Charts are graphic representations of knitting instructions. They are a compact way to illustrate more patterns that would take much more space if described in text instructions.
Charts also illustrate how a lace, colourwork, or cable pattern will look once it is knit up, and this means that when you use charts, it is easier to see where you are in a pattern, and identify errors early.
After a bit of practice, most knitters find working from charts much more intuitive, quick, and simple than working from line-by-line text instructions.
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This tutorial covers:
- Introductions to charts
- Right side and wrong side rows
- How to knit from a chart
- How chart repeats work
- How to read a lace chart
- How to read a colourwork chart
- How to read a cable chart
The basics – each square is a stitch, start with the key
In a chart, each square represents a knitting stitch, similar to the way that each abbreviation in text instructions does (for example k2tog or p1). The first thing you should check when you start knitting from a chart is the key or legend, and chart notes if they are included. This will explain which symbols represent which kind of stitches. Often, an empty square means to knit the stitch, and generally, a yarn-over will be represented by an O in the square. However, each designer may have a different format and set of symbols. Once you understand the meaning of each of the symbols, you can proceed to knitting the chart.
Are all rows shown… or just the RS rows?
Charts will either show all rows (or rounds) or only illustrate one side of the work, usually the right side. If the chart shows only right side rows, text instructions will be given for how to work the wrong side rows. The omission of wrong-side rows is common in lace charts, because many lace patterns are simply purled on wrong-side rows. As you can see from this illustration, the structure of the lace pattern shows up much more clearly when the wrong-side rows (which aren’t conveying much information) are removed.
But how do I actually knit following a chart?
Once you’ve reviewed the key and chart notes, and determined whether all rows are shown, or just the right-side rows, you can get started knitting from the chart.
Typically, for right side rows, you will work the stitches one at a time from RIGHT to LEFT.
So where only right side rows are shown, this means that you read each row shown in the chart from RIGHT to LEFT. To work the wrong side rows, follow the instructions given in the text or chart notes.
If the chart shows BOTH right side and wrong side rows, you will work the RS rows from RIGHT to LEFT, and the WS rows from LEFT to RIGHT.
If you think of the chart as a picture of the finished fabric taken from the right side of the work, this makes sense, as the RS rows are worked one stitch at a time from right to left, and the WS rows are worked from right to left too… but on the opposite side.
A careful reading of the chart key is crucial in this case, because often chart symbols are worked in one way on the right side of the work, and in another way on the wrong side of the work (for example, knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side).
What are the heavy lines?
Commonly, stitch and row repeats are indicated by heavy lines (or boxes) in the chart. This is similar to the use of brackets in text knitting instructions. So you would work the edge stitches one time, then work the ‘repeat’ stitches as many times as possible (always reading the set of instructions from right to left on right side rows), before ending with the edge stitches at the end of row.
What do I do when I get to the end of the chart?
After you’ve worked the last (top) row of a chart, you would typically begin again at the bottom at row or round 1, if the stitch pattern is repeated several times. The text pattern instructions will let you know how many rows / inches to work following the chart.
If you’ve placed markers at each pattern repeat you made need to remove and re-place them when you start the chart over again.
How to read a lace chart
Lace patterns are often described only in charts, as they may have large stitch and row repeats can make writing out (and reading) lace patterns quite cumbersome.
At Tin Can Knits, 90% of our lace patterns use charts that only illustrate the RS of the work, because we find these types of patterns much more intuitive, simple and satisfying to knit.
Of course, there are always exceptions to this rule, and when both sides of the work are charted, you will work the RS rows from right to left, and the WS rows from left to right, making sure to check the key so you understand how stitches are worked on the RS vs the WS of the work.
How to read a colourwork chart
Fair-isle stranded colourwork is usually worked in the round, so that the RS of the work is always facing, you are working the knit stitch most of the time, and you can easily see the pattern forming as you work it. However, there are some exceptions to the rule in which colourwork is worked flat (in rows). Either way, charts for colourwork patterns will generally illustrate every round (or row).
If the pattern is to be worked in the round, then you will read every round from right to left.
If the pattern is to be worked flat, then you will read the right-side rows from right to left, and the wrong-side rows from left to right (in the opposite direction); in order for the pattern to form as designed.
As fair-isle colourwork is typically stockinette stitch (knitting all sts on the RS, purling all sts on the WS), the chart key will typically describe which colours to work each stitch with, rather than the kind of stitch to work. So when you see a square that corresponds to CC1, you will knit one stitch with contrast colour #1.
How to read a cable chart
Cable charts may either show every row or round, or show only right side rows, with instructions for ‘keeping in pattern’ given for the WS rows (typically you would knit the knits, and purl the purls).
One special feature of cable charts are the symbols for cable turns. Cables are worked over more than one stitch, so the symbols for cable turns are more than one stitch wide. As you can see from the antler cable below, c4b and c4f – cable 4 back and front – are worked over 4 stitches. Be sure to review the chart key before you cast on!
Practice your chart reading skills with these Tin Can Knits patterns:
Lush Cardigan
Marshland
Oaken
Love Note
Sunshine Hat
Antler Sweater
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February 7, 2022 @ 10:23 am
Thank you for your help in reading charts. I recently purchased a download pattern and couldn’t find much help in reading the chart. You answered all my questions.
January 28, 2022 @ 8:46 am
I’m knitting a baby sweater in 12 month size. The pattern chart has 13 stitches which are to be repeated. The instructions for my size say to complete 15 stitches on the chart. I’ve never seen this before. What to do?
January 28, 2022 @ 9:49 am
Hi Susan – I’m sorry, I’m really not sure what the designer intended there
January 23, 2022 @ 10:59 am
I’m working on the LINES mittens pattern and have figured out the charts, except the thumb gusset. With the M1 instructions, does chart B show all stitches for that section, or just the center portion? So for round 2 is it K1 (main color), K1 (contrast color), K1 (main color) and then on to chart c? Or is it actually K2 (main color), K1 (contrast color), K2 (main color), and then on to Chart C?
January 24, 2022 @ 2:27 am
Hello – this is a bit of a complex question, could you send us an email (that’s our best method for pattern support) at tincanknits@gmail.com and we’ll answer you that way? Thanks ~ Emily
January 12, 2022 @ 8:45 am
I am trying to knit shiversome snowmen and do not understand the chart
January 12, 2022 @ 10:42 am
Hi Pat – I’m sorry, that’s not one of our patterns and I haven’t knit it so I can’t really say how the chart works.
December 19, 2021 @ 11:17 am
Hello I am confused by Sl1 k2tog psso. This symbol is shown on just one square of the grid but affect 3 stitches in total. How does this work.
December 21, 2021 @ 9:35 am
Hello Michelle – this chart symbol is shown as a single square because after it is worked, you end up with just a single stitch. It transforms three stitches into a single stitch. We also have a tutorial on how to work the stitch if that’s useful: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2014/06/06/sl1-k2tog-psso/
December 19, 2021 @ 10:17 am
Hi, I’m working on the Edith Shawl Novita Venla, I was fine when I read, “Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work 2 sts at the right end of the cable section following row 1 of chart I (= 2sts + 1st) and the other sts following row 1 of chart II” where I hit a wall was with the instructions that came after ” work rows 2-60 of chart I. Work rows 2-20 of chart II and then repeat rows 1-20.” I’m not sure if it means that I combine chart I and II like I did at the start of the row. Hope i’m making sense :D
December 21, 2021 @ 9:36 am
Hello – unfortunately we can’t provide pattern support on patterns we aren’t the authors of! I’d suggest you contact the designer directly. Best luck! Emily
November 21, 2021 @ 3:43 pm
Very helpful, thanks.
November 10, 2021 @ 9:19 am
hi, confused with the term “set up round” is it the instruction for later or am i to do the set up round 1st and then continue with the instructions. In your “world’s simplest mittens” at the THUMB GUSSET section,it starts with set up round and then goes to Round 1 and 2 so….. now i am confused and this might be a very stupid question ,hope you can help
November 10, 2021 @ 9:27 am
Hi Joy – set-up means that round is setting you up for future rounds, usually with a marker placement or establishing a stitch pattern. It is also to separate it out from any repeated instructions.
November 9, 2021 @ 3:19 pm
The chart instructions I’m following say “work A1 chart in the round 27 repetitions of 6 stitches. The bottom of chart starts with 6 inches and after about 8 boxes high x 6 stitches there is a increase so next section has 8 boxes in the row . Fir the next 8 or so rows of boxes going up and then increases to 10.
My question is do I follow the whole chart with increases for the 27 times or just the 6 stitches section ? Wish I could put a picture . The pattern is Drops Enchanted evening dress . It is a free pattern easy to find on line . The chart is for the knots . Thanks for any help
November 10, 2021 @ 9:28 am
Hi Debbie – It sounds like you’ve got it right, you are repeating the whole chart. As the chart increases the repeats will increase, so it starts with 6, then increases to 8, then 10.
November 2, 2021 @ 2:59 pm
Hello! I’m knitting the antler mittens and a newbie with reading charts. When you instruct to “work the chart” before the gusset I am thinking starting the chart again. When I get to the gusset round 1 , would that be the third row of the chart?
I’m trying to figure out Work the Chart.😊
Thank you!
November 3, 2021 @ 9:50 am
Hi Lori – No matter what else is happening in the mitten you are always working the next charted row, does that help?
September 25, 2021 @ 7:41 am
I am knitting a fair isle vest and I am a little confused as to how I follow the chart when I start the decreases for the armhole. Could you give me a little advice on this? Thank you so much.
Mary Dennis
September 27, 2021 @ 1:50 am
I don’t have any knowledge of your specific pattern, so I can’t speak to that. However, often, as you decrease, the chart will be impacted as you knit less stitches, but the key is to keep patterns aligning on top of one another.
August 24, 2021 @ 3:38 pm
I’m knitting the lines mittens and the first row chart B says M main color, knit one main color, then M main color…..so is the whole row done without using the contrast color? Also, the square beside M – is that the new stitch you just made? Or is it knit a stitch?
August 26, 2021 @ 12:11 pm
Hi Debra – Yep, the first row of chart B is all MC. The 3 sts are m1 in MC, knit 1 in MC, m1 in MC
August 15, 2021 @ 2:04 am
I’m knitting the marshland sweater and enjoying it. I see the letter M on some of the charts – checked the abbreviations but can’t find out what it means?
August 16, 2021 @ 1:53 pm
Hi – It’s in the key. It means you are going to make 1 stitch in that colour.
July 30, 2021 @ 12:42 pm
I am knitting a lace sweater, Jody Long “Lena Bolero.” The chart has dark colored lines for each size, 2 lines each. When I count the boxes for my size there are only half as many as needed. It would appear that I should knit each lines twice but there are no instructions to do so. I’m my very confused. Help!
August 3, 2021 @ 3:56 pm
Hi Freda – Sorry, I’m not sure what to do without seeing the pattern. Have you tried contacting the designer?
May 12, 2021 @ 3:33 pm
Hi, I am having a hard time with a Mary Maxim vintage jacket pattern. No 98578-9N. i have managed to do the colourwork and having difficulties with the decreases at the back and on the sleeves. Not sure if I am to decrease at each end of the the row. The chart seems to have one extra row on the right side. Not getting much help from MM. Thanks
May 13, 2021 @ 1:30 pm
Hi Sarah – I’m sorry, I can’t really say what the issue is without looking at the pattern.
April 27, 2021 @ 6:34 am
knitting a lace and cable sweater..buttonhole knitting instructions for RS row need instructions for second rowso the border pattern is not distroyed
April 18, 2021 @ 4:27 pm
I am trying to figure out what ‘no stitch’ means when reading a chart. This appears in the pattern repeat. The pattern I am using is Fionas Top and the ‘no stitch’ appears in chart B and B1.
Thanking you in advance for your help!,
April 19, 2021 @ 12:28 am
Hello – I’m not sure about that specific pattern, however, when ‘no stitch’ appears, it literally means that there is no stitch worked in that square, you will simply pass directly to the next stitch on the chart, working it on the next stitch on your needles. The symbol is included in charts so that, visually, the rows of a chart line up one on top of the next in an intelligible way, even when the stitches-per-repeat differ from one row or round to the next. ~ Em
April 18, 2021 @ 12:16 pm
Thank you for the clear explanation and examples on how to read a chart. I was intimidated by the thought of making a shawl from a chart. After reading your explanation I feel empowered and confident I can handle a chart.
April 19, 2021 @ 12:29 am
Congratulations! So glad to hear the tutorial was useful, charts become more useful and intuitive the more you practice with them. ~ Em
April 10, 2021 @ 1:24 pm
I’m knitting the Interlaken sweater by Fiona Ellis, this us my first time using a chart , the chart starts with 5 sets on the left side before a rep and 6 on the right side there are inc every 8 rows. Now I have 11 sets on the left and 12 sets on the right how do I know what color to start with the chart stops with 10 sets on each side of the rep
April 11, 2021 @ 2:03 pm
Hi Beth – I’m sorry, I can’t really give you an answer on this one without seeing the pattern itself. You might want to try contacting the designer.
April 7, 2021 @ 7:17 am
Thank you for this tutorial on reading charts, it has been very helpful! I still struggle but am trying to work through this mental block I have with carts😳
April 5, 2021 @ 1:42 pm
Hello!
This was very written very clearly and so helpful – thank you! I am new to chart knitting and need help please! I am knitting a shawl, pattern is called Interlude by Shannon Dunbabin (for Cascades Rosyln). In some of her patterns that are knitted flat, all numbers are on one side – the right side. My question is when you are knitting on the wrong side, do you read the pattern left to right OR right to left since the number is on the right? I may have to undo 70+ rows depending on the answer.
April 6, 2021 @ 10:32 am
Hi Beth! I would assume left to right, reversing the symbols, but I can’t be 100% sure. If that info isn’t in the chart notes you may want to contact the designer to see what they intended.
April 6, 2021 @ 1:09 pm
Thank you so much for your feedback Alexa! Have a great day!
February 25, 2021 @ 4:34 pm
Why are there “blocks” missing on the rows prior to rows with increases? Do you just skip those because you haven’t increased yet?
March 1, 2021 @ 1:53 pm
Hi Susan – Yep, there are no sts to fill in those areas yet so they are blank. Just skip over them
February 23, 2021 @ 2:18 pm
I feel incredibly stupid. But I just can’t get the repeat box. I understand that you’re supposed to repeat those stitches…like 5 times for the Gothic Cowl…8 times for another pattern I have. But where do those stitches come from? I don’t have enough cast on to make them. I’m sorry. I just don’t understand it.
February 25, 2021 @ 12:18 pm
Hi Cynthia – Hmm, you should definitely have enough sts to work the repeats. Do you mind dropping us an email with your specific pattern question? We are happy to help, it’s just a little easier to follow the plot via email. tincanknits@gmail.com
February 8, 2021 @ 11:12 am
How do you read the chart if you work the chart, k1, work the chart if the two sides of the chart are slightly different when you knit the 2nd chart side. example: my chart has K3tog on one end and Knit in front and back on other end?
February 10, 2021 @ 2:08 pm
Hi Margaret – I’m sorry, I don’t totally understand the question? It’s hard to say without seeing the actual chart.
February 5, 2021 @ 12:05 pm
How would I follow the Valentino Drops design dog sweater chart? There are more stitches on the needle than a row on the chart. Also, it is worked in the round. I’m doing the smallest size which is on double pointed needles.
February 5, 2021 @ 1:31 pm
Hi Melissa – I’m sorry, I can’t really say, I haven’t knit the chart and it isn’t one of our designs.
January 10, 2021 @ 10:50 am
I’m knitting in the round, the pattern shows large areas with no stitch indicated. I’m not a newby, but I am confused. What do I do with the no stitch ?
January 11, 2021 @ 6:17 am
Typically this means there are not stitches here, just skip to the next square that has a stitch / instruction, and work that. This kind of convention is used in charts when the stitch count changes from row to row.
