The beautiful, energetic and eclectic Lee Meredith, creator of Leethal Knits, is a southern California to Portland transplant.
Lee chose to make her home in Portland because she fell in love with the city’s vibrant DIY and indie design scene at a time when this kind of community was hard to find.
Leethal Knits patterns feature many options for size, design, and yarn weights – this makes knitting her designs an adventure with great possibilities for creative use of colour!
Alexa got to know Lee last year at TNNA (check out the knitted mustaches…), and I had the pleasure of meeting her in Portland while I was teaching and signing books on the west coast last October. I find her playful attitude toward design, and her bold and unrelenting use of colour very inspiring!
What we love from Leethal Knits
I admire Lee’s attitude toward colour, and the way she combines colour with pattern and texture. Her designs also use unique construction methods to great effect, so they are interesting projects to knit, as well as being exquisite finished objects!
Another favourite of mine are Leethal’s Either/Or mittens (part of the Remixed Collection). These fingerless (or full) mitts are a very special design, with a unique construction – knit starting from the thumb outwards.
As with many Leethal patterns, these mittens can be knit in any weight of yarn, and the construction is emphasized by stripes, garter stitch, or colour changing yarns. The flexibility in her patterns is excellent for beginners and creative knitters!
What Lee has to say about her work, and design in general :::
After my recent post about my own design process (as it applies to knitting patterns, and my own work), I asked Lee what she thought ~ here is a mini-interview with her take on design for hand knitting.
Emily: What inspired you to take the leap from knitting to designing in the first place?
Lee: When I first started knitting in college (about 10 years ago) I was self-taught, and this was in the pre-ravelry dark ages, and pre the abundance of awesome modern knitting books we have nowadays. So basically, I taught myself knitting techniques from intro books and random websites, but didn’t use patterns, so everything I knit from the very beginning was technically my own design, though they started out very basic.
After a couple years of garter stitch scarfs, stockinette hats, and other basics, with new techniques I learned incorporated into them (like, learn cables, make a hat with cables), I discovered Knitty (check out Lee’s free pattern Superduper… it’s on the cover of the latest issue!) and other free patterns online and learned how patterns worked in general. So after a couple more years of occasionally knitting from a pattern, but mostly just continuing to learn new techniques by reading patterns, and then improvising my own stuff, I finally realized that I could write my creations into patterns! I think Ravelry was a big factor with this realization – seeing the huge community of knitters out there who wanted to knit from patterns. I had already been “designing” for years, by improvising my knits, so it made sense to teach myself how to write patterns, and start teaching other knitters how to make my stuff!
Emily: What is your favourite part of the job as a pattern designer?
Lee: My favorite part is definitely the designing itself – getting the seed of an idea, brainstorming, swatching, sketching, writing out parts, until it develops into the design, and then knitting it and watching it turn into a real item! So satisfying! (Plus, I really love that I can watch movies and tv shows during a big chunk of my work process!) Another part I really love is getting to see other people knit my designs and enjoy them, through ravelry projects and forum posts. Knowing that the patterns are out there in the world making other knitters happy is a really fantastic feeling!
Emily: Could you tell the story of one of your designs?
Plus, there had been more and more mystery KALs popping up over the years, so I decided I wanted to come up with an idea to differentiate my next KAL from the rest. And because of the way I tend to design, and think about design, I knew I could incorporate lots of different options, both to make it more exciting, and to help prevent unhappy knitters – if everyone could choose design options for every part of the project, they’d be much more likely to end up with something they liked in the end! I could even expand on that further by offering different items to choose from… so as the brainstorming process went on, it hit me, a Choose-Your-Own-Adventure style knit-a-long!
Pick your item, pick from a selection of different options for each section of the knit-a-long; there could even be some kind of story or something, with like code names for the options so it’s still a mystery KAL. I sat on this idea for a while, knowing it had major potential, but not having a clear vision for how to put the whole thing together… Then it was one of those epiphany moments where an idea just hits out of thin air – I could turn each week’s knit-a-long clues into a mini-booklet, so that there’d be pages, so the Choose-Your-Own-Adventure inspired choices could actually say “if you want to do this option, turn to page 11″ etc, with each knitting pattern option on its own page of the booklet. And then each week there would be a new booklet, and at the end you could use them altogether, as a full on Choose-Your-Own-Adventure style knitting pattern!
