There is nothing like a nice pair of warm mittens for fall. Leaves are falling off the trees, the rain is pouring and the winds are blowing: time for some new woolies! The Maize mitts can be knit as either fingerless mitts or full mittens. Let’s see how it’s done!
8 steps to knit the Maize mitts
- Casting on
- Working in pattern
- Placing stitches on hold on waste yarn
- Pattern: Download a copy of the free Maize pattern.
Check out our tutorial here if reading a multi-size knitting pattern is new to you.
- Yarn: for the Maize fingerless mitts you will need 50 (60, 80, 100, 140) yards worsted / aran weight yarn. For the full mittens you will need 70 (80, 120, 150, 200) yards worsted / aran weight yarn. For more information on yarns see our post on yarns here.
- Needles: For the Maize mitts you can use either double pointed needles (DPNs) or a long circular needle for the magic loop method. For more information on knitting needles check out our needle post here.
Following the directions for your size cast on 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) stitches onto 4mm / US #6 needles. For tips on casting on using DPNs check out our tutorial here. For casting on with the magic loop method see this tutorial.
Once you’ve got all your stitches cast on you will have to note the beginning of round (BOR). You can do this by placing a marker, placing a locking marker, or distributing your stitches in a certain way. For more info on how to use markers check out our marker tutorial here.
Tip: if you are using DPNs you can’t really place a marker at the beginning of a round, it would just fall off the end of the needle. I recommend distributing your stitches with about 1/2 your stitches on the first needle, and 1/4 of your stitches on the other 2 needles. This way you always know the start of the round is at the start of the ‘full’ needle.
Establish ribbing: p1, k3, (p1, k1) to end
Work a total of 12 (12, 14, 16, 18) rounds in ribbing as set.
What does it mean to work as set? There are a few different ways to put this: One way is that you are ‘knitting your knits and purling your purls’. If you see a knit stitch, knit it, if you see a purl stitch, purl it. For this particular ribbing, you are simply repeating the ribbing round.
Setup pattern: p1, k3, PM, purl 7 (9, 11, 11, 13), [k1, p1] 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) times, k1, purl to end
So you have just set up your pattern! The body of your mitten will proceed as follows: the stitches before the marker (p1, k3) will become your thumb gusset, you will be keeping the ribbed section as set (the k1, p1 part) and purling all the rest of your stitches.
Tip: If you are working with double points you may want to distribute your stitches as follows, to keep things simple.
Work 2 (2, 3, 3, 5) more rounds in pattern.
What does work in pattern mean?!
It may seem like it would be simpler if we just wrote patterns out line by line, but I assure you, knitting becomes MUCH easier when you can ‘read’ your knitting. If you know what should come next it’s easier to find mistakes (they happen to the best of us!) and even see if *gasp* there is a mistake in a pattern. I always tell my beginner classes that if you can understand what you are doing it is a LOT easier than using 3 row counters, a pen, and 5 sticky notes!
So, to work in pattern at this stage of the mitten you are going to knit the knits and purl the purls. Keeping the ribbing in tact, the 3 knit stitches at the start in stockinette, and purling the rest of the stitches, keeping them in reverse stockinette.
Take a quick look at your hand. Your thumb sort of sticks out a bit right? Even the part of your thumb that is still a part of your hand. Well we have to make an extra little triangle of fabric to accommodate that part of your thumb.
To create this triangle of fabric we are going to work some increases. You can use whichever type of m1 stitch you like, but we’ve used this type of make 1. To be a little extra fancy we used paired increases, a m1L and m1R (make 1 left and make 1 right).
Remember those 3 knit stitches at the beginning of the round? The gusset is going to increase from those 3 knit stitches.
