So, you’ve knit a scarf, or maybe a blanket, and now it’s time to expand your skills! The Barley hat is a great way to learn about knitting in the round, markers, and decreases!
This pattern is EVEN BETTER in the Tin Can Knits app!
- see only the instructions you need
- tick through the pattern and make notes
- support is just a tap away
- adjust the settings to suit you!
Or, get the Barley hat PDF here.
This tutorial includes excerpts from the free Barley pattern, which is knit in a worsted weight. If you’re following the Barley Light pattern (knit in sock/fingering weight yarn) all the techniques described below will apply, but the numbers will be different.
If you prefer a cowl try our free Oats pattern; all the same techniques apply but you get to skip the decreases.
8 Steps to knit a Barley hat
- Materials
- Casting on for knitting in the round
- Ribbing
- Change to larger needles
- Set-up Round
- Body of the hat
- Decreases
- Finishing
Materials
- Pattern: Download a copy of the free Barley pattern or the Barley Light pattern, or get the Barley pattern in the Tin Can Knits app. Check out our tutorial here if reading a multi-size knitting pattern is new to you.
- Yarn: for the Barley hat you can choose from 3 weights of yarn, worsted/aran, DK, or sock/sport. Each has their own charms. Worsted is a nice quick knit and a warm hat, sock/sport is a little slower, but a lovely fine knit. DK is right in the middle. For more information on yarns see our post on yarns here.
- Needles: You will need 2 or 3 types of needles for this hat. The newborn and baby sizes need DPNs (double pointed needles) in 2 sizes. All other sizes need circular needles in 2 sizes as well as DPNs in the larger size.
Why all the needles you ask? The smaller circular needle is for the ribbing, which you want to be a little tighter. The larger circular needle is for the body of the hat. The double pointed needles (DPNs) are for the decreases in the hat. For more information on knitting needles check out our needle post here.
Note: If you don’t want to use DPNs you can also try the Magic Loop Method with a long circular.
Cast on!
Using smaller needles, cast on, PM and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the cast-on.
So, following instructions for your size and using your smaller circular needles, cast on the number of stitches for your size, place your marker, and join for working in the round. Don’t know how to cast on with circular needles or join for working in the round? Check out the tutorial here: Casting for knitting in the round.
Ribbing
Establish ribbing: [k1, p1] around
Work in 1×1 ribbing.
Now you are working in the round! After a few rounds stop and take a look. You might notice that you are knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches creating a ‘stack’ of knits and a ‘ditch’ of purls. Measure your knitting from the bottom of the cast on.
Change to Larger Needles
After the ribbing the instructions state to change to larger needles. This means you will be working the next round using larger circular needles. You will be changing to larger needles as you work the set-up round.
To change to larger needles simply ignore the right hand needle you have been working with and start working the next round with the larger needle in your right hand and the smaller needle in your left hand. Once the round is complete you can drop the smaller needle and you will be working with the next round solely on the larger needle.
When a pattern says ‘change to smaller needles’ you’ll do just the same thing, using the smaller diameter needles needles.
Set-up Round
The set-up round establishes the garter section of the hat (which is 1/3 of the total stitches) and the stockinette section (which is the other 2/3). Following the directions for your size knit your number of stitches, place marker (tip: it helps if this marker is a different colour from the beginning of round marker) knit to end of round. The garter stitch portion of the hat will be between the beginning of round (BOR) marker and the second marker.
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Body of the Hat
Round 1: purl to marker, SM, knit to end of round
Round 2: knit
Work rounds 1-2 until piece measures the specified number of inches from cast-on, measured at the stockinette side of the work, for a beanie. For a slouchier hat (as shown in the Child and Adult L samples) work an additional inch in pattern as established.
Work round 1 once more.
To knit the body of the hat you will keep working 1/3 of the stitches in garter stitch (this section is purled on round 1 and knit on round 2) and 2/3 of the stitches in stockinette (this is knit every round).