Then it developed into figuring out how to bind the booklets all together, and I ended up making more than just one booklet per week/section, and in the end, it’s an 80 page DIY book, with 4 different items and 20 different stitch patterns! That seed of an idea really took on a life of its own – I had no idea where it would end up when I first starting thinking about a mystery knit-a-long with multiple options; I’m so happy with where I was able to take it! (Side note: participants had a fantastic time with the first one last year, so I am planning on making it an annual event every summer!)
There are two questions I am often asked by knitters and enthusiasts:
1. Where do you get your inspiration?
2. What is your design process?
This month on the blog we will reveal our pattern design and development process, speak to other knitting pattern designers about their relationship with design, and provide some tips and tricks for knitters who want to branch out into design!
INSPIRATION IS OMNIPRESENT
The question “Where do you get your inspiration” is total bollocks.
Inspiration is all around us, omnipresent. In the architecture of the nearby church, in the waves of the ocean, in the retro shirt I discovered at a thrift shop, in the precise green of my husband’s eyes. In the autumn colours on my morning run, or the bright contrasts of neon lights. I could go on, well… probably forever. I find inspiration just by looking around and observing the beauty in my world (and I’m sure you do too… although you may not recognize it as such). It is simply always there, and everywhere!
The difference between designers and people who say “I’m not creative” is that designers recognize the beauty in the world around them as inspiration for things they want to make. It’s not such a great leap… let’s look at the process.
INSPIRATION + DESIRE = DESIGN
For me, inspiration translates to design through the vehicle of desire. It could be the desire to own a beautiful handmade object, or the desire to make something exquisite and unique for a loved one, or simply the the desire to challenge yourself creatively, or answer a ‘what if’ question.
EXAMPLE ::: wave lace > estuary > low tide
Let me tell you a story about a few of my favourite designs.
I love my Mom, and I wanted to make something really special for her 60th birthday (this is the DESIRE part of the equation).
wave lace stitch pattern
Where did I begin? My INSPIRATIONS: my mother has the most beautiful blue eyes, and looks great in blue that brings them out. She is an avid sailor, and loves the ocean, and we have spent some of our best times together out on the water and walking along the beach. So I wanted to use the colour blue and design a lace stitch pattern inspired by the ocean.
Many hours of swatching later, I had developed an organic and original lace stitch pattern, which (with the help of my fav lace yarn, SweetGeorgia Cashsilk Lace), became a beautiful lace scarf.
There was a simplicity to the wave lace scarf, but I decided I wanted to re-use the lace stitch pattern in a larger scale, more complex piece. Starting with the structure and logic of the little lace pattern, I created a larger-scale, more detailed lace stitch pattern, and combined the two stitch patterns to make the Estuary Shawl (free pattern, perfect for challenging your lace skills).
Low Tide Cardigan
While creating these two knits, I noticed that the wave lace pattern had a strong bias to it; and I held it up to my body, and imagined how, as a bodice, it would make a really great v-neck neckline. And so I asked myself “what if this were the bodice of a swoopy, lacy, lightweight cardigan?”.
We were working on Pacific Knits at the time, and I was feeling nostalgic for the beautiful beaches and ocean scenes of my childhood home on Vancouver Island. These inspirations and a desire to challenge myself lead to the design of the Low Tide cardigan; which I knit in a silvery grey reminiscent of the graphic wave patterns left in the sand at low tide.
What does the design process LOOK like?
Once you have your INSPIRATION plus your DESIRE, you can generate a BIG IDEA. When the big idea strikes (often in the shower, or just as you are drifting off to sleep), you must capture it by getting it down on a bit of paper… a sticky note, an index card, a napkin… it doesn’t matter, but don’t let it get away!
BIG IDEA in place, the development of the design is all about details! Picking a yarn (if you haven’t already), making swatches, determining the details that will support the ‘big idea’, the technical process of writing the pattern, calculating stitch counts for an extensive set of sizes (this is called ‘grading’ the pattern), testing the pattern, and getting it professionally edited and photographed!
Stay tuned for our upcoming post about the nitty gritty specifics of the pattern development process – we’ll be giving you a behind-the-scenes peek at what our job really entails.
What inspires YOU? What would YOU like to create?
Everyone, even those who deny their creativity, have the capacity to find beauty and inspiration in the world. What do you find beautiful? If you felt like you have the skills and ability, what would you like to create?