Round 1: p1, k1, m1, k1, m1, k1, SM, work in pattern to end
I worked this row like this: p1, k1, m1L, k1, m1R, k1, slip marker, work in pattern to end (this means we are purling, ribbing, purling)
Round 2: p1, knit to marker, SM, work in pattern to end (no stitches increased)
Round 3: p1, k1, m1, knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1, k1, SM, work in pattern to end
Round 4: p1, knit to marker, slip marker, work in pattern to end (no stitches increased)
See a pattern forming? We are increasing 2 stitches every other row and you should start to see a little triangle forming.
Work rounds 3-4 a total of 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) times. This is 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) rounds.
There are 12 (12, 14, 14, 16) sts between the BOR marker and the second marker (there will be 1 purl stitch and 11, 11, 13, 13, 15 knit stitches). [32 (36, 42, 46, 52) total sts]
Placing stitches on hold on waste yarn
Next round: p1, place the next 11 (11, 13, 13, 15) sts on waste yarn, remove 2nd marker, cast on 3 sts using backwards loop method. Work in pattern to end of round. [24 (28, 32, 36, 40) sts]
Next we are going to cast on 3 stitches in the middle of the row. Why, you ask? Because the thumb stitches ‘grew’ out of those 3 knit stitches, but then we put all the thumb stitches on hold. So we are going to need 3 new stitches to take their place. The cast on method we use is the backward loop cast-on.
For fingerless mitts:
Round 1: p11 (13, 15, 15, 17), [k1, p1] 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) times, k1, purl to end
Work round 1 until work measures 0.5 (0.5, 1, 1.25, 1.5)” from end of gusset.
Set-up ribbing: (p1, k1) around
Work 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) more rounds in ribbing as established, then bind off all sts.
For the hand you are keeping the ribbing as established and purling all other stitches. Once your mitt measures 0.5 (0.5, 1, 1.25, 1.5)” from the gusset you are going to switch to ribbing and bind off. You can work a regular bind off, or you can try binding off in pattern here. Check out our tutorial on binding off in pattern (with videos!) here.
Round 1: p11 (13, 15, 15, 17), [k1, p1] 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) times, k1, purl to end
Work round 1 until work measures 2.5 (3, 3.75, 4, 4.5)” from end of gusset [or 1 (1, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5)” short of total desired length].
For the hand you are keeping the ribbing as established and purling all other stitches. Once your mitt measures 2.5 (3, 3.75, 4, 4.5)” from the gusset you ready to start the decreases! First we have to move the marker a little to get ready.
Next: remove BOR marker, purl 2 sts and replace marker. This is the new BOR.
Now we are all set for some decreases.
Decrease set-up: p1, p2tog, p4 (6, 8, 8, 10), p2tog, PM, work 7 (7, 7, 11, 11) sts in ribbing as set, PM, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog [4 sts dec] [20 (24, 28, 32, 36) sts]
You will have placed 2 markers and decreased 4 stitches. If p2tog (purl 2 stitches together) is new to you check out our p2tog tutorial here. Note that none of the ribbed stitches have been decreased yet, only the purl stitches.
Work the decreases as follows (if k2tog is new to you check out our tutorial here).
Round 1: purl to marker, SM, work in pattern to marker, SM, purl to end
Round 2: p1, p2tog, purl to 2 sts before marker, p2tog, SM, work in pattern to marker, SM, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog [4 sts dec]
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 1 (2, 3, 3, 4) times. [16 (16, 16, 20, 20) sts]
Next round: p1, (p2tog) twice, k1, (k2tog) 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) times, (p2tog) twice [9 (9, 9, 11, 11) sts]
Once you are down to 9 (9, 9, 11, 11) stitches, break yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail. Thread tail through remaining live sts (removing markers) and pull tight to close top of mitten.
Next we are going to knit the tiny little tube for the thumb.
- Place 11 (11, 13, 13, 15) held sts back on needles, then remove the waste yarn.
- Pick up and knit 3 stitches from those 3 stitches you cast on earlier.
