![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-6909-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/App-TCK-6331.jpg?resize=1165%2C1748&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>This pattern is EVEN BETTER in the Tin Can Knits app!<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n- See only the instructions you need<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Tap through the pattern and make notes<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Support is just a tap away<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Adjust the settings to suit you!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n\nTry the free Tin Can Knits app!<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
Follow these steps to make your Cupcake sweater:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Materials <\/a>\n
\n- Choosing a size<\/a> <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Swatching<\/a> <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Needles<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Construction<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cast on<\/a> <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Lace<\/a> \n
\n- Charts <\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Markers <\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Colourwork<\/a> <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Short rows <\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Separate body and sleeves <\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Body<\/a> <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sleeves<\/a> <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Finishing<\/a> <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-0062-web.jpg?resize=683%2C1024&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nSelect your materials: yarn, size \u2013 and make a gauge swatch<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you’re unfamiliar with knitting-pattern conventions, this multi-size pattern might feel intimidating, so we’ve got an in-depth tutorial on how to read a knitting pattern<\/a> that you might find useful.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe first thing you\u2019ll decide is what yarn to use. This pattern is written for DK or sport weight yarn, at a gauge of 22 stitches per 4″. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Our knits:<\/strong> We’ve used Tanis Fiber Arts Purewash DK<\/a>, Puzzle Tree Yarns DK+<\/a>, and Ritual Dyes Sprite<\/a> for our samples. For this tutorial I’m using Sandesgarn Double Sunday<\/a> in Beige Heather and Whipped Cream.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/CupcakeSweater-Swatch-TCK-9131-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nWorking in one colour is easy peasy: just pick your favourite colour and go! If you’re working a 2-colour sweater we’ve got a couple of tips: <\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Go with a lighter colour on top. Lace really pops in a light!<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A barely there speckle looks very sweet. We would normally shy away from a speckle with lace, but with a subtle speckle? Chefs kiss. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- If you’re feeling unsure, tone on tone is always a great option!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
I knit up a few swatches to test out some colour combos. I loved the tone on tone, but I found that two quite different colours worked well too! My blue and green swatch and my pink and blue swatch both have entirely different colours, but it works. I did all of my swatches with the darker colour on the bottom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/CupcakeSweater-Swatch-TCK-9203-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nFor a couple of my swatches I used a sock held together with a mohair, and I quite liked the effect of the mohair halo. I might just have to knit up another Cupcake sweater with that combo! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Still not sure which yarn you want to use? Check out our tutorial on choosing a sweater yarn.<\/a> The most important thing is that you select a yarn you<\/strong> are happy working with \u2013 and one that will be able to meet one of the three pattern gauges.<\/p>\n\n\n\nChoosing a size<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
I already know about choosing a size, take me to the cast on! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Everyone has different preferences when it comes to garment fit. As a knitter, you’ll get to know your own preferences over time and learn to select a pattern size with those preferences in mind. If this is your first sweater project, I suggest reviewing our in-depth tutorials on how to select a size<\/a> and what ‘ease’ is<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-7111-web.jpg?resize=683%2C1024&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nHunter is wearing size SM (36.5″) with about 1″ positive ease. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8877-web.jpg?resize=683%2C1024&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nBodhi is wearing size S (34″) with about 2″ of positive ease. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
For kiddos you probably want positive ease, they tend to grow quickly in my experience! For yourself…well that’s a little more personal. We wrote the pattern with a neutral fit in mind, but consider what you <\/strong>like and how you<\/strong> want to wear your sweater.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nMargot is wearing size 3-6 months (18″) with about 2″ of positive ease.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
