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Let’s Knit Socks

October 3, 2013

There is something strangely intimidating about turning a heel. It seems a bit like magic, some decreases, some short rows, and boom: your heel fits perfectly in an item that is otherwise a tube. We assure you it’s as simple as 1, 2, 3! Heel Flap, Heel Turn, and Gusset!

Download a copy of the Rye sock pattern (it’s free!) and let’s get down to business. If you have been knitting along with The Simple Collection as each design was released, there are very few things that are completely new in socks so this will be a breeze!

blog-rye-01

The Rye sock pattern is designed for worsted or aran weight yarn, so that the knitting proceeds QUICKLY. This tutorial uses the stitch counts from that pattern. However, if you’d prefer to work in sock-weight yarn, you can use the free Rye Light sock pattern. The numbers for Rye Light are different than given in this tutorial, but the process is just the same!

::: Ribbing :::

Following the directions for your size cast onto double pointed needles (DPN’s) OR cast on to a 40″+ circular needle (for magic loop) 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48) sts.  This tutorial is illustrated using DPNs.

Tip: For DPNs, I recommend placing 1/2 of your stitches on needle 1, 1/4 of your stitches on needle 2, and 1/4 of your stitches on needle 3. This way you know your round starts at the beginning of the ‘full’ needle.

Work in 1×1 rib (k1, p1) for 0.5 (1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) inches.

This means you will (k1, p1) around until your piece measures the specified length.

Change to larger needles. [an illustration of this technique shown here]

Round 1: k2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5), p10 (10, 12, 12, 12, 14), knit to end

Round 2: knit

This establishes the garter stitch panel that runs down the middle front of the sock. When you are working back and forth garter stitch is created by knitting every row, BUT when you are working in the round it is created by knitting 1 on one round and purling on the next. So your sock will look like mine, pictured below: a panel of garter stitch surrounded by stockinette stitch [learn more about basic stitch patterns here].

Garter panel down the middle

Garter panel down the middle

Tip: If you are having trouble remembering where the garter panel goes (or you just want things to be a little more fool-proof) you may want to place a marker on either side of the panel.

Optional: placing markers on either side of the garter panel

Optional: placing markers on either side of the garter panel

::: Cuff :::

blog-rye-02

Repeat rounds 1-2 until piece measures 2.5 (4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5, 8) inches from cast on, ending with a round 1.

You will maintain the garter panel down the centre and the stockinette everywhere else until your sock measures 2.5 (4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5, 8) inches from cast on.

Tip: If you like a short ankle sock or a longer cuff this is where you would adjust the pattern, making it shorter or longer.

::: Heel Flap :::blog-rye-04

Next round: k14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24), then place these sts on hold. You will work the heel flap on the next k14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, knit to end

Row 2 (WS): sl1, purl to end

Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times, or 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22) rows.

The heel flap is the part of the sock that goes over the back of your heel and is worked back and forth in rows. This means that you will want all of the heel flap stitches on one needle if you are working on DPN’s. It also means that you will be turning your work after each row (instead of continuing in the round).

Finished heel flap

Finished heel flap (you can see the long slipped stitches along the edges)

::: Heel Turn :::

This is the part of the socks that scares people but stay calm, take a deep breath, turn off the TV or send the kids out of the room!

The heel is shaped using short rows: this means that you will turn your work in the middle of a row without knitting all of the stitches. Fear not, we know you haven’t worked all the stitches and it’s okay. Where it says ‘turn work’ you turn from RS of the work facing you to the WS of the work facing you, in preparation to work back in the other direction.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k6 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14) ssk, k1, turn work

Row 2 (WS): sl1, p1 (3, 5, 7, 5, 7), p2tog, p1, turn work

Now we are all set up. You should see 2 gaps in your work. They will occur where we turned our work. They look like this:

thegap

Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work

Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work

Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked – 8 (10, 12, 14, 14, 16) sts remain.

Knit across the heel stitches.

Heel accomplished! It will look like this:

heelturncomplete

Completed heel turn

::: Gusset :::

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Now you have kind of a funny looking thing. It’s a tube with a flap and a little triangle, not really like a sock at all yet. But it’s time to join it all back together into a tube. To do this we will pick up and knit stitches along the sides of the heel flap (remember all those slipped stitches?).

Where to pick up

Where to pick up and knit

pickup2

::: how to pick up and knit stitches :::

To pick up and knit stitches you need the right side (RS) of your work facing you, that’s the knit side.

Step 1:  Insert your needle into the stitch (from RS to WS)

Step 2:  Loop the yarn around your needle (at the back of work)

Step 3:  Pull the loop through to the RS (using the needle tip, as though you were knitting a stitch)

Now you will have a stitch on your right hand needle. You have picked up a stitch!

Put your needle through the stitch from front (RS) to back

Put your needle through the stitch from front (RS) to back

Wrap your yarn around the needle

Wrap your yarn around the needle and pull the loop through

Stitches have been picked up!

Stitches have been picked up!

Once you have picked up and knit stitches along the heel flap you work across the top of the foot, maintaining the garter panel as established and knitting all the other stitches.

If you are working on a long circular needle with the magic loop technique, you will need to place a marker after the picked up stitches. If you are working on DPNs, work the top of the foot on a separate needle, instead of a marker, you’ll have the gap between needles.

Once you have worked across the top of the foot you will need to place a marker if you are on circulars and if you are using double points you will pick up down the other side of the heel flap using another needle.

Next you will k4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts (this is 1/2 of your heel sts). If you are working with circulars you will place a marker here to indicate the beginning of the round. If you are working with double pointed needles, knit these stitches with the same needle you picked up the second half of the heel with, so that the end of that needle means the end of the round.

Picking up stitches complete. The beginning of the round is in the middle of the heel.

Picking up stitches complete. Note that the blue markers in the work indicate the garter panel.

Round 1: knit

Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, work in pattern across top of foot to marker, k1, ssk, knit to end

Work rounds 1-2 a total of 5 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9) times.  [28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48) sts]

Note: if you are working on double pointed needles there won’t be any markers (except maybe ones you have marking the garter panel), so when it says ‘knit to 3 sts before marker’ you will be knitting to 3 sts before the end of the needle. When it says ‘work in pattern across top of foot to marker’ you will be working to the end of needle 2. The end of needle 3 marks the end of the round.

Once you’ve completed this section, you will have decreased the additional stitches picked up for the ‘gusset’ triangle at the side of the foot.

To shift beginning of round (BOR) remove marker, k7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12), slip marker – this is the new BOR, located at the side of the foot. Keep the second marker after the instep sts in place.

If you’re working on DPNS, this means that you’ll simply shift the beginning-of-round point the end of what was your second needle.

Completed gusset will look like this

Completed gusset will look like this

::: Foot :::

Continue working in the round, keeping the top of foot in pattern until your piece measures 3 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) inches from back of heel or 1 (1, 1.5, 2, 2, 2.25) inches short of desired foot length.

The foot is simple as can be! You simply knit around and around, maintaining the garter panel at the top of the foot as set.  You can try on the socks at this point to see how long they should be.