- Knit around held stitches to end of round and place marker. [14 (14, 16, 16, 18) sts]
Pick up and knit 3 sts in the cast-on sts.
Knit around held sts to end of round. PM [14 (14, 16, 16, 18) sts]
You now have all your thumb stitches on your needles.
For fingerless mitts: knit all rounds until thumb measures 0.5 (0.5, 0.75, 1, 1)”. Bind off.
For mittens: knit all rounds until thumb measures 1 (1.5, 1.5, 1.75, 2)”, or 0.25″ short of desired length.
Decrease round: k2tog around [6 (6, 7, 7, 8) sts]
Break yarn, leaving 6 inch tail. Thread tail through remaining live stitches and pull tight to close thumb.
You may have a small hole where your stitches are picked up. Just use your yarn tail and stitch up the hole before weaving in your ends.
That’s it, you’re all done – weave in your ends and block your mittens. Oh…and knit the second mitten. Because these mitts are reversible the second mitt is the same as the first.
This tutorial is part of The Simple Collection – our 100% free learn-to-knit series. Check out the fabulous free patterns sized from baby to big, and get started making modern seamless knits for the entire family!
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Hannah Joyce Corwin
February 23, 2022 @ 2:16 pm
Hello! I love this pattern, but I have a lot of fingering wool left over from another project. Is there a tutorial I can use to adjust this pattern for the lighter wool?
February 23, 2022 @ 7:33 pm
You might want to check out The World’s Simplest Mittens, it’s written for 3 weights. https://tincanknits.com/pattern/the-worlds-simplest-mittens
January 9, 2021 @ 7:24 am
Thank you for providing this tutorial. Under Sizing, the pattern says “Fits hand ## inches around”. Is that around the hand including or excluding the thumb? Thanks in advance.
January 11, 2021 @ 6:18 am
That’s the measurement of the hand around at the palm, above the thumb (excluding the thumb).
December 7, 2020 @ 4:42 am
Hi, thanks for the very nice free pattern! I am making the fingerless mitts for my almost 4 year-old granddaughter, size toddler.
First I did not understand that the p1, k 3 of the setup ribbing should be maintained for the whole ribbing part. So I just frogged the first rows, and am going to start again, but now I have another question : is this only the beginning of the mitts or valid for the fingerless mitts as well?
I do not understand ‘Hand: Work as est. in reverse stockinette and ribbing pattern (PURL the 3 CO its at the start of the round), I cannot find the info where to switch to purling those 3 sts.
Thank you again!
December 8, 2020 @ 6:08 am
First – Both mittens and fingerless mittens are worked the same up until the end.
Second – after placing stitches on hold for the thumb, you will cast on 3 sts, then work in pattern as established (knitting the knits, and purling the purls) to end of round. On the rounds following this, those 3 sts which were cast on will be purled.
Hope this helps! Em
December 14, 2020 @ 9:34 am
It certainly does! Thanks for the patient comment, I realize it was a rather dumb question. I am now going to pick up+knit the thumb stitches, quite a job for such small hands (and with dpn’s!).
Wish you all at Tin Can Knits a merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year!
September 6, 2020 @ 3:03 am
Hello. I am knitting mittens for the first time and I’m really stuck on the thumb section, where it says ‘Pick up and knit 3 sts in the cast-on sts,’. I have read through the previous comments and found the same question but I still don’t get it. In the break down with the photos, you show insert the needle into the stitch, wrap the yarn around, then pull the loop through the stitch. The photo shows one ‘stitch’/’loop’ on the needle, then the next photo shows 3 saying ‘3 stitches have been picked up’. How do get from the photo with with one to the photo with the 3. After I pull the loop through the stitch there is only 1 then on the needle, do you have to do the whole process of inserting the needle into stitch, wrapping yarn and pulling through, 3 times, or is there something else I’m missing?
Thanks so much for your help!
