Tin Can Knits

Knitting is a simple, satisfying, stitch-by-stitch pursuit. However, to follow a knitting pattern, a beginner must first learn a number of knitting-pattern conventions. These include abbreviations, charts, multi-size text instructions, sizing, and schematic diagrams. We hope this tutorial series helps to clarify your uncertainties!

Note: While each designer or publisher writes knitting patterns slightly differently, we tend to share common conventions. We describe our own Tin Can Knits pattern-writing conventions in these tutorials, but once you understand these conventions, the variations that other designers use will be easier to learn and understand.

Practice with a free pattern today!

Put your new learning to the test and get started with one of our free knitting patterns from The Simple Collection, a learn-to-knit series designed to help knitters make the next stitch and learn the next skill. And be sure to share this post with newer knitters you know who are still a little bit unclear about knitting-pattern conventions.

Are there any elements of pattern reading that you still find unclear? Comment on this post or contact us directly, so we can improve this teaching tool.

~ Emily and Alexa

Before you can cast on, you need to gather yarn and needles. The sizing and materials section of a knitting pattern will tell you everything you need.

Sizing and materials section

The sizing and materials section of a knitting pattern contains a lot of information presented in a compact format. In most patterns, this section contains several key parts, which we’ll look at in detail below.

Sizing

The sizing section uses either text or a table of values to provide the finished measurements of the item or the body measurement the item is designed to fit. In either case, it’s critical that you knit the project to the design gauge; this will ensure accurate dimensions and a good fit. The specifics of how these dimensions are measured may be noted on an accompanying schematic diagram or sketch.

Yarn

The yarn section lists how much yarn you’ll need and approximately what weight of yarn you’ll need. (For more information on yarn, check out our tutorial here.) Our patterns also list the specific yarn we used for our sample, along with a link to more information about it.

Gauge

The gauge section tells you the tension you must achieve for your knit to come out the right size. Tension or gauge is listed as the number of stitches and rows to achieve over four inches in a given stitch pattern, and it will vary from person to person. We hold our needles and yarn slightly differently; we are more tense or relaxed as we work. When it comes to tension, every knitter is unique! For a more detailed explanation, read our tutorial on the importance of gauge in knitting.

Suggested needles

This section lists the the needle sizes (i.e., the diameters), types, and lengths that are suggested to complete the project in your chosen size. However, the needle sizes are only suggestions. To achieve the finished dimensions for the size you want to make, you must knit with whatever needle size YOU require to achieve the design gauge. Read more about knitting needles here.

Notions

Some projects require a few extra materials or tools, for example the buttons needed for a cardigan, the cable needle required for a cabled hat, stitch markers, or darning needles. Notions are all the extra tools and materials you may need to complete your project.

This may be all you need to read in order to understand the sizing and materials section of a pattern, but we have included two detailed examples below, if needed.

Example A: Barley hat

The free Barley hat pattern has a sizing and materials section and a construction diagram that acts a bit like a schematic.

Sizing: Baby (Toddler, Child, Adult S, M, L)
Fits head 16 (17.5, 19, 20.5, 22, 23)” around

The Barley hat includes six sizes; they are listed in order from smallest to largest. Throughout the pattern, the sizes will be listed in this order consistently with round brackets, commas, and bolded adult sizes. For more about these conventions, check out Reading Multi-Size Knitting-Pattern Instructions.

The Barley hat pattern lists to-fit dimensions for each of the hat sizes underneath the size names. For example, the baby size is designed to fit a head 16″ in circumference. The adult M fits a 22″ head. It’s important to note that the pattern will fit these sizes only if you achieve the pattern gauge – more details on that in a minute.

Next up, the materials section contains four parts: yarn, gauge, suggested needles, and notions. Let’s look at how to interpret each section in detail.