::: Toe :::

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There are 4 decrease points for the toe

There are 4 decrease points for the toe, two on each side of the foot. The markers in the work above are around the garter panel, they are not at the decrease points.

Round 1:     k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 (4 sts decreased)

Round 2:     knit

Repeat rounds 1-2 two (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more times [16 (16, 20, 24, 28, 32) sts]

Then repeat round 1 until 12 (12, 16 16, 20, 20) sts remain.  Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail and, then graft toe using kitchener stitch [tutorial here].

Once you have grafted the toe, the socks are finished!  Simply weave in your ends inside the sock, and then wear with pleasure!  Blocking isn’t really necessary for socks, as they are snug and conform to the contours of your feet.  Congratulations – you have just finished your first sock!

Ready for the kitchener stitch

Ready for the kitchener stitch

Weave in your ends and enjoy your new socks!


This tutorial is part of The Simple Collection – our 100% free learn-to-knit series.  Check out the 13 fabulous free patterns sized from baby to big, and get started making modern seamless knits for the entire family!  Like our work?  Get our email updates and we will let you know about new patterns, tutorials, and events.

205 Comments leave one →
  1. November 21, 2019 10:32 am

    You are my hero for this post. Thank you so much!

  2. Cassie permalink
    November 14, 2019 5:18 pm

    How do you get 50 stitches for the gusset and foot? I thought it should be 10+10+12=32 stitches. I am knitting the child size

  3. Delia permalink
    October 22, 2019 6:46 pm

    When we pick up and knit stitches on the sides of the heel flap, it was not clear to me how many stitches I was supposed to pick up.

    • October 23, 2019 9:46 am

      Hi Delia – it depends which size you are kitting, but it does specify in the pattern

  4. sarah permalink
    September 6, 2019 11:43 pm

    Hi! Beginning-intermediate knitter here. I’m really confused about the gusset & foot instructions. For Round 1, it says to knit (all around). But don’t you have to maintain the garter panel as established? In that case, I thought you’d have to PURL the garter section in this round, seeing that you last purled in Round 1 of the cuff, and later knit across the garter after you picked up your first 9 stitches along the heel flap.

    I feel I am missing something obvious but can’t figure it out!

    • September 10, 2019 2:07 pm

      Hi Sarah – you do indeed want to keep that garter panel intact. The cuff ends with a purl, the heel flap set up is a knit in the garter panel, then the first round of the gusset and foot section has you purl across the garter panel (work in pattern across top of foot, keeping the garter panel intact), so Round 1 is a knit, round 2 is ‘work in pattern’ which means you are going to purl the top of the foot. Does that help?

  5. September 3, 2019 2:16 pm

    The pattern I have is telling me to move my marker. Is the beginning of my toe on the back side of the sock? I looked at your tutorial and you say nothing about markers except that they are between the garder stitch. I am a little confused. I can see where you say I am to decrease please help. Don’t want to mess up my socks. Very pleased with the pattern. I am using magic loop.

    • September 4, 2019 12:52 pm

      Hi Lynda – because I used DPNs for the tutorials I didn’t use markers, I just treated the ends of my needles as markers (since markers just slide off the end of the needles). The BOR for the socks is at the centre of the bottom of the sock during the foot part, but moves to the side of the foot for the toe decreases. You can divide the number of sts in 2 and the garter panel should be in the centre of the top of the foot, decrease markers will be at each side of the foot.

  6. Toni permalink
    July 18, 2019 4:27 pm

    When knitting the Heel Flap where it says row 1: sl1 then knit and row 2: sl1 then purl – are you slipping those first 2 stitches knitwise or purlwise with the yarn in front or in back? Hope this question makes sense.

  7. Liz permalink
    July 4, 2019 7:06 pm

    I have knitted plenty of socks! The toe decrease here is confusing
    Needle 1(my start) 15 stitches
    Needle 2 30 stitches where i have the parents stitches(top of the foot)
    Needle 3 15 stitches

    Where do I put marker for BOR so I can begin to decrease?

    • July 15, 2019 9:42 pm

      Hi Liz – your BOR marker should be at the side of the foot (at the start of needle 2)

  8. Abby permalink
    June 9, 2019 7:58 am

    I’m not new to fiber arts but I am a fairly inexperienced knitter. I’ve embarked on my first sock using this pattern and I find it very easy to follow. I love this pictures that are associated with each step. This is very helpful. I am very close to finishing my first sock! I’ve noticed some errors I’ve made and I know exactly where I went wrong so I can improve on my next one. I was very afraid to begin a sock pattern but it really isn’t as hard as I thought it’s be! Thanks for this easy-to-follow, free pattern!

    • June 10, 2019 1:39 am

      Congratulations on taking on the challenge! I remember back when I made my first sock, and how much I believed it would be complicated and difficult! But you tackle each step (each stitch) one at a time, and soon discover it’s not so hard!

  9. Chris permalink
    April 6, 2019 4:33 pm

    I had a horrible time following this pattern. It was very confusing in a lot of places. I’m off to find an easier pattern that explains things better. Really disappointed in this confusing pattern!

    • April 7, 2019 7:58 pm

      Hi Chris – If you have an specific feedback on where things could be clearer we would love to hear it.

  10. Michelle K. permalink
    March 21, 2019 4:33 am

    Hi-I am a fairly new knitter. I started with hats and have moved on to socks. I am currently knitting the Rye sock pattern. I used the size for 44 sts on my DPNs and am ready to switch to a larger size needle and move to Round 1 of the pattern. The way I am reading the pattern is that instead of K2, I will Knit 5, because that is what is in the parentheses for the size I chose. Then instead of P10, I will Purl 12 and then knit to end. Am I mis-interpreting what the pattern says? It doesn’t seem like the number of total stitches will add up to 44. Thank you in advance for any help you could give.

    • March 21, 2019 10:40 am

      Hi Michelle – You have it just right, you are going to k5, p12, knit to end.

  11. susie q permalink
    March 10, 2019 8:51 am

    any patterns for plain vanilla toe up socks?

  12. Margaret D permalink
    March 10, 2019 6:34 am

    Thank you for this tutorial!!! It’s just what I needed.

  13. Emma Gibson permalink
    February 27, 2019 10:45 am

    I’m confused about how to do this in magic loop once you get to the heel flap. Do I place all of the stitches on hold on a separate needle and just use the circulars to knit the other section back and forth? I guess I don’t understand how to stop knitting in magic loop and change over to knitting flat with a gap in the stitches. I’m probably just missing something.

    • February 27, 2019 8:31 pm

      Hi Emma – it helps if you put all of the heel sts on one needle and the rest of the sts on the other. Alternatively, if it’s giving you a lot of trouble the first time you are doing that section, you can put the non heel flap sts on a separate needle or a bit of waste yarn, just to keep it super clear.

  14. Stitchmore permalink
    February 20, 2019 7:08 am

    Excellent tutorial help resource.

  15. Dave Jaye permalink
    February 9, 2019 8:34 pm

    Regarding the heal on the magic loop, do I go back and forth (knit and purl) as directed? — or was that assuming I’m on DPNS? I’m not clear if I should do all the 22 rows of the heal before going in the round again. Thanks for your help!