September 7, 2020 @ 3:39 am
Yes – you have to ‘pick up and knit’ three stitches in total, not just one. So you do the whole process of inserting your needle, wrapping around with working yarn at the back, and pulling a stitch through a total of 3 times, so there’ll be 3 NEW stitches. Hope this helps!
May 31, 2020 @ 3:22 pm
I finished my first pair, (thank you!) and want to knit another for my sister. I find the cuff to be very loose, or at least looser than I would like. I know ribbing is stretchier, but before I knitted another pair, I was wondering if using a smaller needle for the cuff would help and then switching to size 6 DPN for the rest. Thoughts?
May 31, 2020 @ 11:16 pm
Absolutely – you can make your cuffs tighter by using a smaller needle, or working on a few less stitches, then increasing on the first pattern round (I’d suggest adding the extra stitches in the reverse-stockinette sections if you do that). Enjoy! ~ Emily
May 9, 2020 @ 5:45 am
Hello, this is my first pair of mittens and and time to your site that was recommended by my local knitting shop. I can see why people think mittens are a quick weekend project! I am starting the thumb gusset. On the tutorial you table about the M1 being M1L and M1R, but the pattern just says M1. I have to assume the the first is M1L and the 2nd in the round is M1R on rounds 1 and 3. Can you confirm and is there a reason this isn’t written on the PDF?
May 11, 2020 @ 12:54 pm
Hi Heather – Different knitters prefer different orders of m1, I use an m1R then an m1L, but other knitters prefer it the opposite way, or prefer a different type of m1 altogether. No matter which one you use you will get a mitten!
May 15, 2020 @ 6:56 pm
Thanks so much! I also it seems that my count is off. I am making the medium mittens. I am on the thumb gusset section and have knit rounds 1 – 4 and 3-4 2 additional times. I counted the stitches and am already at 46 stitches (with 14 between BOR and the marker) and 28 rows. Rereading the pattern I should be at 30 rows (16 ribbing + 4 setup + 10 gusset). If I complete rounds 3-4 one more time as indicated, that would put me at 48 stitches. I have been marking and counting my rounds so did start with 36 stitches at the end of the set-up pattern. If I decide to add the additional 2 rows and then have 48 stitches, how many sts should I place on the waste yarn? I hands are skinny but long. Is there anything else I would need to modify or is stopping 2 rows short the best to continue the pattern as indicated?
May 19, 2020 @ 3:51 pm
Hi Heather – The instruction is Repeat rounds 3-4 two (2, 3, 3, 4) more times so you will have worked rows 3-4 a total of 4 times and there will be 14 sts between the markers and 32 sts outside of the markers. I think stopping 2 rows short is the answer.
April 27, 2020 @ 2:33 pm
Is it enough to weave in my 6 inch tail at the top of the mitten? I am so nervous about not tying it somehow. It’s a gift and I don’t want to get back a long wavy string after grandma wears them once. Help?
April 27, 2020 @ 11:02 pm
Hi Katherine – I usually tie it, but Emily doesn’t so I don’t think anything bad will happen either way!
November 15, 2019 @ 2:30 pm
I’m wanting to make the spruce globes, but I would like to make a little of in the thumb and pointer finger so that I can pop my thumb and finger out to use my phone, while keeping the glove on. Any advice on how to do this?
November 19, 2019 @ 8:46 pm
Hi Allison – I’m not sure which mittens those are, but you would want to knit a ‘fingerless’ thumb and then pick up and knit a ‘cap’ for it
November 14, 2019 @ 7:58 pm
Just started last night. I’m confused . What is the difference between the set up ribbing and the pattern ? I did the set up ribbing. Where do I go from here? Also what is reverse stockinette? Is that just purling?
November 19, 2019 @ 8:50 pm
Hi Lori – in the ribbing section you have a chunk of ‘k1, p1’ while in the pattern set up it’s purling.
