Increase Lines

It’s time to increase! This post looks at how different types of knit increases look when they are stacked up, row after row, forming what we call ‘increase lines’. If you are looking for specifics on how to work each type of increase, check out our list of increase tutorials here. Our decrease lines post is coming soon!

This tutorial covers

What is an increase and how do they work in your knitting

What is an increase? It’s a method to add one (or more) extra stitches onto your needles, to increase the stitch count. An increase line is a place where increases stack up; that is, they’re worked adjacent the same stitch column several times, with a rhythm, like every round, every second row, every 4th or 6th row… you get the idea.

In order to shape a piece of knit fabric (and make something more complex than a simple scarf) you’ll need to work either increases, or decreases, or both. By increasing the number of stitches in the row or round, the width of the fabric piece you’re working on increases.

This is the Classic Cardigan yoke, you can see the 4 raglan increase lines.

Choosing the right increase for your project (and taste)

There are many ways to put your own preferences into a pattern, and one easy one is to use a different increase method than what is described in the pattern. As long as you get to the stitch counts required, the pattern will still work… but by mixing things up you can add your own individual touch to a shawl or a raglan sweater!

On the left is the Flax sweater with **kfb** increases every second round at the raglan line. In the centre is the Classic Cardigan with paired m1 increases every other row at the raglan line. On the right is the Simple Sweater with **m1R**‘s every 4th round at the increase line.

Where do you find ‘increase lines’ in knitting projects?

Some examples of where you find increase lines in knitting patterns.

At the raglan lines of a top-down raglan sweater yoke; often increases are worked every second row or round, and they look like this:

Or at the radial lines of the Simple Sweater yoke; they’re spaced out a little farther, so the ‘lines’ are a little less obvious.

At the edges and spines of shawls; see the Oaken shawl, the Grain shawl, and the Posy Shawl below.

At the edges of mitten gussets (we like to increase every third round in this context for a well-fitting gusset)

At the sleeve shaping for a bottom-up sleeve (usually every 5th, 6th, 7th, or 8th row, so not as obvious a ‘line’ as with a shawl or raglan garment).

Let’s see how they all LOOK, in the context of a paired increase line, worked every other row.

Paired Increases

Paired increases are just what they sound like, two increases that come one after the other. The effect of these pairs changes when the order of the increases changes, like when you work an m1R then an m1L, or a krl then a kll, and when you change the number of stitches between the increases. Here are a few examples.

Make 1 (m1L and m1R)

Make 1 or m1 is a generic way to say ‘create one new stitch’. The method I’ve used here is sometimes just called an m1(L or R) or a bar increase. For specific instructions on how to make this type of increase see our m1 tutorial here.

Sometimes it doesn’t matter which type of m1 you’re working, an m1L or an m1R, but other times you’ll want to achieve a certain effect by pairing your increases in a specific way. In an increase line, some knitters prefer to work a m1L then m1R, but others prefer the opposite effect. Here’s what those look like.

In this swatch I’ve worked a **m1R**, k2, **m1L** at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row.

In this swatch I’ve worked a **m1L**, k2, **m1R** at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row.

The difference between these two swatches is subtle, but in the first green swatch the increases lean away from the central two stitches, while in the purple swatch they lean towards the central two stitches.

If you work less stitches BETWEEN the increases you get a slightly different effect

In this swatch I’ve worked a **m1R**, k1, **m1L** at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row.

In this swatch I’ve worked a **m1L**, k1, **m1R** at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row.

Knit loop increase: KRL (knit right loop) and KLL (knit left loop)

This increase is another type that creates a stitch, without using a stitch to do it. You’re creating a stitch by lifting and working into the loops below the stitch on the needle. For specific instructions on how to make this type of increase see our knit loop increase (KLL and KRL) tutorial here.

In this swatch I’ve worked a **KLL**, k2, **KRL** at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row.

In this swatch I’ve worked a **KRL**, k2, **KLL** at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row. Because of the nature of this increase it appears as though there is only one knit stitch at the centre spine.

Knit front and back (kfb)

A knit front and back, or kfb, is a type of increase that uses a stitch to create another stitch. You’ll knit into the front, then the back of the same stitch, resulting in 2 stitches. The second part of this increase, the ‘back’ part, has the appearance of a purl stitch, which gives the increases line a particular look. For more information on how to work a kfb check out our kfb tutorial here.