January 7, 2021 @ 9:40 am
Hi Emily! I’m knitting my first pair of mittens (Norwegian) and am struggling to understand how to understand the pattern to make increases for the thumb gussets: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/norwegian-mittens-for-mimi. For the first row, do I increase 4 stitches on either side of the thumb beginning (and that’s what the blank spaces on the chart mean)? Or do I increase elsewhere? Very confused by the lack of notation in this pattern!
January 8, 2021 @ 12:20 pm
Hi – Sorry I’m not totally sure from the pattern what the best way to work the increases is. I would use an m1 on either side. You might try asking the designer what they had in mind.
December 9, 2020 @ 9:15 am
Are the left side numbers always the wrong side? I am knitting a flat lace chart where the number one row is on the left. Thank you for being so helpful with your explanations!
December 9, 2020 @ 11:24 am
Hi Pam – That would usually indicate that it starts on the WS, read left to right.
December 3, 2020 @ 3:26 pm
Hi I am knitting Kits Kerchief and on line 1 of Chart B I am suppose to do a k1-yo-ktbl. I understand what it is saying but I am not sure about how to throw the yarn over
So my question is how many stitches am I suppose to have when I complete this stitch. 1,2,or 3?
Thank you
December 3, 2020 @ 9:23 pm
Hi Dawn – You should have 3 sts (all coming from 1 stitch) when you have completed that one.
December 5, 2020 @ 6:10 pm
Thank you
November 25, 2020 @ 8:49 am
Hi
Is there anyone out there who will actually convert a graph pattern to a written version ?
Find graphs very difficult to follow as I have a form of dyslexia.
November 23, 2020 @ 1:10 pm
Hi.
I’m knitting the Tortoiseshell shawl. In lace section when done with first row 1-6 and starting over on row 1 in the chart. How do I do that? I have 11 stiches and pattern has 5 sts before first “12 sts repeat”. How do I work these 11 st? I don’t get it.
November 18, 2020 @ 1:47 pm
I am knitting the Compass pullover and working in chart B. I have not got the gist of the increase rows 4/11/22. I am 36 stitches short after row 22. Could you please explain how the increases are inserted? I’m using KFB method.
Thank you. Getting a bit frustrated. I had no problem with the increases in set-up row.
Beautiful pattern.
November 18, 2020 @ 9:33 pm
Hi Molly – You will want to use a different increase method. A kfb is special because it ‘uses’ a stitch to make one, you want to use a method that just makes 1 (try this method here: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/m1/ )
November 15, 2020 @ 9:20 pm
My pattern says start at stitch 1 on chart and work to stitch 68 and then work at 20-70.
Then it says to continue in this manner all the way to end of chart. On the second row do I do the reverse? Work 70-20 and then 68-1???
Very confused.
Thanks- Glenda
November 16, 2020 @ 8:50 am
Hi Glenda – I’ve not seen this kind of convention before, but it sounds like the chart ‘repeat’ is the section from stitches 20 through 70. As this isn’t one of our patterns, I can’t help specifically. Perhaps you can contact the designer or pattern publisher for help? Good luck! ~Em
November 15, 2020 @ 4:35 pm
I have a chart for flat knitting where all row numbers are on the right side of the chart. Do I just read each row left to right? Thank you
November 15, 2020 @ 8:33 pm
Hi Jodi – Usually if it’s knit flat you would work the RS rows right to left and the WS rows left to right. But it’s odd that the row numbers are all on the one side. Hopefully the chart notes will give you some clues?
November 1, 2020 @ 11:16 am
This will sound goofy, and I’m a very experienced knitter, but now I’m working on a charted piece that ends up with a V shaped bottom. I never had any trouble working on an evenly shaped piece, but this one is different for me because it tapers down on both sides. For the life of me, I can’t get it to knit “right.” Are cable charts read from top to bottom or bottom to top?
November 4, 2020 @ 10:47 am
Hi Jo – Sorry, I’m not much help without seeing the actual pattern. Charts are usually read from bottom to top.
November 1, 2020 @ 8:03 am
This was all very informative thank you. I have a chart that has big blank spaces between the motifs. It is not marked as stitches, there are no written instructions. What do I do when I finish a marked stitch section and then hit this large blank section, then the stitch pattern continues about an inch later, etc? It is a mosaic knitting chart. Thanks for any help you can give me.
November 4, 2020 @ 10:48 am
Hi Kimberlee – I’m not really sure without seeing the pattern, but usually the ‘space’ is inserted for clarity and you should just go to the next charted stitch.
October 27, 2020 @ 12:08 pm
I am knitting Norwegian mittens and have finished the mitten for the right hand. Do I now read the chart from l to r instead of r to l in order to make the thumb gusset for the left hand mitten?
October 28, 2020 @ 2:19 pm
Hi Mindy – usually charts are read from right to left, because they go in the same order as your stitches are knit
December 27, 2020 @ 4:33 am
I am having the same issue as Mindy. I have finished the right hand Norwegian mitten. Since there is just a chart for a right handed mitten, how do I get the left handed mitten with the thumb at the right place. If I just read the chart from R to L both mittens will be for the right hand. Do I flip the chart or do I, as Mindy has asked, follow the chart for L to R.
December 28, 2020 @ 6:11 am
I have not knit Norwegian mitten patterns before, so I’m not sure, sorry! I’d say that if only a single chart is given, then flipping the chart to make the opposite hand (ie. knitting each round in the opposite direction) makes sense in principle. Best luck ~Em
October 26, 2020 @ 6:52 pm
Hi, I am hoping you can help me. I have never knit off a chart before and I would like to knit the Father Cables hat. It calls for 130 stitches but the number on the chart does not equal 130. It goes to 27. Hi Also, what does it mean when a square says gray, no stitch? Any help would be appreciated. http://yarnonthehouse.blogspot.com/2015/11/father-cables.html?m=1
October 28, 2020 @ 2:18 pm
Hi Christina – It looks like the charts have a 26 stitch repeat, which does go evenly into 130 sts. The grey stitches can be completely ignored. They are just inserted to show how the pattern repeats.
October 21, 2020 @ 8:13 am
Hi, I’m struggling with the WS instructions of a pattern, the RS are charted so fine with the these.
“In WS rows p all sts and yos. Begin with the st before patt rep, work patt rep cont.,end with sts after rep.
Do I purl the whole row or just some of it? It’s been driving me crazy for weeks now. There’s also a selvedge edge st to incorporate.
October 21, 2020 @ 9:52 am
Hi Rachael – It’s hard to say without seeing the pattern, but it looks like you are going to purl all sts and yos except maybe the pattern repeat?
October 21, 2020 @ 12:43 pm
That would make sense, would the pattern repeat then be in a knit rather than a purl?
October 22, 2020 @ 1:20 pm
Hi Rachael – It depends what the pattern repeat is, but if it’s a knit on the RS it is probably a purl on the WS
October 18, 2020 @ 5:00 pm
What do you do When the directions say to cast on 48 stitches and the chart only shows 47 stitches?
October 19, 2020 @ 11:44 am
Hi Charlene – Sorry, I’m not really sure without looking at the chart or the pattern
September 11, 2020 @ 5:47 pm
Stunning patterns.
Q. If the set lace pattern states k1. on bag of 1st row and at the end. Do I k1 . on each row ?
Each size has a different number of sts.
I may have just answered my own question but I’d like to have confirmed
September 13, 2020 @ 9:06 pm
Hi Alice – I’m not really sure without looking at the actual pattern, sorry!
November 13, 2021 @ 3:50 pm
My first time trying to knit from a chart which I am finding very difficult. My main problem is that the print on the chart is tiny so unable to read it – have tried magnifying glass & magnifying ruler with no success.Does anyone have any tips?
November 15, 2021 @ 4:04 am
If you’re working from a digital file, that you have printed at home, try printing but increasing the magnification (most print dialogs allow this in one way or another). If you’re working from a print book or pattern, you could take it to a printshop (like office depot, staples, kinkos) and ask them to blow it up for you on a photocopier.
August 24, 2020 @ 2:21 am
Brilliant explanation. I want to try some Russian stitch charts, and this helps a lot.
August 9, 2020 @ 4:08 pm
I am new to lace knitting and I am knitting the Love Note. In the chart on row one it says it is a 12 count repeat. I count 14 stitches in my row one. What am I missing? Thanks so much.
August 10, 2020 @ 12:18 pm
Hi Jo Ann – It’s definitely 12, try following the written instructions. If that doesn’t work drop us an email at tincanknits@gmail.com and we will get you sorted.
July 13, 2020 @ 1:30 pm
When following a charted pattern, k2tog is shown as a slash in a square, the square being one stitch. If I continue on with k or p in empty squares, I am now 1 st off every time there is a slash (k2tog). Maybe if the slash crossed 2 boxes I could better understand. Obviously the pattern is fine, I am just not clear with some of the inc and dec signs which stitch should be inc in the k2tog. Can you help? Thank you!
July 14, 2020 @ 11:38 am
Hi Rita – You want to work the sts as you come to them in the chart and in your knitting, so if the chart has a knit box then a k2tog box, you want to knit the first stitch, then work the k2tog combining the next 2 sts.
July 12, 2020 @ 9:38 am
How do you read and keep track of a double knitting chart where there are no symbols, only black and white squares? I’m new and first time trying this too. Thanks you
July 12, 2020 @ 10:37 pm
Hello – we haven’t published any double knitting patterns yet, nor am I familiar with the technique. However, one tip that sometimes helps is to print out the chart if you can, and colour it in? There are also ways to colour or highlight digitally, if you’re not able to print.
July 7, 2020 @ 6:09 am
Regarding Kasbah Hat, Chart 2 indicates knit sts as emply outlined cells. There are also emply cells without outlining. What are those sts?
July 7, 2020 @ 12:26 pm
Hi Joan – I haven’t knit that one so I’m not really sure. There should be a key that tells you the difference. Otherwise your best bet is to contact the designer.
July 1, 2020 @ 5:55 pm
antler mitten – question about set up round: k1, PM, work chart… does work chart mean to work rows 1 through 6 ?
Round1: k1, work chart…does work chart mean to work rows 1 through 6?
July 6, 2020 @ 10:09 am
Hi Emily – Regardless of what else is happening in the mitten you are always working the next charted round, so in the set-up round you are working round 1 of the mitten, in Round 1 you are working round 2 of the chart etc.
June 29, 2020 @ 11:56 am
I am new at knitting and doing a baby blanket. Some of the rows say YO,K1(8 times). Does this mean I YO,K1 8 times. Thanks.
June 29, 2020 @ 12:06 pm
Hi Mary – Yep: yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1,
June 17, 2020 @ 9:22 pm
The chart I’m trying to knit from has increases in the first row but doesn’t show what to do with the new stitches on the second row. Row two of the chart shows exactly the same number of stitches as row one. How do I know what to do with the increased stitches?
June 17, 2020 @ 9:54 pm
Actually, I think I understand it now. I was reading the box with the increased stitch as having two stitches. It’s actually just the increased stitch.
June 18, 2020 @ 12:32 pm
Hi – Sorry, I don’t know! Have you tried contacting the designer?
June 17, 2020 @ 4:25 am
My pattern say p2(2:3:4 2:2) p2tog (2(2:3:2:3;3) p2tog) 8 (8;6;8;8;8) times p2(2:3:4:2:2)
June 17, 2020 @ 11:52 am
Hi Karen – I’m not sure what the question is? It looks like it depends which size you are knitting?
June 11, 2020 @ 8:19 am
I am knitting a cardigan and am a on a row in the chart that calls for pearling two together. There are 21 pearl stitches and on stitch 20 it is pearl 2 together. Does that mean I pearl stitch 20 & 21 together? Thank you in advance.
June 12, 2020 @ 12:11 am
Hi Leanne – Yes, that sounds right!
June 6, 2020 @ 8:34 am
Knitting shawl from chart. ? So knit 1st set stitches then comes REPEAT SECTION. Then last section of stitches. That Repeat section , will you find the last one not enough stitches left to complete pattern before last section to end row. IE: repeated pattern across now marker coming up to do last section but only say 5 stitches left for last Repeat but Repeat part is actually 17 stitches! HELP, 3rd rip out start over!
June 8, 2020 @ 10:46 am
Hi Maggie – You should be able to get in full repeats before the edge sts.
May 13, 2020 @ 6:32 am
Hi, I think I was too impatient! I had made black/white copies of the pattern pages from the book and so I had not seen that the No Stitch boxes were completely white, while the rest was in another color. Checking the book was a good idea!
So no need for you to answer :D
May 13, 2020 @ 4:47 am
Hi, I am about to start a pair of socks with a nice-looking charted pattern. I have never done charts, but thought it could not be too difficult after having read your excellent instructions. However, in this particular pattern the chart is: an empty box for KNIT and then comes PURL, after that 4 different CROSS symbols and it ends with no. 7: another empty box meaning NO STITCH !
Horizontally there are 11 boxes and vertically 18 and only on the 17th row the 10th and the 11th stitch together are a right cross (2 stitches). All the other 11th stitches are not boxes, but are missing the horizontal lines that form the boxes, so one long 1-stitch vertical box, I suppose that means ‘no stitch’, which I do not understand. I cannot address the designer as the pattern is not from Ravelry but from a book, so I hope you can help me out!
Thanks so much in advance. It is really wonderful what you do for the knitting community.
May 10, 2020 @ 2:15 pm
Hi, I’ve knit many items with seemingly complex patterns and I’ve always been able to figure them out – until now.
I’m making a Christmas stocking, using a chart and the directions say” All of the sts that are purled on the RS are marked as pattern sts on the chart. Instead of purl rounds on the RS, yo, turn the work and knit back. On the next round. knit the yarnover with the following stitch to avoid a hole at the turn.”
These directions are at the beginning of the stocking, knit from the top down, so short rows are not needed.
What does ” knit back mean? At what point do I turn the work to continue on the RS?
I’ve worked on this for hours and been unable to duplicate the design on the picture shown.
Any help that you can provide would be appreciated.
The pattern is from a book on Scandinavian stockings. I’ve made other items from the book and had no difficulty.
Thank you in advance for your help!
May 11, 2020 @ 12:55 pm
Hi Elaine – Sorry, I really have no idea. It might mean that you turn your work and purl back, they do sound like short rows to me.
May 8, 2020 @ 4:13 am
If you want to convert a usually knitted flat chart to an in the round chart what do you do with the wrong side rows of the chart when you are in the round, do you ignore the shown wrong side rows or knit them starting from the opposite direction. For example I am working on the cascade 220 traditional Aran pullover when I get to the cable motif because it was made to knit flat it shows all rows in the round how to I deal with the ws rows that you won’t do when knitting in the round
May 8, 2020 @ 10:12 am
Hi Ashley – It depends how the chart is written. When working in the round you usually lose the edge sts and read all rows right to left. It depends if they have written ws and rs rows differently, or if the chart always represents the right side of the work.
March 15, 2020 @ 8:14 pm
Hello, I think I might be the only person in the world that is having a problem with the lace pattern in Love Notes. I am making the adult size M and am right at where the lace work starts with 216 stitches. Every time I do the 12 stitch repeat, I end up with 14 stitches. The YO’s make an extra stitch, but the k2tog and ssk should take one each away, so why am I ending up with 14 stitches? I’ve ripped it out 3 times and I can’t figure it out. Do you know what I might be doing incorrectly?
March 18, 2020 @ 9:17 am
Never mind. I called someone who let me know what I was doing incorrectly. Thanks anyway!
March 18, 2020 @ 9:10 pm
Hi Priscilla – hard to say without seeing it, If you send us a pic (tincanknits@gmail.com) I might be able to see where it’s going wrong?
August 9, 2020 @ 4:13 pm
I’m having the same problem. What is the solution?
March 3, 2020 @ 2:51 pm
I am knitting the Strange Brew Marshlands sweater. Row 6 instructs a m1 knit 3 m1, repeat. How do I make 2 side by side m1 without using the same bar?
March 3, 2020 @ 3:23 pm
Hi Nancy – sorry about that, there is an error in the Marshland chart, the second M1 should be one stitch over so there is a knit between the m1s
March 3, 2020 @ 6:35 pm
Thank you so much for the quick response! I’m loving this whole Strange Brew project and plan to make many.