What about lengths? <\/strong>While you’ve likely selected your size based on the finished chest dimension, consider how lengths at the body and sleeves for this size will suit you. Remember, if you plan to lengthen any of the garment dimensions, you\u2019ll probably need extra yarn.<\/p>\n\n\n\nAre you enjoying this tutorial? Find out when all of our helpful tutorials are released by signing up for our email updates!<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nSwatch for satisfaction (for a garment, gauge is critical!)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
I know about swatching: take me to the cast on!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The next step is the swatch. We\u2019ve written a bit about swatching and gauge here for more information<\/a>. Suffice to say that if your large, blocked swatch doesn\u2019t match the garment design gauge, your sweater will not end up the size that you picked\u2026 it\u2019ll be bigger or smaller. You may still love it\u2026 but I don’t think I’d take that risk.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSince you are swatching for a pullover, knit in the round, the most critical gauge is your stockinette gauge worked in the round. While there is a little lace at the neckline, this won’t affect the fit, so stockinette gauge is key. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The sweater is knit in the round, so you’ll want to swatch in the round. Wait, Alexa, why can’t I knit a flat swatch?! Lots of knitters have a different tension in their knits vs. their purls, so their stockinette gauge back and forth (knitting one row and purling the next) is different than their gauge worked in the round, where all stitches are knits. There are a couple of ways to do this. You can either knit a small tube and cut it, or you can work a speed swatch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Tube Swatch:<\/strong> To make a tubular swatch you can use the Magic Loop method<\/a>, or DPNs, to knit a small tube. Cast on about 6-8″ worth of stitches, work a few rows in garter (knit 1 round, purl 1 round), then work about 6″ of stockinette, then a few more garter stitch rows and bind off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/SimpleSweater-TCK-Tutorial-1053-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"Scissors](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/SimpleSweater-TCK-Tutorial-1077-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"Scissors](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/SimpleSweater-TCK-Tutorial-1083-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Speed Swatch:<\/strong> A speed swatch is worked on circular needles or DPNs, a right side row (knit) is worked, and then the stitches are moved to the other end of the needle and the yarn is carried across the back, so you can work another right side row. This way you are always knitting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/SimpleSweater-TCK-Tutorial-1041-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/SimpleSweater-TCK-Tutorial-1045-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/SimpleSweater-TCK-Tutorial-1047-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe benefit of the tubular swatch is that it’s a little less fussy to knit, while the speed swatch has lots of yarn carried behind that can get a bit messy. Once you’ve cut your tube though you can’t re-use that yarn, but with a speed swatch you can unravel and use that yarn in a pinch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Don’t forget to block your swatch!<\/strong> Lots of yarns change significantly with blocking so skipping this step is NOT recommended. You want to treat your swatch exactly like you’ll treat your finished garment. If you plan to toss it in the washer and dryer, do that with your swatch too.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThere’s LOADS of situations where Alexa and I skip the swatch… but knitting adult garments for ourselves is NOT one of those situations! If I’m knitting a baby, toddler, or kid sweater though… I suppose you can go ahead and skip the swatch! It’s bound to come out fitting somebody<\/em><\/strong>…<\/p>\n\n\n\nWe have some suggestions on how to select a sweater yarn<\/a>, and make a gauge swatch<\/a> to learn what needles<\/a> you will use for the majority of the knit. If you simply cannot get exactly the stitch gauge we call for, and don’t want to change yarns, you may want to learn about knitting patterns at a different gauge<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\nIf you’re worried because your round gauge (that’s how many rounds in 4″)<\/em> isn’t same as our pattern, relax… in this pattern it won’t really matter… but you have more rounds per inch you may want to buy an extra ball, as a difference in round gauge can effect yardage requirements. <\/p>\n\n\n\nUnderstanding what needles you\u2019ll need<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
One of the things that can be confusing when you\u2019re a newer knitter is understanding which needles you\u2019ll need for a project\u2026 and why the pattern lists SO MANY. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For this project, you’ll need smaller diameter needles for the ribbing at neckline, cuffs, and hem. You’ll need larger diameter needles for the remainder of the knit. For the smallest sweater sizes, one set of needles will do, but as the garment gets bigger, you’ll need longer circular needles to accommodate all those stitches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the sleeves, which are knit in the round, you’ll need either DPNs<\/a> or a long circular needle for the Magic Loop method<\/a>. Whichever style you prefer is just fine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Needles,](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8439-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nFor my sweater I’m knitting Bodhi the size S (34″) with short sleeves, and I’m using Sandesgarn Double Sunday<\/a> in Beige Heather and Whipped Cream<\/p>\n\n\n\nPrep for Construction<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