    • February 13, 2019 4:50 pm

      Hi Dave – yep, back and forth, whether you are using DPNs or Magic Loop it is the same.

    • Vickie permalink
      February 15, 2019 6:16 am

      On cuff knit 2 purl 10 knit to end. So the remaining stitches on other two needles are to be knitted as well? Then round two is all knitted. Newbie here 😋

      • February 20, 2019 12:42 pm

        Hi Vickie – you may be a newbie but you have it just right!

  16. Dave Jaye permalink
    February 5, 2019 6:22 pm

    I’m hoping to do two socks on the same circular needle. If I cast on separately, will I be able to finish the pattern as written, or will the second sock prevent me from knitting it according to your pattern? Thanks!

    • Dave Jaye permalink
      February 5, 2019 6:24 pm

      I should have added that I’m using magic loop (but I’m guessing you figured that out). Thanks!

    • February 6, 2019 9:27 am

      Hi Dave – I haven’t knit very many socks 2 at a time (only once!) but I can’t see any reason you can’t knit the Rye socks 2aat

      • Dave Jaye permalink
        February 28, 2019 4:28 pm

        Thank you so much for your help! Yes, I’m nearly to the toes and was able to successfully do 2aat. For my first pair of socks, I’d say they look pretty darn good. I greatly appreciate your patience and willingness to answer questions! :-)

  17. Jane permalink
    October 28, 2018 5:55 am

    Greetings! Your pattern is very thorough and easy to understand. Thank you! My question pertains to the finished product. Will these socks be appropriate for my granddaughter to wear in snow boots and tennis shoes on cold MN school days? I am looking for a versatile sock pattern that she can wear all day at school. Again, thank you! Jane

    • October 29, 2018 9:43 am

      Hi Jane – it would depend a lot on the shoes. These are worsted weight socks so they might be a bit big for tennis shoes but probably appropriate for boots

  18. July 25, 2018 2:49 pm

    Hi, I’m working this pattern, for the first time 2aat with magic loop, i have the garter stitches on my front needle and my heel stitches on the back needles, I’m a bit confused about how to change my BOR (which is currently sock 1 garter pattern) , where should my BOR be? Thanks for the lovely pattern.

  19. Magenta Jackson permalink
    July 7, 2018 8:13 am

    For the Heel Flap, when it says to K14, then place these sts on hold…do I put these stitches on scrap yarn? This is my first pair of socks, Im trying to understand before I start this project. Thank you!

    • July 7, 2018 11:44 am

      You can just leave them on the needles, you are just going to ignore them for a bit

  20. sleazyreader permalink
    March 18, 2018 3:40 pm

    Hi! I am knitting the mediums and am currently just knitting along the gussett until I get to the toe portion. I somehow have an extra stitch (45 instead of 44) and can’t figure out where it is….could you tell me how many stitches there should be between the markers? I’ve been trying to figure out where I need to get rid of my extra stitch and am getting very confused!

    • March 28, 2018 4:05 pm

      Hi- The sock should be split in half for the toe, so 22 on the top and 22 on the bottom

  21. Jill permalink
    February 23, 2018 11:12 am

    Hello
    Making size adult M
    At the gusset & foot section
    Supposed to pick up and knit 12 stitches along each side of heel flap
    But…I only have 10 (slipped) stitches to pick up.
    Thought I was supposed to work the flap for total of 20 rows which resulted in 10 end stitches to pick up.
    Did I not knit enough rows on the heel flap?
    Thanks
    Jill

    • March 13, 2018 11:00 am

      Hi Jill – you should be able to pick up 12 sts from the edge, the short row heel give you another row to pick up in and you want to pick up a st from the row before the heel flap starts.

      • Jill permalink
        March 13, 2018 11:28 am

        Thank you.
        That’s exactly what I did.
        The socks look great !
        Jill

  22. Charlotte Powell permalink
    February 16, 2018 4:47 am

    This may be a very stupid question BUT, I’m a sock first timer!
    I have managed the rib successfully but to continue the knitting do you continue magic loop the whole time?

    • February 19, 2018 1:16 pm

      Hi Charlotte – sort of. You are going to work the heel back and forth in rows, but the rest is in the round, so you would keep going with magic loop

  23. Chelsea permalink
    November 30, 2017 1:56 pm

    Thank you for the detailed pattern/instructions, and taking the time to answer questions! First socks and I’m really enjoying it so far, and I’m looking forward to trying more patterns from your site.

    I’m a bit stumped on the gusset section (working on dpns). I understand about picking up the stitches along the first side of the heel, working in pattern along the top of the heel, and picking up stitches down the other side of the heel flap.

    From there, you instruct to k7 (in my case). Would I be knitting 7 FROM the first needle of the heel flap, essentially adding 7 stitches on to the last needle that picked up stitches from the other side of the flap?

    If that’s the case, then am I picking up an empty needle and starting Round 1 (K) from that half-emptied needle and working ’til…where? I guess I’m confused where the round ends from there.

    • Chelsea permalink
      November 30, 2017 1:59 pm

      …and by top of the heel I meant top of the foot.

      • Chelsea permalink
        November 30, 2017 2:44 pm

        Nevermind, I forgot about the 14 stitches on the heel flap….this is what I get for working ahead in my mind.

  24. Rachael Ann permalink
    October 26, 2017 11:59 am

    I am just learning to do socks again, your diagrams and pictures help a lot! I,m learning to do Magic Loop this time and am enjoying it. I would like to place a backlink in my sock blog, so people can see how many ways there are to do socks.

  25. Rose permalink
    October 4, 2017 2:21 pm

    Hi – I’m a very new knitter – your site is marvelous! Thank you – just wondering if there are any plans (or if you have already done it and I’ve missed the post) for working two socks at a time on circular needles. I like the idea of doing both together so (a) they are both the same size and (b) I will be sure to have two socks ;-)

  26. Carly permalink
    September 13, 2017 9:05 pm

    First timer here. So how do u know which size to knit?

    • September 15, 2017 12:12 pm

      Hi Carly – You will want to check your foot measurements against the measurements listed in the pattern.

  27. Kirsten permalink
    June 7, 2017 10:33 pm

    Ok….so I have knit my first ever sock using this pattern, but, I have not kept the stitch markers in place (I took them off by mistake) and I have no idea of what I need to do for the toe!!!!
    As I have to knit the second sock, should I just place my first sock on to a stitch holder and knit my second sock (making sure markers are in place at all times!!!!) and then work out where they should be on the first sock when I am up to the toe again on sock number 2!!!!

    • June 14, 2017 11:46 am

      Hi Kirsten – the garter panel is in the middle of the top of the foot. So if you divide your number of sts by 2 you can place your garter panel in the middle of those sts you will have it right.

  28. Rachel G. Resnick permalink
    May 14, 2017 7:24 am

    Toe Decrease – I am using double point needles to knit an Adult M and am at the toe decrease. It seems I lost the position of my marker while working on the gusset. How many stitches should I have between the garter pattern and the top of the foot on each side to do the decreases at the correct location? I cannot seem to find the right place to work the required decreases. Thank you.