February 10, 2020 @ 9:16 pm
In your charts for top down sweaters (swatching yoke of moraine one different colors) the increases are marked with a little m and the key says it’s a m1 stitch. Do you mean to add the stitch before or after the box?
I’d the chart is:
XMXX
CBA
Do you mean the extra stitch to go after knitting into stitch A (so it’s between a and b) or after knitting into stitch B?
February 12, 2020 @ 12:51 pm
Hi Ben – The stitch is meant to be added at the box, so as you are going along in the chart, where it says m1, you are going to do an increase right there (I like to do a bar increase, we have a tutorial for that here: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/m1/
November 11, 2019 @ 5:45 pm
I’m starting the Urban Hiker cardigan, it’s my first time following a chart, and I’m confused. On the sleeve the instructions for round two of the sleeve says “purl to first stitch before marker, k1, work panel as set, k1”. My confusion comes in the “work panel as set”, does this mean to work row one on the chart right to left? Thanks for any help you can give.
November 12, 2019 @ 12:28 pm
Hi Holly – you are always working the next row of the chart, the chart is always read right to left.
November 12, 2019 @ 12:47 pm
Even when the chart only has odd numbers, you work the even numbers the same as the odd row before it? My work doesn’t look the same as the pattern photo.
November 19, 2019 @ 8:47 pm
Hi Holly – it depends on the pattern, for most of ours there is a plain knit round or a plain purl row for the even rounds/rows
November 13, 2019 @ 7:14 am
I think I figured it out. I’ll work the even rows in purl, except for the knit stitch before the marker and the last stitch. Thank you!
October 30, 2019 @ 7:09 pm
hi I.m going to start the Love Note ,do I use # 6.00 needle till the bottom rib then switch to 4.50 ….thanks
October 30, 2019 @ 8:34 pm
Hi Dorothy – yep, that’s correct!
October 26, 2019 @ 9:55 am
Bonfire blanket. First row. Cables knit over 3 stitches. Middle cable pattern shows cable over 5 stitches. I’m confused . Help! Thanks
Ruth Ricci
October 20, 2019 @ 12:18 pm
Working sweater from Strange Brew. When reading [k3(2),m1] what does the (2) mean?
October 21, 2019 @ 9:32 am
It means the first size is k3 and the second size is k2
October 6, 2019 @ 3:09 pm
When knitting the lovenote sweater you move the marker on the 5th row. When doing row 1 again do you move the marker back?
Thank you
Cindy
October 6, 2019 @ 8:40 pm
Hi Cindy – nope, it stays where it is.
October 11, 2019 @ 6:13 am
Thank you.
September 22, 2019 @ 5:46 am
When I reach the end of a row and I do not have enough remaining stitches to complete what is in [ ]…what should I do? Complete the tow with single stitches? Or continue with what is in [ ]?
September 24, 2019 @ 12:30 pm
Hi – It sounds like something has gone wrong, you should definitely have enough to complete the chart. Which pattern is it?
September 20, 2019 @ 12:28 pm
I work lefthanded, left to right. Should I just switch the numbers on the pattern with 1,3,5 being on the left and 2, 4, 6 on the right? Also would the repeat switch as well.
September 24, 2019 @ 12:31 pm
Hi Nadine – Do you work your knitting left to right as well? It would depend if it was a symmetrical lace pattern. If 1, 3, and 5 are on the RS for the chart I think they should be for you as well.
August 23, 2019 @ 11:51 am
Sorry for the repeat…I left this question the other day but can’t find it now. I am a continental knitter, knitting a lace pattern on a sweater from a chart. Just switched from in the round to flat knitting, where I’m purling on the WS. On a couple of the rows, the lace pattern ends with a YO. My question is..how do I purl into the YO when I switch from the RS to the WS? Can’t seem to work this stitch properly.
September 4, 2019 @ 1:36 pm
Hi Shelley – Hmm, is there possible an edge stitch you are missing? It would be odd for a chart to end with a yo (but not impossible). Does the pattern indicate any special instructions?
August 3, 2019 @ 7:16 pm
I have researched YouTube videos and various blogs all day to find an answer to my question…your instruction above is absolutely awesome; HOWEVER, it does not resolve my question, and I haven’t found ANYTHING yet with an example like the chart my pattern provides. It shows a pattern repeat marked out in bold lines (as usual), but the outline shape is 16 stitches for the top half and only 8 stitches in the bottom half…then the 8 stitches are shown again OUTSIDE the bold line. I don’t understand why the designer didn’t just include the 8 stitches within the pattern repeat, because the picture of the FO definitely shows it is part of the repeats…am I making any sense? I’d be glad to send a photo if it would help.
August 8, 2019 @ 4:22 am
Hi, I’m not sure what’s happening with the chart you’re working from! I’d suggest you try knitting it, and just see what happens, then if it doesn’t work, email the designer directly. It’s hard to know, definitively, if a chart ‘doesn’t work’ without trying knitting it first. Best luck!
July 30, 2019 @ 1:50 pm
Hello! I have a chart that says T&P at the end of a short row. What does that mean? My guess is Turn and Purl?
August 1, 2019 @ 11:33 pm
That would be my first guess? I’d check the pattern abbreviations or the chart key / notes.
July 5, 2019 @ 4:04 pm
What does it mean knit 2a,a and then 2a,b until last 2 stitches
July 15, 2019 @ 9:43 pm
Hi Jane – I’m sorry I think I’m going to need a little more context to answer that?
July 2, 2019 @ 12:59 am
Thank You…your site is just amazing. Much appreciated…I knitted the Celtic Lace into a beanie/hat. CO 96 stitches – for the 8 pattern repeat x 12 – (leaving out the borders on either side from your scarf). Knitted on DPNs in the round. Body of the hat either 2 sets of 12 rows + plain knit body or 3 sets of 12 rows + plain knit body for to desired length. Decrease for the crown of the head on a 12 stitch decrease.
June 27, 2019 @ 1:45 pm
I’m trying to learn charting. I’m trying to figure out your example and I only see 7 stitch repeat where you are showing rs and ws
July 26, 2019 @ 5:15 am
I’m sorry, I’m not sure which part of the post you are referring to? The example has 8 little boxes (representing 8 stitches) between the heavy vertical lines which indicate the stitch repeat.
June 15, 2019 @ 4:26 pm
I purchased Jones Cardigan. Having trouble reading the cable graph. I can cable, but this is a little confusing. k I, p 2, cable with next 6 stitches and k 3, p2 k1 =15 but it doesn’t look correct. Thanks
Diane
June 16, 2019 @ 8:42 pm
Hi Diane – I’m not sure what you mean by doesn’t look correct? Pattern support is a little easier via email if you wouldn’t mind emailing us tincanknits@gmail.com
June 6, 2019 @ 7:16 pm
I’m attempting to knit my first hat and the instructions make no sense. It shows a chart of only odd numbered rows. This means right side rows correct? But then it doesn’t mention anything about wrong side or the even rows. I don’t know what stitches that should be.
Also the odd numbers are on different sides of the chart. The one is the bottom row on the right and the 3 is on the second bottom row on the left. Should I go left to right for the 3,7,11 etc and right to left for 1,5,9? I’m so lost.
June 10, 2019 @ 1:43 am
I can’t see what you’re seeing, so I don’t know what the pattern writer intended.
However, I would guess that the alternate rows or rounds would be ‘worked in pattern’ – which would mean knitting the knits, and purling the purls.
If you want a clearly-written first hat pattern, we have a few! You can find all of our hat patterns here: http://tincanknits.com/patterns-hats.html
Enjoy! Emily
June 3, 2019 @ 9:24 am
This was such an awesome information packed article I’ve been looking for. After reading this I am thinking in my question the answer is…please confirm if correct or not. I want to take a scarf or rectangular shawl pattern and make them wider for a blanket. So if the stitch repeat is 10 stitches, and there are 4 stitches for the edges….my foundation cast on will be 18 stitches plus multiples of 10 to the width I want. Am I understanding this correctly?? Thank you for your time.
April 24, 2019 @ 12:52 am
Hello!
Thanks for the tutorial, I think I get it but I’m still stuck with a bonnet pattern I am attempting. The written pattern instruction directly before the commencement of the chart says I should have 41 stitches – which I have. However if I count the number of stitches (including the required repeat) in row one of the chart, it is 47 stitches, and when attempting the chart I run out of stitches before finishing the row?
Have I missed something?
April 25, 2019 @ 12:45 pm
Hi Naomi – I can’t really say without actually looking at the pattern. It could be that the chart is increasing sts, or it could be that you are counting the yarn over’s as sts needed to work the row….
April 10, 2019 @ 8:57 pm
I’m knitting a sweater which has a color chart of 21 stitches, 8 rows. It’s all in 1×1 rib. I know that this must be a repeating pattern. But I’m not sure how to do that. I know I read the chart from right to left (it’s in rows). Once I do one section of the 21 stitches, do I then keep repeating that until I get to the end of that first pattern row? And then I turn and start knitting the second row left to right? I have a feeling it’s simple but I’m just not getting it.
April 11, 2019 @ 12:22 pm
It sounds like you have a 21 stitch repeat (unless there are any dark lines around any sections, that could indicated the repeat is less than 21 sts), you would work row 1, 21 sts, then repeat those 21 sts all the way across the row. Then on row 2 (if the pattern is in rows rather than rounds), you would work the chart from left to right.
May 1, 2019 @ 1:32 pm
Thanks!
March 6, 2019 @ 4:03 pm
I am trying to convert a cross stitch, to a knit pattern and convert DMC THREAD TO YARN TO KNIT A WOLF ON THE BACK OF A SWEATER. ANY HELP
March 6, 2019 @ 8:07 pm
Hi Bertha – you can convert a cross stitch chart to a knit pattern, each cross would be a knit stitch. You might want to swatch it though, to make sure it’s coming out the way you want.
February 17, 2019 @ 3:30 pm
IMG_3250.jpeg
What does the capital R and the dotted lines outside of the patter mean?
February 18, 2019 @ 1:36 pm
Hi Cynthia – I’m not sure what pattern yo uare looking at? Maybe email us with a picture? tincanknits@gmail.com
January 28, 2019 @ 4:52 am
Hi there, I’ve been searching for the answer to a lace pattern question. It is hard to explain, but here goes. The pattern on the right side calls for yarn overs, some before a knit stitch and some before a purl stitch. Or before knit 2 together or purl 2 together.
The wrong side rows are not shown and I would normally knit or purl them as they appear. But I have seen that some people purl into the back loop of the yarn overs, specifically the yarn overs before purls of the previous row.
The chart is in Russian and it taken me days just to figure out the chart symbols.
Thank you for any help in advance!
January 29, 2019 @ 12:53 pm
Hi Cindy – I think you probably want to purl the WS rows. Working through the back loop would make the hole created by the yo a little smaller, so it should be okay either way.
January 13, 2019 @ 3:06 pm
I am starting the lace yoke pattern for the pippa dress. It states to repeat yoke chart 2, 8 times for the 6 month size. Is it really all 32 rows 8 times? It seems like the yoke would be very big. I do not understand how many yoke repeats there are.
January 14, 2019 @ 10:25 am
I think I fugured it out. Work all the way across the 3 charts but work chart 2 8 times across. There are only 32 rows total, is that correct?
January 5, 2019 @ 8:01 pm
Hi there,
I’m working on your Stovetop Hat. This is my first time reading a chart and doing cables. I think I’m okay except for one detail. The chart shows only odd numbered rounds. The instructions for even rounds say” work as established- knit the knits purl the purls” does that mean to do the cableing sections also in the even rows? In other words do I completely repeat the previous odd row again in the next even row? Round 1&2 are exactly the same? round 3&4 the same? Etc… OR does it mean to “knit the knits purl the purls” without doing the in front and behind cables? Please help. I love your designs and your website!!
Nancy
January 8, 2019 @ 12:27 pm
Hi Nancy – nope, no cabling in the even rounds, just knits and purls. Does that answer your question?
January 9, 2019 @ 5:53 pm
Ah ha! thank you! No cabling in the even rounds!!!
December 5, 2018 @ 5:10 am
I’m knitting a lacy cowl in the round and the pattern is on a chart. Please explain .. on one row there is a yo followed on the next row by a black solid box. The key explains it as,“this st is used with the dec of the first rep, work it as charted in future reps” the next stitch is k tbl. in the next row above the black box is a yo.
I would appreciate your help.
Thank you.
December 6, 2018 @ 11:39 am
Hi Linda – that’s a great question, I’m sorry, I really don’t know what that means at all. Have you tried contacting the designer?
November 27, 2018 @ 11:13 am
Hi there,
I’ve bought your marshland sweater pattern and am having a bit of a time figuring out how to go about the yoke. Ive cast on the stitches for my size (92), placed my marker and knitted one round. I don’t understand the increase instructions however. When do I increase?
Men’s XL (XXL): [(k3, m1) 5 times, (k4, m1) 2 times] around
are these instructions for one round?
Im a little lost. Thank you for any guidance.
Warmly,
Kathryn
November 28, 2018 @ 3:36 pm
Hi Kathryn – for your size you would [k3, m1, k3, m1, k3, m1, k3, m1, k3, m1, k4, m1, k4, m1] around. That’s for 1 round.
November 27, 2018 @ 8:26 am
I have been reading all your info on reading a chart in knitting. I am doing a sweater and cannot understand this chart.
I am working in the round and am ready to start the color work. It has a red line around the very first box which it days the symbol means repeat. Repeat what..than no box and then another repeat box.
I would be glad to send you a copy of chart if you could help me understand this.
Please let me know if your able to help. It has increases but does not tell you how to do pattern with extra stitches
Thank you
November 28, 2018 @ 3:37 pm
Hi Judy – I’m sorry, I’m not really sure. You might want to try contacting the designer of the pattern, or maybe popping into your LYS (they usually know what’s up)
November 15, 2018 @ 4:35 am
How do you keep track of aran cabling when some charts don’t equal numbers of stiches. Im reading a cable chart that has different charts across the front some are eight repeats some are for repeat patterns and some are six row repeats so how do you manage a 6 repeat with an 8 repeat and a for repeat so you don’t make a mistake?
November 22, 2018 @ 1:14 pm
Hi Becky – I usually use a locking stitch marker, but if possible, place it in the stockinette somewhere rather than in the cable itself, just makes things a little easier.
November 11, 2018 @ 3:31 pm
Hi Alexa and Emily – I’ve never done any colour work and would like to have a go at it. Which of your patterns would be the best one for a beginner. I’d like to try a sweater but thought it might be too ambitious? Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
November 11, 2018 @ 9:22 pm
Hi Liz – if you have done a sweater before I’d say start with maybe Compass, it just has 2 colours and the sweater is pretty simple. If you want to try it all out in a hat I’d say go with our free Clayoquot toque pattern, or the new Fleet hat, or maybe the Banff hat? They are all great first Fair Isle.
October 15, 2018 @ 5:53 am
I am about to start the Tall Dark and Handsome hat — but I don’t understand how the chart applies when knitting in the round? Help!
October 17, 2018 @ 10:24 am
Hi Kristin – when working from a chart in the round you want to always start at the right side. You work each row of the chart all the way around. Does that help?
October 12, 2018 @ 2:43 pm
I am working on knitbot’s Sycamore Vest. Row 1 requires following Chart A to the mid-back, then following Chart B, which mirrors Chart A. All rows are written out. When I do row 2, should I begin with Chart B or Chart A? I’m confused!
October 13, 2018 @ 8:50 pm
Hi Cheryl – if you are working back and forth I would think you would start with Chart B
September 23, 2018 @ 7:50 am
Hi
I am making the spotlight sweater I am on row 11 of the chart and am totally confused with the no stitch. I have no clue what to do?
Hoping you can help.
Thanks Gloria
September 24, 2018 @ 9:32 am
Hi Gloria – just do nothing. Move to the next stitch in the chart.
September 12, 2018 @ 5:26 pm
I am trying to figure out a chart which I believe is Russian, it has 7 different symbols. A triangle leaning to the left and a triangle leaning to the right, a circle for a yarn over a blank square for knit , A filled in diamond in the centre of the square , a single- which I believe is a purl and a double= which I don’t know what it is. It is illustrated in a pretty lace stitch chart
September 12, 2018 @ 8:50 pm
Hi Mary – I’m sorry, without a key I can’t really say. They are probably leaning decreases, usually a circle is a yarn over.