A few of Emily’s favourite Tin Can Knits designs :::
I used to hate Valentines Day. I’m a bit of an un-romatic (unlike Emily, who is a rather romantic gal) and so Valentines seemed a little like an obligation and fraught with possibilities for let downs and social awkwardness. Now that I have 2 little kiddies though, every holiday is an opportunity for crafting and baking! There will be cupcakes, cookies, crocheted balls, and an adorable i heart rainbows hat!
i heart rainbows is a matching sweater and hat set from our first book, 9 Months of Knitting (the hat is a *free* pattern!). We wanted something super sweet for a little one and rainbows fit the bill. We are children of the 80′s after all, Rainbow Brite was kind of a big deal.
I thought Hunter could use a bit of whimsy for Valentines so I whipped up this hat using one of my favorite colourful yarns: Tanis Fiber Arts. While I adore the original rainbow, I thought something more subdued was in order for Valentines. I used Yellow Label DK instead in of sock yarn, since I had all the right colours in DK (see more about my Tanis obsession here and here). I followed the pattern for i heart rainbows hat with the following changes:
Pattern Changes: Since I was using DK weight yarn I had to make a few changes. I cast on 96 sts for the ribbing and increased to 100 sts after. I worked a my rainbow, my heart chart, and my rainbow in reverse, then I knit in MC until the hat was 5″ . For the decrease set up round I knit 10 then placed marker, the rest is according to pattern.
i heart rainbows hat project details:
Yarn: Tanis Fiber Arts Yellow Label DK in Frost, Royal Flush, Pink Grapefruit, and Poppy
Needles: 3.5mm for the ribbing, and 4mm for the rest
Pattern: i heart rainbows hat (with the above alterations)
Jones loves to throw balls. It’s a little uncanny how accurate he is and how much entertainment he gets from throwing them one after another. He loves to throw them with a pre-emptive ‘throw!’ too. When I saw these crochet balls on the Purlbee I knew they were perfect. Soft (now more goose eggs for Hunter) and a great opportunity to practice my weak crochet skills. I whipped up a set of three and immediately I was hooked. The possibilities of stripes and solids, big and small, it was endless! I gave the first set to my neighbour’s son for his birthday and then I got started on Jonesies for Valentines!
crochet balls project details
Yarn: Tanis Fiber Arts Yellow Label DK in: Blue: Frost, Seabreeze, Teal. Pink: Royal Flush, Pink Grapefruit, Sunset. Green: Buttercup, Lemon Grass, Spearmint. Purple: Garnet, Lilac, Velvet
Hook: 3.5mm crochet hook
Pattern: Crochet balls from the Purlbee
What are you working on for Valentines? Something sweet for a loved one?
More sweet patterns from Tin Can Knits
This project has been in the works for….a while. I’m almost embarrassed to say that I cast this sweater on the day before Jones was born, the day after Pacific Knits went to print. It was a crazy couple of weeks and I just had to cast something on for my new wee babe. Well, it’s about 18 months later, the sweater certainly won’t fit Jones, but I did it!
Our original Campfire sweater is knit in a rather subdued palette, beige and browns for a really classic look. It’s a sweater I imagined being passed down in timeless colours and a simple fair isle motif. Once Pacific Knits was finished though, I had a wild craving for crazy colours!
Wild Campfire Project Details:
Yarn: Madelinetosh Tosh Sport, 2 skeins in Grasshopper, 1 in Chamomile, and 1 in Cousteau
Needles: US #4 / 3.5mm and US #6/ 4mm needles
Pattern: Campfire by Alexa Ludeman
Size: 0-6 months
One of my favorite things about this sweater has to be the collar. I’m a sucker for a shawl collar and this one is so squishy and lovely. The 2×2 rib and increased stitches create a nice drape to the collar that makes it cozy.
So I’ve pulled out one of my long lost UFO’s, how about you? What projects are lurking in the back of your closet?
More fair isle from Tin Can Knits:
Located at the centre front of your cardigan, the button band is a crucial detail. Working your first button band can be intimidating, and even experienced knitters don’t always get them right the first time.
The great thing is, since they are applied after-the-fact, you can easily rip and start over if you don’t get it right the first time.
Basic Steps for Working a Button Band :::
1. Start with the non-buttonhole side, pick up stitches at the rate suggested by the pattern. Note the total number of stitches picked up. Work the number or rows or inches specified, and note the total number of rows worked, and the side (WS or RS) and method used for binding off (you’ll want to make the other side the same).