Yarn: 70 (80, 90, 110, 150, 170) yards worsted / aran weight yarn (samples shown in Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage in ‘badlands,’ ‘thoreau,’ ‘twig,’ and ‘winter wheat’)

The yarn section indicates the amount and approximate weight of yarn needed. It also provides the specific yarn brand, type, and colourway used to make the design samples. Six amounts are given: 70 (80, 90, 110, 150, 170) yards. These amounts correspond to the six pattern sizes: Baby (Toddler, Child, Adult S, M, L). This means that for an Adult S size, you will need 110 yards of worsted or aran weight yarn.

Worsted weight and aran weight yarn are two weights of yarn, each of which will work in this project. (Learn the basics of knitting yarn here.) In this pattern example, Madelinetosh is a yarn brand; Tosh Vintage is a yarn type produced by that brand; and ‘badlands,, ‘thoreau,’ ‘twig,’ and ‘winter wheat‘ are the names of the specific colourways used to knit the design samples. To convert yards to metres, multiply yards by 0.914, e.g., 110 yds is approximately 100m (110 x 0.914 = 100.54).

Gauge: 18 sts & 22 rounds / 4” in stockinette
14 sts & 28 rounds / 4” in garter stitch
(both gauges given on larger needles)

The gauge section indicates the design gauge you’ll need to achieve for your finished knit to come out in the size expected (i.e., to the finished dimensions listed in the size section).

This gauge means that you’ll need to select a needle size that will result in a finished knit gauge of 18 stitches and 22 rounds in a 4″ square of stockinette stitch, and 14 stitches and 28 rounds in a 4″ square of garter stitch. In Tin Can Knits patterns, the gauge listed first is generally the more important one to achieve, if you cannot achieve both numbers using the same needle size.

Gauge is an important topic, so we have created a separate in-depth tutorial to explain just what it is, how to swatch for it, and how to measure it. Other posts on gauge include the following:

• Gauge in a Yoke Sweater: Understanding Where It Matters
• Measuring Gauge Over Lace
• How to Knit a Garment at a Different Gauge

Suggested Needles: US #6 / 4mm 16” circular needle,
US #8 / 5mm 16” circular needle and DPNs*
(or as required to meet gauge)
*Alternatively, you can use the magic loop technique to knit in the round using a single long circular needle.

Knitting needles, which come in many types and sizes for different uses, are a fairly complex topic, and we have an Introduction to Knitting Needles post here. The needles suggested for the Barley hat are:

• US #6 / 4mm 16″ long circular needle
• US #8 / 5mm diameter 16″ long circular needle
• US #8 / 5mm diameter double pointed needles (DPNs) or a long circular needle to use with the magic loop technique

What this means, in practice, is that you’ll need a smaller diameter needle for the brim ribbing and a larger diameter needle for the body. You’ll also need a set of DPNs, or a long circular in the larger diameter, in order to decrease at the crown.

It’s very important to recognize the line that says:

(or as required to meet gauge)

You may start with a US #8 / 5mm needle to make your gauge swatch; however, if you cannot achieve the tension stated in the gauge section, you’ll need to try again with a smaller or larger needle size, until you determine the needle diameter that allows you to achieve the design gauge.

For example, I might use a US #7 / 4.5mm needle to achieve the gauge of 18 sts / 4″ in stockinette. In this case, I would likely select a US #5 / 3.75mm needle as my ‘smaller needle’ with which to work the brim ribbing.

Notions: Stitch markers, darning needle

The notions section is a simple list of extra tools or materials you’ll need to complete the project. In this case, only stitch markers and a needle are required for the Barley hat.

Example B: Flax sweater

The free Flax sweater pattern, with seven child sizes and 12 adult sizes, uses a table, along with a schematic diagram to communicate the sizing information.

The sizing table lists finished garment measurements. This means that the dimensions listed for each size are the dimensions that the sweater will measure, assuming you follow that size’s instructions and knit to the design gauge. They are the dimensions of the garment itself. The pattern says to:

Choose a size based upon your chest measurement plus desired ease.