August 1, 2018 @ 4:20 am
Hi, I am really struggling with the chart for the Low Tide Cardigan. Under the chart, it says to refer to the pattern instructions for edge stitches worked either side of the chart but I can’t find anything in the pattern.
The pattern says (Right Front Bodice) K4, work chart A to marker, K4. So do I work the 7 stitch repeat in the chart until there are 7 stitched left, then do the edge stitches from the chart, yo, k2tog, then knit 4?
Thanks
August 10, 2018 @ 10:01 am
Hi Carol – You have it right there, the k4 before the chart and after the chart are the edge sts. You are working the chart on the sts in between. You have it right but it is to the last 6 sts, yo, k2tog, k4.
July 23, 2018 @ 7:12 pm
I am knitting a 30 stitch cable- because I am knitting a larger size than the standard it says for RS work 30-st rep 4 times and work first 21 sts once- I assume this means 4 of the 30 stitch cable and then the first 21 sets of the cable. My question is on the WS do I start with the first 21 sts of the ws cable and then do 4 repeats of the 30 st pattern or do I do 4 repeats and then the 21 sts?
July 25, 2018 @ 10:53 am
If you are working back and forth it sounds like the 21 sts is a the end of the row on the RS so it would be at the beginning of the row on the WS
July 10, 2018 @ 6:03 pm
I posted a question about BOR, I don’t see the question here, but I wanted you to know I found my answer by re-reading your pattern notes! Thanks so much! Pat
July 10, 2018 @ 5:04 pm
Hi! I have a question about shifting BOR in the Chrysanthemum pattern. I am knitting a blanket and I’m on row 85. So I have moved the BOR 3 times already, one stitch to the left. But now I’m not sure that’s correct because it says – to shift BOR left: prior to working the round the remove marker, knit 1 or 2 stitches as indicated, replace marker.
I don’t see where 1 or 2 stitches are indicated. On rows 29, 43, 67 it seems the bold chart line moves over 1 stitch. But row 85, the bold chart lines moves one st to the left, but the arrow is pointing left.
Such a dumb question but I’d sure appreciate your answer.
Thank you in advance.
Pat
July 11, 2018 @ 10:36 am
Hi – instructions on where and how many sts to move the marker are on page 2 under ‘How to shift BOR marker’
June 8, 2018 @ 9:20 am
Hi, I love your stuff! Today I have charts with no row designations. They are part of a free pattern for knit flat baby afghan on Ravelry. Although they tell the number of stitches each chart is worked over, there is no designation for the rows. I can’t tell if each row in the chart represents one row of work or two rows. Thank you, and keep up the fine designs!
June 7, 2018 @ 3:50 pm
Hi. I want to enlarge a chart that is in a PDF document. How do I do it with free software please?
June 8, 2018 @ 12:00 am
Hi Elaine – If you want to enlarge it simply to view on screen, you should be able to zoom in. Then you could take a screen-shot of that area of your screen at the zoomed-in view. If you want to print it, you can change the print zoom percentage (set it to 200% or something) in the print dialog box when you print. Or you could print the zoomed-in screenshot.
June 27, 2018 @ 12:21 pm
Elaine, this has worked very well for counted-cross-stitch patterns, and I plan to do the same with lace charts … I make an enlarged copy (and a spare, of course!) at Office Depot. As a senior, I’ve found these to be so easy on the eyes, and the cost is probably was under $1.00 per copy, if memory serves.
April 13, 2018 @ 10:35 pm
I’m doing this pattern: https://www.bhg.com/crafts/knitting/kidswear/knitted-guernsey-pullover-and-cap/ and I’m confused about the chart to begin with. It says to use the 8 stitch repeat, the chart has color-coded dark lines, but they don’t match, i.e. Red on the left side says “8 st Repeat” but that matches the dark black line on the right, not the red line. Shouldn’t the repeat be outlined by the matching colors? What are the green lines for?
Also, at the bottom of the chart it shows “4 6 ‘8 st Repeat’ 6 4” What is this in reference to? I’m doing size 8 sweater, there are 83 stitches, which doesn’t add up equally for the repeat or edge stitches. The more I stare at this the more confused I get. :(
June 7, 2018 @ 3:08 am
Hi – we can’t provide pattern support on other people’s patterns, sorry! You’d do best to contact the designer, or whoever published that design. Good luck!
March 27, 2018 @ 8:01 am
Hello there.
First off, thank you for such a detailed and wonderful illustration of how to read charts. This was very very helpful. And I’m sure many many people are enjoying your instruction.
Here is my dilemma. I am knitting a dinosaur blanket for my new grandson. I didn’t much care for the free dinosaur patterns that I found, they were either too detailed or too simple. However, I did find some darling dinosaur patterns under perler bead patternss that were just right. I know that perler beads are done on an exact square pattern. And I also know that knitting patterns do not knit up exactly square. So how do I modify a square pattern to properly knit up as a knit pattern?
I hope I phrased my question correctly, but I’m pretty certain that you are expert enough to understand what I’m trying to get at. I’m very much looking forward to your reply as I would love to get started on this blanket pretty soon. And, perhaps this question might help someone else too. You never know!one
Have a great day and hope to hear from you soon. Thank you.
Sherry
March 28, 2018 @ 4:02 pm
Hi Sherry – I’m not 100% sure this is what you are asking, but I think what you want to know is the approximate ratio of width to height in a stockinette stitch? It is about 3 sts and 5 rows to get a square in a DK or worsted weight yarn (but I would measure the ratio in my gauge swatch, or check the ball band for their suggestion). Does that help?
March 29, 2018 @ 6:15 am
Thank you Alex. Using this ratio to knit a pattern that is a charted in a perfect square then, in order for the pattern to come out visually correct, I would need to repeat each pattern row 3 times in order for the visual pattern to match the square chart I worked from? I am using DK weight where 20 stitches = 1 inch. My square will be 2″ by 2″.
If your familiar with Perler beads, Pintrest has hundreds of patterns online. I saved several of the dinosaur patterns and wondered whether they would come out exactly as pictured since (I am given to understand), knitting stitches do not quite match square charted patterns. Perhaps I’ve been misinformed formed?
March 26, 2018 @ 5:27 am
I am about to knit a Crazyheart and have a question about the chart. I read it from right to left. But as the wedge decreases in width, there are step ins. What do I do about the first stitch after my BOR marker in these instances? Do I slip it and then knit it as part of the decrease on my final repeat? If it helps you understand what I’m on about, if I look at the chart for the Crazyheart, what do I knit on top of stitch 1 of row 16 when it comes to knitting row 17? I tried to figure this out by looking at the chart for the Tenderheart and what happens between row 14 and 15 but I still can’t work it out. Beginner knitter here obviously! I’d be really grateful for some help. Love your patterns. I’ve done a flax and a peanut so far. Working my way through them! Thank you.
March 26, 2018 @ 9:15 am
Hi Kate – The ‘step ins’ represent the number of sts that actually exist at that point, so you can just keep following the chart exactly as before, stitch by stitch.
March 27, 2018 @ 1:45 pm
Ok thanks! I think I just need to knit it and watch it pan out :)
February 19, 2018 @ 6:51 am
I’m working on the Bonfire Blanket and the chart only shows odd number rows. What do I do on the even number rows? Thank you, Susie
February 19, 2018 @ 1:16 pm
Hi Susie – in the written pattern and the chart notes it states to knit the knits and purl the purls on the WS rows.
February 15, 2018 @ 10:56 pm
Hi, I’m making the chasing cable throw. The directions show a stitch guide then directions for the cable square. I don’t understand how they are suppose to go together. Can you help?
February 19, 2018 @ 1:17 pm
I’m sorry, I can’t really help without seeing the actual pattern. That info should be in the written pattern or chart notes
February 14, 2018 @ 1:13 pm
I am working on a shawl using a Katia pattern. I understand the chart for the first 34 Rows . then the instructions say to continue, in the pattern, increasing 1 stitch 2 stitches from the edge. I get that. The problem is the chart does not have any black lines to indicate the repeat pattern. It shows 4 rows that are the repeat rows but does not take into account that the number of stitches per row change as you increase. I tried a couple of rows but it doesn’t work out correctly. I brought it my local knit shop where I purchased the yarn but they were not helpful st all.
February 14, 2018 @ 1:17 pm
Hi Cheryl – I’m sorry, I’m not sure what they are looking for. They may intend that you understand the stitch pattern and can increase within it? I might try emailing the designer or published for a little clarification.
February 4, 2018 @ 10:31 am
Hello there!
I’m starting a new project for a cardigan and starting off I’m already confused. The pattern calls to cast on 215 sts. Then this is the part I find confusing-
Next row: work edging chart over 4 sts.
What does over 4 stitches mean?
This pattern is called the Lestrange cloak from the unofficial harry potter knits from 2013.
If anyone is familiar with it I would really appreciate your help!
January 25, 2018 @ 3:46 pm
I have been struggling with a lace chart for a sock. My struggle was with the ssk stitches that seemed to make it not correlate mathmatatically. It just dawned on me that it is being left blank as a knit stitch would be.
January 21, 2018 @ 7:36 pm
What do you do when you see the chart with an outline of red and what do you do when there is spaces “empty spaces” between stitches
January 22, 2018 @ 9:42 am
Hi Kelly – the empty spaces might be ‘no stitch’ spaces, in which case you can just ignore them. Not sure about the red lines, it should be in the chart notes for the specific pattern you are working
February 8, 2018 @ 4:53 am
The red lines are telling you to repeat that section or block of stitches for your pattern.
January 21, 2018 @ 5:00 pm
This chart so clear. But I have Problem with
For the last 2 sttches in rnd : place the second to last stitch on a cable needle and hold kn front , p1, sm,k1,k1 from cable eedle;cintknue rnd as chart row 4, starting at stitch 3
I have tried but 1 miss 1 stitch.
One partner is 8 stitches.
Please help. Tks
Agnes
January 22, 2018 @ 9:41 am
Hi Agnes – I”m sorry, without knowing the pattern I don’t really know what the designer intends
January 19, 2018 @ 6:43 am
Hi I am working a fair isle flat pattern in a stockingnet. The directions for starting the first colorwork chart say …start chart on the wrong side. Does that mean I should start row 1 from left to right ?
January 19, 2018 @ 10:23 am
Hi Marian – yep, that sounds right!
January 14, 2018 @ 7:11 pm
Hello i am having trouble reading my chart. I am working with a circular needle in the round and the pattern starts off with non knitting space how do you work that? It is the father cable pattern.
January 15, 2018 @ 7:06 pm
Hi Kimberly – I don’t really know without seeing the actual pattern, but I would assume if the pattern has a ‘no stitch’ you should just ignore it and move to the next square.
January 13, 2018 @ 10:50 am
Hello. Thanks for setting up this page – it’s really helpful! Recently I saw a chart that had a stitch notation that looked like a wide v with a 2 in the middle of it. Then the next stitch was a U. Can you shed any light on what these symbols might mean?
January 13, 2018 @ 7:10 pm
Hi Shelley – I think the only way to know is in the chart notes or the key and abbreviations for that particular pattern, since so many designers use different symbols
January 12, 2018 @ 8:38 am
Hi, I’ve got a chart that is worked flat. Each row has a filled in color for the pattern (dishcloth will look embossed when finished as so many do). Do I knit over to the colored squares on the grid then purl the squares that make up the design on the right side of my work, then on the wrong side of my work do I purl over to the design then knit those stitches? I’m used to purling across the wrong side. If I do this then the dishcloth will be huge. There are 42 stitches across and 60 rows. Thanks!
January 13, 2018 @ 7:09 pm
HI Denise – sorry, without looking at the pattern I really don’t know!
January 5, 2018 @ 1:08 pm
Question : Some fair isle/ colour work charts show a square that is called “no stitch” This completely baffles me!! I can do colour work, have knitted many nordic mittens, but if a pattern/chart has “no stitch” squares I avoid it. Any explanation would be most welcome. Thanks
January 5, 2018 @ 2:01 pm
Hi Jane – no stitch means just that, ignore that square. They are usually inserted to clarify the motif, or because there are decreases etc.
January 4, 2018 @ 1:10 pm
In your example of the Gothic lace, why don’t the edge stitches look like they are decreasing if you are knitting two together (k2tog) on each row? Won’t that decrease the number of stitches on your needle and change the available number of stitches to work with on the next row? This has always confused me on chart patterns and I never know how to continue. Thank you for your very clear and detailed explanations on everything else!
January 5, 2018 @ 9:27 am
Hi Laura – while the k2tog on each row is a decrease, the yarnover is an increase, so there is no net change in the number of sts. Does that help?
February 6, 2018 @ 6:36 am
The written directions for Row 3 of the Gothic lace is incorrect – the repeat is missing a K1.
June 7, 2018 @ 3:10 am
Hi Laura – thanks for pointing that out! I’ll have to get that image adjusted :)
August 30, 2019 @ 1:57 pm
Hi I’m working from a chart for the first time. I’ve just finished the rib and need to increase in the next row. Does the v in the chart indicate the actual increased stitch or do I start the increase on the v?
Thanks
September 4, 2019 @ 12:53 pm
Hi Sue – It’s hard to say without actually looking at the pattern, but usually the increase would start on the V
December 9, 2017 @ 12:07 pm
Hi there! I have a question about your chart above for the Gothic Lace. In the repeat section you have 8 stitches on the chart. When you write out all the stitches in the repeat section you are only showing 7 stitches. Are you missing a k1 between the last yo and the k2tog? Or is the k2tog combining those two stitches on the chart? And if so, why isn’t there a blank square before the ssk? Okay, that was more than one question. :P
Thanks!
December 18, 2017 @ 11:26 am
Right you are! All fixed now, thanks!
November 17, 2017 @ 5:19 am
Hi! I was worried because this particular post is so old but looks like the comments are still alive an well. I recently ordered a book online of various Japanese knitting motifs and patterns. I didn’t realize it was all charted and while I am an avid knitter, I have never actually worked off a chart before. The particular pattern I wanted to swatch seemed simple but I can’t even get through the first rows before my stitches are misaligned. I am also confused by the stitch count. I’ll do my best to explain the chart:
the pattern states it is repeated over 22 stitches and 12 rows, but the chart is 27 stitches wide with no missing or empty stitch cells. first row is knit, the second has the beginnings of two purled columns on the RS of the fabric: k5, p2, k13, p2, k5. On the next row, it shows the following: ktbl, yo, p2sso, yo, ktbl, and then the p2 column, but I am two stitches behind when i get to the p2. Am I supposed to assume a knit stitch between the ktbl and the yo or between the yo and the p2sso? What am I missing here? I have checked in the instructions and the intro to the book that explains how to read the patterns and there doesn’t seem to be anything there…
November 22, 2017 @ 9:35 am
Hi Samantha – kind of depends what the p2sso is? Is it pass slipped sts over?
November 11, 2017 @ 4:51 pm
I am trying to complete a scarf pattern from Interweave. There are written directions for the first 10 rows and a chart for the next ten rows. Never having knit from a chart before, I am confused. So the pattern begins with 28 cast on stitches. Next row is:
(WS) Sl 3 pwise wyf, purl to end. Then work in Laddered rib for 10 rows:
row 1: (rs) sl 3 pwise wyb, [p2, k2] 5 times. p2, k3
row 2: [ws] sl 3 pwise wyf, p 25. Repeat for pattern
Then work rows 1-26 of cable chart 20 times.
So these are the first two rows on the cable chart ( from the bottom)
row 2: V V V, 25 empty squares
row 1: k3, p2,M,k2,p2, k1, /,p1, k2,p2,k2, p2, k2, p2, V V V
The chart tells me that an empty box should be kniited on the RS; and purled on the ws
a dot in the box is a purled stitch; and A V in the box means to sl 1 wyb on the rs; and sl wyf on the wrong side.