Tip: Once you have completed the non-buttonhole side, you can assess whether you like the effect. Is the fabric dense enough (sometimes you need to go down an extra needle size or 2 to get a really tidy / tight ribbing, or perhaps you need to pick up less stitches (or more stitches) to get a band that doesn’t flare or pull in relative to the body of the garment). If you like the look of this band, then you can proceed to working the buttonhole side.
2. Choose the number and kind of buttons you will use. Lay them out against the completed band to see how they will look. Buttons can totally ‘make’ a project… we’ve written a whole post on it here! You must also pick a buttonhole method (or use the one suggested by the pattern) – the buttonholes will be 1, 2, 3, or more stitches wide.
There are many techniques for creating buttonholes. My preferred method is a simple yarn-over buttonhole (work yo, k2tog), because it is simple, and creates a tidy small hole. As yarn is quite stretchy, you can fit a surprisingly large button through this hole. If you are using larger buttons, you will need to use a slightly more complex method to create larger buttonholes.
To make a 3-stitch buttonhole in 1 row:
Slip next 2 sts. Pass the first st over the second (bind off), *sl 1, bind
this st off* twice. Sl st from right needle onto left needle. Turn work
and cast on 3 st knit wise. (If you find this buttonhole is too big or too small, you can work
similar buttonholes by binding off then casting on 1, 2, or 4 sts in the
The buttonholes created are, unfortunately, not terribly beautiful, but they are effective. They are covered up by the button, anyways! For a slightly ‘tidier’ version of this method, check out this tutorial. Before you proceed to make your first button band, you may want to test out a couple of these methods on a swatch, and see how they work with your desired buttons.
3. Now you have decided on the number of buttonholes, the type of buttonhole, and you know the number of stitches and rows in your button band. You are now ready to do the math. Work through the example below, using your own numbers.
How to Calculate Buttonhole Spacing :::
For this example I am going to work five 2-stitch buttonholes spaced evenly in a 65 stitch band. How do I calculate where they go? I always draw a diagram, because my mind works best that way…
So you can see that I have a 65 stitch band, with 5 buttonholes in it. Each buttonhole is 2 stitches wide, so the total stitches used by the buttonholes are 10. 65 – 10 = 55 stitches remaining.
Next you must determine how many stitches to work in between the button holes. There will always be one more ‘space’ than there are buttons. So there are six in this case. 55 / 6 = 9.1666 but stitches can only be whole numbers. So you must work back from 9. 9 x 6 = 54. 55 – 54 = 1. This means that there is one section that will have an extra stitch (10 rather than 9).
So now that you know that there are 5 sections with 9 stitches, and one with 10, you can draw out the button band, and double check the math.
Lastly, all you have to do is work the button-hole row, in this case you will work as follows:
[work 9 sts in pattern, work buttonhole] five times, work last 10 sts in pattern to end
4. Once you’ve done the math, pick up and work half the rows, work the buttonhole row as calculated, work the following even rows, keeping in pattern, and then bind off! Your button bands are done. Sew your buttons on to the band opposite, aligning them with the buttonholes.
Tip: I like to sew through the button itself 4-5 times, then wrap the yarn around the base of the button (directly between the button and the band), then secure the thread on the back side of the band). If the yarn I knit with is too bulky to fit through the button, I often untwist it and use one or 2 plies to sew the buttons on; for tiny buttons I use matching thread.
Buttons are fun – play!
There are lots of interesting things you can do with buttons… they don’t have to be evenly spaced, for example. You can button a cardigan just at the top, and let it flare open below, or you can use a single button! Sometimes high-contrast buttons, or mismatched buttons can add great charm to a garment.
Now that you can work a button band…
While the Simple Collection’s Flax sweater carefully chronicles the basics of a top down sweater, the Antler cardi employs our other favorite construction: bottom up! The Antler Cardigan pattern is available here, get your pattern, your materials, and let’s get going!
Before starting any sweater, but especially an adult sweater, you want to make sure you review our tutorial on gauge to ensure your sweater comes out to the dimensions you want, and learn about choosing your size to ensure you get a sweater that fits the way you want it to. Make sure you read the whole tutorial through before you start, so you can pick up our helpful hints!
