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Let’s Knit a Sweater

October 25, 2013

Are you ready? It’s time to knit your very first sweater! Two of the challenges many knitters face when creating their first garment are gauge and fit. Review our tutorial on gauge to ensure your sweater comes out to the dimensions you want, and learn about choosing your size to ensure you get a sweater that fits the way you want it to.

Flax is adorable on little men, big men, and on the ladies too! Make a little size to learn the techniques, or jump off the deep end and get started on a sweater for yourself.

::: Get Started :::

Download a copy of the Flax pullover pattern (it’s free!) grab your yarn and needles, and let’s get down to business.  If you have been following along and knitting the other free Simple Collection designs: Wheat Scarf, Malt Blanket, Oats Cowl, Barley Hat, Maize Mitts and Rye Socks, you will already have learned most of the techniques required to make the Flax Pullover.  Believe it or not, there aren’t that many complex techniques required to make a simple sweater!

::: Yoke :::

Using smaller circular needles CO 56 (62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78, 86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96) sts place BOR marker, and join for working in the round.

Ribbing: (k1, p1) around
Repeat ribbing until piece measures 1 (1.5) inches from cast on for Child (Adult) sizes. Change to larger needles. [an illustration of this technique shown here]

See this tutorial for details on casting on in the round. BOR is your beginning of round marker. This tells you where your round starts.

Next round: knit, increasing 4 (4, 4, 4, 8, 18, 16, 12, 18, 22, 26, 24, 36, 46, 48 54, 56) sts evenly spaced
[60 (66, 72, 78, 82, 94, 94, 98, 104, 108, 112, 114, 126, 136, 144, 150, 152) sts]

This may seem like a complicated instruction but follow along and we will do a little math. What this means is that you have 56 (62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78, 86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96) sts and you need to increase 4 (4, 4, 4, 8, 18, 16, 12, 18, 22, 26, 24, 36, 46, 48 54, 56) sts for a total of 60 (66, 72, 78, 82, 94, 94, 98, 104, 108, 112, 114, 126, 136, 144, 150, 152) sts. So how are we going to do this?

Take the number of stitches you have and divide them by the number of sts you need to increase:

eg. For the 0-6 mo size: you have 56 sts and you need to increase 4 sts, 56/4 = 14

So I will knit 14 sts, then make 1 stitch 4 times and I will have 60 sts.

It gets a little more complicated when the numbers don’t work so perfectly.

eg. for the size XS: you have 86 sts, and you need to increase 12 sts, 86/12 = 7.16. So I will knit 7 sts, then make 1, 12 times, then knit to the end.

Although this may seem unnecessarily complicated (why don’t we just do the math for you?!) it’s an instruction you will come across often in sweater patterns. If we wrote out each size every time we had to do an increase round like this our patterns would be 10 pages long!

Marker setup: [p10 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 17) PM, k20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 33, 33, 34, 37, 39, 41, 42, 47, 52, 55, 58, 59), PM] twice
(these raglan markers indicate the divisions between right sleeve, front, left sleeve, and back sections)

yokesetup

This establishes where the sleeves, front and back are. The sleeves are worked with a garter panel down the middle, while the front and back are worked in stockinette st.   [learn more about basic stitch patterns here].

When you are working back and forth, garter stitch is created by knitting every row, but in the round garter stitch is created by knitting on 1 round and purling on the next. Stockinette in the round is created by knitting every round. Since you never turn your work, the right side is always facing you, and therefore the stitches are created differently.

Tip: If you are having trouble remembering where the garter panel goes (or you just want things to be a little more fool proof) you may want to place a marker on either side of the panel.

The Yoke of the sweater is created by increasing (with a kfb) at 8 points on the sweater, 2 sts increased for each sleeve and 2 sts increased on the front and the back. Once you have completed the yoke increases it’s time to measure. You will be working rounds ‘even’ (this means without increases, keeping the garter panel on the sleeves as set). If your round gauge matches that stated in the patter, you will need to work 6 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 4, 2, 0, 0) rounds even. If not you will work as many rows as necessary for your yoke to measure 5 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10.5, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12.5) inches deep. Measure from cast on.

yokeprogress

::: Separate Body and Sleeves :::

Now for the fun part: Once you separate the body and sleeves it will start to look like an actual sweater! You will be placing your sleeve sts on waste yarn, casting on sts at the underarm, and joining the front and back.

Next Round: [place 26 (29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 38, 43, 45, 47, 49, 53, 58, 62, 67, 71, 77) sts on waste yarn (the sts from BOR to first marker), using backwards loop method <link> CO 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12) sts, knit to marker] twice

sleeve sts on waste yarn

sleeve sts on waste yarn

Now you will have just the body sts on your needles with 2 sleeves on waste yarn. Starting to look like a sweater yet?

aftersleevesplit

::: Body :::

Here comes the easy peasy miles of stockinette! Just knit knit knit until your piece is 5 (5.5, 6, 7, 9, 12, 14, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15.5, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18.5, 18.5) inches from underarm (or 1 (1.5) inches short of desired length for child (adult) sizes). Change to smaller needles and rib for 1 (1.5) inches.

Binding off in pattern: for a regular bind off you are working 2 knit sts, passing the first over the second, knitting another stitch, passing the first over the second etc [tutorial here]. Binding off in pattern is almost the same, but instead of knitting each of the sts you are working them in pattern.

For this sweater it will be: k1, p1, pass st over, k1, pass st over, p1, pass st over, etc.

bodycomplete

::: Sleeves :::

Place 26 (29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 38, 43, 45, 47, 49, 53, 58, 62, 67, 71, 77) held sts on larger dpns or 16” circ needle for larger sizes. Knit across these sts then pick up and knit 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6) sts from body at underarm, PM*, pick up and knit 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6) more sts from body at underarm, then join for working in the round.

Put your needle through the live sts before removing the waste yarn.

Put your needle through the live sts before removing the waste yarn.

pickingupsleeves2

All sts are on DPNs

picking up underarms sts.

picking up underarms sts.

If you are doing one of the larger sizes, it’s easiest to start with a 16″ circular needle and switch to DPN’s when you have worked a few decrease rounds.

For the smaller sizes you will be picking up your stitches on DPN’s and the easiest way to distribute them is putting the sts from the BOR to the garter panel on N1, the garter panel on N2, and the rest of the sts on N3. The beginning of your round is the first st on N1 (the middle of the underarm).

Once you have picked up all of your sts, you will join again for working in the round. You will have a small hole at the underarm, not to worry, we will stitch that up later.

holeatunderarm

Work even (maintaining garter panel as set) for 4 (4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 8, 8, 8, 8, 7, 6, 6, 4, 3, 2) inches. If you want to adjust the sleeve length, this is a good place to do it. If you want a longer or short sleeve, here is where you should add or subtract inches.

Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1

Work 5 rounds even.

Repeat the previous 6 rounds 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15) more times. [26 (29, 30, 33, 35, 36, 38, 39, 41, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48, 51, 53, 57) sts]

Continue working sleeve as instructed, you already have all the skills required!

Tip: Making 2 the same

The important thing about knitting sleeves is making 2 the same (sounds obvious right?). So make sure to take notes on the number of rounds you work as you go.

  • how many rounds to the first decrease?
  • how many rounds after the last decrease but before the ribbing?
  • how many rounds in the ribbing?

::: Finishing :::

Finishing a sweater can be the most important part. Block your sweater and weave in your ends. There will be a small hole at the underarm, use your tail to sew that up.

You have put a lot of work into your first sweater so don’t skip blocking, it’s an important step. Blocking will make your stitches even out and lie flat and generally ‘smooth out’ your work.  It’s easy to block a sweater out of proportion if you aren’t careful. Make sure you have your measuring tape handy and that your chest measurements and length are as desired.


This tutorial is part of The Simple Collection – our 100% free learn-to-knit series.  Check out the 8 fabulous free patterns sized from baby to big, and get started making modern seamless knits for the entire family!  Like our work?  Get our email updates and we will let you know about new patterns, tutorials, and events.

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256 Comments leave one →
  1. lucinda smith permalink
    July 31, 2017 1:32 am

    Hello
    This is my first time here on this site, my question is when you do the yoke and you do the the number 86.Then you go down to the Marker Setup, where do you put markers at? Your total will be 98, so I am a little bit confused on this.

    • August 2, 2017 9:16 am

      Hi Lucinda- I’m not sure I totally understand the question. You are slipping your markers as you come to them, so they will still be in your work after the set up round….

  2. Lorraine Bissell permalink
    July 12, 2017 9:48 am

    I’m stumped. I’ve knit top down before etc etc etc. However I’m doing the 0-6mth size and I get stuck on marker placement. The neck is too small even on the 5mm to be knit on a 16″ circular so I am using dpn’s. As a result the marker placed at the end of the set up row k20 is on the tip of the needle. Grrrrr. Do you have a suggested strategy for this? Shuffle the stitches along the needles?

    • July 14, 2017 11:39 pm

      Hi Lorraine: when I use DPNS I just arrange the sts so the markers aren’t on the ends, OR I treat the ends as markers (the end of a needle means there is a marker). You may want to make sure the cast on is stretchy enough to go over a little ones head. If not, cast on 4 more sts and skip 4 decreases on the increase round.