So, if Im reading the chart correctly, I would start at row 1 with knit 3 and proceed to the end and for row 2, I would start 25 puled stitches.
When I see the VVV, do I slip 3 stitches?
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance,
Rosina Alaimo
November 5, 2017 @ 9:17 pm
I need to chart a 3 stitch increase over 1 stitch to create a spot for a 4 stitch spiral cable in a Celtic cable pattern. I was thinking doing a M1, k2 in next stitch, and then another M1. How would I chart it, making sure I account for the no stitch spaces?
November 6, 2017 @ 10:40 am
I would probably create a symbol and then explain it in the chart key.
October 21, 2017 @ 6:31 am
Please, tell me what means number in the chart row (not the num of row) , like in the Song of Zion by Mario on ravelry. Thank you!
October 22, 2017 @ 8:29 pm
Hi – sorry, i don’t really know. One thing that is sometimes done if there are many stockinette sts in a row designers will put the number of sts in the middle. Eg, if there are 17 knit sts the number 17 will be in there.
October 20, 2017 @ 10:09 am
I am crocheting a drop pattern 164-16. I understand I read diagram from right to left. But what if the next row only has one symbol (7 Doubke crochets) In chain? Above that, the next row has 7 chains only. Also, why is it showing me A.8 above A.2 which is section I’m working on? Please help.
October 20, 2017 @ 2:20 pm
Hi Lori – sorry to be unhelpful but I don’t know TOO much about crochet patterns.
January 7, 2018 @ 6:30 am
Usually when asked to chain 7 you skip 7 stitches in the row below and place the next stitch in stitch 8 . Unless you are making lacey loops.
When coming back on the other side you will not go into each of the stitches of the chain but rather grab the yarn under the entire chain x7 or however many is indicated. Essentially making a 7 stitch “hole” in your piece.
I am sorry I do not understand the bit sbout A8 and A2
October 18, 2017 @ 1:06 am
Hi, I am knitting a baby cardigan (March from Isager) and there is a 7-stitch pattern for the front edges, 5 + 2 lace st. My question concerns those 2 st.
The 4-row diagram says for Row 1: k2tog, Yo, and for Row 3 Yo, k2tog. (And Rows 2 and 3 are 2 knit/purl stitches.)
I am wondering if I should also k2tog, yo, at the end of row 1, or do the reverse in order to have a symmetrical lace pattern.
Looking forward to your reply, thank you in advance!
Wonderful tutorial !!
October 18, 2017 @ 9:53 am
Hi – I’m afraid the answer is a pretty unhelpful, I don’t know. It depends if there is a button band picked up or something there, or if there are edge sts indicated in the pattern. Without seeing it I’m kind of unhelpful, sorry!
October 18, 2017 @ 11:57 pm
Thank you Alexa.
These 2 lace stitches are a combo with a 5-st. garter stitch border with buttonholes.
October 23, 2017 @ 7:48 am
Good luck with it!
September 26, 2017 @ 4:35 pm
My pattern says to, “place center st of graph at center of bonnet”. It’s a Norwegian pattern and this centering this is different than Fair Isle (or so I have read). It’s a lace pattern, not a color design. I am experienced, but I just don’t get how to do this. I see the concept, but I don’t LITERALLY know how to make it happen. Do I just add extra “filler” sts at the beginning so that the center st of the chart matches the center st of the work?
September 27, 2017 @ 12:31 pm
Hi – I’m sorry, I don’t either! It seems like you would need a certain number of sts before and after the chart to make it fit? Or does the chart fit with the number of sts you have?
September 3, 2017 @ 4:02 am
The chart I am about to start (first timer) has a shaded box which states ‘No stitch’. At points on the chart it has 3 in a row? Not sure what this means. Confused.
September 5, 2017 @ 12:28 pm
Hi Denise – shaded ‘no stitch’ boxes are sometimes inserted to make the patterning more visually clear. You can just totally ignore them.
September 1, 2017 @ 5:25 am
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I love your patterns but was a bit daunted by the charts as I have never used one before. I feel confident enough to try one now…just need to decide which one!
August 24, 2017 @ 4:30 pm
my pattern reads multiples of 16+47. I ended up with 5 stitches at the end of the 1st pattern row that didn’t fit into the motif repeat, nor were they part the 3 stitch garter edge. how on earth do I knit those 5 weird stitches??! I’ve contacted the designer, but she hasn’t responded.
thank you for any advice at all you can give me. judy
August 25, 2017 @ 9:10 am
Hi Judy – If the pattern calls for multiples of 16 + 47 it seems like there will be 47 edge sts, so you would want to stop working the 16 st repeat 47 sts before the end of the row, then work the edge sts.
August 8, 2017 @ 10:33 am
I’m working on Arcadia poncho; have done the 14″ down-but I’m stuck (mentally) regarding “establishing the chart”. I’m concerned about the seam from the garter stitch 14″ down. Does the chart make provision for that or is this visible seam going to be in the front of my work. I want it in the back.
August 8, 2017 @ 1:08 pm
Hi Johanna – I’m sorry, the Arcadia poncho isn’t one of ours so I’m not really sure?
September 15, 2017 @ 1:27 pm
I’m making this poncho right now. The 30-stitch chart pattern is done on both the front and the back of the poncho. When wearing the poncho, you can make sure the “seam” is in the back.
July 29, 2017 @ 2:09 pm
I am knitting the antler mittens pattern. I am a little confused for the gusset as ’round 1′ and ’round 2′ give an instruction and says to ‘work chart’; then I have to work ’round 1 and 2′ while ‘working the chart’, 4 times…..so am I repeating to work ‘row’ 1 and 2 of the chart or continue working the other rows (3-6) until I have worked a total of 8 rows?
August 2, 2017 @ 9:16 am
Hi Christine – you are always working the next round of the chart, regardless of what else is happening in the mitten.
July 18, 2017 @ 8:49 pm
I am knitting the 1999 sweater and having trouble with the lace chart. On row 3 of the pattern, I have completed the 4 stitch repeat four times and am now left with three stitches left – too many for the yarn over, make one, knit one that are left to finish the row. I can’t figure out how to make the number of stitches work. Can you help?
July 19, 2017 @ 11:24 am
Hi Jen – There are edge sts before the repeat starts, did you work those?
June 5, 2017 @ 9:43 pm
What does it mean Cont to dec every row until 13 more dec each side and AT SAME TIME after 7more dec rows
June 6, 2017 @ 9:21 am
Hi Char – I’m not sure, it seems like the second half of that instruction is missing? You will continue to decrease every row until you have decreased 13 sts on each side and then it looks like there is a second instruction after 7 more decrease rows?
April 29, 2017 @ 2:46 pm
how to insert leaf chart on Leaves and Berries Pattern
April 19, 2017 @ 7:26 am
I want to knit the “May Shawl” found on Ravelry. It has been interpreted from Russian and I think some of the instructions are a little iffy. After studying it I am wondering if the pattern should be reversed after the center stitch or should it be knit the same as the first half. Thanks for any help you cangive me.
April 20, 2017 @ 10:42 am
Hi Tess – it looks like the lace pattern is symmetrical so you can work it the same way on both halves of the shawl.
April 9, 2017 @ 7:56 pm
Hi, I’m doing my first chart based afghan (Textured Knots by Nora Gaughan) and the chart has every line numbered (odds on the right, even’s on the left) which I understand to mean that I work from right to left starting on line 1 (RS), then on line 2, I would work left to right (which should be the WS?). In the key for the chart, it says that the open squares indicating K are to be P on the WS (and vice versa for the P).
My confusion is: if line 2 is supposed to be the WS, then why not write it that way, OR am I supposed to follow line 1, return to the start “reversed” then work line 2 as the RS and not the WS (even though line 2 is written on the left)? Perhaps they just numbered on the left for convenience but it’s against all convention that I’ve read for charts. I’m really confused so any help would be appreciated.
April 10, 2017 @ 9:37 am
Hi Jen – I think that’s a pretty common way of writing charts that are worked back and forth (that’s how we do it). This way, the chart is a much better visual representation of the actual fabric if you show the chart as if you were looking at the RS of a piece of work. Line 2 is defintely suppsed to be the WS, so the symbol you mentioned means you purl on the WS.
March 23, 2017 @ 5:26 am
Hi everyone was wondering if anyone knows pink box on a chart means?
March 23, 2017 @ 6:42 pm
Unfortunately it will depend on the chart, is that info missing from the key?
March 9, 2017 @ 6:52 am
For the first time, I have come across a chart where all of the row numbers–both even and odd–are listed on both sides of the chart. Therefore I do not know if I am working all the rows right to left or some left to right. There is no explanation on the chart. The pattern originates in Germany and I don’t know if the European charts may be different??
March 9, 2017 @ 10:55 pm
It could be that the chart is worked in rounds at some point in the pattern and rows at other points. But it should tell you where to start the chart etc.
March 6, 2017 @ 8:44 am
I’m knitting a shawl and have (correctly) 179 stitches on my needles as I start a chart pattern that shows only 41 stitches with two 10 stitch repeats – so how do I manage working 179 stitches with a 61 stitch chart?
March 6, 2017 @ 10:54 am
Hi Margaret – so there are 2 10 stitch repeats, how many sts are outside the repeats?
February 28, 2017 @ 7:10 pm
I am knitting the “Wish Upon A star Baby Beanie” from All Free Knitting and I am totally confused by the chart. I understand the color change but what happened to the stitches where the chart disappears?
March 1, 2017 @ 9:54 am
Hi MaryAnn – I’m not really sure without looking at the chart but there are likely decreases incorporated either in the chart or in the written pattern
February 28, 2017 @ 2:59 pm
Hey. Im just starting the fair isle pattern on the campfire sweater and doing children’s size 5-7. The pattern states to work chart b twice and chart a twice around. How do I do this. Would I knit chart b with the 6 stitch repeat for the 23 rows then do chart a after. Im just confused in what order i knit chart b and A
March 1, 2017 @ 9:57 am
Hi – so, for the 5-7 year size you are working b, b, a, a, b, b, a, a which are 6, 6, 30, 30, 6, 6, 30, 30 sts for a total of 144 sts. When working charts you are working the rounds in order. So you will work chart b, row 1, chart b row 1, chart a row 1, chart a row 1, etc.
February 24, 2017 @ 2:00 pm
I’m working a chart pattern but the pattern says to increase 2 stitches at the beginning of each row. I’m unsure how to go about increasing and working in the chart pattern at the same time. Could you help?
February 24, 2017 @ 9:50 pm
Hi Emilie – I’m sorry, it really depends on the chart and the chart notes, I would have to see the chart to say
February 23, 2017 @ 1:50 pm
Wow! What an incredible comment section!
February 8, 2017 @ 7:57 pm
I’m reading a chart with 29 squares across. The first 6 squares are dark and the instructions say “no stitch”. I’m not sure what I should doin those squares. Thanks
February 9, 2017 @ 10:05 am
Hi Susan – just ignore them completely, they are usually there to make the chart repeat or motif more clear
February 6, 2017 @ 3:58 pm
Alot of times a chart asks to work between letters (B and C example), but there is sometimes a pattern instruction that crosses from C to D and I don’t know how to interpret it.
February 6, 2017 @ 11:10 pm
Hi Penny – I’m sorry, I’m not familiar with the kind of chart you are referring to….
January 30, 2017 @ 9:04 am
Can these chart symbols be used internationally?
January 30, 2017 @ 2:24 pm
Hi Debra – there isn’t really a set of symbols that are used all the time. Each chart will have its own key with instructions on how to work each symbol
January 21, 2017 @ 9:19 am
Hi! I’m reading a chart and um, the ‘repeating pattern’ is 25 stitches….however, there are 120 stitches around… what do i do??
January 22, 2017 @ 12:46 am
Are there any stitches outside the 25 stitch repeat? Any edge stitches?
January 15, 2017 @ 5:58 pm
Hi, I need some help with a knitting chart regarding the knit and purl stitches. I enclose a link to the chart and would be grateful if you could clarify for me what they mean. I am talking about the purl on RS and knit on RS boxes. (The chart is right at the bottom of the link). Thank you.
http://web.archive.org/web/20111110013040/http://www.straw.com/cpy/patterns2/patterns2-pdf/kaya-aran-shrug.pdf
January 16, 2017 @ 11:26 am
Hi Tracey – I think there must be a typo? I don’t understand the first chart symbol instruction either.
January 16, 2017 @ 3:42 pm
No typo, I think. It just says that a blank square is purl on RS, and so is a horizontal line. Purl is the most common stitch in this pattern, so a blank square is used to avoid visual clutter.
January 17, 2017 @ 9:27 am
It would be pretty out of the ordinary to have 2 different symbols mean the same thing. But maybe?
January 16, 2017 @ 6:14 pm
Thank you, I thought I was being thick, lol x
January 25, 2017 @ 2:49 pm
It’s not quite 2 different symbols meaning the same thing. Japanese charts typically use a blank cell for whatever the most common stitch is on that particular chart (usually knit or purl), presumably in order to avoid visual clutter. The notation with the equals sign tells you which symbol is being “blanked out”.
January 26, 2017 @ 1:48 pm
Hi – hmmm, that’s interesting, I’m still not sure I understand why a blank square doesn’t just mean purl on RS, why the extra instruction for the other symbol?
January 5, 2017 @ 7:24 am
Hi, I need help with the knitting chart for the pattern 211F-24 Foire Sweater Dress. After casting on for the Back, 83 sts and knitting 4 rows of Twisted k1p1 ribbing I am stuck. Can you please help me to decipher this chart? I would appreciate your help to explain this chart immensely.
Sincerely Maddie.
January 5, 2017 @ 10:08 am
Hi Maddie – sorry, without a chart key I’m not quite sure what is happening. I suspect the wavy line is a cable, the blank squares are knit and the squares with lines in them are purls
December 28, 2016 @ 4:18 pm
Hello, I am knitting a hat with instruction that says: rnd 3: rm, sl 1, pm (=this indicates new beg of rnd), k to marker. (The first st of the rnd is worked twice. Once as first sl st and once as last st of the end.)
How can you work first sl st of the rnd worked twice when there is a marker between the sl st and a stitch right after the marker? Am I reading the instruction correctly? Could you please explain this instruction? Thank you so much!
December 29, 2016 @ 9:49 am
Hi Tracy – It sounds like that stitch is worked twice (first it is slipped and at the end of the round it is knit). Which makes sense if you are moving the marker.
December 20, 2016 @ 8:45 am
my chat says k1 3no stitch what does no stitch mean
December 20, 2016 @ 9:50 am
Hi Roberta – No stitch just means you can skip right over that box in the chart. Those boxes are usually just added to clarify the pattern.
December 16, 2016 @ 11:20 am
Hi, there.. I am a beginner and I wanted to knit a colour work chart of My choice using only the purl stitch.. Is that possible..??? Please guide Me at the earliest..
December 16, 2016 @ 1:51 pm
Hi – it IS possible but it might take a little trial and error
December 15, 2016 @ 9:41 am
I am making a baby dress. There is a 7 stitch repeat over 15 rows. For every third row there is a slip 2 as if for knit, k1, peso. This decreases the 7 stitch patter by 2 stitches, yet the next row shows all 7 stitches. I’m totally lost!
December 15, 2016 @ 11:17 am
Hi Susan – Are there perhaps yarn overs or some other increase that compensates for the decrease?
December 15, 2016 @ 1:44 pm
No which is strange. one row shows 3 knits and 4 purls (in the round), the next row shows the slip stitch decrease of 2 and 4 purls. The third row shows 3 knits and 4 purls. It’s a pattern from DROPS design called Little Hedda. What is strange is that you start with 254 stitches and it says after you finish with the full set of the pattern (15 rows) you end up with 210 stitches
December 15, 2016 @ 2:37 pm
Hi Susan – so then it is a decreasing repeat, sounds like you’ve got it just right
December 15, 2016 @ 2:46 pm
But looking at the picture of the dress, it appears as if the pattern doesn’t move–but I will try it At worst, I will need to tear out a few rows. Thanks for thinking of how this could work
November 28, 2016 @ 1:52 pm
Thanks for this tutorial. I’m new to chart reading and I’m confused about SSK and K2tog. The symbol occupies one square (representing one stitch), but obviously both of these require two stitches. So, for example, in the chart above under “What are the heavy lines?”, there is an 8-stitch repeat, but one is a SSK and one is a K2tog, so it seems to me that you would need 10 stitches to complete the row. What am I missing?