    • May 16, 2017 11:54 am

      Hi Rachel – You want to count up your sts and divide by 2, 1/2 for the top of the foot and 1/2 for the bottom of the foot. The garter panel will be in the middle of the top of the foot

  29. Laurie permalink
    March 11, 2017 9:11 am

    Hi. I am an experienced knitter but new to socks and I’m having trouble understanding the heel turn. It seems the decreases don’t end up centered on the adult small socks and when I come back on row 3 there aren’t enough stitches left to do the ssk. What am I missing?

    • March 11, 2017 9:48 am

      Hi Laurie – I’m sorry, I’m really not sure. The socks have been knit a few thousand times so I know the heel turn works. Maybe if you drop us an email with exactly what you are doing we can help?

      • Laurie permalink
        March 11, 2017 5:48 pm

        Duh – I figured it out. Sorry was just having trouble with the ssk. Wasn’t knighting together the slipped stitches. Did a google of ssk and figured it out. I’m mostly a cable sweater knitter – we don’t use that much in cables! Thanks for the quick reply.

  30. Candy (Noreen) Scott permalink
    January 15, 2017 11:31 pm

    I am using 4 DP’s and putting on 40stitches, ignoring the bits about the garter stitch panel & the circular needle info. I am confused, as you leave something important out? You don’t say how many stitches to pick-up along the sides of the heel flap? One pattern I have, says knit 20 rows and then pick-up 20 stitches, but find that very difficult, another one says pick-up only HALF the amount of stitches, in relation to the rows knitted? What do I do, if using this pattern, please? Every beginners pattern I use, has a bit that I find difficult to understand? My worst part of basic sock making is this and then trying to arrange the stitches back correctly on the 3 needles? Hope you can help. Thanks so much.

    • January 16, 2017 11:32 am

      Hi Candy – I’m sorry, I’m not sure I understand the question. If you download the Rye pattern it has the details about working the heel flap, heel turn, and the gusset…..

      • Candy (Noreen) Scott permalink
        January 17, 2017 12:19 am

        Sorry, maybe too much Info? I am referring to the above pattern called Let’s Knit Socks- go to the Gusset Section, about picking up stitches along both sides of the heel flap. It doesn’t say how many to pick up on each side? I have 40 stitches casted on, to begin the sock with, so I presume, that it is either 18 to pick-up each side or 9, being half the amount, of heel flap rows knitted? Just require the number, please?

      • January 17, 2017 9:25 am

        Hi Candy – this is just a tutorial, the pattern (Rye socks) has all the details on the exact numbers to pick up for the different sizes. It’s a free download here: http://tincanknits.com/pattern-SC-rye.html

  31. Linda C. permalink
    January 14, 2017 9:11 am

    I am ready to begin to turn the heel on an adult small sock and want to be sure I am reading the directions in the parentheses correctly. Row 1 (RS) is clear. However, row 2(WS) says:
    Sl1,p1(3,5,7,5,7) etc. Is there a specific reason why the adult small says to purl 7 stitches while the adult medium 5 and the adult large is 7? All other stitches in parentheses seem to go from smaller number to larger ones. Thank you!

    • January 16, 2017 11:28 am

      Hi Linda – Yep, that’s the only way the math works for the heel.

    • Linda C. permalink
      January 18, 2017 2:33 pm

      Thank you! I went ahead diligently following the directions and it worked! I think it was a case of being a timid sock knitter!! Getting stronger!

  32. Sara permalink
    January 4, 2017 6:55 pm

    I am at the toe shaping: If I move my BOR to the side of the foot, I will only have 2 stitches left on my front needle to do the k1, ssk. I have less stitches on my front needle than the back. What can I do to make this work on circular needle?

    • January 5, 2017 10:17 am

      Hi Sara – once you move your BOR to the side of your foot you can re-arrange your needles however you like, if you are working magic loop, just pull the cord out at a different spot and place a marker at the new BOR.

      • Sara permalink
        January 5, 2017 10:55 am

        ok thank you so much!

  33. Sara permalink
    January 2, 2017 10:02 pm

    ok so I am at the gusset, picked up my stitches and now I’m doing round 1 and 2. For Round 2, I am a little confused. Am I using only the marker that is in the middle of the heel (BOR)? When it says “work in pattern across foot to marker” am I k3, P12, knit to end (BOR) and then K1,ssk, knit all the way again to BOR?

    • January 2, 2017 10:39 pm

      Hi Sara – You should have a BOR marker at the middle of the bottom of the foot (or if you are using DPNs you will have a new needle start there), a marker at the beginning of the top of the foot, and a marker at the end of the top of the foot. Your decreases come before the top of the foot and after the top of the foot.

      • Sara permalink
        January 4, 2017 6:04 pm

        Thank you!

  34. December 13, 2016 12:42 pm

    Hi, where would I make adjustments for a larger calf and ankle and small foot? I have a 13 inch calf, a 9 inch ankle and a size 7 foot – thanks

    • December 13, 2016 12:45 pm

      You would probably want to cast on more sts and work decreases over the leg to get to the desired size for the foot (probably ultimately you want to get to the adult M numbers). The foot length is adjustable.

  35. December 5, 2016 7:40 am

    This is an amazing pattern and tutorial! I’ve spent the better part of three years knitting scarves, blankets… anything flat, but this pattern has given me the confidence to try my hand at something a bit more “advanced.”

    If I remember correctly, there are pictures at each step (i.e. gusset, heel turn) to give some indication of how the sock is supposed to look. However, they are for those knitting on dpns. Would it be possible to have images available for the magic loop option as well? It would be greatly appreciated, especially when it comes to rejoining the row after the heel turn.

  36. Zee permalink
    November 30, 2016 3:17 pm

    In toe decrease,

    Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2,
    ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1
    [4 sts decreased]

    “knit to 3 sts before marker” –> I’m on DPNs…Is this this same as knitting until the 3 last sts on the second needle

    • November 30, 2016 7:14 pm

      So your markers are at the start of the round and at the halfway point in your round. I keep half my sts on the first needle so my markers would be at the beginning and end of that needle.

      • Diane Gauthier permalink
        December 11, 2016 7:12 pm

        How do you keep your markers from falling off the ends of the needles, if they are on the ends? I’m at the toe decreases and am completely lost! I’m using DPNs, size L, there are 12 stitches on each needle, divided up equally from mid-heel around. I’m assuming the decreases are along the sides of the toe, but I can’t figure out where to start my ‘count’.

      • December 13, 2016 8:52 am

        Hi Diane – When I work with DPNs I don’t use markers, I treat the ends of the needles as markers. So I keep the top of the foot all on one needle and treat the ends of that needle as my ‘markers’

      • Angela permalink
        May 2, 2019 10:47 am

        I’m having trouble with the toe as well. I have the BOR marker, and a marker on either side of the garter panel, but it seems to be referencing a different marker. What’s going on here? There should be two decreases on each side of the foot, but if I follow this pattern exactly using my garter panel markers 3 would be close to each other. Where in the pattern was a marker placed at the halfway point of the round?