  3. Victor permalink
    June 26, 2017 3:09 pm

    Thanks so much for sharing and posting this tutorial which de-mystifies all the “mysteries” of raglan knitting. All of the explanations have cleared up lots of questions.

  4. Laura permalink
    June 21, 2017 5:36 am

    This is such a fun sweater. I am knitting to include the rainbow stripe on the chest like I’ve seen on IG for my 1 year old nephew (size 1-2). I am working the yoke and just realized that for the first 3 sets I increased by 8 on even and odd rows…do I have to back up?

    Thanks for the free pattern!

    • June 21, 2017 12:07 pm

      Hi Laura – it kind of depends how fussy you are as a knitter. I would just keep going and start working the increases on every OTHER round (you may need additional rounds at the end of the yoke to get the depth you desire).

      • Laura permalink
        June 21, 2017 5:54 pm

        Thanks I’ll keep going and see what happens

  5. Anne permalink
    June 16, 2017 3:00 pm

    Living in Australia worsted is not a term used when talking about yarn. I am hoping worsted would be referring to what we would call both DK (double knitting ) or 8ply normally knitted using size 10 (3.25mm) on ribbed bands and size 8 (4.00mm) on the body of the garment. Hoping i am presuming correctly.
    Cheers and thanks
    Anne

    • June 16, 2017 3:27 pm

      The important thing is that you get the gauge the pattern suggests and a fabric you like! The Flax sweater is 18 sts per 4 inches and the Flax Light is 24 sts per 4 inches

  6. Anne permalink
    June 16, 2017 2:42 pm

    OMG thank you so much for this fabulously ready to follow tutorial. It makes instructions so so easy. I am now excited to try and knit this sweater in the round.

  7. Linda Stevens permalink
    June 11, 2017 7:19 am

    I am a newbie and just finished the Flax ribbed collar and am ready to do increases….I’m doing a Large so need to increase 36 stitches from 90 stitches…this comes out to be an increase every 2.5 stitches…so I would increase alternating every 2 and 3 stitches? Can I use Kfb here to increase? thanks for your patience,

    Linda

    • June 14, 2017 11:37 am

      Hi Linda

      You’ve got it, you will work 2 sts then an increase and then 3 sts then an increase. If you are working a kfb you will need to work 1 st, kfb, 2 sts, kfb because that type of increase uses a stitch to create a stitch. I usually use a bar increase (m1), which does not use a stitch to make a stitch.

  8. Leah permalink
    June 4, 2017 9:46 pm

    Hello!
    I am currently finishing the yoke on my first Flax Light pattern but I have encountered a problem. When I have completed the 21 rounds (I am doing size S-M), I keep ending up with too few stitches cast on. It states I should have 326. I have 248. I have undone my work 3 times and re-done it and this has happened to me 3 times. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!!

    • June 5, 2017 4:38 pm

      Hi Leah – it’s rounds 1-2 a total of 21 times, so it’s 42 rounds

      • Leah permalink
        June 6, 2017 10:21 pm

        Is that it?!!! Oh my goodness, thank you! How did I miss this? Really appreciate you taking the time to reply. My partner said “That was so nice of her!”

  9. Michelle permalink
    June 4, 2017 6:21 am

    If your round gauge matches that stated in the patter, you will need to work 6 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 4, 2, 0, 0) rounds even. If not you will work as many rows as necessary for your yoke to measure 5 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10.5, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12.5) inches deep. Measure from cast on.

    I don’t understand.. when do you start to work rounds even? I’ve done 17 rounds if increases now. Is this correct?

    • June 5, 2017 4:34 pm

      Hi – I think you need to refer to the paragraph before that in the pattern. There it states how many increases you should have worked and how many total stitches you should have.

  10. May 26, 2017 5:55 pm

    Hi there!

    When you say use circulars on the sleeves for larger sizes, are larger sizes medium on up?

    Thank you!

    Steph

  11. Hilda Holcomb permalink
    April 30, 2017 4:24 pm

    Love this sweater but neck but I prefer a larger neck opening. Easy change? Would I cast on more stiches and work fewer rows in the yoke?

    • May 1, 2017 7:27 am

      Yes! You can cast on using the number of stitches for a larger size, and just increase as many times as required to get to the stitch counts you need for body & sleeves for your size. If it doesn’t quite work out evenly, just add a few extra stitches at the end of the yoke in whichever section they are required. Good luck!

  12. tiphanne permalink
    April 28, 2017 4:54 pm

    Hello and thank you for this great pattern and tutorial! it really has been a great guide to my first sweater. I am currently paused on the project due to the sleeves! can you elaborate on the details? I ended up with a very large sleeve ( I prefer relatively tight sleeves! lol) and strange decrease marks. I did try to use stitch markers to determine where i was to decrease.

    Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1

    Work 5 rounds even.

    Repeat the previous 6 rounds 12, more times. 48, ) sts]

    so my understanding is with the marker at the center of the back of the sleeve, i would knit one decrease round and then 5 rounds of knit? then do that pattern of Decrease 1 row, k 5 rows for 12 times?

    I have taken out my work several times on this cause its just not turning out like i want. could you suggest an alternate decrease rate?

    thank you for your time and thoughts on this!

    Happy Knitting to you!

    • April 30, 2017 11:09 am

      Hi – I think the decrease round is what’s giving you trouble, you are decreasing at the beginning and end of the round, the BOR is located at the middle of the underarm.

  13. Leah permalink
    April 17, 2017 12:27 pm

    Hello! I’m currently knitting flax light for my first ever sweater! I bought all the recommended needles and am a bit confused about knowing when to switch from the 16″ circular to the 32″ circular and the size 2 vs size 5 etc. Any pointers would be so appreciated :)

    • April 18, 2017 9:42 am

      Hi Leah – you want to start with the shorter needles (where you have fewer sts) and switch to the longer circulars when it gets too squishy (when you have too many sts on the needles). When the pattern calls for smaller and larger needles, that refers to the US 2 vs US 5.

      • Leah permalink
        April 18, 2017 9:12 pm

        Thanks! This intuitively makes sense but I didn’t want to mess things up. Appreciate the response!

  14. lucy permalink
    April 14, 2017 10:34 am

    I love the look ion this for my first sweater and I have chosen flax light S/M.
    My (first!) question is around needles – I am confused over what to buy, do I need 16″, 32″ circulars and dpns in 2.75mm and 3,75 mm? making 6 sets of needle? Or is it possible to knit the sweater on the 32″ both neck, yoke and body? using interchangeable and magic loop?
    Thanks in advance

    • April 18, 2017 9:49 am

      Sweaters from the top down (or the bottom up) do tend to require more needles than the average project, since it is (ultimately) an item with so many different sized tubes. You can use a longer circular and the magic loop method to work the whole thing, I would go longer than a 32″ then though, I like to use a 40-47″ needle for magic loop, you would need it in both the 2.75 and the 3.75.

  15. elizabeth permalink
    April 4, 2017 4:13 pm

    Sorry if this has been asked before, what other yarns can be used to knit this? Can I use Cascade 200 Superwash or Knit Picks Brava worsted?

    • April 4, 2017 10:24 pm

      Hi – both of those are great options, you want a Worsted weight yarn, preferably in a natural fiber

  16. Michael permalink
    March 18, 2017 3:46 pm

    Ready to start sleeves. Pattern says knit across the picked up ‘live’ stitches before pick up and knit the additional cast on at underarm. Just wondering what this does for the pattern? Def overthinking from a newer knitter, but I love this craft and want to LEARN! Loving the ease of this pattern. Thanks!

    • March 18, 2017 4:48 pm

      Hi Michael – I’m not sure what you mean? Are you asking about the order of the pickup? Happy to answer any questions!

      • Michael permalink
        March 18, 2017 5:27 pm

        it seems like you are knitting a partial round on the held stitches before p/u the cast on stitches. Also why woul you not join the new yarn where you want the new BOR to start (center of underarm)?

      • March 19, 2017 3:35 pm

        Hi Michael – it doesn’t make a notable difference, the few underarm sts that are technically ‘out’ a round. I also find having the working yarn at the side of the underarm join is better for sewing up any little holes that might come up at the pick up, especially in a sweater aimed at beginners.

  17. Ann Bray permalink
    March 9, 2017 11:34 pm

    Hello, I have made the flax sweater and love the pattern as it is very easy and turns out beautiful. I want to knit this sweater for my son’s birthday. He will be 39 this year and has wanted an Apaca sweater for a very long time. I have the alpaca yarn but it calls for a size 6 needle. I am not so accomplished that I know whether I can adjust this pattern to make it work with a size 6 needle. He has a 45.5 inch chest. Can this be done? Thank you in advance.

    Ann

    • March 10, 2017 9:42 am

      Hi Ann – you will have to do a gauge swatch, then you can decide if you need to go up a size or 2.

      • Ann Bray permalink
        March 10, 2017 8:52 pm

        Hi Alexa, I did a gauge swatch in the round (first time) and I get 7 stitches per inch vertically and horizontally. How would I figure out how many sizes I would need to go up to make this work… Thank you so much.

      • March 11, 2017 9:45 am

        Hi Ann: at a gauge of 24 sts per 4 inches you will want to try the Flax Light rather than the Flax, it has a gauge of 24 sts per 4 inches.