November 28, 2016 @ 1:48 pm
Thanks for this tutorial. I’m new to chart reading and I’m confused about SSK and K2tog. The symbol occupies one square (representing one stitch), but obviously both of these require two stitches. So, for example, in the chart above under “What are the heavy lines?”, there is an 8-stitch repeat, but one is a SSK and one is a K2tog, so it seems to me that you would need 10 stitches to complete the row. What am I missing?
November 28, 2016 @ 1:54 pm
Hi Heidi – you aren’t missing anything! The row indicates the number of sts you will have when it is complete, not the number of sts you need to work that row. To work the row you need a 10 stitch repeat, but once the row is finished you will have an 8 stitch repeat. (Unless there are increases to balance them out)
YOs and other increases work the opposite way, they take up a square in the chart but don’t actually use a stitch
November 16, 2016 @ 1:39 am
Hi there, I am working on a dress which has some lace pattern inserted. I have a chart but unfortunately I have some geometrical shapes that are blank (and I also know for certain they do not represent k1 as I have the classical symbol of an empty box for that). How should I interpret the empty parts of the pattern?
Thank you,
November 17, 2016 @ 12:24 pm
Hi Oana – I’m sorry, I really couldn’t say, perhaps contact the designer?
November 9, 2016 @ 10:01 am
I am knitting a sweater from Better Homes and Gardens found on Ravelry called Knitted Guernsey Pullover and Cap (http://www.bhg.com/crafts/knitting/kidswear/knitted-guernsey-pullover-and-cap/) with an 8-stitch repeating section in the chart.
This is my confusion: I have a total of 83 stitches on my needle (as instructed by the pattern). It says to work the 8 stitch repeat 10 times (80 stitches), which should leave me with 3 stitches; however the chart shows 4 stitches on the right before the repeat and 3 stitches on the left of the repeat. That equals 87 stitches. Where are the extra 4 stitches coming from. There are also red and green lines on the pattern w/o any explanation what these lines mean? Can you help clarify? I included the link to the pattern so you could see the chart b/c I’m sure what I’m asking is confusing.
I really hope you can help! :-(
November 10, 2016 @ 8:59 am
Hi Carla – for that pattern the red and green lines are indicators for different sizes. For size 4 the pattern starts at the edge of the chart, size 6 at the green line and 8 and 10 at the red line. So the stitches you have outside of the repeat will depend on the size you are knitting
November 4, 2016 @ 1:19 pm
I have a question about reading knit charts for hats. I understand how the yarn overs and knit togethers and all that work, however, once I start shaping the top, the chart just shows the band at the bottom, that I’ve already know and triangles on top, towards the crown of the head. Does this mean that I should decrease stitches or cast off to form those triangles?
Sorry if this is a bit convoluted, I guess it’s difficult to explain without showing the picture of what I mean…
November 7, 2016 @ 10:05 am
Hi Claire – it is a bit tricky without pictures, but a pattern should include either decrease instructions that are separate from the chart, or the chart should include symbols that show the decreases. Is it possible that the lace chart is decreasing in the triangles in a non-obvious way? Are there more decreases (k2tog, ssk etc) than increases (yo’s)?
November 8, 2016 @ 7:35 am
I have the same question! My hat pattern just shows decreasing 2 stitches a row, but has no symbols. Is their a universal decrease that does this?
November 8, 2016 @ 9:25 am
Nope, but the decreases may be written in the pattern?
October 27, 2016 @ 1:09 pm
alexaludeman So even if pattern started off not joined and with a RS and WS, when it switches to being joined and knitted in the round, you only read from right side of chart even for formerly WS rows.
October 28, 2016 @ 2:24 pm
I would assume so, that’s generally how charts work (that’s how I would do it). If you are still unsure you may want to contact the designer. The info should be in the chart notes.
October 24, 2016 @ 5:28 pm
I am making a sweater on a circular needle. It starts of with a RS and WS and reading chart from right to left for RS and left to right for WS. THEN you cast on stitches and start knitting in the round. My question is do I just read every row of chart from right to left from then on? Thanks
October 25, 2016 @ 10:33 am
Hi Natalie – you got it! When knitting in the round charts are always read from right to left.
October 24, 2016 @ 6:06 am
Any suggestions for a good tutorial on knitting mittens using a chart. I have come to the thumb and am a bit confused on the directions.
October 24, 2016 @ 10:31 am
Hi Debra – sorry, none come to mind
October 23, 2016 @ 12:51 am
I am working on a knitting project that has 4 charts. I have had no difficulties until I got to chart 3. It has a lace repeat section; no problem there; BUT then there is one vertical row with a red box with a note, “expanding stocking stitch section”. There is no further instructions regarding this expanding stitch section anywhere in the pattern. What is this??? Thank you, in advance, for your assistance.
October 24, 2016 @ 10:34 am
Hi Toni – sorry, I have no idea, there should be information on that in the pattern or the chart notes. Maybe try contacting the designer?
October 22, 2016 @ 10:46 pm
When reading a colour chart for top down sweater, do we start knitting the colour pattern from top of the chart or the bottom?
October 23, 2016 @ 12:32 am
Hi – good question, not usually, it should say in the chart notes where to start etc. Usually designers have their charts ‘upside down’ so they are still read the way your knitting works.
October 22, 2016 @ 7:57 am
Hi.
I am new to charts in knitting but I am trying to knit a lace shawl from a chart. I think I understand the logic behind the chart. The frustrating thing is that I don’t know how to determine the number of stitches to cast on to begin with. Do I just cast on the number of stitches on row 1 of the 1st chart? How do I begin? Help!!!
October 23, 2016 @ 12:41 am
Hi Philona – you probably need more than just a chart (unless you are up for a little design work), is there no pattern to go along? With cast on numbers and instructions?
September 9, 2016 @ 1:08 pm
I am working on a Capelet pattern and the chart shows 2 blanks at the beginning of a row. Do I slip those 2 sts. To right needle and begin pattern row on 3rd stitch?
September 9, 2016 @ 1:12 pm
Hi Judith – it sounds like those are maybe non-stitches? You would just skip over them and go to the first instruction, no need to move any stitches around.
August 31, 2016 @ 10:40 am
I am working a lace chart that has blank boxes in the chart. The knits are indicated with a line. If I count all the boxes in the chart row that have a symbol in them, it equals 33, which is the number of stitches on my needled. So does that mean the blank boxes are “skipped” and I just move to the next symbol to work on the next stitch on my needle?
Also, following that logic, I got close to the end of my row where it indicated I would have 7 more knit stitches to do, but I only had two more stitches on my needle. I’m guessing it has something to do with the symbol that is keyed to “sl1, k2tog, psso”. So I slipped the next stitch on the left needle to the right, then knit the next two left needle stitches together, then slipped the 2nd stitch on the right needle over the first stitch on the right needle.
Help!
Nancy
August 31, 2016 @ 12:02 pm
Hi Nancy – I would assume they are ‘no stitch’ boxes but it is hard to tell without seeing the actual pattern. You are working the sk2psso stitch correctly. Is there a key for the chart? Perhaps the designer could offer more of an insight?
August 31, 2016 @ 12:46 pm
The key for the chart doesn’t indicate any information on the blank boxes so yes, I’m assuming they are “no stitch” boxes. Thanks for the advise
August 31, 2016 @ 8:23 pm
I think I figured it out… I wasn’t doing the yo right. Your clue of treating each square with a symbol on the chart as an “action” vs. A “stitch” made me realize I was doing a yo then a knit for each yo symbol. That Used up extra stitches causing me to run out at the end of the row.
August 28, 2016 @ 1:34 pm
Hi. This is very helpful. My question concerns the needle requirement. I have a lace pattern for a shawl (supposed to be moderately easy but I’m not finding it that!) with multiple charts but always with differences between right-side rows and wrong-side rows. Yet the pattern calls for a round needle. I don’t understand why. Wouldn’t straight needles make more sense since one is turning at the end of every row? I see no place in the pattern where the rows are joined. Thanks much!!
August 30, 2016 @ 9:51 am
Hi Janet – you could probably use a straight needle but I too would recommend using a circular, even though you are not working in the round. The reason is that shawls tend to get to a large number of stitches and a circular needle will hold all of those stitches with no trouble. The other reason is that when working back and forth on straights with a lot of stitches it can sometimes cause your tension to change near the ends of the rows. The needle gets a little heavier, changing the tension on the stitches. A circular needle holds the stitches between the needles, evening out the distribution.
Sorry for the novel!! Lols
July 30, 2016 @ 11:31 am
The chart shown for a stitch/pattern called Triangle rib on the Freeknittingpatterns.com does not show even rows/ws rows and there is no instructions for ws rows in the key except for this: “l – knitwise in odd rows, purlwise in even rows; – = purlwise in odd rows, knitwise in even rows. How do I knit the even rows? Purl only or knit only or as a reversed “copy” of the previous row? It’s very confusing when the key doesn’t give clear instructions for ws rows. Please help. Tx.
August 1, 2016 @ 9:59 am
Hi Desre – I’m sorry, I have no idea. It should indicate how to work the WS rows in the pattern….
July 13, 2016 @ 3:36 am
Hello! Just wanted to make sure I understand it correctly:
-right-handed knitters are following charts from right-to-left, bottom-to top (starting at the right down corner of the chart);
-left-handed knitters are following charts from left-to-right, bottom-to-top (starting at the left down corner of the chart).
Am I right?
July 13, 2016 @ 10:58 pm
I’m not sure what you mean by left handed knitters? Knitting is a 2 handed thing…..
July 14, 2016 @ 4:04 am
Well, I meant if you are a left-handed person (you write using left hand) and knitting in opposite direction to right-handed person (I know that even left-handed person can knit the same way as the right-handed person, but that’s not what I’ve learnt). I have my piece on the needle in right hand, while knitting with my needle in left hand.
July 27, 2016 @ 12:16 pm
Hi Zuzana – It depends if you are working any of the stitches backwards (eg, your purls are knits and your knits are purls) and if you are working in the round. Because left handed and right handed knitters usually knit the same way (sometimes varying the way they hold the yarn, things like that) knitting patterns and charts are always (as far as I know) written for the one way (knitting moving from right to left). I’m not sure what advice to give without knowing EXACTLY how you are knitting.
July 25, 2016 @ 1:15 pm
No. The charts are followed as the instructions above indicate. There’s no such thing as right or left-handed chart following. Knitting is a 2 handed fiber art. Unlike crochet, which uses only one hand to manipulate one live stitch; knitting used the right and left hand to manipulate a multitude of live stitches. In fact, the only “right” or “left” handed distinction is exclusively pertaining to how you feed your yarn. Every knit pattern is followed the exact same way by a righty or a lefty. However, a left handed person may prefer continental knitting and a right handed person may prefer throwing. That is not a hard and fast rule, it’s just an option. Stitches to be knit are on the left needle and stitches that have already been knit are on the right.
I’m not sure how you can believe there is any different rules for a right v. left handed knitter.
Good luck, though!!
August 5, 2016 @ 12:00 pm
Yes there are different rules to follow if you knit left handed. I am left handed. I make my stitches using the needle in my left hand, the working yarn is held in my right hand. I read a chart from left to right. Directional decreases are made the opposite way that a right handed would make the. Zuzana – Ravelry has several groups for lefties that can answer your lefty questions.
July 11, 2016 @ 1:30 am
When knitting from a chart and following a pattern that has for example 58 stitches and in the chart only 28 of these stitches are needed to form the motive, what do i do with the remaining 30 stitches. So confused. Please assist me.
July 12, 2016 @ 11:44 am
Hi Debbie – I’m sorry, I’m not much help without actually seeing the pattern. The extra 30 stitches could be edge stitches?
July 3, 2016 @ 4:07 pm
How would you count the stitches in a chart to find the multiple number of stitches for the repeat, or to increase the size?? Thank you
July 3, 2016 @ 8:45 pm
Usually the repeat will be indicated in some way (in a TCK pattern it will have thick black lines around it), otherwise I recommend either a swatch, or taking graph paper and graphing out the pattern, with any repeats, to start to see where they are.
June 16, 2016 @ 6:48 pm
I am struggling with Ann Budd & Anne Hanson’s Top-Down India Print Henley. I have worked through many issues before even getting going, and, from the conversations on Ravelry, expect many more. However, I can’t find an answer to this seemingly simple qn about the “bracket” indicated on the Eyelet Lace chart.
This is just the third row of the neck after CO, knit and purl rows and I am stuck. What does it mean to “work Row 1 of Left front eyelet lace chart over 2 sts indicated by BRACKET for your size.” The bracket shows YO and K for the size I am doing (30″) and 2K for the next size up (36″). That means my neck stitches will double in size while the next size up retains its number of stitches. That makes no sense.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Teresa
June 17, 2016 @ 10:58 am
Hi Teresa – if the next size up is yo, k2 then it will be increasing as well, just not at the same rate. Have you tried contacting the designer? They are usually quite helpful and know their patterns inside and out.
June 12, 2016 @ 5:24 am
Thank God I found this blog. I am currently following a pattern that has two charts. It states to start with chart 1 then follow same row on chart two, starting on the right side. On the next row do I start from the left side of the chart on both charts? I have thus pulled this portion out a few times as it does not look right, though I am not sure how it is supposed to look. Help??
June 13, 2016 @ 12:40 pm
You would start from the left side of chart 2, work left to right, then start on the left side of chart 1 left to right
June 11, 2016 @ 3:55 pm
I am knitting the rosebud shawl and I don’t know what to do on the first row of chart b where it says “A” and then “B”. Hope you can help
June 13, 2016 @ 12:41 pm
Check the chart notes, they spell it all out ;-)
May 14, 2016 @ 9:48 am
I a left handed; I knit with my left hand, taking stitches off my right needle to my left needle. Can I just follow the chart as written?
May 15, 2016 @ 3:30 am
Nope, you would have to reverse it. When I teach left handers to knit I usually have them knit the same way, just holding the yarn in their left hand (knitting is a 2 handed process, like playing the piano), that way patterns and charts etc. still work the same.
May 7, 2016 @ 2:49 pm
I am knitting a blanket in intarsia with a college logo. The chart I have is numbered from the top down and left to right rather than starting at the bottom right. Does it matter where I start for a blanket? Should I still start at the bottom right knitting right to left and purling left to right on the even rows?
May 9, 2016 @ 9:34 am
Hmm, without looking at the pattern I’m not 100% sure. Usually you would want to start at the bottom right and go right to left. You may want to contact the designer?
May 6, 2016 @ 9:20 am
Hello! I’m knitting a hat, but I don’t really understand how decreases work in charts. Could you please help? I’ve left the link in my username to the hat I’m making. Thanks so much!
May 6, 2016 @ 9:52 am
Hi Lizzy – I think it is hard to see them but there are slashes in the edge colored stitches indicating ssk and k2tog. So ignore the white boxes and work an ssk for the first charted stitch and a k2tog for the last charted stitch
May 5, 2016 @ 3:06 pm
I have done some chart reading, but recently I’ve come across something I’ve never seen before. I’m knitting a circular shawl that has several charts. One chart has a check mark roughly in the middle. The check mark isn’t anywhere in the symbol list, and none of the other charts have it. The pattern notes say nothing about it. It’s also weird because that part of the chart has repeat lines, so even if it was marking the center (for reasons I don’t know) it wouldn’t really be the center because it’s repeated. I’m really confused about this one. Please help!
May 6, 2016 @ 9:15 am
Sorry Viv, I really don’t have any idea what that one is…maybe try contacting the designer? If there is a symbol it SHOULD be in the notes or symbol list…
April 25, 2016 @ 7:00 pm
Hi- I am knitted a 29 row pattern from chart on dpn in the round.
Each row increases stitches.
It says to repeat chart 6 times.
Do I start back at row 1 ?