- Antler is adorable on little boys and girls and grown up ladies too! Make a little size to learn the techniques, or jump off the deep end and get started on a sweater for yourself.
::: Sleeves :::
Why start with the sleeves? The best reason to start with the sleeves is to get a gauge swatch without a gauge swatch. Just knit about 5 inches of sleeve and check your gauge and whether or not you are satisfied with the fabric. If you like it and you are on gauge, just keep going, if not you only have a bit of sleeve to rip out.
To knit the sleeves you will be casting on at the cuff and working to the underarm. You can use either double pointed needles (DPN’s) to start, or a long circular for magic loop. For casting on onto DPN’s you can check out our tutorial here, and for more information on knitting in the round on DPN’s look here. For magic loop look here.
So, using the smaller needles cast on the number of stitches for your size. You can either place a marker if you are using magic loop, or distribute your stitches as follows if you are using DPN’s:
Distributing your stitches on DPN’s: I am a die hard DPN fan, but you can’t place a marker on the beginning or end of a needle. So instead I put about 1/2 of my stitches on the first needle, 1/4 on the second and third needles. This way I always know the beginning of my round starts at the beginning of the ‘big’ or ‘full’ needle. No markers required!
Once you have completed the ribbing, you will change to larger needles and start working your sleeve increases. Changing to larger needles is simpler than it sounds, instead of continuing to work with your smaller needles, just start working with the larger ones. No need to move stitches, just start knitting.
Sleeve Increases ::: You can certainly m1 (make 1) any which way you like but my favorite is the paired increase. Once the number of increases for your size have been worked, you will knit each round until your piece measures the specified length or the desired length to underarm. Measure twice!
Next you will put your sleeve stitches on hold using waste yarn. You will be putting your underarm sts on hold on one piece of waste yarn, and the other half on hold with another piece (all will become clear later!).
Helpful Hint ::: How to avoid ‘ladders’ - Ladders look kind of like runs in a stocking. They are loose stitches and gaps in the fabric that sometimes occur between the last stitch of one needle and the first stitch of the next. How can you avoid this? Simply make sure to give an extra tug to your yarn on the first stitch of a needle, this will make it extra tight and prevent ladders.
Making 2 the same ::: There is nothing worse than finishing a sweater and finding out your sleeves are not the same size, so make a few helpful notes along the way!
1. How many rows in your ribbing?
2. How many rows after you finish your increases?
3. Did I knit anything that was NOT according to pattern? Make a note!
If you make these helpful notes you will have 2 identical sleeves just waiting for a body!
::: Body :::
This part is pretty easy peasy. Just cast on using smaller needles, working back and forth in ribbing pattern to specified length. Change to larger needles and work in stockinette (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until piece measures the length specified for your size or the desired length from underarm, ending with a WS (wrong side or purl) row.
::: Join Body and Sleeves :::
Now for the fun part: Once you join the body and sleeves it will start to look like an actual sweater!
You will be knitting across the right front, placing body stitches on hold for the underarm, knitting across the right sleeve, knitting across the back, knitting across the left sleeve, placing body stitches on hold for the underarm, and knitting across the left front.
Note: You will have stitches on waste yarn from both the sleeve and the body. These will be joined once the yoke is finished to create the underarm. They look something like this:
::: Yoke :::
Work the specified number of rows in stockinette before proceeding to the cable portion of the yoke.
Next Row: Knit decreasing ____ sts evenly spaced.
This may seem like a complicated instruction but follow along and we will do a little math. What this means is that you have X sts and you need to decrease Y sts for a total of Z sts. So how are we going to do this?
Take the number of stitches you have (X) and divide them by the number of sts you need to decrease (Y):
eg. For the Adult XS size this number is approximately 40. So you will decrease 1 stitch for every 40 stitches. Your decrease row will be: k38, k2tog. Because you need to decrease 5 sts for this size you will work that instruction 5 times and knit to the end.
Although this may seem unnecessarily complicated (why don’t we just do the math for you?!) it’s an instruction you will come across often in sweater patterns. If we wrote out each size every time we had to do a decrease round like this our patterns would be 10 pages long!
Time for cables! Each row has 2 edge stitches on either side and a number of cable repeats with the cables separated by 5 purl stitches. For instructions on how to cable, check out our tutorial here.
