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  1. Annette
    September 10, 2019 @ 1:24 am

    Great jumper, the best colours! How to find yarn that looks that good in an adult scale jumper? Pure luck?

    • alexaludeman
      September 10, 2019 @ 2:02 pm

      Good question, I think luck might be the answer though!

  2. Brenda Hill
    February 5, 2019 @ 8:27 am

    I am looking for a split hem hack for the flax light. I am not having luck finding one.

    • alexaludeman
      February 6, 2019 @ 9:26 am

      Hi Brenda – to create a split hem knit the body to the desired length, then, turn you work and work back 1/2 of the sts. Work on these sts (1/2 of the body sts) until your hem is the desired length. Bind off all sts. Then work the other 1/2 of the sts in the same way.

      You have some edging options, you can work your split hem in garter, or stockinette with a garter edge, or in ribbing (1×1, 1×2 etc). You might also want to slip the first stitch of each row to give your edge a tidy look.

  3. Jess
    January 31, 2017 @ 3:23 pm

    Great sweater! Did you keep one stitch in stockinette at the sides of the body? I see a kind of “faux seam” there and I’m wondering how you did that. Thanks!

    • alexaludeman
      February 2, 2017 @ 12:56 pm

      Hi Jess – well spotted! I did do a faux seam with a single stockinette stitch at the underarm on the body. I did it as I went, but I kind of wish I had completed the body and then dropped the stitch down and picked it up in stockinette with a crochet hook. It would have been a little tighter/neater.

  4. Veronica
    January 18, 2017 @ 1:21 pm

    Such a cute and colorful sweater with a retro look. I’d wear that as an adult.

  5. Deborah Schmidt
    January 13, 2017 @ 5:14 am

    Love the hacks and Flax! I’m confused about which markers you are referring to in the back of neck shaping. Are the short rows only done on the back stitches or across part of the sleeve stitches?

    • alexaludeman
      January 16, 2017 @ 11:30 am

      Hi Deborah – the way we wrote them they are only on the back stitches. If you prefer to work the short rows into the sleeves (which is a great idea) you just want to work the same number of sts in to the sleeve on both sides.

  6. astridannlarsen
    January 12, 2017 @ 1:19 pm

    Hmmm I promised myself not to start a new project before finishing the one I’m working on but…. Looks interesting :)

  7. Maria Eugenia Roca
    January 12, 2017 @ 7:31 am

    I love Flax so much! And all your Flax hacks as well. :)

    In 2015 I knitted 3 Flax sweaters, one for each of my nephews. But now it’s time to knit one for me! :)

    I’d like to knit the neckline a little lower in the front, but I don’t know neither where exactly to do the short rows nor how to calculate them. Maybe you explained it in another Flax hack and I missed it? I’d be great if you can give me some advice on it. :)

    Thanks in advance.

    • alexaludeman
      January 12, 2017 @ 12:08 pm

      Hi Eugenia

      I don’t believe we did (but I’m adding it to my list!). To do short row shaping for the Flax it goes like this:
      Back Neck shaping comes after the set up round but before the increase round.
      Back neck shaping:
      knit to 2 stitches before second marker, w&t
      purl to 2 stitches before first marker, w&t
      knit to 2 stitches before gap, w&t
      purl to 2 stitches before gap, w&t
      repeat last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) more times.
      Knit to end of round.
      Next round: [p 10 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 17), k20 (22, 24, 26, 26, 28, 33, 33, 37, 39, 41, 44, 47, 52, 55, 60, 63)] twice

      • Cheryl
        April 18, 2018 @ 7:16 pm

        You could also just CO for 1 st of front-sleeve-back-sleeve-1 st of front, and work back & forth (rows), adding the front sts by CO’ing at each end of the std, until you have all the std needed. This method actually “lowers” the front neckline. Short rows at the back “raises” the back but doesn’t lower the front (as much as I suspect most people would want in a crew or jewel neckline).

      • alexaludeman
        April 19, 2018 @ 10:09 pm

        Hi Cheryl – Your way would work too, they have the exact same effect though. You have more rows at the back neck and fewer rows at the front

      • Cheryl
        April 18, 2018 @ 7:19 pm

        P.s. for the scheme I have described, start with the neck **after** the ribbing…add the neck edge later.

      • Tori Lewis
        December 30, 2018 @ 7:19 pm

        Hi there ! I would like to give this a try (also my first time knitting this sweater!) but am confused about the start point. Do you start after the “marker set up” or after “set up round 2” and before “round 1” in the pattern.


      • alexaludeman
        December 31, 2018 @ 9:15 pm

        Hi Tori – sorry, I’m not understanding the question, start what exactly?

      • Julie
        February 3, 2019 @ 2:37 pm

        Hi! I have this question as well. When do you do the back neck shaping? Do you do it after you have your 1.5″ of ribbing, which is just before the increase round? And does it then eliminate the increase round? Your last instruction that says “next round: ” the stitch counts for some of the sizes seem different than anything I see in the pattern. Sorry , I’m confused :-)

      • alexaludeman
        February 4, 2019 @ 10:38 am

        Hi Julie – For this one I did it at the same time as some of the raglan increases, so I figured out how many extra raglan increases I would have around the back markers and cast on that many fewer stitches in those sections only. Another options would be to do short row shaping after the raglan increases before the split. You could make your short rows longer in that case, going into the sleeves.

      • Anna
        December 28, 2021 @ 7:09 pm

        Will these short rows work for the flax light pattern as well?

      • Alexa Ludeman
        December 30, 2021 @ 12:57 pm

        Hi Anna – Yep, they will!