April 26, 2016 @ 9:30 am
Hi Sheila – yep, unless otherwise specified you would start back at row 1. There is most likely a pattern repeat that will be worked more times on subsequent repeats of the chart.
March 24, 2016 @ 6:09 am
I am working on the glass utterly hat by Kate gagnon Osborn in the book Weekend Hats. The chart has dark gray square (not to be confused with the light gray “no stitch” square. ) and I can’touch find a reference for it in the legend or in the book. Can you tell me what this means?
March 29, 2016 @ 12:19 am
Hi Mary – sorry, I have no idea, charts are pretty dependent on the key for instructions like that, since each designer might be using the symbol differently. You might want to try contacting Kate directly to ask, she is lovely
March 21, 2016 @ 4:52 pm
My pattern asks that I knit 1 below. Does that mean that I also knit the purl stitches that appear 1 row below? Or do I purl the purl stitches?
March 22, 2016 @ 9:52 am
Hi Velma – It would depend on the stitch pattern you are working
March 21, 2016 @ 4:46 pm
If a chart of 20 stitches asks that I purl 2 stitches together, twice, on the return row (row 2), do I have 18 stitches and adjust the chart accordingly?
March 22, 2016 @ 9:53 am
Hi Velma – if there are no increases to compensate then your chart should be decreasing.
March 8, 2016 @ 7:55 am
Love this resource. I am knitting a faire isle yoke on a top-down sweater (Iðunn
by Ragga Eiríksdóttir), that is knit in the round. The chart box for the pattern is a 28-stitch repeat by 37 rows. Because the pattern increases over the 37 rows, it starts with a 13-stitch repeat, and ends with full 28-stitch repeat. (Ragga uses black boxes to indicate “no stitch”). I’m concerned that the initial 13-stitch repeat, does not divide evenly into the stitch count indicated for my size (118). After the increases, I end up with 308 stitches (which can be divided by the final 28 stitch row). My question is, do I just knit the pattern for the rows as indicated on the chart (even if there are rows that end up with partial repeat)? Thanks so much. Ellen
March 9, 2016 @ 2:50 pm
Hi Ellen – I think something must be wrong if the stitch count doesn’t work. It should go evenly (i think, not having the pattern in front of me). I might check for errata?
March 5, 2016 @ 12:45 pm
I am a very new newbie to reading chart. I thank you for your tutorial here on charts . My question is on the pattern I am working it is in both written and chart and on the chart I’ve come to ‘Work even in pattern as established until piece measures 18 in . The chart shows rows 1-18 and I am currently on chart row 2 and now must work even ? does that mean work the chart up to row 18 and if it doesn’t measure the 18 inches by then do I go back down to row 3 and work my way up the chart until the piece measures it’s 18 inches ?
March 9, 2016 @ 2:54 pm
Hi Rosie – your pattern should have instructions on the issue. The chart may have a row repeat to work from (eg. work rows 3-18 to form pattern), and you would continue working the chart as set.
March 5, 2016 @ 10:14 am
Hello!
I am looking for some help with a fair isle chart. This chart identifies different starting points depending on the size you’re knitting. The repeat is over 16 stitches. I am having difficulty understanding how to complete the repeat with a different starting point. Any help/guidance would be appreciated.
March 9, 2016 @ 2:55 pm
Hi – you will usually have a particular starting point, and the repeat should occur after that. You will have some stitches outside the repeat, then work the entire repeat, then work the end stitches outside of the repeat. Does that help?
February 15, 2016 @ 7:10 am
By the time you have worked out what kind of chart it is, gone on Ravelry to ask why it makes no sense, tried to fathom out all the missing bits and why they are missing and wondered why some knitters are so phobic about using words, you could have finished the thing.
For instance my very simple chart includes wrong rows but some don’t (but hey some do). Then it is meant to be a circular chart but the wrong side rows are showing as flat. But I know what they mean don’t I? Or perhaps not. Charts are hideous things requiring a whole lot of time spent writing them out first. When I have paid for a pattern that says it includes written instructions (when they mean a couple of words which obviously pained them to use as they are so sparingly used) but does not include any full instructions for the item to be knitted but rather a horrible chart, it is misleading and very very annoying.
Yes, some of us REALLY do hate charts, and yes we can do them if we really really really try (but why should we, when we hate them so, we like to enjoy our knitting) and if we are prepared to spend hours on them (I’m not). No we don’t find it fun, we don’t want to be challenged we just want to knit the think we want to knit. Just like lovers of charts frequently hate words which need to be prised from them and is the reason why patterns are difficult. Patterns are not difficult, the lack of skill in sharing the information on what to do is responsible. Difference is, chart lovers need to make no excuses for their preferences. Yet we are treated as simpletons by others who are convinced that charts are so easy (despite the fact that we don’t all share the opinion) when we share ours and are frequently ridiculed, derided and made fun of on places like ravelry.
And then every chart is different!!!! With its own rules that we are left clueless about, and then we have to go off into internet land to try and find out the meaning of stuff which is frequently left unresolved because no one knows! But it’s easy because it’s a communal language!!!!
December 28, 2016 @ 10:52 am
Amen to that! I am trying to figure out a chart from a Rowan pattern and am mystified by the lack of information and totally confused by the apparent plethora of definitions for the same symbols. Would it be totally unreasonable to have an international commonality of symbols (such as those used in automobile manuals)? Yikes! Can’t get this pattern to work no matter what – I’ve tried about 25 times so far and only found this blog because I’m searching for some answers.
December 28, 2016 @ 2:06 pm
Hi Rebecca – I hear ya! Each chart should come with a key, explaining each symbol
February 7, 2016 @ 12:41 pm
I am starting a chart with a design across 16 stitches. The very first stitch says it is blank, no stitch and the next two stitches are knit. What do I do with the first stitch, slip it or is the first stitch actually the knit stitch? Thank you!
Melonie
February 8, 2016 @ 8:49 pm
Hi Melonie – no stitch means just that, it’s not a charted stitch, just a blank box, usually inserted for clarity. You will be knitting the first 2 sts.
January 24, 2016 @ 3:38 pm
This is an awesome resource and I hope you never delete this page!
January 15, 2016 @ 8:29 am
Finally! What a helpful site. Thank you so much. Your instructions clarified issues I’ve been dealing with.
January 12, 2016 @ 9:33 pm
I would like to knit the pattern on this link,
http://freeknitstitches.com/pattern.php?num=139&menu=5,
but no instructions are given for the even (wrong side) rows.
The pattern does not seem to me that all wrong side rows are purled.
Most of the patterns on this website (freeknitstitches.com) seem to omit the even rows, but I can find no instructions on the site about what they intend them to be.
January 13, 2016 @ 10:31 am
Hi Shirleen – I’m not really sure. It seems like they are missing an instruction
January 23, 2016 @ 7:57 am
Figured it out – it’s slip-stitch or mosaic knitting where the even rows are identical to the odd rows, just knit from the left. (All worked stitches are worked, all slipped stitches are slipped again).
January 10, 2016 @ 2:18 pm
Hello,
I’m knitting a vest pattern with a right side cable chart and a left side cable chart, pattern is by Bristol Ivy, and the name is Delius. I’m shaping the armholes working on the front of the vest back and forth. Great that the charts show working in rounds as well as working flat. I’m now on the wrong side and don’t know if that would be the left or right cable chart. I worked the right side starting with the Right cable chart.
Thank you in advance, Elaine
January 12, 2016 @ 12:54 pm
Hi Elaine – if I had to guess I would say the right cable chart. Might be best to contact Bristol for the definitive answer though
January 9, 2016 @ 1:13 pm
Hello.
Would “Slip as if to knit” be shown on a chart? And if so, how would it look?
Thank you.
January 9, 2016 @ 9:05 pm
Hi Amy- I’m not sure what the symbol would be, but it would probably be in the chart notes if it were…
September 3, 2021 @ 10:43 am
Hi Amy
I’ve been researching knitting chart notations and, to the best of my belief, one option for Sl1k-w would be a V and a Sl11p-w is a V with a horizontal line through its middle (which is character Q using Stitch-Mastery Dash font)
Confusingly I have also used said “V” to denote “kfb” when charting patterns.
Roll on the day when there is a standard, and global, set of notations!
September 6, 2021 @ 6:59 am
Hahahaha I’d not count on standardization where designers are concerned…
January 7, 2016 @ 7:42 am
I’m knitting a patterned cardigan “shrug” with a japanese pattern. I’ve read various “how to read Japanese knitting charts” but I still cannot tell if my pattern’s “pattern stitch” chart is showing ALL rows or just RS rows. How do I know for sure?
January 7, 2016 @ 11:07 pm
The rounds may be numbered or it may be in the chart notes….
December 12, 2015 @ 1:43 pm
I have a question. I have this horse hat knitting pattern. On the chart it shows the knitting square as being half it size (width) and the x represents the cc, but is placed on the right side of the skinny box. Help??!!?
December 13, 2015 @ 11:58 pm
Hi Dawn – I can’t really help without seeing the pattern. I don’t know what the skinny box is etc. Is there a key to the chart? Maybe try contacting the designer?
December 10, 2015 @ 2:16 pm
I’m confused about the written instructions for this chart
https://tincanknits.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/blog-chart-reading-04.jpg?w=600&h=386
The pattern repeat for row 1 says [ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1], but isn’t that only 7 stitches? It seems to me that there’s a k1 missing before the k2tog. Or does the k2tog symbol mean it applies to the empty square on the chart as well?
Thanks.
December 11, 2015 @ 9:31 am
You are correct Kathy, there should be another k1. Thanks! We will get that all fixed up.
May 13, 2017 @ 10:40 am
I was confused about this as well. It looks like the pattern hasn’t been corrected yet. Thanks for the great tutorial!
November 8, 2015 @ 4:54 pm
I have a pattern that has a chart and the instructions says to do 5 repeats of the chart. Does that mean I do the chart 5 times or 6 (the first one and then 5 repeats) .
November 11, 2015 @ 3:09 am
I’m not sure, is it a Tin Can Knits pattern? If so, let me know which one and I’ll investigate further. Every designer uses different pattern writing language / style and conventions, so it depends. I’d guess it’s a total of 5 repeats, if that’s what it says, but if it’s described the first repeat, THEN says ‘repeat the chart 5 times’, it’s more ambiguous. Go with your gut and if it makes the mittens / hat / sweater long enough, then you’re golden.
November 8, 2015 @ 2:15 pm
Hello
When it says maker on the chart. Does that mean I place the marker and knit the stitch or the square is just place the marker and do what it says for the next stitch it shows for the next stitch????
November 11, 2015 @ 3:10 am
Every designer’s pattern writing and charting conventions are different, so I can’t say for sure. Have you checked the chart key and any chart notes or notes in the written pattern about this?
October 30, 2015 @ 2:19 pm
Hi, hope you can help me out, trying to knit the Top Down Raglan Summer Lace Cardigan & am having a dickens of a time trying to figure it out. It has a written pattern up to the 8th row but from 9 on is a chart which makes no sense to me. It does show the repetitive pattern of lace which I can see but that’s about it. The chart starts at the raglan stitch & goes from there, I have written out what it shows for 1st row and it doesn’t show the 2nd or 3rd raglan stitches like the written pattern does. I have gone on you tube & looked at how to read charts but to no avail. Even trying to write out the pattern it doesn’t tell me where the front, raglan, sleeve, raglan, back, raglan, sleeve, raglan, front breaks are. Also there is knitting, yo, ssk’s, k2tog’s before the 1st & after the last raglan stitches (which is the front). I have knit numerous Leisure Arts raglans and never had any problems. I have also knitted a lace scarf, so I have some experience. Thanks for listening.
October 30, 2015 @ 2:38 pm
Hi Sue – it is hard for me to say what is going wrong without looking at the pattern (the Top Down Raglan Summer Lace Cardigan isn’t one of ours), have you tried contacting the designer?
October 12, 2015 @ 3:07 pm
HI, I have a chart where the bottom row is labeled number 1 on the left rather than the right. Does that mean the first row is the wrong side and I read it left to right? Rather than reading the first row right to left? Thank you very much for your help.
October 13, 2015 @ 2:51 pm
I would say probably, that is what it would usually indicate. It should be in the chart notes where to start too!
September 28, 2015 @ 7:30 pm
I am working on red hearts Butterfly Cable Blanket LW3884 and cannot figure how to go about inserting the Leaf chart into the Leaves and Berries chart.
September 29, 2015 @ 6:14 am
Hi Carol – I’m not familiar with that pattern, but my suggestions would be to ask at your local yarn shop, and if they can’t help, then contact the pattern designer directly with your question.
September 25, 2015 @ 8:39 am
I’m knitting lace hat in the round using a chart. The shaded grey means do nothing with that stitch. But something has to be done. I can’t drop it. Do I just slip it to right needle. I don’t know what to do. Please help. Thanks
September 29, 2015 @ 6:18 am
The shaded grey stitches have likely been used in the chart to compensate for changing stitch counts in the pattern from round to round. So it’s not that you skip stitches, it’s simply that you’ll skip over that square in the chart, and go on to the instruction shown on the next square, and use that instruction to work the next stitch that you have on your needles. Hope this helps!
August 31, 2015 @ 7:35 am
This tutorial is heaven sent! Thank you so much! I’ve only read lace charts that had RS rows and just started one which had both RS and WS rows on the chart Now know that I should’ve been reading the WS row from left to right. Have had to frog my work twice halfway through. Hopefully it’ll turn out right this time.
August 27, 2015 @ 8:49 am
Hey guys,
So I just started the Prairie Fire pullover and I have gotten to the lace chart. I can follow charts fairly well, but I am a little confused with this piece of the pattern. I am on round 3 of the lace chart and the pattern says to “knit to the chart and knit next chart round”. My confusion comes from not seeing how many knit stitches there are before I begin the lace chart.
In round 1 of front of pullover it was KNIT 20, ROUND 1 OF LACE CHART, KNIT 20
For round 3, there are two increase sts at either end of the front section, so would I still be knitting 20 sts before I get the lace chart? Am I supposed to include the increases in the stitch count?
I hope I explained my confusion in a way that makes sense. Any help would be super appreciated! :) thank you so so much!
August 28, 2015 @ 10:54 pm
Hi Abby – the chart is increasing while the stockinette around it is decreasing. So for the next round you are knitting to 1 stitch before the k2tog of the last charted round (or 2 stitches before that if you are working round 19). You could place a marker around the chart, but you would constantly be moving it to account for the increases.
August 23, 2015 @ 4:04 am
HI, I’m trying to knit snowflake and am doing lace knitting for the first time. I’m very sure I’ve got my markers in the right place and i am reading right to left but somehow the number of stitches doesn’t seem to match up. For example for chart A i have 5 stitches until the centreline stitch and i have to k1, yo,[ k1, k2tog, yo,] k1 which by my calculation will use 7 stitches. What am i doing wrong? I’m really confused.
Thanks
August 23, 2015 @ 2:20 pm
Hi Claire – I think it’s just your calculations that are off. You don’t need a stitch to make a YO so you don’t need to count those. You have k1 (1 st), yo (no stitches used), k1 (1 st), k2tog (2 sts), yo (no sts used), k1 (1 st) for a total of 5 sts.
August 17, 2015 @ 6:20 am
Hi, i brought a pattern from iceland back home, in the chart i see a cross line over 2, 3 or 5 stitches ending in a vertical line. Does this mean that i have to knit together 2, e or even 5 stitches?
August 18, 2015 @ 2:15 am
Hi Wilhelmien – every knitting chart is different, so I can’t say for certain what the symbol you are referring to means. You may be right! Is there a key which explains the different chart symbols?
August 16, 2015 @ 12:47 am
I am new at charts and I have finished working the rows 1-24 of chart b of the rosebud shawl for the first time and I am starting on the second time. I don’t know how to do the pattern repeats. Do I start with K3, and then the entire row 1 (including the remaining yo), then repeat the pattern repeats until I reach the end of the row, where I will knit the remaining yo and then the K3? or Do I work row one until the end of the pattern repeat, do as many pattern repeats, and then only at the end will I work the yo, and then end with the K3? I hope I’m making sense :(
August 18, 2015 @ 2:25 am
As it says in the pattern: Work the chart one time before the centreline, then a second time after the centreline (in both cases reading charts from R to L). So you’ll be working RS Rows: k3, work chart once, knit centreline st, work chart a second time, k3
So just as you did the first time you worked chart B rows 1-24, you’ll keep the centreline in place.