  18. Doone permalink
    March 2, 2017 12:11 pm

    When working the Flax sweater, it says to put a marker before and after the garter panel when doing the marker setup. Now, since the markers are set up, dividing the garter panels from the front and back, why does it say later,”it might be helpful to place ADDITIONAL markers on each side of the garter panel” in order to see where the garter panel starts and stops, when they are already there? Does this mean, somehow, the garter panel is shifting away from it’s original placement, so now we have to place markers to show where the garter panels are now??

    • March 2, 2017 1:19 pm

      The stockinette sts in the sleeves outside of the garter panel will increase, but the garter panel will remain in the same spot.

  19. Doone permalink
    February 28, 2017 7:34 am

    Thank you for helping with this pattern. I am still wondering if the increases are correct. According to other patterns I have made similar to this one, you do the increases as follows:

    knit to two sts before marker, kfb, k1, slip marker, k1, kfb.

    Can this pattern be done this way? The garter panel is confusing to me. I like it and would like to use it, but I am having too much trouble with the increases. I have ripped it out 3 times. Very frustrating.

    • February 28, 2017 10:41 am

      Hi – The increases are exactly as you have said: kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb. The rounds with increases are all knit, the rounds with purl for the garter section have no increases in them

  20. Allison permalink
    February 27, 2017 6:32 am

    Hello! Recently.finished my first sweater! Love the Flax pattern, but neck opening too big (made 2-3 year old size). Should I cast on fewer stitches or use smaller needles next time? Is there any way to fix it now without flogging the whole thing? This pattern is awesome and knit up so quick!

    • February 27, 2017 3:33 pm

      I would say smaller needles, and you could also cast on fewer sts and just increase them in the increase round before the raglan starts.

  21. Katharina Bene permalink
    February 24, 2017 6:54 am

    Hello! :)
    I’m knitting the flax pullover in Child size 4. Its my first sweater!
    I increased EVERY round for 12 rounds now, and reading the comments i more and more believe i got it wrong… I’m supposed to increase every other round and just knit without increasing every other round, right?? (And if i would do the garter thing, I would garter along in round 1 and 2, wouldn’t I?)
    But I wondered that the pictures of the finished pullover seem to show an even encreasing line going through all the rounds… Does it just look even allthough every second stich in the increase line is a non-increase stitch?
    So, could you pleease make a suggestion what to do now? Should i just stopp increasing and knit until the yoke meets my measurements or should i unpick some rows…?

    • Katharina Bene permalink
      February 24, 2017 7:00 am

      Round means from beginning to end, right? From sleeve one to front to sleeve two to back until your back at sleeve one = a round – right? not from garter panel one to garter panel two or something?

      • February 24, 2017 4:07 pm

        Yep, a round is from your Beginning of Round BOR marker all the way around, back to the BOR marker

    • February 24, 2017 4:06 pm

      Hi Katharina- I’m afraid it’s a rip and a learning experience, the increases need to be every other round

  22. Doone permalink
    February 22, 2017 7:08 am

    I am making the Flax child top down raglan. I have an issue with the size of needles when casting on for the neck area. I know how to use the Magic Loop, but I don’t want to, it confuses me when making the increases. I don’t have a 16″ circular needle. I have 24″, 29″ and 40″ needles. What do you suggest? I don’t want to have to buy yet another needle!!

    • February 22, 2017 2:17 pm

      I’m afraid the only answer is magic loop or a 16″ needle. Or double pointed needles if you have them

      • Doone permalink
        February 26, 2017 6:59 am

        Thank you. I am now using a 16″ needle. My other problem is, at the start of the Setup round 1: it says to kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglan marker, kfb,k1] 4 times. Ok, if I start kfb, which is the garter section, that would mean I am increasing in the garter sleeve, therefore, it would keep putting more garter sts in the garter section. Please explain what I am understanding wrong.

      • February 27, 2017 3:34 pm

        Hi – You are working increases in the sleeve, but you are just working the garter over the same number of sts every round.

  23. Nik McFarland permalink
    February 16, 2017 10:26 am

    I’m knitting the M/L sweater. The pattern says to knit until the yoke is 9.5 inches, then collect 53 stitches from bor to marker on each sleeve. My issue is, I’m about 7 inches in, but I have 77 stitches on each sleeve. I’m quite confused.

    • February 16, 2017 7:14 pm

      It’s hard to say but it sounds like you have done too many raglan increases. Once the raglan section is complete you are knitting straight, no increases

  24. Nik McFarland permalink
    February 16, 2017 9:49 am

    When measuring the yoke, mine should be 9.5 inches, am I measuring from the front/back? Because if I measure at an angle from cast on down the row of kfb stitches it’s about an inch or so longer.

  25. andresharbor permalink
    February 9, 2017 10:26 am

    Hello
    I must really love this pattern:) as I am redoing it for the 4th time trying to figure out the raglan directions! Is there something missing in the directions? Do I increase 1 stich before marker and 1 stitch after marker? Help! I can’t figure this out! Thank you in advance!
    Eileen

    • February 9, 2017 11:07 am

      Hi Eileen – you’ve got it! You are going to knit to 1 stitch before the marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, etc.

      • andresharbor permalink
        February 9, 2017 4:51 pm

        Thank you! I think this full step is missing on the Flax directions, but then again I’ve never made raglan sleeves! I can’t wait to wear this sweater! Thank you for the pattern!

  26. Haley Valentine permalink
    January 30, 2017 6:32 am

    Hi,
    I recently finished this sweater. I notice that the neckline comes up a bit too high – just over the hollow spot in my neck. How do I fix this? If I pull it down, the neckline fits better, but every time I raise my arms it goes back up high. I did block it already, but I suppose I could try again.

    • January 30, 2017 2:28 pm

      Hi Haley – it sounds like there are too many rows in the yoke for your liking. This might mean you need to re-do the yoke. If it is a bottom up sweater you can undo your bind off and take the yoke down (it really depends on the sweater to find the best place to do that). If it is top down it would be quite an operation, you would separate the yoke from the rest of the sweater, either take out the rows you don’t want or re-knitting it, and then re-joining it to the rest of the sweater using kitchener stitch.

  27. Elizabeth C. permalink
    January 7, 2017 8:54 pm

    Hi,
    Is there an easy way to make the hole for the head not quite so big?

    • January 9, 2017 10:32 am

      Hi Elizabeth – to make the neck opening smaller you would need to cast on fewer stitches and make up the difference in the increase round after the ribbing

      • Kirsten McCorkell permalink
        March 20, 2017 4:34 am

        I’ve just finished a James C Brett sweater in their chunky and now I’m ready to venture on a thinner sweater for the warmer weather, especially one without all the sewing up afterwards! The James C Brett is a traditional raglan bottom up sweater and the neck is finished with a couple of rows of ribbing, and then a couple of rows of stockinette knitted on the larger needles to give a “roll” neck. Can I cast on with larger needles, knit some stockinette rows, and then change to smaller needles and do ribbing as though I am at the beginning of your pattern? I really like the roll neck, and it would reduce the apparent size of the opening without changing the actual measurements?

      • March 20, 2017 9:11 am

        I think a roll neck will work. It wouldn’t change the overall measurements.

  28. agraves5 permalink
    January 5, 2017 2:58 pm

    Instead of the 16 in circulars could I use 20 in circulars if I am making a size S?

  29. agraves5 permalink
    January 4, 2017 5:05 pm

    I have browsed many beginner sweaters, and this is the one I have chosen. I am excited! However because it is my first sweater (and the high probability for inevitable mistakes), I do not want to buy really expensive yarn. Do you have any other suggestions for yarn that are not as expensive?

    • January 5, 2017 10:14 am

      Cascade 220 is always a good one, I would strongly recommend a yarn that is blockable (ie. not acrylic) because acrylic yarn doesn’t really block and it won’t do your hard work justice

      • agraves5 permalink
        January 5, 2017 10:48 am

        Great! Thanks for the info! Is there a specific Cascade 220 yarn you would recommend?

      • January 5, 2017 12:02 pm

        Any one will do!

  30. Amanda permalink
    December 27, 2016 5:01 pm

    Ok I saw someone ALMOST asked my question, but they deviated from it last minute. I’m a pretty new knitter, but have made scarves, hats and blankets…

    But what I really want is sweaters!!! I was going to make sweaters for my whole family with this if I could get it going… but I have no idea where to start… what is with all the numbers? They don’t seem to match the sizes. I want a 3 yr old, a 6-8 yr old, a woman’s Med. and a Man’s Med…
    I was going to start with the 3 yr old because its smaller and faster.
    How do I read the pattern with all the numbers?
    Is there a video on anyone knitting this up? There is one on a bottom up sweater from knitpicks, but I liked how yours was more simple with a chart, and I liked the top down aspect…

    Please help. Thank you so much, I really want to get started on sweaters! I am a sweater lover and this would really make me so happy.

    Thanks again,

    • December 28, 2016 2:21 pm

      Hi Amanda – are you asking about the brackets? If you are knitting for a 3 year old you either want the 2-4 or the 4-6 size (depending on how big a 3 year old you have and how much room to grow you want, and how long you expect it to take to complete the sweater), the 2-4 is the 4th size and the 4-6 is the 5th size. So, when the pattern says to cast on 56 (62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78, 86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96) sts, you will cast on 74 or 76 stitches depending on which size you choose to knit.