October 31, 2019 @ 9:21 am
I don’t really understand the part where it says to add on 3 stitches for the thumb. Is there a video? I’m not understanding the written instructions as they are.
November 1, 2019 @ 9:29 am
Hi Melanie – When you finished doing the thumb gusset and put those sts on waste you will have cast on 3 sts. Then you will have gone on to knit the hand of the mitten. It’s those 3 sts that you pick up from when you do the thumb. Does that help?
June 7, 2019 @ 7:19 pm
Is there any way to knit these flat? The magic loop is not producing the uniform stitches I prefer. I am out of the country right now, and don’t have access to DPNs, even if I had the technique for them. Please help!
June 10, 2019 @ 1:41 am
No – these mittens are designed to be knit in the round, so there isn’t a way to knit them flat. You might wan to take a look on Ravelry.com for mitten patterns that are seamed, you’ll probably find something that works for you.
March 26, 2019 @ 7:08 am
After a long search for a easy to follow first mitten pattern, I found these. Thank you!
March 3, 2019 @ 5:35 am
Thanks for all these great beginner patterns and instructions!
I have a question about the ribbing, in the instruction it says: “Ribbing: p1, k3, (p1, k1) to end”
What does the part in between brackets mean?
March 3, 2019 @ 10:51 am
Hi Amy: it means you are going to repeat the instructions in the brackets, so you are going to p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, etc
March 4, 2019 @ 3:01 am
Thank you so much!
January 19, 2019 @ 3:07 pm
Great instructions! Easy to follow ,can’t wait to make more . Thanks!!!!
January 18, 2019 @ 3:52 pm
Any tutorials on how to join magic loop starting with purl? Everything I’ve found joins with a knit stitch!
October 13, 2018 @ 10:02 pm
Directions say ‘work for 3.75 inches from the end of gusset’
Where is the end of the gusset? Where is that spot located on your hand/ mitten?
October 14, 2018 @ 11:53 am
Hi – that’s where you placed your thumb sts on hold and cast on 1 stitch
October 13, 2018 @ 5:07 pm
I’ve never know mittens before and did the fingerless. These instructions are amazing and so easy to follow! Thank you for sharing!!! My mom will love them for Christmas and now I can work on a pair for myself!!
October 10, 2018 @ 7:05 pm
Help please!!!😆 I’m am fairly a new knitter and I’m loving the pattern and working on the mittens. They are being done two at a time on magic loop. My concern is that it seems that I’m making two right hand gloves. So far, I have not seen where the pattern distinguishes between the right and left hand. Clarification is needed. Thank you 😊.
October 11, 2018 @ 2:31 am
Hello! The mittens are symmetrical (the front and the back are the same) so they work on either hand. Enjoy!
August 9, 2018 @ 2:59 pm
I am having trouble with the thumb gusset section, row 3. At the end of row 3, is says to m1 (I am doing m1r) then k1. This is causing the purl section to look odd at the edge. Not sure if I am doing something wrong. Why is it not a p1 after the m1? Is the last stitch supposed to be part of the gusset?
August 10, 2018 @ 10:07 am
You should have 2 markers in your work (the BOR marker and the second marker placed in the Setup pattern row.The gusset comes between the BOR marker and the second marker. Does that help?
August 10, 2018 @ 10:27 am
Yes! I just realized after re-reading for the tenth time that I had misread the directions and was doing the m1 at end of row instead of before the marker! I can’t believe it. Thank you!!
Christi Lee Osterday
July 16, 2018 @ 6:31 am
Thanks for this! Don’t know if you’re still responding to this in 2018, but I’m having trouble with each increased stitch creating a large hole in the thumb gusset. I’ve made 3 pairs with 2 different yarns, and the result is the same. It almost looks lacy, which is cool, but not great for warmth. Help?
July 17, 2018 @ 11:14 am
It sounds like maybe you are doing your m1’s by knitting them the wrong way? When you put the bar on the need you need to knit it through the way that is more difficult (either through the front or back loop depending on the type of m1 you are doing). Does that sound right?
