Once you know how to knit and purl, you can combine these stitches in many different ways to make knitted fabrics with different sorts of characteristics.
The combination or pattern of knits and purls is called a ‘stitch pattern’. The free Simple Collection patterns feature three basic stitch patterns: Garter Stitch, Stockinette Stitch, and Ribbing. Grab some needles and yarn, and try them out yourself!
Garter Stitch
You make garter stitch by knitting every row, right sides (RS) and wrong sides (WS). When knitting in the round, you alternate, knitting one round, then purling the next.
Garter stitch is bumpy, stretchy, and lays nice and flat. It is reversible, it looks the same on both sides.
Garter stitch is soft and cushy (like the Marshmallow Mitts)!
Garter stitch makes a nice edging (like on the Malt blanket).
And because it is so simple and effective, we used garter stitch really extensively in our free Simple Collection patterns, which are perfect for learners!
Stockinette Stitch
Stockinette stitch is made by knitting one row (RS – right side) then purling the next row (WS – wrong side), then repeating these two rows, so you always knit on the RS of the work, and purl on the WS of the work.
When you’re knitting in the round, you make stockinette stitch by simply knitting every round.
Stockinette stitch is smooth on the right side (RS) or knit side, and has a uniformly bumpy texture on the wrong side (WS), this is called reverse stockinette stitch.
It’s smooth and sleek (like the body of the Antler Cardigan).
Reverse stockinette looks somewhat more rustic and textural, like the Hipster Hat.
Stockinette stitch, worked on its own, has a strong tendency to curl. At the side edges it curls toward the wrong side, and at the cast-on and bind-off edges, it has a tendency to curl toward the right side. This means a stockinette stitch scarf isn’t going to stay flat for long.
It can be interesting to use this ‘curl’ as a design feature – like I did at the sleeves of the Low Tide cardigan, and at the neckline of the Raindrops pullover. A little rolled edge can make a cute and informal detail.
Ribbing
Ribbing is a general term for a set of stitches that alternate vertical columns of knits and purls. In the Simple Collection, we use a lot of 1×1 ribbing, which alternates 1 knit and 1 purl at a time.
For Beginners ::: the most important thing to note is when you switch from a knit to a purl in a single row, you MUST move your yarn from the back of the work (where it is when knitting) to the front of the work (for purling), bringing it in between the needles (not over the needles, or you will create an extra stitch).
You make 1×1 ribbing by working the following pattern (on an even number of stitches):
Row 1 (RS): (k1, p1) repeat to end.
Row 2 (WS): (k1, p1) repeat to end.
Repeat rows 1-2, and a pattern of columns will form. Another way of knowing how to knit the stitches in ribbing is to look at them. If the stitch looks like a knit (a little V shape) then knit it. If the stitch looks like a purl (a little bump), then purl it. It is as simple as that.
Ribbing is great for edges because it pulls in, so it is nice for necklines and cuffs.
If ribbing has an even number of knits and purls (1×1, 2×2, or 3×3) then it is reversible and looks the same on the right side and the wrong side. This is great for scarves!
There are an unlimited number of ribbing patterns. Perhaps you want a chunkier looking edge – try 2×2 rib (k2, p2) repeat to end. Or if you want a sleeker looking rib try 3×1 rib (k3, p1). Each pattern has a slightly different effect. See how we used 1×1 rib on the brim of the Sitka Spruce hat, and 2×2 rib on the brim of the Tofino Surfer hat, and really big 6×3 ribbing on the edge of the Drift? There are many different effects you can achieve.
To create twisted ribbing, you knit into the back loop of the knit stitches. It has a unique ‘braided’ appearance, and is very firm and pulls in even more than regular ribbing.
December 30, 2021 @ 8:56 am
Video would be helpful, you tube was more help
Stripes Stripes Stripes! | Tin Can Knits
January 7, 2021 @ 6:15 am
[…] child-sized, colour-blocked scarf was also made on my knitting machine. I worked a 2×2 rib pattern over 82 stitches, using all kinds of sock-yarn odds and ends. I made it with my four-year-old […]
January 2, 2020 @ 4:04 pm
I like to buy a book for pattern and stitch diagram for knitting and or crochet
November 18, 2019 @ 1:45 am
Where can I find information. on flax light jumper flax light set up round 1.Doing a kbf knit one before and after raglan s for one round only increased stitch count by 4.help please.
November 19, 2019 @ 8:44 pm
Hi – You can find the Flax tutorial here.
November 2, 2018 @ 3:19 am
Hi! I am about to start the Flax sweater, my first ever sweater!!! I was reading though the instructions and wanted to clarify how to increase the yoke before starting the raglan section. Is there an increase that works best?
November 2, 2018 @ 3:58 am
You can use a kfb, or you could use a m1 increase; we’ve got a tutorial on how to do that kind here: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/m1/
November 2, 2018 @ 5:19 am
Thank you so much…i should have looked through the blog first before posting because I found it soon after lol. Thank you for your quick reply though. I can’t wait to get started!!