This means that, when knitting this sweater for yourself, you should consider your own body measurements and how much ease you prefer your sweaters to have – and then choose a size that will allow that much ease from your body. Learn about choosing your sweater size here.

The schematic works with the sizing table to visually indicate where the various dimension are measured. You can see that ‘d‘ is the key for the upper sleeve circumference, and then make sure that size XXL, which has a finished upper sleeve measurement of 17″, will work for you.

Next up, the materials section in the Flax pattern contains four parts: yarn, gauge, suggested needles, and notions – same as for the Barley hat pattern. Here we’ll briefly touch on the ways that this sweater pattern is different from the hat pattern.

Yarn: Worsted / aran weight yarn – see table for yardage
(samples shown in SweetGeorgia Superwash Worsted ‘deep olive,’ ‘hush,’ and ‘tumbled stone’)

The yarn section refers you to the sizing table, which has a column that lists yardage for each size alongside that size’s finished dimensions.

Gauge: 18 sts & 22 rounds / 4” in stockinette using larger needles

Because a sweater will take between 12 and 60 hours to knit, it’s incredibly important to ensure that you’re achieving the correct gauge. Not sure why? Check out our post, Gauge in Knitting, to be convinced!

Suggested Needles: US #6 / 4mm & US #8 / 5mm
(or as required to meet gauge)

0-6 mo – 4 yrs: 16” circulars and DPNs in each size*
4 yrs – XS: 16” circulars, 24” circulars, and DPNs in each size*
S – XXL: 16” circulars, 32” circulars, and DPNs in each size*
3XL – 6XL: 16” circulars, 48” circulars, and DPNs in each size*

*Alternatively, you can use the magic loop technique to knit in the round using a single long circular needle.

Because there’s such a wide size range in the Flax sweater pattern, you need to look at the needle lengths and types suggested for your size. If you’re knitting an XXL for example, you’ll need a 16″ circular needle, a 32″ circular needle, and a set of DPNs (or a long circular) in each of the two needle sizes, larger and smaller.

Summary

The sizing and materials section of a pattern contains loads of information, and now that you’ve learned how to interpret it, you can take the next step and learn about abbreviations and charts. Then you’ll be ready to cast on!

~ Emily and Alexa

K2tog, ssk, yo, k1, p1, SM, DPNs, inc, dec, and kfb. Is this just gibberish to you? As you learn to knit, you’ll learn to interpret a number of abbreviated terms. Here’s an example from the free Flax sweater pattern:

Set-up round 1: [kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglan marker, kfb, k1, SM] 4 times [8 sts inc – 2 per section]

This single instruction, for example, includes five abbreviations: kfb, sts, k1, SM, and inc.

Patterns have been written this way for years to pack maximum information into minimum space on the page. While it may seem inconvenient, when it comes down to it, there are relatively few terms to learn with each new pattern – and for most knitters, interpreting abbreviations becomes natural with practice.

Knitting abbreviations

The free Barley hat pattern begins with the following instruction:

Using smaller needles, cast on 66 (72, 78, 84, 90, 96) sts, PM and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the cast-on.

To follow this instruction, you need to know that sts means stitches, and PM means place a marker. To decipher the shorthand used in a knitting pattern, review the abbreviations section below.

If there’s a term you’re unfamiliar with, but it’s not included in the abbreviations section of the pattern, check our comprehensive abbreviations list. A quick google search should also give you the answer you’re looking for.

Note: Tin Can Knits’ PDF patterns include highlighted links and question bubbles; clicking these will take you right to our helpful resources.

Knitting charts

Another shorthand used in knitting patterns are charts. Charts illustrate stitch patterns in a compact and concise way, and they also give visual clues about how the knit fabric will look when it’s completed. With practice, most knitters find charts easier to follow than lengthy text instructions, so we describe stitch patterns in chart format where practical. For more help, check out our in-depth tutorial, How to Read a Knitting Chart.