      • Amanda permalink
        January 5, 2017 3:12 pm

        Thank you so much!
        I also have a few further questions and one correction:

        1) I am meeting gauge perfectly with a size up needle, 18sts and 22 rows=4″. BUT after the raglan KFB stitches and you continue there are different numbers:
        The Pattern says 2-4 yrs slot, work 6 rounds even. If gauge is different then work till yoke measures 5.5 ” deep.
        But on this Instruction page it says to work 8 rounds even if meeting gauge, or till 6″ deep if gauge is different (below drawn picture of Yoke, bottom of the paragraph).

        But here’s the kicker, I meet gauge (I’ve double checked my swatch and my sweater, I meet it perfectly with size up needles), but mine only = 4.5″ after 8 rows even. Are you measuring the depth from the sleeve or the front/back? Does it matter? And what directions should I follow? The 5.5″ or the 6? I’m assuming this is unblocked… Should I just go with it as I meet gauge otherwise?

        Further info that might be helpful- I do meet the stitch numbers as well. 150 or 31sleeves and 44 f/b.

        My other questions are:
        2) Does the raglan line disappear the 6-8+ stitches that are knitted even on the yolk?

        3) Setting up the raglan rounds the Pattern is clearer than this page, as it clearly states to kfb, k2, marker, kfb,k1… I’m past this point, but I’m still confused. I think I worked out ok as my stitch number is correct, but is this really in rounds or sections? Like the Front/back portion you kfb the 3rd and 3rd from the end, and knit 2, closest to the marker (boy thats hard to describe- I’ll try again, For the front and back section: k2, kfb, knit rest of section, but 3rd st from next marker kfb, k2 place marker for sleeve, and kfb after…) and for the sleves you kfb the first and last stitch. Ok I’m just trying to make sure I am clear… that was hard to explain for me. I don’t understand how that could be rounds… rows? A round is a row in circle knitting right?

        4) Also- just want your advice, after the collar, how would you increase? As it’s a k1 p1 rib, I found that sometimes when I did “make one” I got a hole, so I just did kfb to increase, but what would you suggest to increase after the collar?

        I am so sorry this is horrendously long! Please be patient with me : )
        Thank you so much for answering the questions people have written.
        Happy Knitting.

      • January 5, 2017 11:50 pm

        Hi – okay, so you want to follow the pattern, but I have made the pattern and tutorial consistent now in yoke depth (they were coming out a smidge long so we did adjust the pattern). I measure the depth straight down the front.

        2. Yep, you are no longer working raglan increases so there won’t be a raglan line.

        3. I’m afraid I don’t understand the question. You are working a kfb increase in the first stitch after a marker and the second to last stitch before a marker. You are always slipping you markers as you come to them.

        4. I usually use an m1 increase. If you are getting a hole you might be working them the wrong way (ie. knitting through the back loop when you should be knitting them through the front and vice versa.

  31. December 21, 2016 9:36 am

    Help! Ok I just finished the marker setup and have all my PM in. I understand Setup round 1 and 2 establish the garter stitch sleeve. But I’m confused on round 1 and 2. Where it says {kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglain marker, kfb, k1] 4 times, am I doing this even across the sleeves?

    And then work as set I assume means to stockinette stitch the front and back and then purl or knit the sleeves…

    • December 22, 2016 9:40 am

      Hi – So, for round 1 you are working 8 increases (kfb’s), one before and one after each marker. You are increasing 2 stitches in each section, 2 on the front, 2 on the back, and 2 on each sleeve.

      For round 2, you are going to knit everything except the garter panels on the sleeves, those sts will be purled

      Does that help?

  32. Devon permalink
    December 16, 2016 9:07 am

    How do you sew up the holes in the underarms with the tails? Is there a particular way?

    • December 16, 2016 11:10 am

      Hi Devon – I use my tail and just put in 1 or 2 whip stitches (on the wrong side of the work) to close it up.

  33. David permalink
    November 21, 2016 6:46 pm

    I am confused by the difference between numbers in the pattern and the tutorial – I am knitting a 6-12 mos and the pattern says to cas on 88 stitches while the tutorial says 62…which one is it?

    • November 21, 2016 10:54 pm

      Hi David – are you possibly knitting the Flax Light? The numbers will be different but the concepts will be the same.

  34. Rachel permalink
    November 12, 2016 1:23 pm

    I’ve never actually ventured past hats and scarves but I really want to try this. Two questions: is the garter panel really necessary, or would I be able to work solely in stockinette stitch for the yoke and the sleeves, purely for aesthetic reasons. Second, what does PM mean? I’m sure I’ll have other questions once I really get into it!

    • November 12, 2016 10:24 pm

      You can go ahead and skip the garter panel if you like! PM means place marker

  35. Laura Skinner permalink
    November 9, 2016 7:07 pm

    Hello and thank you for this beautiful pattern! I have one quick question. First the pattern has us do the setup round 1 and setup round 2 and then the instructions for the round 1 and round 2 that will be repeated. Then the pattern says work rounds 1-2 a total of 8 times do we include the setup rounds as one of the 8 or start counting with the “regular” round 1 and round 2. Thanks so much!

  36. Leah permalink
    November 3, 2016 8:57 am

    HI
    Do I make increases on round 2 as well?

    • November 3, 2016 2:23 pm

      Hi Leah – for the yoke you are only working increases every other round.

  37. Noreen permalink
    October 16, 2016 6:25 pm

    I’m right at the point where I’m about to work the rounds even before I separate the body and the sleeves. I’m supposed to have 190 stitches, 38 at each sleeve and 57 at the front and back. My sleeve sections have the proper number of stitches, but one of the other sections only has 56. Should I increase one more stitch when I work the even section, or is it okay because the sleeve sections are the same?

    • October 19, 2016 9:35 am

      Hi Noreen – One stitch is non critical. You can add it in or leave it alone, knitters choice!

  38. Janet Kean permalink
    October 12, 2016 9:34 am

    What a wonderful website! Great to have so many people returning to knitting and even better for the beginners, as you very clearly direct and encourage them.
    Thank you
    J.K.

  39. October 10, 2016 7:35 pm

    Attempting to swatch–I’m having trouble switching in the round. 18 stitches just aren’t enough to join on the 16″. Do I swatch on dpns, or knit flat?

    • October 11, 2016 9:47 am

      Hi Katie – good point, swatching in the round is ideal. Personally I just knit a wee Barley hat so I would have a usable swatch but DPNs are just fine. I would cast on at least 24 for a swatch though.

  40. Karen permalink
    October 2, 2016 5:10 am

    Hello! I am going to be knitting this jumper as a XXL or 3XL (I still have to measure my hubby). I want to double check that I start to cast on, on the shorter needles. I will however need to switch to longer needles, as this jumper will be big. This is the first time I have knitted a sweater, so I am not sure how or when I need to switch to longer circular needles. Can you please advise? Many thanks.

    • October 4, 2016 6:35 pm

      Hi Karen – you are switching to the longer needles when the shorter ones become too squishy (too many stitches on them)

  41. Elizabeth permalink
    August 24, 2016 8:38 pm

    Hey there! This is a really wonderful tutorial, especially for someone who is just now working on their very first sweater! I just have a question about the beginning. It says to use the smaller needles (the 16″ ones), but should I be using the size 6 needles or the size 8 ones? It doesn’t say which one you should use and I’m a little confused on which one I should, since I’m not experienced at all with sweaters. :/
    Thank you so much for any help!

    • August 30, 2016 9:52 am

      Hi Elizabeth – ‘smaller needles’ means the size 6. You will use the shorter needles when there are fewer stitches and switch to the larger ones when it becomes too ‘squishy’ on the needles

  42. August 24, 2016 1:34 pm

    queria muito fazer, mais não entendo nada em inglês ;(

  43. cindy permalink
    August 20, 2016 4:54 pm

    i have a question for starting the sweater in patteren it says cast on with smaller circulars but it seems that the 16 inch circular is too big for just 56 sts….so do i use dpns…instead thanks….

    • August 24, 2016 9:49 am

      Hi Cindy – I would try a bit of a looser cast on, it should fit around the 16 inch (just barely) to start

  44. Rina permalink
    August 15, 2016 10:35 am

    Hi! I just finished the Harvest cardigan and was really happy how it turned out. I want to start Flax but it’s Sport/5ply, so I’m not sure if I should follow the regular Flax pattern or Flax light. I want to make it a little more boxy than fitted also. Do you have a recommendation for gauge / size to follow if I want to make an adult SM? Thanks!

    • August 24, 2016 9:52 am

      Hi Rina – we have both a worsted and a fingering weight version for the Flax sweater, I think with a Sport you would want to follow the fingering weight version per pattern. It may turn out a titch bigger because sport is a little heavier than fingering but if you are looking for a looser fit that is fine anyways.

  45. August 13, 2016 9:19 pm

    First: thank you, thank you, thank you for this pattern! I don’t think I would have braved my first sweater without it :)
    I wanted to knit this as a lighter summer garment, so I went with Flax Light but have a question: I’ve swatched and got the correct gauge with US #3 needles – does this mean I need to knit the collar/rib parts using US #0 or should I stick with US #2? Thanks in advance!