      • May 3, 2019 12:52 am

        Hi Angela – the markers around your garter panel are not part of the pattern, it was just a suggestion for keeping your garter panel in the right spot. The second marker is placed during the gusset section, it’s the second marker in that section.

    • May 2, 2019 10:55 am

      When I move the BOR 12 stitches from the bottom of the heel it definitely does not replace the first market of the garter panel as suggested in another comment. So then the pattern says “k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1” I guess that the “marker” is the first marker of the garter panel, but then there’s no mention of the second marker and no more decreases until all the way around to the BOR. This doesn’t make sense to me.

      • Angela permalink
        May 2, 2019 11:10 am

        I think I get it now. When I saw PM after picking up stiches from the heel flap, I assumed they were supposed to be for the garter panel and put them there, so I ended up without the markers needed for the toe decrease. Aaagghh. Thanks for the free pattern. Other than this it was super easy for a first time sock knitter.

  37. Julia Freedman permalink
    October 30, 2016 9:54 am

    Hi there – this is my first attempt at socks. I’m at the point of the toe decrease and am at a stand still. When I moved my BOR 11K to the right it is at exactly the same point as my first marker. Therefore I can’t do what the Round 1 instructs. What have I done wrong? I’m using the magic loop and I lost a marker but am sure I replaced it in the correct place. How many stitches are there between the #1 and #2 markers, between the pattern? Thanks!

    • October 31, 2016 9:03 pm

      Hi Julia – you’ve got it right, when you move the BOR marker, you move it to the same position as the first marker, so you will only need 1 marker in your work. When you shift the BOR you go down to 2 markers in your work.

  38. Leah permalink
    October 21, 2016 5:43 pm

    Hello, I’m a beginning knitter working on my first ever sock. I was able to turn the heal successfully, but when it came time to pick up the stitches from the heel flap, I realized that somehow everything got oriented in such a way that I must work from the wrong side (purl when the pattern says knit, etc). I am wondering if this is actually a problem–if I pay attention to my stitches, can I just keep knitting from the wrong side? Also, how in the heck did this happen? I first noticed the discrepancy when I was looking at the pictures of how to turn the heel–I noticed that the “wrong side” was oriented towards the left while mine was oriented to the right. Thanks!

    • October 23, 2016 12:40 am

      Hi Leah – It might be fine, it’s hard to say without seeing it. Perhaps you turned your work instead of joining to work in the round again?

      • Leah permalink
        October 23, 2016 10:18 am

        Okay, since posting this I’ve mostly resolved the problem. I think you’re correct that I must have turned it one extra time when turning the heel. What was actually happening was that I was knitting the round backwards. I ended up having to turn the work back around and re-knit one DPN, so it seems to have one more row than the other two. I’m not sure if this will cause major problems down the line, but I had to do it to get the working yarn in the spot that I needed it to be. I’m glad I decided to do it rather than try to continue to knit the round backwards, because I immediately ran in to the conundrum of how to do a ssk backwards…would it just be a ssp? Maybe, but I had no way of really knowing with my limited experience. Thank you for such a great tutorial–it is so clear that even when I run in to rookie problems, I can troubleshoot my way out of them.

  39. Tabea permalink
    October 9, 2016 1:48 pm

    Hi, thank you for your tutorial. I am confused with the toe section. I am knitting on ciricular needles and currently have two markers placed – I am knitting baby socks and the markers are placed 2 stitches before the garterpanel on either side. Following your tutorial to shift the BOR I have K7 from the start of my needle (I assume this is my current BOR, I do not have a marker at the moment because it is the start of my needle) and then I end up for my BOR to be at exact the same place as the first marker anyway? Is this correct? And can I get rid of the two other markers now? And when you say round 1 and 2, does this mean starting at the new BOR? So far your instructions have been very clear, but now I am a bit lost. Thank you.

    • October 10, 2016 4:29 pm

      Hi Tabea – it sounds like your BOR marker has already moved to the right place, so you have the 2 markers separating the sock into 2 halves. The decreases come on either side of these two markers. Does that help?

      • Tabea permalink
        October 12, 2016 2:11 pm

        Hi Alexa, thank you for this. However, I think it is still not right.When it says knit to 3st before marker do you mean the first marker or the second marker? I have now knitted one round assuming you mean the first marker (after 7 stitches), but if I carry on doing it this way quite soon I wont be able to have any three stitches before my marker left because this is where I am decreasing… Thank you for any clarification!

      • October 19, 2016 9:42 am

        Hi Tabea – it is hard to help without actually seeing the work. When you are working the gusset you will have a marker at the middle of the bottom of the foot. That is your BOR marker. At the start of the toe you are going to move that marker to the side of the foot (by removing the marker, knitting, and re-placing the marker). You will then only have 2 markers, one at each side of the foot. You will work k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the next marker (the second marker), k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the end of the round, k2tog, k1. You are decreasing before and after each marker. You may want to make the 2 markers different colours so you know which one is the BOR marker.

    • November 6, 2017 5:03 pm

      I’m also having trouble here. I don’t have a second marker–just the BOR marker. Where should the second marker be placed? There’s nothing in the pattern about a second marker.

      • November 8, 2017 9:30 am

        Hi Kimberly – the second marker is placed at the gusset:

        Pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along the edge of heel
        flap, PM, work in pattern across top of foot, keeping the garter
        panel intact, PM, pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts along
        heel flap, k4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts, mark the new beginning of round
        (located at the bottom of the foot). [38 (44, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts]

        At the toe you should have 1/2 of your sts for the top of the foot (with the garter panel in the middle) and 1/2 of your sts on the bottom of the foot.

  40. Emma permalink
    July 11, 2016 5:52 pm

    I just finished my first sock following your pattern and I’m so pleased. I made heaps of mistakes and dropped stitches, mucked up the pattern but learned heaps! And I made a sock that I can actually wear. I’ve started the second sock and it is already much better than the first. Thank you so much for the great pattern and instructions. I’m mightily chuffed!

  41. Eve permalink
    June 21, 2016 12:21 pm

    After knitting the heel how many stichess do I pick up? I’m knitting medium

  42. June 9, 2016 7:52 am

    Reblogged this on .

  43. May 23, 2016 11:49 am

    I am knitting socks for the first time. Thanks for the pattern and tutorial! I have a question about the heel. The pattern says:

    Next round: k14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24), then place these sts on hold. You will work the heel flap on the next k14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts.

    I am knitting medium. Do I knit the 22, put them on hold, knit the back 22 and then start the rows? Or do I only knit the ones being put on hold and then start the rows?

    Thank you!

    • May 24, 2016 11:17 am

      Hi – only knit the ones on hold, then start the short rows.

      • May 25, 2016 5:10 am

        Thank you!

      • Sara permalink
        December 16, 2016 7:16 pm

        For Row 1 (RS) of heel flap, I still use the back needle with the working yarn attached, to go into the front needle stitches?