When a pattern includes a chart, the pattern abbreviations are often found alongside the chart in a key that explains the meaning of the symbols. For example, the free Antler hat pattern includes the chart and key shown below. This pattern includes both a chart and text instructions, to aid learners and those who cannot use charts.

Now that we have covered abbreviations and charts, the next step in this pattern-reading tutorial is Reading Multi-Size Knitting-Pattern Instructions, which will cover what all the odd brackets ( ) [ ] mean!

Ready to get started now?

The Simple Collection is a free, learn-to-knit series that covers all the basics of knit and purl through to turning a heel and knitting your first sweater. Check out all the free patterns and cast on now!

~ Emily and Alexa

Knitting patterns can seem like a dense thicket of numbers, numbers, numbers, and more numbers – all corralled by several types of brackets. For a beginner, this is understandably confusing, so we’ve written this tutorial to answer some of the questions you may have as a new knitter. Remember…with each project you knit, this will get easier!

Knitting-pattern text instructions

Once you’ve determined what size you’ll be knitting and gathered the materials you need, it’s time to move on to the pattern text, which explains how to knit the project, stitch by stitch.

The first thing you’ll find under the pattern heading is a bit of information about how the project is constructed. In the free Wheat scarf pattern it’s simply one line:

The Wheat scarf is worked from end to end.

In the free Flax sweater pattern, however, more information is given:

This sweater is worked in the round from the top down. You cast on at the collar, the yoke is knit, sleeve sts are placed on hold on waste yarn, the body is completed, then sleeves are knit last.

This description helps you orient yourself within the context of the overall project, so you know which part of the knit you’ll begin with, and which direction you’ll be working in.

Pattern sections

Next come the instructions you’ll follow line-by-line to work the project. In a garment pattern, the pattern text is broken down into sections, for example yoke, yoke separation, body, sleeves, etc. For a simpler pattern, all instructions may fall under the pattern heading.

Reading and understanding the text instructions that make up a knitting pattern take some practice because, often, many sizes are described in a single instruction – and there are so many different sorts of brackets!

Multiple sizes in the same instruction – brackets, brackets, and more brackets

Once you’ve identified and learned the abbreviations that apply to your pattern, you’re ready to jump into the pattern text. But first you’ll need to know a few things about how brackets, both (round) and [square], are used in knitting patterns.

Brackets that list instructions for multiple sizes: small (medium, large)

Tin Can Knits patterns use the convention of round brackets ( ) to indicate the instructions for multiple sizes. In the free Barley hat pattern, there are three child sizes and three adult sizes, listed in this order: Baby (Toddler, Child, Adult S, M, L). The first size, in this case the baby size, is always listed outside the round brackets. The other five sizes are placed inside the bracketed set and separated by commas. We bold the adult sizes. The pattern begins:

Using smaller needles, cast on 66 (72, 78, 84, 90, 96) sts, PM and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the cast-on.

This means that you will cast on 66 (or 72, or 78, or 84, or 90, or 96) stitches. You’ll need to identify the number of stitches that corresponds to your size. Don’t cast on 66, then 72, then 78; find the number for your size, and cast on that number. So, to work an Adult S, which is the first of the bolded sizes and the 4th number listed, you will cast on 84 stitches.

When you see this same set of six numbers in other parts of the pattern, you’ll again use the number that corresponds to your size. The sets of numbers may describe a number of stitches to work, a number of inches (a length), or a number of times to repeat a pattern.

Further examples from the free Barley hat pattern include:

Set-up round: k22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32), PM, knit to end

This instruction means that you will knit 22 (or 24, or 26, or 28, or 30, or 32), stitches, place a marker, then knit to the end of the round. For Adult S, you would work k28, PM, knit to end. Learn more about knitting abbreviations here.

Work rounds 1-2 until piece measures 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8.5)” from cast-on, measured at the stockinette side of the work, for a beanie.