    • August 24, 2016 9:53 am

      Hi – so glad you like it! You want something 2-3 sizes smaller for the ribbing so go with a 0

      • August 24, 2016 1:59 pm

        Sweet! I realized that 2 was the smallest set of DPNs I had and decided to order 1 and 0 circular needles to try out just in case. Thank you so much for getting back to me :)

  46. Marta permalink
    July 27, 2016 11:10 am

    Hello, I like your flax sweater and I would like to knit it size S but I can’t understand the number of stitches to cast on size S. PLEASE HELP ME!!!

    • July 27, 2016 12:13 pm

      Hi Marta – all the details are in the pattern, you just need to download it

      • Marta permalink
        July 29, 2016 2:57 pm

        THANK YOU!! Unfortunately, I have another problem now: set the collar and… I can’t figure out how many and when increase sts appear. Size S collar 86 sts, increase 18(I knit 4 sts and after that 1 new sts and I repeat 18 times, of course not one increase by another), when do I start to increase??The first setup round together with increase for raglan? Or I have to add only raglan in the 1st setup?Sorry but I just can’t understand it….

      • August 2, 2016 1:14 pm

        Hi Marta – I think yo may be overthinking it a bit. There is an increase round, where you are working your 18 increases, then you start the raglan increases.

  47. Emily Peterson permalink
    July 3, 2016 6:13 pm

    Love this sweater! I’ve worked through to picking up the sleeve stitches (after the body is finished). Now I’ve tried DPNs (and I’ve been practicing to get better at using them) but I’m more proficient with Magic Loop. I put my held stitches on the circular needle but I’m finding that I have to purl for the stockinette section- what’s going on here??? It’s probably very simple but it’s a like mind puzzle for me right now!

    • July 3, 2016 8:44 pm

      Hmm, sounds like you have it going inside out? If you email me a pic I might be able to figure it out!

      • Emily Peterson permalink
        July 6, 2016 10:07 am

        Yes I realized after I posted that I was doing exactly that! I’ve rectified that issue. Do you have any tips for making the join of sleeve to body look more “seamless”? My join is very obvious. Is this minimized when you use DPNs versus Magic Loop?

      • July 6, 2016 10:47 pm

        Do you mean your sleeve pick up? You are picking up your stitches that were formerly on waste yarn, so all but the underarm should be seamless completely. For the underarm you can always pick up a couple of extra stitches and decrease them on the next round to close the gap.

  48. Vanessa permalink
    June 21, 2016 11:37 am

    This is my first sweater and I’m learning so much. The tutorials are very helpful. I’m nearly finished the body and was wondering if I have to go back to the 4 mm needles for the ribbing. I think I’d prefer it hang a bit more loosely, rather than be too tight around my hips. Will sticking with the 5 mm create a roomier ribbing?

    • June 21, 2016 12:05 pm

      Hi Vanessa – so glad you like the Flax! The trouble with ribbing is that if you use the same needles the ribbing tends to look ‘sloppy’ (at least it does when I do it!), so, since this is knitting, you can absolutely give it a go and see if you like it, but I think you may want to go back to the 4mm and work a nice loose bind off.

      Alternatively if you don’t like the ‘pinch’ of ribbing, you may want to try working garter stitch at the hem and cuffs instead, (knit 1 round, purl 1 round)

  49. Barbara Glaser permalink
    June 20, 2016 8:12 am

    Hi, I’m knitting the flax light sweater, in medium. I finished the yoke and switched to larger needles, in my case, 32 inch # 5’s. The stitches are stretching along the needle, and I’m wondering if I should be using 24 inch needles, or if as I continue increasing the needles won’t seem too long. Thank you!

    • June 21, 2016 12:09 pm

      Hi Barbara – do you mean that you have finished the collar or the yoke? If you mean the collar you can decide if you want to switch to a shorter needle, but with the increases it shouldn’t take TOO long before 32 is the right size. If you mean the yoke, and you have separated the sleeves, you will want to switch to a 24″ because there are no more increases on the body.

  50. Jennifer permalink
    May 18, 2016 10:08 am

    I just started knitting in February and my dream is to someday knit myself a sweater. I just found your Simple Collection and I love it. I think I might actually be able to do this! Hope to start very soon. Thank you for the detailed, beginners’ level instructions and patterns.

  51. Xus permalink
    May 4, 2016 1:49 pm

    Love your pattern but I can’t understand what happy se to the raglan section once you stop increasing. When knitting even, raglan disappears!

  52. Xus permalink
    May 4, 2016 1:35 pm

    Hi, I can’t understand how it’s possible to keep the raglan pattern once you stop increasing. When working even, all stitches look the same, raglan disappears! Thanks xoxo

    • May 6, 2016 9:17 am

      The raglan does stop when you work even, I suppose you could increase and then decrease but it will look different still. The ‘knit even’ rounds tend to end up in the underarm (unseen) anyways.

      • Xus permalink
        June 23, 2016 10:09 am

        Thanks! I must have done something wrong as it didn’t go as far as the underarm

  53. C A Cooley (Mrs ) (BA etc) (OAP) permalink
    May 3, 2016 1:48 am

    I have read through the above and feel I will stick to traditional ways of knitting.
    Maybe I am set in my ways, but there are many other wonderful patterns on your website
    to choose from I have studied, with beautiful results, I hasten to add. With best wishes for all those who wish to encourage knitting and traditional crafts.
    Creative Carol (OAP)
    UK

  54. Tara Bambauer permalink
    April 28, 2016 11:05 am

    This is my first sweater but I am stuggling with what needles to use where, I understood the required needles were a circular 16inch in US #4 and a 32 inch circular needle in US#4 and a set of dbl pointed needles in #4. Also a US #8 , 16 inch circular needle, a a US #8 32 inch circular needle and a set of dbl pointed needles in #8 US too. Did I miss understand this or am I missing when to change over? I fninshed the yoke but it is 3 inch shorter but I have been using a #4US 16 and the 32 inch circular needles for it…..bu4 my gauge was the #8 …what did I miss ? Thanks!

    • April 29, 2016 9:36 am

      Hi Tara – you are starting the ribbing with the smaller needle (a US 6 / 4mm in the pattern), then after the ribbing it says to switch to larger needles, that would be your 16″ US 8. Then, when your stitches get too squishy you can change to the 32″ US 8. The 32″ US 6 is for the ribbing at the hem.

      • Tara Bambauer permalink
        April 29, 2016 3:17 pm

        Oh! Dhuh! Should have seen that sooner! Thanks! :)

  55. Cornelius McCallum permalink
    April 27, 2016 4:10 pm

    Just a quick note to say thank you for the pattern. Yes it is my first jumper and I am onto the body, so as you say miles of knit knit knit 0:) . No real problems apart from gauge but you did tell me to knit a swatch……. Nonetheless I am enjoying it, not been knitting for long, granny squares, scarf, hats and then onto Kate Davies Rams and Yowes followed by, just finished, tir chonail blanket and thought enough with the blankets, sweater time and yours is just the ticket. I have used Jamiesons of Shetland Autumn tweed, which though an aran may be a little thinner than others hence my troubles with sizing. Much love to you and yours, Cornelius.

  56. March 30, 2016 4:40 pm

    Hi – thanks in advance for your help.
    My first question – after completing Setup round I counted my increases within the garter stitch section. I am working on the smallest size sweater so there are twelve stitches. The instructions say that I should only have ten stitches. I don’t think this is possible because we increased 2 stitches per section. Is this a typo or have I misunderstood?

    Second question – I started Setup round 2 by doing a k1, p10, k1 for the garter stitch section. The instructions do not tell me to knit straight in the next section and then repeat this in the garter section. Or is that what it means when you say “twice”.
    I know this is simple. Thanks for helping me understand.

    • April 4, 2016 2:27 pm

      Hi Barbara – While you have increased on the sleeves, you don’t want to increase the garter section. You will be knitting 1 stitch, purling 10, and knitting 1 on the next round.
      That is exactly what ‘twice’ means

  57. jane permalink
    March 11, 2016 7:48 am

    I forgot to put a BOR marker for my sleeve and now I cant quite figure out where to put the maker to start my decrease round. im doing the 4-6 yo size

    • March 14, 2016 10:47 pm

      Hi Jane- not to worry, the BOR marker comes at the middle of the underarm.

  58. Chris permalink
    March 5, 2016 4:26 pm

    love this pattern! very clear and actually makes sense. excited to give it a go, however, 1 question about the raglan increases. I will be knitting for the Adult Small, so it says “Round 1:[kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglan marker, kfb, k1] 4 times. Round 2: work as set; [knit to garter panel, purl garter panel] twice, knit to end of round. Work rounds 1-2 a total of (15) times. ” My only question about this, does that mean I am not increasing every round at the markers? Every other round increasing, but every even round keeping panel?
    Any explanation would be appreciated! (Also, if done by increasing every round (not every other), would it be acceptable to knit even every round (keeping panel) after the 15 increase rounds to achieve the correct measurement from CO?
    THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!