May 30, 2018 @ 7:59 pm
I tried the magic loop. First time ever to do this and I don’t know which side the pattern is for, both sides, or going as knitting in the round? Your instructions only show using this pattern with DPNs. I have no idea what I’m doing. Is the set up pattern going around the entire bothe sides or only one?
June 2, 2018 @ 7:10 am
Hi Amanda – you need to know where the beginning of the round ease. Each instruction is for one complete round, does that help?
December 4, 2017 @ 7:19 pm
I love your patterns, your charitable works and your wonderful instructions to inspire all levels of knitters. Thank you, for keeping my knitting addiction going!
December 1, 2017 @ 4:45 pm
This is my first attempt at knitting mittens/gloves on DPN’s. I’m a little bit confused about the first instruction ( I know…not a good sign ;). What do you mean by: p1, k3, (p1, k1) to end – does that mean that for the children’s size I purl one, knit one to the end and for the adult sizes I purl 1, knit 1 to the end?
December 3, 2017 @ 5:54 pm
Hi Laura – For that instructions you are going to p1, k3, then you are going to (p1, k1) to the end (aka. p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 , k1…..)
November 8, 2017 @ 10:34 am
First of all thank you for the The World’s Simplest Mittens pattern. My problem is gauge with the mittens. I worked a test swatch (in the round) and had the requisite 5 sts/inch (using worsted weight, Cascade 220), yet once I started to knit the cuff and the hand, I felt that the mitten was very narrow. Is this normal?
November 8, 2017 @ 11:22 am
Hi Karen – if you try on the mitten and it’s too tight for you you can always go up a size. It might just be a matter of preference. I like a nice tight cuff.
October 17, 2016 @ 4:09 pm
I’ve read and followed the pattern to a tee and regardless of what I do (tighten my tension or slightly loosen, make sure first purl stitch it close to the last st at the end of the round on my previous dpn, etc( but I still keep ending up with a ladder wherever I have to purl the first stitch on the next needle. Do you know what might help to avoid this? Thank you!!
October 19, 2016 @ 9:35 am
Hi Cherise – perhaps try magic loop? Ladders should be fixed by pulling the first stitch on the needle a little extra tightly. You could also re-distribute your stitches so the first stitch on each needle is a knit, instead of a purl. Just put a marker at the beginning of the round.
October 1, 2017 @ 12:13 pm
When you’re knitting on DPNs, tighten the SECOND stitch at the beginning of each needle, not the first. No ladders! [Well, you can also tighten the first if you like, but the second is the one that locks it in.]
(All credit to the inimitable Cat Bordhi.)
October 3, 2017 @ 8:30 pm
Well, if Cat says it it must be true! Thanks for the solid advice!
October 3, 2016 @ 10:51 am
What size do I need to knit for mittens with thumb for a 2 year old ?
October 4, 2016 @ 6:33 pm
Hi Michelle – the littlest size, toddler
September 14, 2016 @ 10:21 pm
Absolutely, positively, hands down, THE BEST TUTORIAL I have ever tried.
I thank you from the bottom of my needles!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not to mention, my heart :)
August 19, 2016 @ 10:40 am
This is quite possibly the best, easiest, most helpful tutorial and pattern I have ever used. I struggled through three patterns before I found Maize Mittens pattern and this tutorial. I was defeated and discouraged, but this pattern and tutorial showed me EXACTLY what my work was supposed to look like as well as explaining WHY. Thank you so much!! I can’t wait to make more mittens!
February 28, 2016 @ 11:54 am
Made the first fingerless mitt, only found these detailed instructions later. It came out fine although I may have fudged some of the numbers. Only hope I can fudge again for the second one to come out the same!
January 2, 2016 @ 10:45 pm
OK, don’t know if it’s because this is my first time knitting mittens or if I’m just not connecting the dots, but it seems like there’s a chunk of decrease instructions missing from the tutorial that are in the pattern.
