m1 – How to Make One Knit Stitch – m1R and m1L
Make 1 or m1 is a generic way to say ‘create one new stitch’. There are many different methods that you can choose from, and you should pick the one you prefer. Where a specific technique is listed on our patterns, it is typically for a specific reason (because it contributes to creating a special effect). You can use the suggested method in this case, OR simply substitute your own favourite method for making a new stitch.
This tutorial explains a m1 method that involves working into the bar between two stitches. It can be worked two different ways, these are described as ‘left’ and ‘right’ – m1L and m1R.
the bar between stitches is lifted and knit into when working an m1L or m1R.
m1L ::: Make 1 Left
Step 1 ::: Insert the LH needle from front to back, under the bar between the stitches (thus lifting it onto the LH needle)
Step 2 :::: Knit this bar through the back loop (this twists it into a nice little tight loop)
This is one new stitch made!
m1R ::: Make 1 Right
Step 1 ::: Insert the LH needle from back to front, under the bar between the stitches (thus lifting it onto the LH needle)
Step 2 ::: Knit this bar through the front loop (this twists it into a nice little tight loop)
Having a hard time visualizing these increases? Knittinghelp.com has excellent videos which illustrate a number of different increase methods, including m1R and m1L – find them here.
Which kind of m1 should I use?
What if the pattern just says m1, but doesn’t specify where to use m1R and where to use m1L? Well, lets take a look at the effect of working m1R and m1L in different locations.
When you are increasing AFTER a stitch marker, you create new stitches that slant out leftward from the rest of the work. I prefer to use m1L in this context.
When you are increasing BEFORE a stitch marker, you create new stitches that slant out rightward from the rest of the work. I prefer to use m1R in this context.
Take a look at how m1R and m1L look in these contexts – I find that the most seamless / flat / tight line of increase is to use m1L after a marker, and m1R before a marker. But you may like the effect of using the opposite decrease! It’s all about your preference, there isn’t really a right or wrong way to do it.
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I understand how to do the m1l/m1r. The resulting rows are all puckered. Help please. The pattern calls for knit 1 make 1. I have tried both ways. Thank you I hope you can help.
Hi Jill – I think it might just need a block? k1, m1 is a sharp increase
Thank you so much for your reply. Will do. Once again thank you.
I knitted the yoke but the one front had 41 Sr
Tsubasa and other 9 the pattern has increases before marker do second front does not increase enough
Hi Karen – I’m sorry I’m not sure I understand the question, which sweater are you knitting?
Great explanation. So Clear, thank you. Can you advise on a M1P? Thanks x
Hi Jenna – we don’t have a tutorial on that one yet, but it works the same way, lift the bar between the sts and purl into it twisting the stitch.
What does slip marker mean in practical terms?
Hi Hilary – it means to move the marker from the left needle to the right needle
what does the instruction “SM” mean?
Slip Marker
Can anyone help me. My pattern calls for k1r and k1l in the same bar. This is causing a hole in my pattern. Any thoughts or directions?
Hi Arlene – It sounds like that would definitely leave a big hole. Maybe try using a different increase? I might try knitting front/back/front into the same stitch. You are trying to make 3 sts from 1 stitch, is that right?
Hello! Thank you for the detailed explanation. Do you have any tips for making these tighter? I am left with gaping holes with m1r especially – not at all as clean and pretty as the instructions
Hi Lilly – it sounds like maybe you are knitting the sts through the back loop when you should be knitting through the front loop and vice versa. Try knitting the picked up bar the opposite from the way you were doing it, that should give you a nice even m1.
In tws mittens in row three of thumb gusset should it read m1L , knit to marker, m1R, SM, knit to end of round
The L and R are not printed
While I do prefer a paired increase, and usually use a bar increase, we think it’s knitters choice and don’t specify the type of make one, or the lean, in that scenario
This is my kind of explanation! So clear. Thank you. Onward to the fingerless mitts and matching hat!!
I’m knitting your Waves Mittens and wondering in the round which increase is best m1L or R? Thanks!
For the gusset I personally like to do a m1l and then a m1r, but it’s totally knitters choice.
I’m knitting the harvest sweater, and is wondering on row 3 after the set up row, after you knit to first marker, it’s says k2, ml do you do a m1 left or right.. Thank you
Hi Jocelyne – I do an m1R but it’s not really critical for that particular part
Hi, I would like some guidance please in relation to the front increases for the harvest cardigan.
When I knit, I do it knitting into the back leg which is closer to the point of my needle. And when I purl, I do it from the front, with the leg on front being closer to my knitting needle in both cases holding my yarn with my left hand.
I think my style of knitting is the uncrossed knit.
So, would I have to reverse between M1L & M1R for the fronts of the cardigan?
Hi Gina – I’m not sure, you would need to try them and see if you get a hole underneath the increase
So in creating a stitch for the purpose of leaning right or left only, say on a design for a knit cap, you would need to decrease were? After creating the stitch or before. I’m trying to create a Resistance pattern for my son’s knit beanie. Thank you in advance.
Hi Teresa – I’m sorry, I don’t know if I really understand the question. You are creating sts but there is a question about where to decrease? Maybe drop us an email and I’m sure we can figure it out.
THANK YOU!!!!!
Thank you so much for your clear instructions for the M1R and M1L. More importantly, thanks for demystifying when your use each increase. I am making a poncho that does not specify which increase left or right, and your photo so clearly illustrates why I might want to use each. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! You have made me such a happy knitter. :)
Hi,I am a beginner knitter, and I am having trouble understanding last part instructions for row 3,where it says knit to last stich, m1 , k1. If I knit to last stich, how do I do m1 if there is no bar to do M1 Thank you
Hi Teresa- There will be one stitch left in the row so there will be a bar to pick up….
Excellent explanation. I would always get confused about which one for which side. This certainly clears that confusion. Thanks for posting this.
pattern calls for k1,m1,*k2,ssk,k2tog,k2,m2, repeat from*to last 9 sts,then k2,ssk,k2tog,k2,M1,k1, I have tried for almost 8 months to work a gauge using 40 stiches but can’t hold each row to 40 stiches I lose 2 stitches on knit rows, rs and purl normal on ws can anyone help me.
Hi – I’m sorry, I really tell what the problem is without reading the pattern, maybe try the designer? Or if it is one of ours which pattern is it?
You are a legend for helping me to understand how to do a M1 OR M1r OR M1L. Thank you so much, as I am a beginner and it’s hard to understand the pattern language.
Happy days! Margaret
As a left handed knitter I knit in the opposite direction…will that change the order in which you would recommend I do the m1r and m1l? I have always just resorted to using kfb but would like to learn these other increases as well. Thanks for all the awesome patterns and tutorials!
Just reverse the order, use an m1R where others would use an m1L and visa versa
This is SO CLEARLY explained ( and illustrated). Thank you!