    • March 9, 2016 2:53 pm

      Hi Chris – Yes, you are increasing every other round at the markers.

      • Chris permalink
        March 13, 2016 5:18 pm

        thank you!
        & correction: meant to say Adult MEDIUM with those numbers.

  59. March 4, 2016 9:35 pm

    Thank you for this free pattern! I just knitted this, my first sweater, for my one year old nephew and the pattern was so clear and easy to follow. (He’s going to get a gramps cardi next) I am going to knit a flax sweater for myself too and want to do the sleeves entirely in reverse stockinette. If I were to do this would I change the kfb increases in the sleeve panels of the yoke pfb’s instead? Or does it not matter?

    • March 9, 2016 2:56 pm

      I might work a make-1-purlwise if you were keeping it in reverse stockinette, rather than garter.

  60. jane permalink
    February 21, 2016 10:09 am

    I am knitting the 4-6 yo size. I am on the “round 1″ after the set up. There is only one stitch between my garter panel marker and my raglan marker. So, when the directions say to ” Kfb, knit to 2 stitches before raglan marker, kfb, k1″ I only have one stitch to increase on after my garter panel maker and my raglan marker…. or else I will be in my garter panel and i don’t think I am supposed to be increasing the garter panel more than the directed 14 garter stitches right? What do I do?

    • February 22, 2016 2:39 pm

      Hi Jane- the first increase comes within the garter panel

      • Tracey Craig permalink
        October 4, 2016 4:56 am

        Thanks for the great pattern, I am a little confused by the increase part – sorry. Can you help? I thought the increase was after the garter panel at the beginning of stocking stitch ( the front and back panel). In the round I only seem to increase four stitches rather than the 8. Can you explain how you increase in the garter if we are to keep this panel at 20 stitches. I am knitting the gents size L. I am a very new knitter. Does this mean that the first two stitches on the garter are kfb, knit? So do you purl only 20 on the next round of the garter stitch.

      • October 4, 2016 6:32 pm

        Hi Tracey – you are increasing on either side of the marker, so, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1 at each marker. Does that help?

  61. lmnop permalink
    February 16, 2016 5:32 pm

    Hi there,

    I am about to cast on this sweater, my first one ever 😊
    I am excited, however I’m also a little confused about picking the right size. My chest measurement is smaller than my hip measurement and your instructions call for the chest measurement when the graphic seems to instruct to measure toward your hips at the bottom of the sweater. This is a difference in size for me. ….

    Could you please clarify?
    Thank you so much

  62. Kerrie permalink
    February 16, 2016 3:05 pm

    I am in love with this pattern and get tons and tons of compliments from all the moms-to-be who receive it – thanks for making me a star!
    In all seriousness – I would like to try something new with it and need advice – I would like to do the body, collar and cuffs one color and the sleeves another. is there a way to achieve this?
    Or is this craziness and maybe I should just look at stripes?

    • February 22, 2016 2:46 pm

      You can easily do the sleeves in a different colour starting from the sleeve split, but otherwise you would need to work it back and forth and seam it up at the end.

  63. Miss Cale permalink
    February 11, 2016 9:25 am

    I’m incredibly confused here. When you start the increasing of the yoke, it say increase rows 1-2 20 (for large) times. Is that 20 per each 1 and 2 row? I’m supposed to have 294 stitches and I’m short 80. I’ve been counting my stitches along the way to make sure my increases are correct. Where did I go wrong?

    • February 11, 2016 7:31 pm

      Hi Miss Cale – for the Flax sweater you are working row 1 and 2 20 times for your size, that means round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2. The math works out, you will have the right number of stitches! Remember that you are working 8 increases every other round.

  64. Jenny permalink
    February 3, 2016 7:41 am

    I read through the comments and didn’t see my answer- apologies if it was buried in there and I’m asking a question that was already answered.

    Once I’m through the increases and I need to knit even to get the yoke depth- do I measure down the front (or back) from the neck/cast on or do I measure (diagonally) down the raglan line from the neckk/cast on?

  65. Terry permalink
    January 21, 2016 6:37 pm

    I don’t have enough stitches I have 191 I should have 240 I am doing the smAll I don’t what I did wrong

    • January 25, 2016 1:01 pm

      Hi Terry – i would love to help but I’ll need a little more information. Are you increasing 8 sts on the increase rounds (either side of the marker)…maybe email us with a picture?

      • Terry permalink
        January 30, 2016 7:50 pm

        I found my mistake and took out and started over I didn’t knit 14 rows I do d 7 f I forgot they the 2 rows counted as 1 thanks for getting back to me

  66. January 20, 2016 11:56 pm

    Hello! I found your Flax pattern on Ravelry and thought why not! It looked ‘simple’ enough for a beginner like me…well, I frogged twice already before finishing the yoke part…(luckily, it is only little kids size…knits up quickly! 4-6yrs) I am enjoying the challenge! (I have only knitted blankets, scarves and hats so far…)
    Since English isn’t my first language, it really helps to see the tutorial with pictures. Thank you for providing that as well. (and its free!)
    However, I got stuck…toward the end of the Yoke section. I did finish the round 1 – 2 repeats 9 times but after that, it says to ‘work even'(no increases, keeping garter panel as set). Does this mean I will just do the ’round 2′, 10 more times?? Or am I understanding this whole part wrong??
    If you could please clarify that part, I would be very appreciative…thank you!

    • January 25, 2016 12:58 pm

      So, it won’t work to just knit round 2 because that won’t keep the garter panel in place. You need to keep the garter panel in place (knitting 1 round, purling 1 round) and knit all other sts for 10 rounds.

  67. Rachel B permalink
    January 18, 2016 7:10 pm

    You suggest, and I like the idea of placing markers on either side of the garter panel, but I’m confused, because I am to keep knit/purl the same 14sts (for so 6-8), but I continue to increase? Currently I have 16 sts between my markers, but does that mean that I’ve increased properly once, but need to relocate my markers? Also, why is it KFB as 1st st, but kfb is at 2st before marker? Can I k1, kfb, k to two before, kfb, k1 for raglan increase?

    • January 18, 2016 9:43 pm

      Hi Rachel – the panel remains the same. The first increase occurs within the panel on the knit round, but the same 14 sts are purled on the next round. Always the same number of panel sts. If you are placing markers around your panel you want to make sure you are not increasing at them (only at the raglan markers). The reason for the difference in the KFB is how the KFB look, it has the appearance of 1 knit and 1 purl stitch, to make it look properly even the increases are at different moments. If you work a few rounds of the pattern I think you will be able to see it.

  68. Anne permalink
    January 13, 2016 10:51 am

    Hi, I’m at the beginning of Setup round 1. If I kfb into the next stitch, which is the first stitch of the pearl panel, won’t this throw off the panel? Or, to put it another way, are the first increases supposed to be within the panel? Thanks, Anne

    • January 13, 2016 12:35 pm

      Hi Anne – yep, the first increase is within the panel

      • Anne permalink
        January 13, 2016 4:16 pm

        Thanks so much. I figured it out ;-)

  69. Ire permalink
    January 11, 2016 1:39 pm

    Will the XS size fit a twelve year old girl?

  70. Tracey Turko permalink
    January 3, 2016 4:02 pm

    My question is regarding my swatch…….because I will be working with circular needles, should my swatch be done on circulars as well?

    • January 4, 2016 7:50 pm

      Hi Tracey – IDEALLY your swatch should be knit and blocked just like you would block your sweater.

  71. ovie permalink
    December 18, 2015 9:39 pm

    hello
    do you have a video for this project? I am still learning knitting,and my english is bad ^^

  72. Sara permalink
    December 12, 2015 6:25 pm

    Please disregard my previous questions about marker set-up – I figured that out.

    But now I am confused about the instructions for the yoke – they look like they are intended for an experienced knitter (even though it says “beginner”) because it seems to be assumed that one knows how to alternate increases and even rows and many other things.
    So, here are my questions:

    It says :
    The Yoke of the sweater is created by increasing (with a kfb) at 8 points on the sweater, 2 sts increased for each sleeve and 2 sts increased on the front and the back. ” After this your instructions say to knit “even” without any increases. Totally confusing.
    1) first off, what are the 8 pts?
    2) kfg adds 2 sts right away. Does it mean that I am supposed to do one kfb per sleeve, per front and per back? If so, on the right or on the left? increases tend to slant to the left or right depending on the type of the increase, don’t they? So, if I keep adding kfb on the left, won’t it be slanted to the left?
    3) Also, based on the instructions it sounds like we have to add 2 sts and then just knit “even” until we get the right size of the yoke. That is, it sounds like I am supposed to do only one round with increases and then just knit “even.” BUt this cannot be right, because in your photo i is obvious that there are consistent increases along the raglan lines.
    So, how does it work? How many rounds of increases? Is increase supposed to be every round? every other round?
    Thank you

    • December 14, 2015 12:04 am

      Hi Sara – The pattern is a beginner sweater, not great as a first pattern over all. It is the 7th pattern in our 8 pattern learn to knit series.
      I think your questions are coming from only reading the tutorial, have you downloaded the full pattern? It gives line by line instructions including how many times to work the increases, how many ‘even’ rounds etc.
      1. The 8 points are on either side of the 4 markers.
      2. kfb only adds 1 stitch (you are knitting into the front and back of 1 stitch, creating 2 sts from 1 st, a net increase of 1 stitch)
      3. Again, I think you need to read through the whole pattern. The number of rounds are in there.