The tutorial makes it sound like you should leave the ribbing needle alone (‘note that none of the ribbed stitches have been decreased, only the purl stitches ‘), while you decrease the two purl needles, but that doesn’t make sense when you say you should end up with 11 total stitches. I went back to the pattern in my confusion and saw that you say how to decrease the ribbing and that there’s a normal purl/pattern row in between decreases. Which would explain why my purl decrease edge is so sharp.
Also, in between my purl needles during the decrease is a pretty big gap, I’m guessing from decreasing so quick?
One other thing that might bear mentioning is to make sure to pull the first stitch every time you move to the next needle really tight – I learned that the hard way with a loose row in between my ribbing to purl needle for most of my mitten :/
I’ll probably just scrap this mitten and start over- I love this pattern and all your designs are so gorgeous, I’m excited to try them all :)
November 23, 2015 @ 11:32 am
Not sure if anybody noticed but there is a different number of cast on stitches for the large mittens, printed out pattern says 40 stitches and this tutorial has the large with 42 stitches. I started the mittens with 40 stitches, and I am wondering how off I am now. Any suggestions on that?
November 23, 2015 @ 8:26 pm
It seems no one did notice, including us! The pattern was corrected, but the tutorial was not. They are both correct now, thanks for letting us know!
October 28, 2015 @ 5:15 pm
Newish knitter here and reading the PDF pattern after I setup pattern “p1, k3,PM, purl 11 (in my case) [k1,p1]x5, k1, p 10 (as I have 36 total stitches. Is working more round in pattern the same as this or like you state above in the tutorial. k those 3 stitches and purl the remaining 35?
October 29, 2015 @ 9:11 am
So I think you are missing the instruction in the tutorial to knit the gusset sts, keep the ribbing section as set and purl all other sts.
December 14, 2016 @ 2:26 pm
Decrease in mittens (hand) – it appears we are decreasing 4 stitches in each row till there are 11 stitches left – in the size I have chosen. Should the 7 stitches of the rib pattern be left alone – not included in the decrease at all ?? Please help.
December 14, 2016 @ 2:48 pm
Hi – you need to refer to the patter for the exact decrease method. It starts without the ribbing but the final rounds decrease the ribbing as well.
October 18, 2015 @ 6:11 am
I really appreciate how detailed this tutorial is. This is the most complicated thing I’ve tried knitting and it seemed a little daunting at first, but now I feel like I’ll be able to complete these in a timely manner. Thanks!!
October 14, 2015 @ 10:19 am
I am stuck at the part after removing the thumb stitches and continuing with the mitten. In your instructions, you say to “Work as established in reverse
stockinette stitch and ribbing pattern (purl the 3 CO sts at the start of the round)…”- do you mean to continue the pattern we established in the beginning after the ribbing? but instead of p1 at the BOR, we are p4? (p1 + purling the 3 CO st?). I am a little confused and don’t understand how to continue.
Thanks for posting this by they way. I am loving how these are looking!
October 15, 2015 @ 3:32 am
Yes, you’ve got it right! Enjoy :)
June 8, 2015 @ 10:14 pm
Okay…do I leave the three CO stitches and the one purl stitch on one needle for three needles? And the BOR is the same or does it start with the 3 CO stitches? I’m a tad confused here. It would have been great to see another pic as you were knitting the top of the mitten after the 3 CO stitches and as you did the first and second joining round for the mitt part. Thanks!
June 12, 2015 @ 3:35 pm
Hi Jennifer – the BOR stays the same. The 3 cast on sts replace the 3 sts that became the thumb, so they don’t move.