      • December 19, 2016 9:13 am

        Hi Sara – yep, you have it just right

  44. Tabea permalink
    May 15, 2016 6:07 am

    How many stitches of gauge do you recommend for the rye socks? Thank you.

  45. April 28, 2016 10:02 am

    Beginning Knitter here- wanted to leave a note of appreciation for these easy to follow and pictorial (as opposed to the dreaded video only) instructions. I’ve been procrastinating on attempting to start a pair of socks. I have frogged them 3x and this is just in the ribbing, as my stitches were all messed up – I’ll try to describe my issue: ONE st. turns into TWO sts, instead of being one neat yarn with a neat st ‘knot’ on the bottom of the needle, the ‘knot’ part of the st is widened somehow? so I end up making increases because the “stitch part” of the st. is all messy. Do you know what I mean? I am not sure, but I think it is because I am not putting the yarn in front for Purls and yarn in back for Knits properly- even though I try. I keep just unraveling it all and starting over, soon I will be too frustrated to attempt it again. I don’t have a grandma or auntie or knitting friend around, and the I absolutely hate having to spend hours sifting through videos that don’t address this one issue. I can’t be the only one?

    • April 28, 2016 10:18 am

      (sorry can’t edit my 1st comment) when knitting in the round, it is difficult for me to place yarn in front for purls and yarn in back for knits. causing this weird messy stitch thing giving me accidental increases. The fumbling with all the needles and trying to keep the working yarn on the outside of the needles is really messing me up. I think I just need to watch more videos.

    • April 29, 2016 9:44 am

      Hi – I would say the problem is definitely that you aren’t putting your yarn to the front for purls or the back for knits. This is a crucial step in ribbing because if you don’t you will end up doubling your stitches. You want to make sure your yarn goes to the front BETWEEN the needles and to the back BETWEEN the needles. IF you go over the needle you will end up increasing the number of stitches.

  46. Kara C permalink
    April 23, 2016 6:57 am

    Question—I live in a VERY hot, humid climate. In the winter our coldest days are only in the 40s, and that is rare. Since animal fibers are generally out of the question, I usually use a light weight cotton, bamboo or synthetic yarn.

    So to my question….Is it possible to convert this pattern to a fingering weight? If so, would I just adjust my needle size?

    Btw, thank you so much for taking the time to post these fantastic tutorials. I usually find it difficult to learn knitting techniques from anything other than straightforward videos. With your photos, I don’t find it difficult at all because you have explained everything so well already. And Free…need it say more!!

    • April 24, 2016 10:17 am

      Hi Kara – while it would certainly be POSSIBLE to convert this pattern to fingering weight, it is a bit of a jump so adjusting needles size probably wont work. I would recommend Jane Richmond’s Climb socks, they are in fingering weight and have a simple construction.

      • Kara C permalink
        April 26, 2016 5:51 am

        I just checked ’em out. Thanks for the recommendation and the quick reply.

        You guys rock!

  47. Dawn permalink
    March 29, 2016 5:23 am

    Question about Rye pattern,
    Heel turn size medium adult
    Row 2. Sl1, p1(3,5,7,5,7)
    Why isn’t it p7 like the small and large sock

    • March 29, 2016 10:32 am

      Just the magic of the heel turn!

      • Dawn permalink
        April 1, 2016 3:43 am

        It doesn’t look right, after I’ve done it??

      • April 4, 2016 2:28 pm

        I promise, it is right. If you want to email us a picture I’d be happy to take a look though.

  48. Joni permalink
    March 3, 2016 10:40 am

    I am doing great on the sock except I seem to have dropped a stitch on the edge. But I cannot see the obvious dropped stitch that should be there! I tried to find the spot I think it is but then there’s a hole under that spot after I start fixing it.. I’m thinking I’m going to have to unravel quite a bit :( Why am
    I not seeing where this stitch is.. I have the loose ladder look but..I have picked up stitches before..Is it me lol?!

    • March 4, 2016 10:51 am

      It may just be a ladder, rather than a dropped stitch. If you are using DPNs for the first time you may just want to make sure you are giving the first stitch on the needle an extra tug.

  49. Sallye permalink
    March 2, 2016 9:29 am

    Just started these socks. Using magic loop technique. Just completed cuff. Instructions easy to understand. Onward!

  50. January 20, 2016 6:28 am

    Hi! I am not new to sock knitting but I was hoping you could help me out. Every pair of socks that I have made for myself fit beautifully at first but then begin to slouch and then are all stretched out. I am using US 2 needles as I am a tight knitter and get 8-9 spi depending on the yarn. I have used a variety of yarn, wool and wool with nylon at different percentages. What could I be doing wrong?

    • January 25, 2016 12:57 pm

      Hmm, I’m not sure. I would definitely try a smaller needle. It may be an issue of washing? When you wash them make sure you aren’t blocking them too big.

    • March 3, 2016 1:11 pm

      I’ve had a similar problem in the past that was solved by changing the way I store my socks: instead of balling them up together, or storing them inside one another so the fabric can’t get a rest, I started laying them flat on top of one another and gently rolling them into a cylinder with the “elastic” on the inside of the roll (storing them on end in the drawer for easy access). I’ve found they keep their shape better and last longer than before. I’ve also heard of using the next size down from what’s recommended in a pattern for the foot to keep it from losing it’s shape.

  51. Candace permalink
    January 8, 2016 10:36 am

    This is my first “real” knitting project that will be something other than a scarf or dish cloth. It was going alright, but after I turned the heel and started working down the foot part of the sock the pattern became inside-out. What did I do wrong?

    • January 9, 2016 9:06 pm

      Hi Candace – are you sure you aren’t just looking at your knitting inside out? What happens when you push the knitting through so it is right side out?

  52. Destiny permalink
    December 24, 2015 5:49 pm

    I love this pattern! Thank you so much. And this is a silly question.. but how do I know if I’m making a left sock or right sock? I’ve been looking at the pattern and I’m starting on the heel right now but it’s been bugging me.

    Thank you!

    • December 24, 2015 11:09 pm

      Not a silly questions, but in the case of this pattern, they are the same! There is no Left or Right foot. Some patterns which have mirrored stitch patterns for example would have left and right socks, worked slightly differently.

  53. Gillian Coyle permalink
    November 26, 2015 3:48 pm

    Hi, I’m knitting my first pair of socks using this pattern and have been loving it! I totally had heel turn fear, but you’ve eradicated it, thank you.

    However, I am having trouble making sense of the instructions for the toe decreases.

    “k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts *before marker*, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 (4 sts decreased)”

    Which marker? I only have a marker at the new BOR, as per the previous step. Do you mean the optional markers before and after the garter panel? That doesn’t seem right to me, as there are now only 5 stitches between BOR and the garter panel (large adult size), which would make it impossible to k1, ssk and still have three stitches before the marker.

    Please help, I’m so confused!

    • December 14, 2015 12:08 am

      Hi Gillian – so glad you have decided to tackle socks! The markers were placed (PM) during the gusset pick up. They are at either side of the top of the foot.