Decreases
To shape the crown of the hat you will work a series of decrease rounds. At first you can work these on your circular needle, but soon it will become too tight (your stitches won’t reach all the way around the needle) and you will have to switch to double pointed needles (DPNs) or a long circular for magic loop.
To set up for your decreases you’ll be placing markers to divide your work into 6 sections. You’ll have 2 sections in the garter area and 4 sections in the stockinette area.
For the first set of decreases you’ll have a new stitch, the k2tog knitting 2 stitches together. Once you have completed the set-up round you will have 6 markers, your BOR marker and 5 other markers. You work is separated into 6 sections.
Tip: these markers should be a different colour from the beginning of round marker to avoid confusion.
What a k2tog looks like in the purl section:
What a k2tog looks like in the knit section:
Now that your work is all set up, you can continue with your decreases according to the pattern (remembering that you will have to switch to double pointed needles when you have too few stitches to comfortably go around your circular needle, described in detail below).
Round 1: purl to second marker, knit to end, slipping markers as you come to them (this continues the garter stitch section as set)
Round 2: [knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, SM] around [6 sts dec]
Work these two rounds the number specified for your size.
Next Round: [purl to 2 sts before marker, p2tog, SM] twice, then [knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, SM] to end [6 sts dec]
Next Round: [knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, SM] around [6 sts dec]
Work last 2 rounds until 6 sts remain.
If you haven’t worked a p2tog (purl 2 stitches together) check out our p2tog tutorial here.
Switching to Double Pointed Needles (DPNs)
When working with circular needle you can work something larger than the 16″ circumference, but you can’t work something smaller or things get pretty stretchy. In order to work a smaller number of stitches in the round you will need to use DPN’s or a longer circular needle and the magic loop method.
Changing to double pointed needles is a lot like switching to the larger needles, like we did after working the ribbing. You simply work your stitches with a new needle instead of your current right hand needle. The difference with DPN’s is that you will be using 4 needles (sometimes people use 5 but that’s a story for another day). Your knitting will be distributed over 3 needles and you will use the 4th to knit with. Read ALL of the instructions for changing to double points before you proceed.
A note on distributing your stitches and markers with DPNs: You can put any number of stitches on any of your double pointed needles but I have a favourite way to do it for this hat. Work the garter section on the first needle, pick up your second needle and work 1/2 the stockinette section, pick up your third needle and work the last 1/2 of the stockinette section – this will bring you back to the beginning. This way you will have a marker in the middle of each needle and you can treat the end of each needle as if it had a marker on it (you can’t actually place a marker on the end of each needle because it would just fall off). The beginning of round is at the beginning of the garter section.
For more details on how to knit with DPNs see our knitting with DPNs tutorial here.
Finishing
- Cut your yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail.
- Weave the tail through the remaining 6 live stitches.
- Move the tail to the inside of the hat and secure it.
All done! The last steps are to weave in your ends, block your hat, attach a cute pompom, and wear it out. Don’t forget to tell EVERYONE you meet that you knit it yourself!
More great hats from TCK:
Snap
Snowglobe
Sunshine hat
Gather hat
Beloved bonnet
Bumble hat
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February 24, 2022 @ 11:22 am
Hi there! I love your patterns (especially that you offer FREE ones) and have recently purchased your “Beloved” hat pattern – can’t wait to get started! I was reviewing the instructions above for this Barley hat pattern and wonder if there might be a mistake in the images for the decreases rounds in the garter sections of the hat. Shouldn’t these be PURL 2 together? I’m thinking that doing a K2tog in the middle of the garter sections will create a different column of stitches. Just curious….. ?
February 24, 2022 @ 11:56 am
Hi Gwenda – Garter stitch in the round is created by knitting 1 round, then purling the next. So for the first part of the decreases you are working the k2tog on the knit rounds, and purling (without decreasing) on the next round. Then, when the decreases get a little faster at the very top you are going to work k2tog on the knit rounds, and p2tog in the purl rounds. Does that make sense?