April 5, 2015 @ 12:03 pm
Yes, I too do not understand how you get three stitches on the needles after you pull through the loop of yarn. First you show one stick on the hook and in the next photo there are three stitches on the hook. I don’t see how this happens via the instructions given. Could you please explain this in a little more detail? Is the loop if yarn cascara piece or is this the working yarn? It’s hell being a newbie I tellya…:)
April 7, 2015 @ 9:29 am
Hi – I’ve added a link to the backwards loop cast on, that’s the method we use to cast on the sts!
March 7, 2015 @ 5:58 am
I am absolutely stuck on this step! “Pick up and knit 3 sts in the cast-on sts.”
Have my stitches picked up. Believe I have inserted needle through stitch based on picture. Thrown loop of yarn over needle… and then? Nothing. Can’t make it look like the pictures, and can’t figure out how to magically make it turn into three picked up stitches!
Please help! <3
March 9, 2015 @ 3:31 pm
Hi Mandy – I think you are missing the ‘pull the loop through’ portion of picking up a stitch. You are inserting your needle from the RS to the WS in the cast on st, then your yarn goes around the needle and you pull it back through.
February 19, 2015 @ 12:04 pm
This is a great tutorial. For me the only thing missing is how to read a mitten chart with color work. I can’t seem to find those instructions anywhere. Your explanations are wonderful!!
February 12, 2015 @ 7:40 am
I don’t think anyone else has mentioned this, but you’re missing an instruction in this post. The pdf pattern tells you to work several decreases after you go back to knitting the thumb, but this post doesn’t seem to have that step.
(I otherwise loved the tutorial. Thank you so much! :)
February 12, 2015 @ 8:35 pm
I can’t seem to find what you are referring too? Do you mean the decreases for the thumb or at the top for the mitten? There are instructions for fingerless mittens and full mittens…..
May 23, 2016 @ 8:02 am
I think I have the same question. These instructions from the pattern don’t seem to appear in this tutorial.
Knit around to last 5 sts, ssk, k1, k2tog. [12 (12, 14, 14, 16) sts]
Can you clarify?
I love the simple collection and all your tutorials! Thanks so much.
May 24, 2016 @ 11:20 am
You should be following the pattern, it has all the details.
January 20, 2015 @ 12:32 pm
Brilliant tutorial! Just stuck on one thing – when you say 3.5 inches from end of gusset do you mean where the stitches are on the waste yarn or the end where you started increasing for the gusset?
January 22, 2015 @ 9:22 am
The 3.5 inches is measured from the END of the gusset, which means where you ended knitting the gusset and put the stitches on hold. Hope this helps!
November 15, 2014 @ 1:28 pm
I like the pattern and have finished my firstmitt. How do I reverse the pattern for the other hand? Thank you!
November 21, 2014 @ 12:08 pm
The kittens are reversible so you can just make 2 the same!
December 12, 2014 @ 6:59 am
I’ve learned how to make TWO mittens at the same time with the Magic Loop! Mittens AND socks! Just use two separate balls of yarn – one for each mitten/sock! What a gem!!
November 12, 2014 @ 11:34 am
Very useful tutorial, I use these methods even when other patterns call for something different because this is so easy to understand. Thanks!
October 13, 2014 @ 5:49 am
What a nice explanation~how kind of you to do all this work to help all of us mitten newbies out there! Thanks!!
August 22, 2014 @ 4:49 am
I was going crazy looking for an understandable pattern for a beginner, suddendly this popped out of my browser, thank you so much! You have an amazing talent explaining complicated things in a simple way, you’re fantastic!
I can’t wait to try this.
July 7, 2014 @ 6:19 pm
I think I’m a little confused. I’m doing the child sized mittens, and the directions here say to work 3.5 inches from the end of gusset, but on the PDF for the child size it says 3 inches.
Which do you recommend for an average child?
July 10, 2014 @ 2:12 pm
Go 3 inches!
May 22, 2014 @ 5:53 pm
October 25, 2013 @ 2:36 pm
Wow, wonderfully easy when you look at your site. Thanks