  54. Lori permalink
    November 16, 2015 10:00 am

    I love this pattern and the detailed instructions are wonderful for a new sock knitter, like myself. I am working on my first pair using DPN’s (toddler size) and I have found once I have picked up the appropriate number of stitches and move the knit row, I am on the WS, so it is like I am inside out and I end up having to purl to keep the stockinette stitch in the RS (outside of sock). essentially for it to come out right I end up purling the knits and knitting the purls, I thought the first sock was just an error on my part. SO second sock I really paid more attention to be sure I wasn’t missing something and the same thing has happened. Any insight into what I may be doing to get mixed up like this?

    • November 17, 2015 10:28 am

      Hi Lori – do you mean after you have picked up sts for the gusset? You wans to make sure you are joining up with the heel sts to continue working in the round. The only part of a sock that is worked on the wrong side is the heel flap and heel turn.

    • Mack permalink
      March 4, 2016 8:04 am

      I believe your problem is when you finished your heel flap and/or heel turn. If you did not end up on the Right Side (RS) of the sock before picking up your heel flap stitches you would be working like the sock was inside out. Make sure when you finish your heel flap/heel turn that you are on the RS of the sock. If not, do one more row for the heel flap to be on the RS of the sock. Hope this helps and good luck. ~~Mack

  55. Knitsy permalink
    August 26, 2015 1:08 pm

    I’ve been muddling along with magic loop on this tutorial but I’ve reached the point where I’ve picked up the second set of slipped stitches but I’m really confused about which stitches go on which half of the loop now as the pictures are only good for DPNs…

    • August 28, 2015 10:55 pm

      Hi – it doesn’t really matter which stitches go on which half for magic loop, you will have markers where you need them.

  56. Tali permalink
    June 11, 2015 5:55 pm

    I can not for the life of me figure out the decreasing toe part. I end up ssk and k2tog 3 times in a row and then all the way at the “end” of the round! This is very confusing :( I am using the magic loop method and this is my 1st sock, making it in child’s size. Is there something I’m missing? I moved the beginning of the round 9 sts, and follow pattern as written, but it’s all wrong… I’m not experienced at socks enough to figure it out.

    • June 12, 2015 3:31 pm

      Hi Tali – sorry to hear you are having troubles! The instructions do work as written. What is it that is confusing? I’m not sure how to help clear it up…

      • Tali permalink
        June 23, 2015 1:47 pm

        I’m pretty sure this is a user error… it is specifically when you have to move the BOR… i think I messed it up. Seeing the diagram on this blog makes more sense. I will knit the 2nd one and let you know how it goes!

      • June 30, 2015 4:25 am

        Good Luck!

  57. Sara permalink
    May 20, 2015 4:09 pm

    I have enjoyed this pattern so much, until… Oh my! I put this down at the wrong time and dropped my stitch markers (and stitches!). I recovered the stitches, but not the markers. I’m JUST about to decrease at the toe on a small adult sock. Can you tell me where the BOR should be in relation to the garter stitch? Does this make sense? Would sure appreciate the help.

    • May 26, 2015 2:00 pm

      Hi Sara – the BOR at the start of the toe will be at the side of the foot. Divide your number stitches in 1/2 and the garter panel should be smack in the middle of the top of foot

  58. March 17, 2015 8:58 am

    Thank you so much!!! I am a new knitter, Male but I like to give gifts too my family. I love that I can make so many of your new free patterns for anyone and have fun learning!

  59. February 25, 2015 1:28 pm

    I am knitting my first ever pair of socks and you have made it a dream with your very clear tutorial it was recommended to me over on Ravelry

  60. Clare permalink
    February 24, 2015 9:41 am

    Hi I’ve really enjoyed knitting my first sock but I’m confused when it comes to the toe section. I’m knitting the largest size with the magic loop method & I don’t have a BOR marker & so I’m not sure where the decreases should be? Could you tell me how many stitches from the garter stitch panel they should be? Your tutorial is very clear apart from this bit…please help! Many thanks :))

  61. Deborah permalink
    February 16, 2015 10:30 pm

    Love your tutorial and this sock pattern. Tried socks with a different beginners pattern last year. Finished the socks but not without a great deal of confusion and frogging! This “rye”pattern is great and I am recommending it to my knitting group! Thank you…….

  62. Ann Kinderknecht permalink
    January 24, 2015 1:12 pm

    I like the pattern and finished my first pair…! How could I adapt this to use sock yarn? I made a size small for myself…thank you…the second sock looks better :)

    • January 28, 2015 8:58 am

      Hi Ann – Congratulations on finishing your socks! If you wanted to make a sock-weight version, I would suggest casting on 60 sts for an adult size, and working a garter stitch panel of 18 stitches. Then you’d work the heel over 30 sts. But the pattern doesn’t have instructions for that size a heel, so you’d want to follow a pattern that does… if you worked the heel over 32 sts, you could use the instructions from the Monkey Sock Pattern (it’s an excellent design if you want to try a lace sock…) It’s a free pattern on Knitty.com : http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTmonkey.html

      • Ann Kinderknecht permalink
        February 11, 2015 12:51 pm

        Thank you….am doing my second sock now but doubled sock yarn and made size medium….still need your notes:).

  63. Vivian permalink
    January 11, 2015 8:16 pm

    I’ve started knitting socks and I really want to try this pattern but I only have #4 and #6 needles. Will those work for making kids socks?

    • January 12, 2015 6:26 pm

      You might want to work the size down, since knitting is pretty stretchy and they will come out a bit big on those needles.

    • Kayla Mayfield permalink
      February 15, 2016 9:52 am

      I know I’m a year late to your comment, but I ran into the exact same problem, and so i decided to go ahead with #4 for the rib and #6 for the body. I was also using DK (#3) yarn – which is smaller than in the pattern. I don’t recommend going by the pattern sized on this if you’re going to be making “adjustments” for needle/yarn size. I made the sock using the Large adult size because I was making it for a man with size, 12-13 feet. So I didn’t think I could possibly make it too large. But I was wrong. It does not fit like it should. If you’ve not done so already, I recommend getting the right size needles (trust me) and also do a gauge swatch so you can make it the right size. Also, remember that the socks are stretchy so its okay if its a little smaller, but you can’t (or at least I couldn’t with my 50/50 acryllic/wool yarn) make it fitted if its too big. At least, I’ve learned something new in the 8 hours I spent on these socks. Best of luck!

  64. Linda Cividino permalink
    January 6, 2015 3:52 pm

    Question: re: Toe decrease: In Round 1 you state K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before marker, K2tog, K2. How can you K2tog, then Knit another 2 if there are only 3 stitches left before the marker?

    • January 12, 2015 6:30 pm

      You are always slipping the marker as you come to it so you will be working a k2tog, knitting 1, slipping your marker, knitting 1, then ssk etc.

  65. October 3, 2014 9:51 pm

    does ‘rye’ exist with toe-up directions too?

    • October 17, 2014 2:43 pm

      We were keeping it simple with just the top down version, but will take your suggestion under advisement!