This pullover is knit from the top-down. The yoke is knit first, and then the body and sleeves are separated. The body is worked in the round to the hem, and the sleeves are worked in the round to the cuffs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/Sweater-TopDown-Construction-TCK-sketch.svg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIt’s time to cast on! <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Choose the cast on you like best. I’m kinda basic, so I almost always use a long tail cast on<\/a>. It’s important to cast on loosely, especially in those wee sizes, because your knitting needs to stretch over a head.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Stitches](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8461-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nNext up is just a little ribbing. Good ol’ knit and purl!<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8504-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nCheck out our tutorial on casting on with circular needles<\/a> for tips on joining to work in the round. <\/p>\n\n\n\nAfter the ribbing a few sizes have an increase round. If m1’s are new to you check out our m1 tutorial here<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nTime for some lace<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8517-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhat IS lace, anyway?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
At it’s most basic, lace is a pattern or texture, created by putting some intentional holes in your knit fabric. The Cupcake sweater has some simple lace, using knits, purls, and the following stitches:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- yarn overs (yo) increases<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- knit two together (k2tog) right leaning decrease<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- slip-slip-knit (ssk) left leaning decrease<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- sl1-k2tog-psso double decrease<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
The most visible part of a lace pattern are the holes. These are made with a yarn-over (yo) stitch. A less visible but critical part of lace patterns are the decreases. Because a yo is an increase, which adds a stitch to the count, we must balance each yo with a decrease stitch, in order for the stitch count of the piece to remain the same (resulting in a fabric that stays the same width). <\/p>\n\n\n\n
In this yoke, however, we occasionally want to add stitches, without balancing, to increase the stitch count. On round 11 you’ll find there are 2 yarn overs, but no decreases, so we are increasing the stitch count in that round. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To chart or not to chart? <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
The lace pattern is in two forms in this pattern: written out and chart. You can definitely follow the instructions line by line, but we always recommend trying the chart. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Knitting charts may LOOK unfamiliar and feel intimidating to you, but if you take it one stitch (one square) at a time it’ll start to make sense. Trust me \u2013 with a little bit of practice, most<\/em> knitters find working from charts makes lace patterns easier to follow, memorize, and troubleshoot.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWorking from a knitting chart isn’t difficult, but it involves a few conventions. Charts are worked from bottom to top, so you’ll find round 1 at the bottom of the chart. This sweater is knit in the round, so each charted round is read from right to left. Since this pattern is both written and charted you can compare the two until you get the hang of it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you feel like you need more info before taking on charts, check out our details post on knitting charts here<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\nCharts in the app:<\/strong> In the Tin Can Knits app there are a few useful chart features, you can highlight the row you’re on and give it a tap to advance to the next row. When you close the app and open it back up, your spot in the chart willl be saved and you’ll be right back to where you left off. <\/p>\n\n\n\nWanna take a deep dive?<\/strong> If you’re loving lace and want to learn more, check out our free email lace course<\/a>!<\/p>\n\n\n\nExtra markers<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you’re struggling to keep track of stitches and repeats, markers can help. In the image below I’ve placed markers after each chart repeat, so I know right away if something has gone off. I used a different style of marker (actually just attaching a locking stitch marker to a circular stitch marker) to indicate the beginning of round. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8524-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8548-web.jpg?resize=683%2C1024&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLace complete! I’m ready for a little colourwork. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Colourwork<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you’re working your Cupcake in a single colour you can ignore the last 4 rounds of the chart, and this section. Tap here to skip to the next section. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This sweater has only 4 little rounds of colourwork, but it creates quite a lovely scalloped effect. Colourwork sounds VERY complicated, and can look really fancy. Many knitters hear colourwork and have visions of tiny tangled balls of yarn, puckered knitting, and a general mess. I promise you it won’t come to that! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the Cupcake sweater we’re just using two colours (in fact, most colourwork only uses 2 colours at a time!), and all of our stitches are knit. You can follow the chart or written instructions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Your first round of colourwork, round 23, you’ll knit 1 stitch in your main colour, then 7 stitches in your contrast colour. You’ll repeat this sequence all the way around. Easy right? <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The only thing to consider here is keeping that float nice and loose. The float is the yarn that is in behind while you’re working other stitches. So while you’re working 7 stitches in your contrast colour the main colour just sort of hangs out in behind. Then you’ll pick up that main colour to work your single stitch and you’ll need to make sure that the little strand in the back is loose enough that those 7 stitches aren’t puckering. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you’re loving colourwork, or you want a little more detail before embarking, check out our Colourwork 101 tutorial<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8552-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-9095-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nI didn’t trap my floats for this project, but you absolutely can if you prefer it! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Short rows and raglan shaping<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
The Cupcake sweater includes short-row shaping at the back of the yoke for sizes 2-4 and up. We like to skip the short rows for the little ones, since they barely have necks yet, and it’s pretty awesome to be able to put the sweater on without a difference between back and front. These short rows are worked after the colourwork, and they are worked at the same time as the raglan increases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Short-row shaping adds a crescent of fabric that raises the back of neckline relative to the front neckline, so there’s a subtle dip in the front neck opening. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
German short-rows<\/a> are our favourite method, and we’ve included instructions for this style in the pattern \u2013 but if you’ve got another method you prefer, go for it!<\/p>\n\n\n\nFirst you’ll place all of your raglan markers. Your BOR (beginning of round) marker is located at the centre back, and you’ll place markers indicating the sleeves, front, and back of the sweater. In the image below my yarn is at the centre back, BOR marker, and you can see my 4 raglan markers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8568-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nFor this pattern you’re working your short rows at the same time as your raglan shaping. To create the raglan shaping you’re going to increase on either side of each marker. There are lots of increase methods you can use here, but I like to use a classic m1<\/a>. I use a m1R before the marker and a m1L after the marker. If you’re interested in different increase lines and increase methods we’ve got a tutorial on increase lines here<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8574-web.jpg?resize=683%2C1024&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nHere you can see I’ve got a crescent of fabric that creates more fabric at the back than the front. It looks a little funky, but trust me, it’ll be great. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8583-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nHere’s a close up of my raglan line, with my m1R before the marker and m1L after. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Once you’ve completed the short rows, you’re back at centre back (CB) of the sweater, and you’re ready to proceed to the most magical part of a seamless top-down sweater…body and sleeve separation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/CupcakeSweater-TCK-8595-web.jpg?resize=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nHere’s my yoke, ready for separation! <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
Separate for the body and sleeves at the underarms<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
You’ve reached the end of the yoke, and it’s time to separate your BIG cone-shaped tube into three smaller tubes for the body and two sleeves!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This can seem like a confusing and intimidating step the first time you do it, but take a deep breath…and one part at a time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The first thing I like to do is mark where my sleeves will be with locking stitch markers, so I can do all the counting up front. This is also an excellent moment to count your stitches, so you know if you’ve made an error somewhere. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are three main parts to this separation round. Some of the stitches \u2013 the ones that will flow down and make the back and front of the sweater \u2013 you’ll knit across. Other stitches \u2013 the ones that will flow down into the sleeves of the sweater \u2013 get put on hold on waste yarn<\/a> for now. And at each underarm, you’ll need to add a few stitches by casting on with the backwards loop cast-on method<\/a>. At the end, you’ll have a body tube on your needle and two sets of sleeve stitches placed on hold to be worked later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.tincanknits.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/sweater-separation-all-TCK-diagram.jpg?resize=1024%2C618&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Follow these steps to make your Cupcake sweater:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n If you’re unfamiliar with knitting-pattern conventions, this multi-size pattern might feel intimidating, so we’ve got an in-depth tutorial on how to read a knitting pattern<\/a> that you might find useful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first thing you\u2019ll decide is what yarn to use. This pattern is written for DK or sport weight yarn, at a gauge of 22 stitches per 4″. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Our knits:<\/strong> We’ve used Tanis Fiber Arts Purewash DK<\/a>, Puzzle Tree Yarns DK+<\/a>, and Ritual Dyes Sprite<\/a> for our samples. For this tutorial I’m using Sandesgarn Double Sunday<\/a> in Beige Heather and Whipped Cream.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Working in one colour is easy peasy: just pick your favourite colour and go! If you’re working a 2-colour sweater we’ve got a couple of tips: <\/p>\n\n\n\n I knit up a few swatches to test out some colour combos. I loved the tone on tone, but I found that two quite different colours worked well too! My blue and green swatch and my pink and blue swatch both have entirely different colours, but it works. I did all of my swatches with the darker colour on the bottom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n For a couple of my swatches I used a sock held together with a mohair, and I quite liked the effect of the mohair halo. I might just have to knit up another Cupcake sweater with that combo! <\/p>\n\n\n\n Still not sure which yarn you want to use? Check out our tutorial on choosing a sweater yarn.<\/a> The most important thing is that you select a yarn you<\/strong> are happy working with \u2013 and one that will be able to meet one of the three pattern gauges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I already know about choosing a size, take me to the cast on! <\/p>\n\n\n\n Everyone has different preferences when it comes to garment fit. As a knitter, you’ll get to know your own preferences over time and learn to select a pattern size with those preferences in mind. If this is your first sweater project, I suggest reviewing our in-depth tutorials on how to select a size<\/a> and what ‘ease’ is<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hunter is wearing size SM (36.5″) with about 1″ positive ease. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Bodhi is wearing size S (34″) with about 2″ of positive ease. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n For kiddos you probably want positive ease, they tend to grow quickly in my experience! For yourself…well that’s a little more personal. We wrote the pattern with a neutral fit in mind, but consider what you <\/strong>like and how you<\/strong> want to wear your sweater.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Margot is wearing size 3-6 months (18″) with about 2″ of positive ease.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n What about lengths? <\/strong>While you’ve likely selected your size based on the finished chest dimension, consider how lengths at the body and sleeves for this size will suit you. Remember, if you plan to lengthen any of the garment dimensions, you\u2019ll probably need extra yarn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Are you enjoying this tutorial? Find out when all of our helpful tutorials are released by signing up for our email updates!<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n I know about swatching: take me to the cast on!<\/p>\n\n\n\n The next step is the swatch. We\u2019ve written a bit about swatching and gauge here for more information<\/a>. Suffice to say that if your large, blocked swatch doesn\u2019t match the garment design gauge, your sweater will not end up the size that you picked\u2026 it\u2019ll be bigger or smaller. You may still love it\u2026 but I don’t think I’d take that risk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Since you are swatching for a pullover, knit in the round, the most critical gauge is your stockinette gauge worked in the round. While there is a little lace at the neckline, this won’t affect the fit, so stockinette gauge is key. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The sweater is knit in the round, so you’ll want to swatch in the round. Wait, Alexa, why can’t I knit a flat swatch?! Lots of knitters have a different tension in their knits vs. their purls, so their stockinette gauge back and forth (knitting one row and purling the next) is different than their gauge worked in the round, where all stitches are knits. There are a couple of ways to do this. You can either knit a small tube and cut it, or you can work a speed swatch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Tube Swatch:<\/strong> To make a tubular swatch you can use the Magic Loop method<\/a>, or DPNs, to knit a small tube. Cast on about 6-8″ worth of stitches, work a few rows in garter (knit 1 round, purl 1 round), then work about 6″ of stockinette, then a few more garter stitch rows and bind off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Speed Swatch:<\/strong> A speed swatch is worked on circular needles or DPNs, a right side row (knit) is worked, and then the stitches are moved to the other end of the needle and the yarn is carried across the back, so you can work another right side row. This way you are always knitting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The benefit of the tubular swatch is that it’s a little less fussy to knit, while the speed swatch has lots of yarn carried behind that can get a bit messy. Once you’ve cut your tube though you can’t re-use that yarn, but with a speed swatch you can unravel and use that yarn in a pinch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Don’t forget to block your swatch!