For your second (and all following) repeats of chart B… start with row 1:
after your k3, you’ll work the chart row. There is room for 3 repeats of the pattern (the section between the vertical lines) before the centreline stitch. Then you’ll work the centreline stitch, and work the chart once more, with another 3 repeats of the pattern (the section between the vertical lines). As you’ll see in the chart notes, there are special symbols… A and B. You work them in different ways when they occur at the start (or end) of the lace panel. As it says in the key & abbreviations:
For A: work k1 on first repeat of each time chart is worked (at start of row and just after centreline stitch) then work ssk at all other repeats
for B: work k2tog, except on last repeat of each time chart is worked work k1 (just before centreline and at end of row)
So in Row 1, you’ll work the FIRST A as k1, then the rest as ssk, and the LAST B as k1, with the rest as k2tog. You’ll do this for each section, before and after the centreline stitch (because they’re the same… they create 2 identical triangles of lace).
Hope this helps!
July 16, 2015 @ 6:49 pm
Hi! First time stranded knitter and I think I’ve bitten off more than I can chew!!! the pattern has 16 stitches including what they call the “centre stitch”. I needed to cast on 31 stiches. I presume I repeat the pattern once – but what do I do with the “centre stitch”? ps its knitted flat. So I’m also unsure about what I do with the centre stitch when I haveG to turn around and work purl???
July 20, 2015 @ 8:56 am
Hi Jacqui – I’m not sure how to help, because I don’t know what pattern you’re working from? I’m assuming it’s not a Tin Can Knits pattern, as the instructions don’t sound familiar. Perhaps you should contact the designer directly with your query.
June 9, 2015 @ 5:22 pm
Charted my name ANN AND I HAVE 19 STITCHES ACROSS
JUST TRYING TO PUT IT ON A DISHCLOTH
I JUST CANT FIGURE OUT HOW MANY TO CAST ON
THIS IS THE HARDEST PART FOR ME KNOW IT SOUNDS STUPID BUT THAT IS THE ONLY
PART CANT FIGURE OUT HOW MANY TO CAST ON
I DID NOT INCLUDE BORDER STITCHES AND I PUT 2 SPACES BETWEEN EACH LETTER
TRIED OTHER DISHCLOTH SIMPLE DESIGN OR NAME AND ONLY THING I CANT FIGURE OUT IS HOW MANY TO CAST ON HOPE YA CAN HELP
June 12, 2015 @ 3:33 pm
Hi Pat – it depends on how big you want your dishcloth and which yarn you are using. If you want an 8″ dishcloth and you are using worsted weight yarn you will need about 36 sts. You have 19 sts in the letters of your name, you will need a few sts in between, say 3 giving you 25 total charted sts. You will want a border of 5 or 6 sts on the edge so you will cast on 35 or 37 sts.
June 8, 2015 @ 6:46 am
I have a knitting diagram that has yo and knit 2tog symbol in the same block. Row before has 16 stitches. Next one if count this one block has 17 stitches. What do I do?
June 8, 2015 @ 9:59 am
Hi Hilda
I’m not sure, is there a key for the pattern? There should be chart notes that explain such a symbol!
April 30, 2015 @ 8:04 am
I am working on a lace shawl using a chart. The blue repeat section has me stumped. As I worked through the repeat section once, and then a few rows later, twice etc…. I found that I didn’t have enough stitches to complete the entire repeat section and then full execute the edge section as well. Is there an unwritten rule about this somewhere? Or have I messed up somewhere along the way? Once I get through the repeat, and I have the final edge stitches left, do I stop the repeat and move forward to the edge stitches? Or once I repeat this section, I should always have just the right amount of stitches to repeat it fully while also finishing the edge?
April 30, 2015 @ 9:29 am
Hi – I hate to say it but I THINK you may have made a mistake. You should always be able to repeat the section fully, then move to the edge sts. Triple check the chart key to make sure you are working your increases and decreases correctly (sometimes symbols vary from pattern to pattern). Some common mistakes I’ve come across are: dropping yarn overs on the WS row, working an SSK incorrectly, missing the psso on a double decrease
April 30, 2015 @ 9:48 am
**SOB** that’s what I was afraid of. I guess I’ll pull out my work down till I hit where I started this repeat section. I think I had it perfect up till that point.
May 1, 2015 @ 9:38 am
Have you tried using lifelines? They can be super helpful if you have it perfect up to a point! http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/using-a-lifeline
March 29, 2015 @ 5:11 am
I have been knitting for well over 60 years and have never understood lace charts although l can follow written instructions and colour charts. In fact we made our own colour charts to knit a pattern on the back of mittens at primary school, boys included and then knitted them. I knitted a lace pattern hot water bottle as well before l left but from written instructions. Got into awful trouble for reading at the same time and making a mistake. We got thumped if we made knitting mistakes. Thank you for making it so clear.
March 8, 2015 @ 9:21 pm
Am knitting first lace, a sweater, and it is in the round. Starts row one of chart with three sts then the repeat begins. Of course, there are increases, so now there are 11 sts outside the rpt. After 14 rows I have to repeat row one, etc. The sts are K K YO. So 2 sts into 11, I have one left over before the repeat. Should it divide evenly, or ?
March 9, 2015 @ 3:28 pm
Hi Laura – I’m afraid I’m not much help without knowing the pattern. Do you mean there are 2 knit sts and a yarn over within the repeat? That doesn’t sound right because your repeat would create a lot of increases.
March 2, 2015 @ 11:58 am
I’m knitting a lace pattern for the first time. I have six edge stitches then a ten stitch repeat pattern. I don’t understand how to keep the ten stitch pattern correct when I need twelve stitches to complete all the increases and decreases. Am I missing something here?.
March 2, 2015 @ 6:45 pm
Hi Debbie -maybe, it’s hard to say without looking at the pattern. Is it possibly that the number of sts changes? It’s also important to remember that decreases take 2 or more sts to work, but only appear as 1 symbol, and yarn overs take no sts to make but also appear as 1 symbol. Perhaps the pattern uses different symbols than us?
February 26, 2015 @ 12:36 pm
Hello,
I have a really stupid question… Is the first row of my chart the cast on row and how do I know if the next row is a knot or a purl row?
Thanks so much for the fantastic tutorial.
Faye.
February 26, 2015 @ 10:34 pm
Hi Faye-the cast on doesn’t count as part of your chart, the first row will be the one after the cast on and that row can be either a RS or WS row, the pattern will tell you
February 22, 2015 @ 5:55 pm
Hi! I am a beginner knitter and hope you can help me… My pattern (from Classic Elite) calls for purl on right side and knit on wrong side then continue knitting in a repetitive pattern. How do I purl on right side and knit on wrong side? (I though we were always knitting on right side and purling on wrong side…) Thank you for your advice!
February 25, 2015 @ 9:40 pm
You can knit or purl on any side, I suspect the pattern has the purl side ‘showing’ or as the right side?
February 22, 2015 @ 9:33 am
Hi working on a lave pattern shawl and I am confused because my markers do not seem to stay in place. So I am confused as how to proceed. Can your markers move and the knitting be correct?
February 25, 2015 @ 9:41 pm
You may want to double check that if you have Yarn Overs right before or after the marker that they are staying where they should, that you aren’t moving the markers by misplacing the Yarn Overs.
February 15, 2015 @ 5:55 am
I am working a cable pattern that starts row 1 ws on left side of chart. should the chart be read with odd rows left to right and even rows right to left?
February 19, 2015 @ 12:04 am
HI Lynn – I’m not sure, since I don’t have your pattern and chart in front of me. Have you read the chart notes or instructions? I would guess that row 1, WS should be read from left to right, and then the following row (row 2, RS), would be read from right to left. But every designer choses their own chart ‘conventions’, so there’s no way for me to know 100% how your specific chart is meant to be read without seeing it.
February 8, 2015 @ 4:11 pm
Hi –
I have a question….
I am working on a sweater where the back is three panels and has three different charts. One chart for the left, one for the center, one for the right of the back. I’m assuming that when I turn the work to work the wrong side rows that I also change the charts order. So for the wrong side I would use the left chart first, then center, then right. Is this correct? I’m about six rows up and wanted to make sure I’m doing this correctly. I am reading from left to right on each chart on the wrong side row. Thank you!
February 9, 2015 @ 6:31 pm
Yep, on the RS you would work right side chart, then the middle chart, then the left chart. On the back you would work left, center, right.
February 2, 2015 @ 9:45 am
For some reason I am able to knit from charts, but each time a new chart pops into my knitting I need a refresher course on HOW to actually use them. Your tutorial is amazing. Thank you for this incredibly useful post!
January 28, 2015 @ 4:09 am
If working a colour chart for fairisle do you just look at the chart and then write it out so it is easy to follow?
January 28, 2015 @ 8:53 am
I wouldn’t ‘write it out’ – I would simply knit following the chart. That way you can refer to how the chart looks, and see if your knitting is matching.
January 21, 2015 @ 5:55 am
my chart reads “K2tog, yo, yo,k2tog” How are the two yo done? Thanks Edith
January 22, 2015 @ 9:20 am
You work two yarn-overs in a row by simply wrapping the yarn TWICE around the needle, rather than just once as you would for a regular yarn-over. On the return row you would work into this double wrap twice (typically… unless pattern states otherwise), purling the first yo, then knitting the second yo. Hope this helps!
January 13, 2015 @ 1:14 pm
This is a very useful, straightforward tutorial! Here’s a question I’m not certain about.
As I am left handed, should I read the RS rows left to right instead or do you think it will matter? That would be the natural direction my knitting would follow…
And for any sort of directional stitch, should I likewise attempt to do the opposite? I.e. ssk to k2tog, m1R to m1L, and vice versa? Thanks.
January 14, 2015 @ 11:52 am
Hi Meagan
I’m not 100% sure. When I teach knitting, I teach everyone the same, because knitting is 2 handed, like playing the piano. Sometimes lefties throw with their left like I do (I’m right handed but do some things with my left). So I suppose my question is how you do it backwards. Is the right side still facing you?
January 16, 2015 @ 9:21 am
Yes, the right side is facing me while I work, I just knit from left to right rather than right to left. I guess that would be called mirroring?
I get the feeling that I would switch some directional stitches as I have encountered that issue before, especially with the M1’s.
January 9, 2015 @ 10:12 pm
Have begun Antler Hat pattern. Knitting size L. After doing “set up” round is where I’m confused. I want to follow written directions for cable. Need some help please understanding what to do next. Thanks.
January 12, 2015 @ 6:29 pm
For the Antler Hat you are working a number of purl sts (either 3 or 5 depending on your size) between the cables. So you will purl in the purl section and work row 1 of the chart or written directions in the cable section.
October 9, 2019 @ 1:20 am
When doing the love note sweater chart on 5th round you move the BOR marker over one. Does that mean that all the repeat markers on that row are all moved over one as well to get 12 stitches in repeats?
October 11, 2019 @ 9:42 pm
Hi Lana – yep. That’s the down side of repeat markers, when it’s a repeat that shifts you have to shift them all.
January 3, 2015 @ 5:51 pm
This was so helpful! Thank-you so much!!!
December 26, 2014 @ 3:02 pm
I used google and it actually came up. So now I know what ‘NO STITCH’ means. Thank you.
December 26, 2014 @ 2:27 pm
Can someone tell me what it means when I chart has 2 squares in a row and the key says “no stitch”?
March 30, 2015 @ 7:08 am
I’m not clear when I read this in a pattern chart for knit in the round a cowl : Begin chart 1 and repeat the pattern 16 times and then knit chart 1, rows 1-6 3 times.
I casted on 60 stitches and the chart has 6 rows. I would like to know how many times do I have to repeat the chart.Thanks.
March 30, 2015 @ 9:17 pm
Hi Alexia – I’m not really sure without reading the pattern. Possibly there are 6 charted rows but a ‘relief row’ (like a knit round) in between? What are the chart rows numbered?
December 22, 2014 @ 3:59 pm
I think I need some help with these
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cthulhu-mittens-2
I have the chart and am unsure how to actually DO it, do I cast on ALL the stitches ((60)) and continue with that? Or do it separately and stitch all together? Or knit it in the round? I know the big red line on it is where you do the thumb. But other then that, I’m not sure how to do this. I’m going to start it working the entire thing in the flat, putting the ‘thumb’ stitches in a bit of spare yarn and then taking it up once done. Its just a bit confusing as there is nothing BUT the chart and red lines that’s it.
Thanks for the time.
December 23, 2014 @ 10:34 am
Are there chart instructions? I would hazard a guess that they are knit in the round. Usually patterns come with both written instructions on how to work the mitten, how to insert the chart, etc.
November 15, 2014 @ 5:49 am
So when working a pattern in the round you remain on the right side of the work, so you would consistently read the chart from right to left?
November 21, 2014 @ 12:05 pm
You got it!
November 6, 2014 @ 2:39 pm
Thank you so much for this lovely tutorial! Your careful descriptions and illustrations gave me my “Aha!” moment. As I can’t afford “real” classes, I greatly appreciate the time you took to write this.
November 6, 2014 @ 12:57 pm
I have a chart for a shawl called Tipperary. The first line of the chart is numbered 1 on the left, line 2 on the right. Do I knit left to right on line 1 and right to left on line 2? Thank you for your help.
November 6, 2014 @ 11:31 pm
I’m sorry, I don’t really know, usually charts are right to left on the RS and left to right on the WS. Is the side of the work specified or are there any chart notes? You may want to contact the designer for more details.
October 17, 2014 @ 5:39 pm
OMG I’ve been knitting for years and couldn’t figure out how to read a chart! I just figured it out reading this page! The light went on!!! So excited! Roberta
October 12, 2014 @ 4:46 pm
Also I am knitting in the round trying to follow the graph.
October 12, 2014 @ 3:19 pm
In knitting a sleeve for a gansey sweater, in following the chart, pattern says right-left-right. Does this mean not reversing the graph?
October 17, 2014 @ 2:36 pm
He Renee
Sorry, I’m not much help without actually seeing the pattern, is it knit back and forth or in the round?
September 23, 2014 @ 6:04 pm
If the legend shows a square as K on RS. Purl on WS
A dot as purl on RS. knit on WS
and the chart has row 1 blocks
Row 2 dots
Row 3 blocks
Row 4 dots
Does this mean you knit the first 4 rows?
September 25, 2014 @ 3:08 pm
Assuming row 1 is a RS and row 2 is a WS, yep
September 5, 2014 @ 10:15 am
What do you do with the symbol that says “no stitch?” Skip these? Slip these? I don’t understand
September 5, 2014 @ 8:28 pm
Good question, just skip them. They are usually put in to help show the pattern, but you can just ignore them.
July 22, 2014 @ 5:41 am
Your site has most complete lesson on charts. Was so glad to find it.
http://tashaknits.blogspot.com/2014/01/janury-estonian-lace-shawl-pattern.html
This is one chart that becomes lop-sided when I follow it. I have found others. Is there a technic that I do not know. Designer says there are no errors and just follow chart.
Have been asking on other sites and on some google says my acct. Has been deleted.
That’s another can of worms not to be done today.
June 6, 2014 @ 12:04 pm
Hello this is really helpful but I do have one question: if you are knitting in the round (rather than rows worked back and forth flat) do you work each round in the same direction (ie right to left)? I’m assuming yes because you’re never going in 2 opposite directions… Thanks in advance! 😄
June 6, 2014 @ 12:19 pm
Also are you meant to reverse the stitches on the WS? I’m confused!
June 10, 2014 @ 10:17 am
Can you be more specific about your question? Each chart is slightly different…
June 10, 2014 @ 10:17 am
Yes! When you are knitting in the round, you will read all chart rounds from right to left (in the direction that you knit). Good luck!
June 6, 2014 @ 11:31 am
Wanted to say thank you for all that you do for others.