In this swatch I’ve worked a **kfb**, k1, **kfb** at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row. Because of the nature of this increase it looks like there are two knit stitches at the centre spine.

In this swatch I’ve worked two **kfb’s** at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row. Because of the nature of this increase it looks like there is a knit stitch at the centre spine.

Here I’ve used a pair of **kfb** increases in this garter stitch swatch. They blend into the fabric really well.

Yarn over (yo)

A yarn over (yo) is a single increase, which forms a hole in the knitted fabric. It is the main increase used in lace knitting. For more information on how to work a yarn over, check out our yarn over tutorial here.

In this swatch I’ve worked a yo, k1, yo at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row.

In this swatch I’ve yo, k2, yo at the centre spine, increasing 2 sts every second row.

Yarn overs can be a great increase choice if there is also lace at the increase line, or in the garment itself.

Make 1 stitch purlwise (m1p)

A make 1 stitch purlwise (m1p) is a single increase, which creates a purl stitch, using the bar between two stitches. For more information on how to work a m1p, m1pL, and m1pR, check out our m1p tutorial here.

For this swatch I worked a **m1pL**, p2, **m1pR** at the spine, increasing 2 stitches every second row.

Here’s what the opposite side of my **m1p** swatch looks like. It looks just like a **m1R**, k2, **m1L** at the spine.

Central double (or more than double) increases

There are some increase methods that increase more than a single stitch. These increases often start with a single stitch, but increase multiple stitches. Lets see how they look when they’re stacked up, one on top of the next, every RS row, or every second RS row. They don’t have a column of one or more untouched knit stitches between the increases.

Knit 1, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over, knit 1, (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) all in the same stitch

This increase uses a single stitch and results in 5 stitches, so you’re increasing 4 stitches. For more information on how to work this increase, see our k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 all in the same stitch tutorial here.

For this swatch I’ve worked a **(k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) into the next stitch** at the centre spine. I’ve worked this increase every 4th row, on the right side of the work.

Knit, purl, knit, (kpk) into the same stitch

This increase uses a single stitch and results in 3 stitches, so you’re increasing 2 stitches. For more information on how to work this increase, see our knit, purl, knit, kpk tutorial here.

For this swatch I worked the **kpk** at the centre spine, increasing two stitches every second row.

Knit front, back, front (kfbf)

This increase uses a single stitch and results in 3 stitches, so you’re increasing 2 stitches. For more information on how to work this increase, see our knit front, back, front (kfbf) tutorial here.

For this swatch I worked a **kfbf** at the centre spine, increasing two stitches every second row.

Double yarn over (yoyo)

A double yarn over creates two stitches, by wrapping the yarn around the right needle twice. On the wrong side of the work you’ll purl through the front, and then the back of the two yarn over loops. For more information on how to work this particular increase, check out our double yarn over (yoyo) tutorial here.

For this swatch I worked a **double yarn** (**yoyo**) over at the centre spine, increasing two stitches every second row.

What about with different stitch patterns?

All of the swatches above deal with stockinette and reverse stockinette, but sometimes you’ll be working with a stitch pattern too. Or you might have a panel between your stitches, rather than just a stitch or two of stockinette. You’ll want to choose the increase line that achieves the look you want. A little experimentation will tell you which increase type is your favourite for your project.

In this swatch I’ve got a lace panel in the middle of my increases, so I’ve worked m1’s on either side of the lace panel, an **m1R** before the panel and an **m1L** after the panel.

For this swatch I chose an increase that blends in with surrounding garter stitch, a knit front and back (**kfb**)

For this cable swatch I’ve work a **m1p** at the edges, just after the garter at the beginning of the row, and just before the garter at the end of the row, that way I’m seamlessly increasing the reverse stockinette section.

What now?!

That’s a lot of possible increases…and combinations of increases! It is, but don’t be overwhelmed. When I was starting out in knitting I used a make 1 right (m1R) any time a pattern said to m1, or increase, and you know what? It was just fine. Some might call it a ‘design feature’. With a few more techniques and a little experimentation I’m able to achieve a little more finesse and can be more deliberate in my choices now, but I promise you those knits worked just as well, and got just as much love.

These swatches are meant to give you an idea what’s possible, and maybe you’ll have picked a favourite among them! Choose whichever methods work for you, and give your knits the look you want!