<\/strong> Lots of yarns change significantly with blocking so skipping this step is NOT recommended. You want to treat your swatch exactly like you’ll treat your finished garment. If you plan to toss it in the washer and dryer, do that with your swatch too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There’s LOADS of situations where Alexa and I skip the swatch… but knitting adult garments for ourselves is NOT one of those situations! If I’m knitting a baby, toddler, or kid sweater though… I suppose you can go ahead and skip the swatch! It’s bound to come out fitting somebody<\/em><\/strong>…<\/p>\n\n\n\n We have some suggestions on how to select a sweater yarn<\/a>, and make a gauge swatch<\/a> to learn what needles<\/a> you will use for the majority of the knit. If you simply cannot get exactly the stitch gauge we call for, and don’t want to change yarns, you may want to learn about knitting patterns at a different gauge<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n If you’re worried because your round gauge (that’s how many rounds in 4″)<\/em> isn’t same as our pattern, relax… in this pattern it won’t really matter… but you have more rounds per inch you may want to buy an extra ball, as a difference in round gauge can effect yardage requirements. <\/p>\n\n\n\n One of the things that can be confusing when you\u2019re a newer knitter is understanding which needles you\u2019ll need for a project\u2026 and why the pattern lists SO MANY. <\/p>\n\n\n\n For this project, you’ll need smaller diameter needles for the ribbing at neckline, cuffs, and hem. You’ll need larger diameter needles for the remainder of the knit. For the smallest sweater sizes, one set of needles will do, but as the garment gets bigger, you’ll need longer circular needles to accommodate all those stitches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n For the sleeves, which are knit in the round, you’ll need either DPNs<\/a> or a long circular needle for the Magic Loop method<\/a>. Whichever style you prefer is just fine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n For my sweater I’m knitting Bodhi the size S (34″) with short sleeves, and I’m using Sandesgarn Double Sunday<\/a> in Beige Heather and Whipped Cream<\/p>\n\n\n\n This pullover is knit from the top-down. The yoke is knit first, and then the body and sleeves are separated. The body is worked in the round to the hem, and the sleeves are worked in the round to the cuffs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Choose the cast on you like best. I’m kinda basic, so I almost always use a long tail cast on<\/a>. It’s important to cast on loosely, especially in those wee sizes, because your knitting needs to stretch over a head.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Next up is just a little ribbing. Good ol’ knit and purl!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Check out our tutorial on casting on with circular needles<\/a> for tips on joining to work in the round. <\/p>\n\n\n\n After the ribbing a few sizes have an increase round. If m1’s are new to you check out our m1 tutorial here<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At it’s most basic, lace is a pattern or texture, created by putting some intentional holes in your knit fabric. The Cupcake sweater has some simple lace, using knits, purls, and the following stitches:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The most visible part of a lace pattern are the holes. These are made with a yarn-over (yo) stitch. A less visible but critical part of lace patterns are the decreases. Because a yo is an increase, which adds a stitch to the count, we must balance each yo with a decrease stitch, in order for the stitch count of the piece to remain the same (resulting in a fabric that stays the same width). <\/p>\n\n\n\n In this yoke, however, we occasionally want to add stitches, without balancing, to increase the stitch count. On round 11 you’ll find there are 2 yarn overs, but no decreases, so we are increasing the stitch count in that round. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The lace pattern is in two forms in this pattern: written out and chart. You can definitely follow the instructions line by line, but we always recommend trying the chart. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Knitting charts may LOOK unfamiliar and feel intimidating to you, but if you take it one stitch (one square) at a time it’ll start to make sense. Trust me \u2013 with a little bit of practice, most<\/em> knitters find working from charts makes lace patterns easier to follow, memorize, and troubleshoot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Working from a knitting chart isn’t difficult, but it involves a few conventions. Charts are worked from bottom to top, so you’ll find round 1 at the bottom of the chart. This sweater is knit in the round, so each charted round is read from right to left. Since this pattern is both written and charted you can compare the two until you get the hang of it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n If you feel like you need more info before taking on charts, check out our details post on knitting charts here<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Charts in the app:<\/strong> In the Tin Can Knits app there are a few useful chart features, you can highlight the row you’re on and give it a tap to advance to the next row. When you close the app and open it back up, your spot in the chart willl be saved and you’ll be right back to where you left off. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Wanna take a deep dive?<\/strong> If you’re loving lace and want to learn more, check out our free email lace course<\/a>!<\/p>\n\n\n\n If you’re struggling to keep track of stitches and repeats, markers can help. In the image below I’ve placed markers after each chart repeat, so I know right away if something has gone off. I used a different style of marker (actually just attaching a locking stitch marker to a circular stitch marker) to indicate the beginning of round. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Lace complete! I’m ready for a little colourwork. <\/p>\n\n\n\n If you’re working your Cupcake in a single colour you can ignore the last 4 rounds of the chart, and this section. Tap here to skip to the next section. <\/p>\n\n\n\n This sweater has only 4 little rounds of colourwork, but it creates quite a lovely scalloped effect. Colourwork sounds VERY complicated, and can look really fancy. Many knitters hear colourwork and have visions of tiny tangled balls of yarn, puckered knitting, and a general mess. I promise you it won’t come to that! <\/p>\n\n\n\n For the Cupcake sweater we’re just using two colours (in fact, most colourwork only uses 2 colours at a time!), and all of our stitches are knit. You can follow the chart or written instructions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Your first round of colourwork, round 23, you’ll knit 1 stitch in your main colour, then 7 stitches in your contrast colour. You’ll repeat this sequence all the way around. Easy right? <\/p>\n\n\n\n The only thing to consider here is keeping that float nice and loose. The float is the yarn that is in behind while you’re working other stitches. So while you’re working 7 stitches in your contrast colour the main colour just sort of hangs out in behind. Then you’ll pick up that main colour to work your single stitch and you’ll need to make sure that the little strand in the back is loose enough that those 7 stitches aren’t puckering. <\/p>\n\n\n\n If you’re loving colourwork, or you want a little more detail before embarking, check out our Colourwork 101 tutorial<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n I didn’t trap my floats for this project, but you absolutely can if you prefer it! <\/p>\n\n\n\n The Cupcake sweater includes short-row shaping at the back of the yoke for sizes 2-4 and up. We like to skip the short rows for the little ones, since they barely have necks yet, and it’s pretty awesome to be able to put the sweater on without a difference between back and front. These short rows are worked after the colourwork, and they are worked at the same time as the raglan increases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Short-row shaping adds a crescent of fabric that raises the back of neckline relative to the front neckline, so there’s a subtle dip in the front neck opening. <\/p>\n\n\n\n German short-rows<\/a> are our favourite method, and we’ve included instructions for this style in the pattern \u2013 but if you’ve got another method you prefer, go for it!<\/p>\n\n\n\n First you’ll place all of your raglan markers. Your BOR (beginning of round) marker is located at the centre back, and you’ll place markers indicating the sleeves, front, and back of the sweater. In the image below my yarn is at the centre back, BOR marker, and you can see my 4 raglan markers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n For this pattern you’re working your short rows at the same time as your raglan shaping. To create the raglan shaping you’re going to increase on either side of each marker. There are lots of increase methods you can use here, but I like to use a classic m1<\/a>. I use a m1R before the marker and a m1L after the marker. If you’re interested in different increase lines and increase methods we’ve got a tutorial on increase lines here<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Here you can see I’ve got a crescent of fabric that creates more fabric at the back than the front. It looks a little funky, but trust me, it’ll be great. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Here’s a close up of my raglan line, with my m1R before the marker and m1L after. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Once you’ve completed the short rows, you’re back at centre back (CB) of the sweater, and you’re ready to proceed to the most magical part of a seamless top-down sweater…body and sleeve separation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here’s my yoke, ready for separation! <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n You’ve reached the end of the yoke, and it’s time to separate your BIG cone-shaped tube into three smaller tubes for the body and two sleeves!<\/p>\n\n\n\n This can seem like a confusing and intimidating step the first time you do it, but take a deep breath…and one part at a time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first thing I like to do is mark where my sleeves will be with locking stitch markers, so I can do all the counting up front. This is also an excellent moment to count your stitches, so you know if you’ve made an error somewhere. <\/p>\n\n\n\n There are three main parts to this separation round. Some of the stitches \u2013 the ones that will flow down and make the back and front of the sweater \u2013 you’ll knit across. Other stitches \u2013 the ones that will flow down into the sleeves of the sweater \u2013 get put on hold on waste yarn<\/a> for now. And at each underarm, you’ll need to add a few stitches by casting on with the backwards loop cast-on method<\/a>. At the end, you’ll have a body tube on your needle and two sets of sleeve stitches placed on hold to be worked later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nSelect your materials: yarn, size \u2013 and make a gauge swatch<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nChoosing a size<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSwatch for satisfaction (for a garment, gauge is critical!)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nUnderstanding what needles you\u2019ll need<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPrep for Construction<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIt’s time to cast on! <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nTime for some lace<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhat IS lace, anyway?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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To chart or not to chart? <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Extra markers<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nColourwork<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nShort rows and raglan shaping<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nSeparate for the body and sleeves at the underarms<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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