This instruction means that you will work rounds 1-2 until the knitted piece of fabric measures 4″ (or 5″, or 6″, or 7″, or 8″, or 8.5″) from the cast-on point. For the Adult S example, you’ll work as described until the piece measures 7″ long, and then proceed to the next instruction. The instruction ‘Work rounds 1-2’ means that you’ll continue to repeat round 1, then round 2, then 1, then 2, then 1, then 2 – in pattern, until the desired length is reached.

Essentially, whatever portion of the pattern is being described, you can determine which instruction to follow from the format of the round brackets: sizeA (sizeB, sizeC, sizeD, sizeE, sizeF). Simply choose the option that applies to your size and ignore the rest.

Pro tip: highlight your size

If you’re working from a printed pattern or book, it helps to go through the pattern before you begin and highlight or underline all the instructions for the size you’re working. This will help you quickly identify the number that applies to your size as you’re working. You can also do this digitally using a PDF reader program.

Brackets that indicate you will repeat an instruction: [repeat this]

To indicate a repeated a set of instructions, Tin Can Knits patterns use square brackets [ ], round brackets ( ), or both. The set of instructions is called a repeat. Here is an example from the free Barley hat pattern:

Establish ribbing: [k1, p1] around

This means that you’ll repeat the pattern k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1…continuing in this way for the entire round. Some repeats are worked a specific number of times, and others are worked ‘around,’ ‘to end,’ ‘to next marker,’ or ‘to last 4 sts’ – as many times as needed to fit to a defined point in the row or round.

This complex example contains a repeat within a repeat, using both square and round brackets:

Increase round: k6, [k1, m1, (k2, m1) 3 times] to end

This means that you’ll first knit 6 stitches, and then repeat the pattern within the square brackets – k1, m1, k2, m1, k2, m1, k2, m1 – again and again until the end of the round. The round bracketed repeat (k2, m1) is set inside a square bracketed repeat [k1, m1, (k2, m1) 3 times] to save space and to make it easier to read. This level of complexity is not very common in our pattern writing, but it does exist!

Interpreting both uses of brackets within a single instruction

Brackets are starting to seem a little complicated about now, eh?! Well, we need both kinds because we often must describe both repeats and multiple sizes within the same line of instruction. Here’s an example from the free Barley hat pattern:

Set-up round: [k9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14), k2tog, PM] around
[6 sts dec, 60 (66, 72, 78, 84, 90) sts]
Markers now separate the work into 6 equal sections.

This means that to work the set-up round, you will repeat the instructions contained within the square brackets as many times as you can within a single round because ‘around’ means the same as ‘to end of round.’ For the Adult S example, you would k12, k2tog, PM, and then repeat that same pattern – k12, k2tog, PM – as many times as will ‘fit’ in the 84 sts you have on the needles. Because this repeat uses 14 stitches, it will repeat 6 times, i.e., 84 total sts / 14 st repeat = 6 repeats).

The conventions described in this tutorials are the ones used for Tin Can Knits patterns. However, keep in mind that while all knitting patterns require ‘repeating’ of instructions, different pattern writers use different conventions. For example, it’s relatively common to use an asterisk * instead of brackets to indicate the beginning of a repeat. For example:

Next Round: k3, *k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 6 sts, knit to end

This would be worked the same as k3, [k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo] to last 6 sts, k6.

Brackets around stitch counts

Not to be confused with repeats or multiple sizes, brackets are also used to define stitch counts within our patterns. Stitch counts are often given after an instruction that results in a change to the stitch count on the needles. For example:

[2 sts decreased]
or
[12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts]

These brackets aren’t really doing much but visually separating the stitch counts for the rest of the active pattern instructions.

Nearing the finish line!

Now that you’ve learned how to interpret the pattern size and materials section, how to read pattern abbreviations and charts, and how to read the pattern text itself with its many sizes and types of brackets, we have just a couple more tips to help you make sense of knitting-pattern finishing instructions.

We hope this in-depth review of pattern reading is helpful to beginner knitters who find the semantics of patterns difficult to follow!

~ Emily and Alexa