      • Eva permalink
        February 5, 2015 2:11 pm

        I’d like to second this request. I’m just learning socks and would love to try both styles. :)

    • Ann Kinderknecht permalink
      January 26, 2015 11:49 am

      Would love to also try toe up….new to socks and want to see which one I like better

  66. Erin permalink
    July 31, 2014 9:54 am

    Do you block your socks with pins or just lay flat? Thanks!

  67. Janelle permalink
    July 7, 2014 3:52 pm

    At the gusset and foot section, it says to pick up and knit 12 (in my case) stitches and knit 7, but where are those 7 supposed to come from? I have 7 that could be picked up in order to meet the stitches where I began, but am I supposed to ignore them?

  68. June 27, 2014 6:00 pm

    When will the detailed sox pdf be available?

  69. June 27, 2014 7:05 am

    When will your detailed pdf handout be available?

    I’m a newbie, and have somewhat successfully created one (albeit mildly deformed!) sock. Eagerly beginning its mate.

    Don’t always have access to a computer so a printed handout would be helpful.

    Love your informative site; the tutorials are fabulous and easy to follow. Many thanks!

  70. mcarmickle permalink
    June 22, 2014 8:31 pm

    I am having a very difficult time with the gusset & foot section. I am using the magic loop section technique. I have looked at the printed tutorial but it isn’t showing magic loop. Do you have an online video of this section with the magic loop? I will really appreciate your help!

  71. Debby permalink
    May 5, 2014 9:15 am

    I am so excited I found your blog! Well done…. *jumping for joy in my new socks*

  72. Barb permalink
    February 8, 2014 7:56 pm

    My question is about determining size. When I measure for the cuff, about 6 inches abode my ankle, I get 10 inches which is bigger than a large. I am not a heavy person. I typically wear a size 9.5 U.S.
    Also, what cast on is good to use for this sock?
    Thanks

    • February 11, 2014 8:34 pm

      Hi Barb
      I would use a stretchy cast on, like a long tail. You probably want to knit a medium, remember knitting is really really stretchy!

  73. Lea permalink
    February 6, 2014 2:36 pm

    Thank you for this tutorial !
    I’m a beginner and i have almost finished my first sock :)

    But i have a problem, i have to make the toe parts and i have lost my BOR and PM, so i can’t follow this step.
    Could i please have some information to find their positions?

    Thanks again!

    • February 11, 2014 8:34 pm

      The BOR for the toe decreases is at the side of the foot, you should be able to find this by looking at the heel.

  74. mdneal permalink
    December 10, 2013 6:53 am

    This is my first “go” at sock-knitting. I’m working on the cuff and it appears inside out. Did I make a mistake?

    • December 11, 2013 5:12 pm

      I doubt you’ve made a mistake! Try flipping it the other way, and you may find it’s really the right way out. Hope this helps, and let me know if it still is not coming out right!

      • mdneal permalink
        December 16, 2013 8:11 pm

        Yay! I’m good now, thanks!

  75. Kara permalink
    November 7, 2013 4:26 pm

    Hello I’ve just started this as my first sock pattern. I’m using magic loop and have a question about knitting on round 1 and 2 to my reasoning a round would be knitting both needles until in my particular example the cxast on tail is at right (starting point) but the pictures of the pattern show only one side with the garter stitch only on one side. Does this then mean that only one side of my tube should contain the garter and the other side should just be knitted?

    thanks!

    • November 7, 2013 10:14 pm

      Hi Kara

      Yep, the garter panel is only on the ‘top’ of the sock (only on one side). Whether you are using magic loop or DPN’s a round is a round, it starts at your beginning of round marker and ends back at that same marker.

  76. November 1, 2013 3:11 pm

    I am loving your rye sock pattern! First of all Rye is special to me because I got married at Rye Beach, NH and every summer we travel there and spend time with my inlaws and now my four year old son. I do have a question though I get stuck everytime ( working on DPN’s) when I get the toe section. First what exactly is needle one? Do I start knitting on the two/ three stitches before pattern design then use those markers? Then start the K1, ssk, before the marker design? I am just a bit confused, this is the only issue I have had with this pattern. Yipeee! I can’t wait to do mittens, and your simple sweater! Thank You this has been such a nice, enjoyable experience with no cussing or throwing my needles across the room :-)

    • Bett Weiss permalink
      August 24, 2014 12:36 pm

      I have been trying and trying and trying to knit my first sock, but cannot seem to rejoin the yarn in the round after turning the heel. I’m confused about “how many and which stitches go on what needles”. Could you please explain the gusset & foot part where you pick up and knit the 8 stitches, work in pattern, pick up and knit the other side with 8 stitches, and then k4 to mark the new beginning of the round. Does that mean that the picked up stitches are on the first needle, the stitches across the top of the foot are on the second needle, and the second set of picked up stitches along with the next 4 stitches are on the 3rd needle?

      • August 24, 2014 2:35 pm

        Hi Bett

        I like to distribute my stitches by keeping 1/2 the heel sts and the first set of picked up stitches on my first needle, the stitches for the top of the foot on the second needle, and the picked up sts and the other 1/2 of the heel sts on the third needle. That way I can treat the ends of my needles as markers and don’t need to place a marker (the BOR is in the middle of the heel sts).

      • MAGALI permalink
        May 18, 2019 11:21 am

        Hello I have one question
        When we make the swatch at the really beginning which needle is it supposed to match ? Us #1 or us#2 ?? I’m a bit lost 😅

      • May 21, 2019 12:44 pm

        Hi – I would say, rather than a swatch you want to just cast on and once you get a few inches into the leg, measure your gauge. If it’s too loose or tight you can rip back to the ribbing, but if your gauge is good you can keep going! But to answer your question, gauge is on the larger needles, the #2

  77. Patricia permalink
    October 24, 2013 5:14 am

    Thank you ,thank you.the tutorials are very good. I just finish a sock, very happy that at last I knit a sock. Thanks a million

  78. brittanywelsh permalink
    October 18, 2013 4:00 am

    Thanks, this is great! Loving this pattern. The tutorials are all really helpful — I will be referring people here in the future!

    One confusion I have — when knitting the heel turn, at the end it says “Knit across the heel stitches.” I’m not sure what this means – complete the “ending” row with knits? Do I add another row of knits? This is confusing to a beginner.

    • October 23, 2013 11:35 am

      This means that after you have completed the heel turn, you will knit across the remaining heel stitches (knit all the stitches). Then you are in position to pick up stitches along the side of the heel flap, with the RS (right side) of the work facing you. Hope this helps!

      • brittanywelsh permalink
        October 27, 2013 12:22 pm

        Makes sense — thanks for the reply! Socks are challenging, but this tutorial makes them more accessible :)

  79. October 3, 2013 10:41 am

    I love this simple but classic sock pattern. Thanks for sharing and the tuturial.

  80. October 3, 2013 7:10 am

    Absolutely fabulous tutorial! I’m about to start a pair of socks and this really helped lay it all out for me. Thank you!

    • Linea Miller permalink
      July 27, 2016 1:10 am

      Hi how do you go from the toe up thanks.

      • July 27, 2016 12:13 pm

        Hi Linea – we don’t yet have a toe up sock pattern or tutorial, sorry!

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