
February 14, 2016 @ 8:10 pm
I have a question about knitting the yoke: would it be possible when knitting the WS rows to slip the first stitch, in order to make it a little looser and easier to pick up later? When you link to the separate tutorial on picking up stitches you use your sock pattern as an example, and in that pattern the first stitch of each row is slipped. Having used that pattern before (my first socks- they turned out great!), I feel like it was a lot easier to pick up the slipped stitches, and the resulting edge was neater. Would the same be possible for this pattern?
February 22, 2016 @ 2:50 pm
Hi Nicole – if you slip the first stitch of each row you won’t end up with enough stitches to pick up from so it won’t work here.
November 18, 2015 @ 4:57 am
I avoid using dpns if at all possible, any reason why I can’t use magic loop on the sleeves. Love the pattern and the tutorial!
November 18, 2015 @ 10:01 am
Hi Mary – yep, you can magic loop pretty much anything that is done on DPNs!
November 12, 2015 @ 1:48 am
For the yoke and picking up rate, I am a bit confused. During the knitting of the stockinette stitches do you do the pick up rate while or knit the whole yoke then start the pick up rate?
November 17, 2015 @ 10:31 am
Hi Aubrie – I’m sorry, I don’t understand the question….are you talking about picking up sts from the garter strip you knit at the start?
November 20, 2015 @ 1:36 pm
Yes, picking up stitches from the garter. I figured it out along the lines of what a pick up rate is.
September 25, 2015 @ 5:19 am
I just finished up the Flax sweater. These are the best patterns!!! I am wondering if it is possible to add a hood to this cardigan?
September 29, 2015 @ 6:17 am
I’m sure you could add a hood by picking up and knitting one up from the neckline. I haven’t designed (or knit) a hood before, you might want to study other patterns to figure out how they are constructed. Good luck!
Sweater Techniques Series – Gramps Baby Cardigan – 1/6 – Introduction | Tin Can Knits
August 18, 2015 @ 1:27 pm
[…] each one is quite simple and easy to accomplish. If it still seems like too much, try our Flax or Harvest sweaters, 2 of our free patterns from our learn to knit series, The Simple […]
May 1, 2015 @ 12:22 pm
I’m a little confused when it comes to the raglan increase portion of the yoke. I’m comparing to the steps/photos you list here before I attempt knitting it, so I don’t have to keep starting over. When you refer to “raglan” markers, you’re only talking about the blue stitch markers, correct? So you would only do the raglan increases before and after the four blue markers, and not the two orange ones? How does this account for the different stitches before and after the orange markers? In the image above, it almost looks like you’re doing the same raglan increases 6 times at each marker.
May 5, 2015 @ 9:13 am
Hi Nicky – nope, there are no increases at the orange markers, they are just there to indicate the garter border. Eventually there are increases at the neckline. It must be an illusion in the pic
April 3, 2015 @ 8:33 am
On this pattern do you have to use this method of cast on?
Also, is it possible to modify it a tad so that the sweater will fall three or so inches below the hip? If not I’ll just follow the pattern as intended; I am a fairly new knitter so I’m not incredibly good at making edits like that.
April 3, 2015 @ 1:14 pm
Yep, definitely use a provisional cast on, that way you can unpick it later for a smooth join at the back neck. To make it a bit longer, just keep knitting! Since this sweater is knit from the top down you can just work the body longer. Happy knitting!
February 1, 2015 @ 8:05 pm
I’m using your sugestion of using M1r before a marker and M1L after a marker, but it isn’t specified which increase to use on the neckline increases. I’ve done a few in M1L, but I want to make sure if that is best.
February 4, 2015 @ 11:49 am
I used an M1r at the right neckline and an m1l at the left neckline. The decreases then slant with the neckline.
December 31, 2014 @ 5:28 am
So.. I’m a beginner and Dutch speaking and no hero at working by plan so .. with the collar “the collar is knit sideways.Using larger needles, CO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14,” Do I have to use a pair of larger needles to knit the collar or just to cast on stitches? Thank you
January 5, 2015 @ 6:32 pm
You will be using larger needles to knit the collar. The smaller needles are for the hem and the cuffs
August 20, 2014 @ 10:12 pm
I am guessing I have found this much later than anybody else! it looks lovely, especially for someone like me who hates the look of he ribbing that a lot of cardigans and jumpers usually have. Yours is so clean looking and elegant!
I do have a question as well. I have noticed that in a few places it looks like the numbers do not increase with the increased sizes. For instance, in the box right below the paragraph where we are told to place the markers for the raglans, the numbers for the first few adult sizes go 23, 21, 23, 21, 21, 22. I see this happening in many other places in the pattern, and I am just going to go with it, but it’s the first time that I come across a size XS having more stitches/rows than a size S and was wondering how come. Thanks!
August 24, 2014 @ 2:36 pm
It just depends, you need to work different numbers for different sizes and there will be more sts/rows in some places to make the numbers work.
July 27, 2014 @ 2:13 pm
Not sure about this instruction….Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Knit 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 7, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5) rounds.
Do you do one round of decrease and then 8 rounds without decreases?
August 5, 2014 @ 10:09 pm
Yep, you got it. One decrease round, then a number of plain rounds, depending on your size.
Müts ja kampsun… Titele. | Heidekudumid
March 29, 2014 @ 3:49 pm
[…] Kudumisõpetused KnitRowan Pixie Hat ning TinCanKnits Harvest Cardigan. […]
March 3, 2014 @ 4:34 am
In Norway, yarn weight is measured by how many metres of yarn you get per skein (each skein usually being 50 g). A relatively thin 3-ply yarn I’m currently using (double yarn to knit “Wheat”) is 50 g ≈ 150 m.
How does the yarn suggested in this pattern measure this way?
March 14, 2014 @ 4:08 am
The pattern suggests about 400 yards or approximately 365 meters
February 26, 2014 @ 1:55 pm
Thank you so much for the free pattern and excellent tutorials. I am what you might call an “advanced beginner”, and this was my first sweater knit. It turned out great and I am very happy with it. Thanks again!
December 27, 2013 @ 4:31 pm
I know that pattern call for Madeline Tosh Vintage, but thought I ‘d check to see if that is what is shown in this tutorial. I would also love to know the colorway – it’s ymmy!! Thanks and love your creative take on simple patterns!!
January 23, 2014 @ 5:53 pm
The colour is Esoteric and it IS yummy. The sweaters featured in the pattern are Glazed Pecan and Silver Fox.
December 26, 2013 @ 12:10 am
Thank you very much. These tutorials are clear, detailed, really well written. Excellent work.
December 24, 2013 @ 3:36 pm
Thank you, thank you, thank you for a wonderful year if knitting and marvellous tutorials.
My first year of retirement is going to be a knitter’s delight using your patterns.
Wishing you all a very Happy Christmas and a wonderful New Year full of good health and exciting times.