  73. Tavia Riley permalink
    December 9, 2015 2:37 pm

    Hi there! I am stuck after the marker setup. I just finished placing the last marker, but the next step (Setup round 1) says to “kfb, knit to 2 sts BEFORE raglan marker…” does that mean I have to undo stitches from the last step in order to do these stitches before the marker?

    • December 9, 2015 10:34 pm

      Hi Tavia- I’m not sure I understand, you have 4 raglan markers, you are increasing on either side of those markers (on the increase rounds), does that help?

      • Tavia Riley permalink
        December 16, 2015 3:34 pm

        Hi there! Sorry, I was reading the instructions wrong, but I figured it out! Thank you! =D

  74. Katie permalink
    October 8, 2015 2:02 pm

    About how long should by circs be? I’m probably going to go for the adult medium size.

    • October 8, 2015 5:00 pm

      You will need a smaller circ for the collar (I use 16″) and a longer one for the body, 24 or 32 inches

  75. Lucy permalink
    October 7, 2015 5:18 am

    Hi, I am totally confused about how I increase after doing my ribbing.
    I have 96 stitches and have to increase by 54.
    So I do 96/54= 1.7 then I am lost. How do I increase?

    • October 7, 2015 8:47 pm

      Hi Lucy – you can increase every 2 sts and throw in an increase every other stitch some of the time until you have increased 54 sts. It works out to an increase of 9 sts for every 16.

      • Lucy permalink
        October 8, 2015 8:24 am

        Thank you, it all makes sense again now!

  76. Dana permalink
    September 24, 2015 11:20 am

    Hi -Please disregard my previous post. I think I figured some of it out but still do have a question. I had 144 stitches and added 8 in the marker set up. Then I need to add 196 more to get to 344. Round 1 X 12 will add 96. When the instruction says work round 1-2 a total of 24 times, does that mean 24 times each or combined? If combined, should I also have been adding stitches in Round 2 (was that implied by “work as a set?”) and that is where the other 96 stitches come from? Sorry — I have really tried to figure this out and I think I’m in the ballpark of what went wrong, but not able to nail it down.

    • September 29, 2015 6:22 am

      Hi Dana. After adding the 8 stitches, you will have 152 sts. Then you will work rounds 1-2 a total of 24 times (this is a total of 28 rounds). Every time you work round 1 (24 times) it adds 8 sts to the count. 24 x 8 = 192 sts added. 152 + 192 = 344 sts total. Does this clear things up for you? Read round 1 through carefully, you will see that 2 sts are added in each section (front, back, sleeve, sleeve), for a total of 8 sts added each round 1.

  77. Dana permalink
    September 24, 2015 9:37 am

    Hi — Please help! I am a new knitter and thought I was having success with this pattern, knitting the XXL. I counted my stitches at the 144 mark and I had the correct amount. Now, after the 24 rounds of increasing two per section (for 12 of those rounds), I only have 239 stitches instead of 344 as the pattern says. When I do the math for the increases from 144 it looks like 32 in the setup round, and then 96 in round 1, which brings me to 272. Should I be increasing in Round 2 as well? When I add those number the stitch total comes to 368, which still doesn’t match 344. Can you tell me what I’m missing here? Thanks so much!

  78. Kquvien permalink
    July 17, 2015 2:18 pm

    Hi! I am knitting the flax sweater now. First sweater! I have only been knitting 8 months.
    I am totally confused about the sleeve separation and all of the steps that deal with putting waste yarn in the sleeve stitches to casting on before knitting the body. Any help would be lovely.
    Thanks!!!

  79. Anidy permalink
    July 14, 2015 12:02 pm

    Bonjour ce petit pull est t il disponible en français ? Merci

  80. June 28, 2015 5:21 pm

    Hello
    I just finished my first flax. Now my husband is impressed and wants one too. Mine actually fits him quite well as far as the width of the armholes and body. However it seems tight around the chest under the arms, and almost as if the yoke should be longer. Is there a way to start the collar smaller and do a more gradual raglan line so that there would be more space from neck to under arm? I don’t want to size up because the chest and waist are perfect.

    • June 30, 2015 4:23 am

      For your husband, just knit another inch or so without increasing, so the yoke depth is longer, before you place the sleeve stitches on hold and knit down on the body. You could also start with fewer stitches at the collar (with the stitch count for a smaller size), if he’s looking for a narrower collar. Then you’d still increase to the total desired stitch count for the size you knit. After you separate arms and body, you can have him try it on and see if the yoke fits well. Hope this helps!

  81. June 3, 2015 8:47 pm

    Having trouble with the underarms. Not sure how to do this.

  82. Lizzy permalink
    May 18, 2015 7:03 am

    Hi there, thank you so much for these free tutorials – they are so helpful.
    I have a question about yarn substitution for the Flax sweater. I want to knit one for my husband but he is allergic to wool. Seeing as our second wedding anniversary is coming up, which traditionally has ‘cotton’ as the theme, I wondered if it might be possible to knit this sweater with a cotton/acrylic blend of the same weight? I haven’t much experience at substituting yarn so would appreciate any advice if you have the time.
    Thanks so much for your help! :)

    • May 19, 2015 11:30 am

      Hi Lizzy – you can certainly substitute cotton or a blend, it just might have a bit more stretch to it, and a bit less elasticity. I would do a bit of a bigger gauge swatch than usual and wash and dry the swatch as you would the sweater. That will give you a better idea of what the fabric will do.

      • Lizzy permalink
        May 21, 2015 6:30 am

        That’s great, thanks so much, Alexa.

  83. Eugenia permalink
    April 14, 2015 10:49 am

    Hi!

    I love this pattern since the first time I saw it in Ravelry. Now I’m knitting it for my nephew. I started with the 4-6 years old size but it was too small, so I unravelled it and will start with size 6-8 years old (he’s 4!!!). The body won’t be a problem but sleeves were too tight, and there is just once stitch more in the 6-8 size. Should I knit sleeves with a larger needle, maybe? or can I increase more stitches only for the sleeves? I’m at a loss. Thanks for your help!

    Eugenia

  84. Lovelee permalink
    March 30, 2015 12:22 pm

    I love the flax pattern with the stripes (seen on Bodi). Is that pattern going to be available soon?

    • March 30, 2015 9:15 pm

      It’s just a few stripes in the Flax pattern, without garter on the sleeves. So if you want to do it in a worsted weight, go forth an conquer! I DID, however, do this one in a sock weight and the pattern for that will be coming in the next few months.

  85. Ida permalink
    March 9, 2015 11:52 am

    Can you tell me what size you made your little one in the green or teal color. I’m making one now but I’m knitting up a size 1 and loving the pattern.

  86. Susana Rodriguez permalink
    December 22, 2014 10:17 am

    I am trying to understand the Flax pattern and I would like to know what does it mean to change to larger needles after I finish the ribbing (1.5).
    I already got the gauge with neddle #6.
    So for me which is my larger needle? Or do I have to get the gauge with needle #8? Please is there some person that will help me? Thank you very much

  87. Boo permalink
    December 5, 2014 11:31 am

    I am confused here. I am currently learn how to increase after the collar. I have 86 sts and I need to increase 26 sts. I was not sure which one of these I need to increase” M1L or M1R”. Please help me to understand. Thanks!

    • December 12, 2014 9:07 am

      Doesn’t really matter, I did all m1r’s

    • Susana Rodriguez permalink
      December 22, 2014 10:31 am

      May I ask you a question? After you get your gauge and you are going to use needle #8 do you still use neddle #6 for the collar? I am so confused because in my case I get the gauge using #6 so which would be my larger needle?

      • December 23, 2014 10:35 am

        So, if you are getting gauge on #6 needles, that will be your larger needle. Your smaller needle will be a #4.

  88. Arta permalink
    December 2, 2014 11:58 am

    I’m confused about this bit – The Yoke of the sweater is created by increasing (with a kfb) at 8 points on the sweater, 2 sts increased for each sleeve and 2 sts increased on the front and the back.
    I’m knitting the biggest possible size here, which means I measured 17 sts for the sleeve part, but if I use 2 of these 17 to create an extra st by kfb method, than I’ll be left with only 15. And why is it 2 for the sleaves and 1 for the front and back?
    Sorry, if this doesn’t make sense. It’s been years since I last knitted and then I had a teacher.

    • December 3, 2014 5:29 pm

      I think you will find it does work. On the set up round you are ‘using’ one of your garter sts to work an increase but after that the increases will fall in the stockinette portion of the sleeve. There are 2 sts increased per section, 2 for left sleeve, two for the front, 2 for the right sleeve, and 2 for the back.

  89. Mercedes permalink
    November 24, 2014 10:36 pm

    I’m a fairly new knitter, first attempt at a sweater! Love this pattern!!
    I’m on my second attempt, and for some reason, I’ve had to do the opposite of what the pattern says(stitch wise) when setting up the raglan markers for the yoke. Instead of k26, I’ve had to purl(2-4yr size). Any idea why? I don’t have the experience to understand where I’m going wrong! Thank you!