July 22, 2021 @ 2:55 pm
I am a total beginner here and so far have found all of these resources helpful! I am wondering for the measurement of the body of the hat (Repeat these two rounds until your hat measures 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8.5) inches from cast-on for a snug beanie style hat.) – is that measurement from the bottom of the ribbing (the first cast-on), or is it from the top of the ribbing when I started the body of the hat?
July 23, 2021 @ 10:48 am
Hi Alyssa – You want to measure that from the cast on, at the bottom of the ribbing
November 7, 2020 @ 7:48 pm
Hi!
My local shop and they helped me find a pair of needles and a ball of wool for this project.
This might be a silly question, but I see that the instructions say to cast 84 stitches to start (as per the instructions for a small adult size). The result is 22.5cm / 8.5 inches (https://i.imgur.com/3YmpF1e.jpg) This seems way too small. I’m wondering if it’s because of the thickness of my yarn? This is the label (https://i.imgur.com/XoZJq74.jpg) and the yarn (https://www.katia.com/EN/yarns-autumn-winter-lagom-1107.html)
Should I just keep adding stitches until I reach the circumference of my head (52cm/ 20.5 inches)?
November 9, 2020 @ 2:11 am
Hi – I’d try casting on much more loosely, so that the cast-on will stretch much further. Is your circular needle 16″ long? I can’t tell from the photo, but if your circular needle is too long, you won’t be able to stretch the 84 cast-on stitches all the way around, and will need to cast on to a set of double-pointed needles (or a shorter circular) instead.
April 17, 2020 @ 2:24 pm
Just gathering supplies. Should the size 8 double-point needles also be 16″ long or can they be shorter? Thanks!
April 20, 2020 @ 2:05 pm
Hi Judy – They should definitely be shorter! 6-8″ is my recommendation for a new knitter (but you can go shorter if you like)
March 25, 2020 @ 4:27 pm
So great! Thanks!
About sizing, if my head is 22,5 inches, which size should I make with Merino and Silk Wool?
Take care!
March 25, 2020 @ 8:29 pm
Hi Mylene – Our patterns come with a ‘to fit head’ measurement. Hats usually have a couple of inches of negative ease so they fit nice and snug. You could knit the medium or the large, depending on how snug you’d like your hat.
February 21, 2020 @ 7:13 am
I am a beginner and I am making this hat. What does set up row mean?
February 21, 2020 @ 12:26 pm
Hi Ruth – that means it’s a row that sets up further rows, so usually it includes placing markers, or establishing a stitch pattern
November 3, 2019 @ 9:15 am
Is there no market placed in the pearl section of the set up decrease round?
November 5, 2019 @ 12:34 pm
Yep, there is a marker right in the middle of the garter section
October 14, 2019 @ 11:34 am
The pattern I have for barley light says sock yarn cast on 96(102,114 etc.). Your pattern says cast on 66 (72, 78 etc) I take it this is just the difference between the child and adult pattern? Also you do have a decrease in the middle of the garter stitch section? Also (and this is the last one–my 114 is not divisible by 17 (in the barley child pattern). Just follow direction and it will all come out in the end??? Thank you., Barbara
October 15, 2019 @ 10:37 am
Hi Barbara – While the techniques in this tutorial apply to both the Barley hat and the Barley light, the numbers are from the Barley hat pattern (the worsted weight version). So you will need to use the Barley light pattern for the numbers. There is indeed a decrease in the middle of the garter section.
July 27, 2019 @ 9:55 am
I just started to learn to knit two weeks ago. I thought I was doing ok until I reached the time to decrease my rounds BUT, instead of having 66 stitches to deal with, I found my last round before the decrease is 75! (I counted 3 times). Don’t know how I got there but, somehow, I need to get to a number divisible by 6 to move forward. Suggestions? Thanks.
August 1, 2019 @ 11:31 pm
It’s pretty common to gain (or lose) stitches mysteriously when you begin. If you work three k2togs in the next row, that will decrease your stitch count down to 72, which is divisible by 6 :) Best luck!