On the RS (right side) rows you will be working the cable chart, on the WS (wrong side) rows you will be working your stitches as established. What does this mean? You will be ‘knitting your knits and purling your purls’. In other words, if you see a knit, knit it, if you see a purl, purl it.
Repeat the cable pattern as many times as specified and proceed to decreases. The decreases are shown in the same manner as the cable section, but there are a few new symbols to note: purl 2 together, and the cable 4 back/front decreases.
The decreases that are worked within the cable (c4bd and c4fd) are worked using a knit 2 together within the cable. Read the chart carefully and make sure you double check all of the symbols.
Work decrease chart to specified row, then you will work another decrease row (decrease X sts evenly across the row)
Now you can switch to smaller needles and work in rib pattern for specified number of inches. Bind off.
::: Button Band :::
Button bands are picked up and worked last. You will be picking up about 4 stitches in every 5 rows. This means you will pick up 4 stitches, skip 1 row, pick up 4 sts, etc. and you will want to end up with an odd number of stitches in total.
Tip: make a note of the number of sts picked up on the first button band. You will want to pick up that same number on the other side.
Stay tuned for more on the buttonband! Next week we’ll be delving into button bands and buttonholes in more depth. Check back or follow us on Twitter or Facebook for a reminder when that post goes live
::: Finishing :::
Finishing a sweater can be the most important part. Block your sweater, seam your underarm sts using the kitchener stitch, and weave in your ends. There will be a small hole at either side of the seamed underarm, use your tail to sew that up. Sew on buttons corresponding to buttonholes.
You have put a lot of work into your first sweater so don’t skip blocking, it’s an important step. Blocking will make your stitches even out and lie flat and generally ‘smooth out’ your work. It’s easy to block a sweater out of proportion if you aren’t careful. Make sure you have your measuring tape handy and that your chest measurements and length are as desired.
Looking for more ‘how to’ tutorials? Check out The Simple Collection – our 100% free learn-to-knit series. The 8 fabulous free patterns sized from baby to big, and get started making modern seamless knits for the entire family! Like our work? Get our email updates and we will let you know about new patterns, tutorials, and events.
More Bottom-Up sweaters from Pacific Knits
The Harvest Cardigan is our gift to the lovely knitters of the world this Christmas, and it is also the final pattern in The Simple Collection, our 100% free learn-to-knit series.
Classic and easy to wear, this simple and seamless top down cardi is perfect to pull on over anything.
Is this your first garment? We’ll walk you through all the techniques, step-by-step, in our ‘Let’s Knit a Cardigan’ tutorial.
I photographed Harvest as the last golden leaves of fall were dropping from the trees, but now winter is here and a warm, snuggly cardigan is the perfect knit!
Harvest Project Details :::
yarn: Worsted / Aran weight yarn; see the pattern for yardage requirements. We used Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage in ‘glazed pecan’ and ‘smokestack’.
suggested needles: US 8/ 5mm and US 6 / 4mm
sizing: The pattern includes 7 baby-child sizes, and 10 adult sizes!
pattern: Free! Download the Harvest pattern now
::: Cleverly Simple Seamless Construction :::
Harvest is knit seamlessly from the top down, with a construction method that is interesting, yet very simple to work! The garter stitch collar is the base from which a typical, top-down raglan cardigan is begun. This wide garter collar flows seamlessly into a deep v-neck, which you can fasten under the bust with a pretty shawl pin for some va va voom! Or if you prefer buttons, you can work one or more buttonholes in the garter band, and pick a big bold button or three to adorn this simple cardi.
::: Adorable on little girls and boys :::
I love how Harvest suits little ones too! Hunter looks sweet and sophisticated in a soft grey, but there are many adorable versions of Harvest on girls and boys… check out other knitters’ projects on ravelry for inspiration!
::: The Simple Collection is for Sharing :::
This year, starting with the Wheat Scarf in June, and ending with the Harvest Cardigan this Christmas, we brought you The Simple Collection. We have invested untold hours and dollars into this project, to share our modern aesthetic, seamless construction techniques, and wide range of sizing with new knitters, and knitters who are new to Tin Can Knits.
Each of the 8 free patterns has the thoughtful details, clear pattern writing, and professional level of testing and tech-editing that you can trust from Tin Can Knits. And each pattern is accompanied by an in-depth tutorial, and blog posts outlining all of the techniques you need to make the project! Even if you have never cast on before, you can get started knitting (or teaching a friend) today.
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