    • December 3, 2014 5:34 pm

      Sorry, I have no insight on this one! You are setting up the raglan markers on the first row and it’s a purl row. Are you working from the most recent version of the Gramps pattern? If you aren’t sure you can either check your Ravlery library (the updated version is there) or email us and we can sort it out.

  90. lauraodonnell permalink
    November 15, 2014 6:24 am

    Thanks so much for this fantastic pattern! Is there a tutorial or instructions on the best way to sew up the underarm hole?

  91. Charlotte permalink
    November 5, 2014 10:11 pm

    After the ribbing part, I don’t understand what you mean by increasing by 4 and etc. Do I just knit the whole thing and increase by 4 or do I follow the marker set up and increase by 4? (I’m doing the 2-4 years old size)

    • November 6, 2014 11:24 pm

      You are knitting the whole round, and increasing 4 sts.

    • jana permalink
      November 24, 2014 10:54 am

      After the ribbing part you split your work in four parts usually i´m using by 52 stiches i´m splitting the part for sleeves back and front like: first 2 stiches increase to 4 and after i count 16 normal stiches than another 2 to 4, than normal stiches 6, than another 2 to 4 and next is also 16 and resst 2 to 4 and finishing the round with 6 normal stiches. i´m not increasing like here, but i make a hole around raglan line. I hope i explained well, english is not my native language ;o)

      note 52 stiches i use for the stronger yarn when i´m using 6-8 mm needle. I´m talking about size, because i did the sweater for almost 3 year old boy.

  92. Cindy permalink
    October 28, 2014 6:26 pm

    Love your patterns! I’m working on Flax now, size Medium. I’m concerned because I’ve needed to knit 19 rounds of straight stockinette after the increases in the yoke to reach the prescribed 9.5 inches. My round gauge is 28 rounds (the pattern says 22 rounds)/4 inches. Is this going to be a problem? Thanks so much for any advice.

    • November 4, 2014 10:28 pm

      Hi Cindy

      I would probably just work to 9 inches. It shouldn’t be too much of a problem, it will mostly be hidden in the underarm. But definitely put in a lifeline (a piece of yarn or thread that is threaded through your live sts, but isn’t knit in) before your sleeve split and try the sweater on after you have knit an inch or 2 of the body. Then you will know if you are going to get a bit of a pouch.

      Alternatively, if you have to go back, you could work disperse the extra rounds within the increase section. You could work 2 rounds even every once and a while while between your increase rounds.

      • Cindy permalink
        November 5, 2014 7:12 pm

        Great suggestions all. I love the support you give to your outstanding patterns. Thank you!

  93. nicole permalink
    October 13, 2014 4:53 pm

    I was hoping you could help me with the sleeve portion of the pattern. I have distributed all of my stitches onto DPNs and i am ready to knit but how do I add the yarn? please help! Thanks!

    • October 17, 2014 2:30 pm

      To join a ball you are just going to start knitting with the new yarn. Put your left needle in the stitch, ready to knit, and put a loop over the left needle and pull the loop through (aka knit the stitch with your new yarn). When knitting the next stitch just be careful not to pull the first stitch out.

  94. Dai permalink
    September 15, 2014 4:28 pm

    The tutorial says that : “If your round gauge matches that stated in the patter, you will need to work 6 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 8, 6, 6, 8, 8,8, 8, 4, 2, 0, 0) rounds even.” Not sure if this might be an error as the pattern says to work rounds 1-2 a total of 7 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 29) times.

    Thank you for this tutorial! Makes getting back into knitting much easier.

    • September 18, 2014 11:04 am

      It means you should work rows 1 and 2 (increase round, work as set) a certain number of times, then work a certain number of rounds even. Glad you like the tutorial!

  95. Nicole permalink
    September 7, 2014 11:14 am

    After a big headache i’ve found the mistake: on this tutorial for the knit increase the second bold # for the size small is 108. Where as on the actual pattern download its 104. Can you refer me to a tutorial where you can take out stitches?

    • September 7, 2014 9:37 pm

      Hi Nicole, sorry, you are correct, I have updated the tutorial page. You should have 104 sts.

  96. Nicole permalink
    September 7, 2014 10:44 am

    Hi, I am currently working on this sweater and I have a question. I am working the Small size and I am at the point where you are suppose to place the marker setup. I have purled 15 PM and then Knit 37 and PM. I then see outside the [ ] it says twice. so I then again purled 15 PM and then knit 37 and PM but i’m left with 4 extra stitches? is that correct? please help, this is my first sweater and i want to make sure i am doing it correctly :) Thanks!!!

  97. Margret permalink
    August 18, 2014 6:27 pm

    Question – for this sweater in S/M, could you please verify: the 3 circular needles suggested (if the knitter’s gauge is correct) are: US#6, 16″ circular needles, and US#8 “32” circular needles, and for the sleeves, US#8 24″ circular needles, and then DPNs in sizes US#6 and US #8?

    What length of DPNs are best for the S/M sizr?

    Thank you!
    Margret

    • August 18, 2014 10:51 pm

      Hi Margret

      For the sleeves and the collar you can start on the 16″ circulars. For the body of the sweater you can switch to a 24″ or a 32″ circ when there are too many stitches on the 16″, it’s up to you, I knit it on 24″ circs but I don’t mind squishing my stitches on the needle.

      For the DPN’s it’s knitters choice. Longer needles (like 8″) are a little easier to learn on, but I like a short, (5-6″), DPN myself.

  98. July 20, 2014 8:47 am

    Great pattern, and the best kudos for your wonderful step-by-step instructions!
    One question: would the pattern accommodate knitting the garter stitch sleeve stripes with another colored yarn?
    Thanks!

  99. Eric permalink
    June 9, 2014 6:45 am

    I am hoping to make two of these for a friend’s wedding present. His wife likes the pattern but would like a v-neck. How could I alter this patter to make a v-neck? Thank you very much.

    • June 10, 2014 10:12 am

      Hello – There’s no easy answer to this one: altering this pattern to make a v-neck would essentially require writing an entirely new pattern… So I’d suggest you find a pattern that already has v-neck shaping included, rather than work with this pattern. Good luck with the wedding knitting!

      • Eric permalink
        July 29, 2014 5:00 am

        I’ve reached the sleeve and have gotten confused. I’ve had to work out my own gauge because my stitches are tighter than yours. When I finish decreasing for a men’s size Large, how long should the sleeve be at that point? Ideally?
        Thanks.

      • August 5, 2014 10:08 pm

        It doesn’t really matter, just 2 inches short of your desired length at the longest (if they are shorter than that, that is okay, just keep in pattern until your sleeve is 2 inches short of desired length)

      • Eric permalink
        August 22, 2014 7:03 pm

        How about if i just wanted to make the collar smaller? Pull it in at the shoulders so it’s closer to a true circle? Any suggestions on how I can do that? Thanks

      • August 24, 2014 2:38 pm

        I’m afraid nothing quick. Altering a pattern in such a way really amounts to a re-design, it will involve a little trial and error!

  100. Lucio permalink
    May 10, 2014 7:53 am

    Absolutely lovely explanation, so useful indeed for me. I might be more encouraged now as I’ve never made a sweater before!
    I’d have a question. I do not particularly like the garter panel on the sleeves. I was wondering: can I just go with stockinette stitch all around the sleeves, or would that mess up the pattern?
    Many thanks for your kind attention ;D

    • May 22, 2014 7:27 am

      It will work just fine if you substitute stockinette for the garter stitch panels on the sleeves, good luck with your first sweater!

  101. marsha shartzer permalink
    April 17, 2014 7:47 am

    your instructions are the best! thanks :)

  102. Nancy G permalink
    March 14, 2014 9:20 am

    I’ve just found your web site via Ravelry and I must say it is fantastic. I wish you had been around when I first returned to knitting. However, I know I will be visiting often. I have just placed Flax and Harvest on my list of “Must do”. I will be referring my future daughter-in-law who is a brand new knitter. I’ve not seen better instructions anywhere. Thank you so much for providing free instructions and patterns. You deserve a gold medal!

  103. TheresaW permalink
    February 15, 2014 10:50 am

    Have made a couple of flat-constructed cardigans and, after reading these awesome instructions set, am ready to go for a fast workup with this Flax sweater in the round. Thank you!

  104. 369877412 permalink
    December 26, 2013 11:04 pm

    I love your design

  105. Rachel Mitchell permalink
    November 13, 2013 6:53 am

    I’ve made two of these in the past couple of weeks, and I absolutely loved knitting them. I’ve been knitting for 20 years and I love the simplicity of the construction (I loathe seaming.) The garter stitch section on the sleeves add visual and knitting interest. I whipped up one in a size 4 and another in a size 8 for my two girls in just a couple of weeks. They really like them too, which is great for a 2 1/2 and 5 year old. I think this will be my go-to pattern from now on for their casual play sweaters. I’m planning on making them the snowflake sweaters for Christmas! Thank you for these awesome patterns and tutorials. Your designs are fantastic and practical!

  106. Sylvia permalink
    October 26, 2013 10:02 am

    This is wonderful! Thank you.

  107. October 26, 2013 9:38 am

    Nice tutorial. Wish this had been around when I first started knitting.

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