October 8, 2018 @ 8:02 am
I am just starting the Flaxlight for a baby gift with a self-patterning sock yarn. The pattern will show up more if I skip the garter stitch panel along the sleeve – will the pattern work if I make this change? Thanks very much for your help.
October 8, 2018 @ 1:32 pm
Hi Diana – You bet! It’s no problem to skip the garter
July 1, 2018 @ 12:48 pm
Can you help me w/ the center bar sleeves of Flax sweater without beginning again?. I’m getting too many stitches within markers. I did increases at markers (8)
July 3, 2018 @ 10:01 am
Hi Betty – your increases should come on either side of the marker, one before and one after. Does that help?
March 29, 2018 @ 5:56 pm
I am making the flax sweater and my I stitch count is not coming out correctly when increasing the yoke. I’m doing for 6-8 year olds and have gotten to the rounds increasing with the kfb. When I get my 9 rounds done I have 150 stitches and not 174! Can you tell what i’m Doing wrong?
April 2, 2018 @ 12:46 pm
Hi Becky – it sounds like maybe you are missing some of the increases. Each raglan round you should be increasing 8 sts, one on either side of the 4 markers.
December 31, 2017 @ 9:20 am
I’m knitting the flax simple pullover and the instructions are very confusing.
“ The garter stitch sleeve panel is now established. garter stitch in the round is created by knitting on one round and purling on the next”
In my memory garter stitch is knit both sides.
January 2, 2018 @ 9:22 am
Hi Ruth – it is knit on both sides if you are working back and forth. For knitting in the round it is different, because the right side of the work is always facing you so it is knit on one round and purl on the next
October 22, 2016 @ 11:58 am
i’m knitting the rye socks and there are 2 different types of ribbing in the cuff and the first part says rib until it measures 1.5″ and then the second part says rib until it measures 6.5″. does this mean until it measures 6.5″ in total or just the second part of the ribbing?
October 23, 2016 @ 12:37 am
Hi Taehee – so, I think you are using ribbing to describe too many things maybe? There is the ribbing (1×1 rib in the Rye socks), which you will do for 1.5″, then the leg of the sock (which is made up of the 1.5″ of ribbing you just worked and the leg of the sock which is garter and stockinette) will measure 6.5″ when you are done. So you are measuring from the cast on for the 6.5″
How to Purl | Tin Can Knits
November 17, 2015 @ 10:56 am
[…] Congratulations! With knit and purl, you can work all three of the stitch patterns required for all the designs in the Simple Collection: garter stitch (knitting all stitches of every row), stockinette stitch (knit right side rows, purl wrong side rows), and ribbing (alternating knits and purls in the same row). For more about these stitch patterns, see this tutorial. […]
January 16, 2015 @ 8:49 am
Very interesting section on ribbing! I just finished knitting fingerless mitts and am not super happy about how the ribbing on the cuff kind of billows out where it meets the stockinette section. I wonder if you might have any suggestions on how to prevent this problem. I used 2 x 2 ribbing in a worsted weight yarn. I wonder how to make a smoother transition between the two sections…
January 16, 2015 @ 8:48 am
Very interesting section on ribbing! I just finished knitting fingerless mitts and am not super happy about how the ribbing on the cuff kind of billows out where it meets the stockinette section. I wonder if you might have any suggestions on how to prevent this problem. I used 2 x 2 ribbing in a worsted weight yarn. I wonder how to make a smoother transition between the two sections…
January 19, 2015 @ 6:01 pm
Hi Debbie
There really isn’t a way, since ribbing ‘pinches in’ and stockinette is smooth. If you put the mittens on you might find the ribbing stretches to where the stockinette is. Alternatively you could work a decreases in the first round of stockinette, but I don’t think you want that, you want nice tight ribbing to keep your mittens on!
Let’s Knit a Sweater | Tin Can Knits
September 7, 2014 @ 9:37 pm
[…] This establishes where the sleeves, front and back are. The sleeves are worked with a garter panel down the middle, while the front and back are worked in stockinette st. [learn more about basic stitch patterns here]. […]
February 26, 2014 @ 3:13 pm
wonderful tutorials and very nice patterns! THANK YOU!!
December 13, 2013 @ 4:37 pm
The simplicity of these patterns is not only beautiful but the foundation of the art of knitting. Although I love lace, cables etc. the foundations reveal, at least to me, the skill of the knitter. Just beautiful work! Love the Barley Hats!
Stitch Patterns | Knit Me No Nonsense
July 30, 2013 @ 8:08 am
[…] a different take on this subject, check out this article from the Tin Can Knits […]
July 30, 2013 @ 12:33 am
Love the Marshmallow mittens, they are a “must have” for sure! :-)