July 24, 2019 @ 10:12 pm
I want to make this hat out of bamboo and cotton, for a friend going thru chemo, but want to use dk yarn (20 st over 4″) instead of worsted. Is it possible to adjust the pattern to do this? if so, how do I go about doing that? I look forward to your thoughts.
July 26, 2019 @ 5:11 am
Hi Kari – I’d suggest knitting one size bigger than you would if you were using worsted / aran weight yarn. It should come out about the right size! Best luck, Emily
March 14, 2019 @ 2:57 pm
Hello, I’m having a meltdown regarding dpns vs circulars (40”) and magic loop. I’m knitting toddler size barley hat and have decreased to 48 stitches. Must I start magic loop technique now?
Or can I continue just with the long circular? I’m lost for some reason!
Thanks.
March 14, 2019 @ 6:25 pm
Hmm, I’m a bit lost too. You can use the magic loop technique for the whole hat, using a long circular and pulling the cord out.
March 13, 2019 @ 10:38 pm
Do I have to increase at the beginning of round marker too? Or only at the 5 other markers?
March 14, 2019 @ 7:08 pm
Hi – all 6 markers.
October 1, 2018 @ 5:11 pm
Loved the hat and how it looks.
February 17, 2018 @ 5:20 pm
Hi. Thank you for this nice hat pattern.
I am a beginner knitter and have a question about the body part of the hat. In the instruction it says that the smaller portion section is garter, but why it is one-row purl and one-row knit? Isn’t it going to make a stockinette pattern? And in the larger portion, it is all knit stitches which results in garter pattern. Would you please explain?
Thank you.
February 19, 2018 @ 1:19 pm
Hi – If you try it I think you will see. When working back and forth garter stitch is created by knitting each row, but in the round the right side of the work is always facing so it works the opposite way. Garter is created by knitting 1 round and purling 1 round, stockinette is created by knitting every round.
February 20, 2018 @ 9:53 am
Very interesting. Thank you :)
December 2, 2017 @ 9:25 am
My garter stich section is always shorter than the stockinette. Help!!
December 3, 2017 @ 5:52 pm
Hi Daphne – no problem at all, garter stitch is always going to ‘scrunch up’ more than stockinette so that is to be expected. Measure your hat from the stockinette side and when you block your finished hat the garter section will block to the same length as the stockinette.
April 18, 2020 @ 8:05 pm
I came to the comments just to see if anyone asked about this! I thought I was making a newbie mistake. Thanks!
October 10, 2017 @ 8:06 am
Thinking of using this pattern for a messy bun hat. What do you think? Would just need to modify the top of the hat! Thanks for sharing all this great knowledge on your site!!
Our Favourites in Falkland | This is Knit
August 25, 2017 @ 4:25 am
[…] the pattern comes in sizes from baby all the way up to adult large, and that TinCanKnits have wonderful tutorials on their site to walk you through the pattern if this is your first adventure in hat […]
Our Favourites in Falkland - This is Knit
May 12, 2017 @ 2:18 pm
[…] the pattern comes in sizes from baby all the way up to adult large, and that TinCanKnits have wonderful tutorials on their site to walk you through the pattern if this is your first adventure in hat […]
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April 27, 2017 @ 5:35 pm
[…] Let’s knit a hat […]
February 20, 2017 @ 10:16 pm
Thanks forKNIT===r sharing this type of
Let’s Knit an Antler Toque | Tin Can Knits
February 9, 2017 @ 12:43 pm
[…] and hat knitting in general. If you are looking for something a little simpler, try our free Barley hat pattern and tutorial from The Simple […]
January 3, 2017 @ 2:03 pm
I love this pattern, could you tell what brand are your double pointed needles? The seem so nice and smooth. Thanks!
January 3, 2017 @ 5:09 pm
I do love them! They are Lantern Moon needles
October 30, 2016 @ 12:52 pm
What does Purl to stitches before marker, P2tog twice then knit two stitches before marker K2 tog to end mean? Very confusing
October 31, 2016 @ 9:02 pm
I think you might be missing some brackets here. Your work will have 6 markers in it, you will purl to 2 sts before the marker, p2tog, then purl to 2 sts before the next marker, p2tog, then knit to 2 sts before the next marker, k2tog etc.
October 7, 2016 @ 12:57 pm
I have noticed any other comments so maybe I am the only one who made this mistake.
I am not a beginning knitter so did not feel the need to follow the link explaining how to cast on.
I cast on 66 sts and then joined the round with a knit 2 tog and was left with 65 stitches which naturally didn’t work for the ribbing.
I couldn’t figure out where I had gone wrong until I began desperately clicking on all the links and finally arrived at the cast on tutorial where it became clear I should actually cast on 67 sts.
The comment “remember that you already knit the first stitch (the knit 2 together to join for working in the round)’ is a little mysterious and appears to refer to some instruction not included on this page or in the pattern but there is no indication what it refers to.
Maybe the the addition of the phrase ‘see cast on instructions” with a link might be clearer.
December 1, 2016 @ 3:31 am
I didn’t look at this page until I came to the decrease section. And, since I don’t use a k2tog when I join in the round, my cast on stitches were the correct number ;).
September 10, 2016 @ 5:49 pm
I love the Simple collection (made my first sweater using flax, thank you!!)
Question on modifying this pattern: if a person needed to make it a bit larger (to fit head size 24”) would it be better to cast on extra stitches, or use a slightly larger needle size than recommended in your gauge, or just cast on using the larger needles and… hope that it’s good enough?
Thanks, and keep being awesome!
September 13, 2016 @ 10:25 am
The largest size is made to fit a 24″ head, not to worry! (but to answer your question, more stitches is usually the answer)
August 6, 2016 @ 5:52 pm
I can’t find a hat pattern with 94 stitches, so I’m not sure how to do the crown.
The 94 stitches are divisible by 8. Can you tell how to decrease evenly? Thanks!
August 6, 2016 @ 9:28 pm
Hi Viki – 94 is not divisible by 8, I would probably decrease 4 sts in the next round, then you can follow the decrease instructions for the Barley size Adult M
August 1, 2016 @ 3:10 pm
I usually buy quality yarn, but am using some red heart for my first hat. Is that terrible????
August 2, 2016 @ 9:31 am
Hi Nancy – there is nothing terrible about acrylic yarn, it just isn’t forgiving the way natural fibers are. It doesn’t really block and it generally doesn’t feel as nice as wool to work with or to wear, that’s all.
June 23, 2016 @ 10:16 pm
Hi , love your patterns and am finally attempting the barley hat in a beautiful alpaca yarn. My question is I accidentally lost the plot with the knit every second row and have now just reverse stockinette stitch instead of garter stitch. How will this affect my hat? I have done so much now and it looks good so I dont want to pull it out. so was there a reason to use garter stitch -i was thinking it may look clearer?
Thanks,
Maya
June 25, 2016 @ 11:08 pm
Hi Maya – not to worry, your hat will be just perfect! There are more than a few hats on Ravelry with that ‘design detail’
January 13, 2016 @ 11:21 am
Knitting the Barley. So adorable. Just love all your knits. Your patterns are great and so clear. Just need a little clarification on the decrease. K2TOG’s are done on the knit row, wrong side of hat. Right side stays in the established pattern. Thank you, Tere
January 13, 2016 @ 12:35 pm
Hi Tere – The hat is knit in the round, so there are no wrong side rows…
December 16, 2015 @ 2:56 am
how to get the free pattern?
December 16, 2015 @ 4:11 pm
We have a ‘how to’ on our website http://www.tincanknits.com
November 17, 2015 @ 7:57 pm
Can I use the magic loop instead of switching to dpns?
November 18, 2015 @ 10:01 am
Hi Diane – yep!
November 6, 2015 @ 7:46 pm
Thank you. The instructions and tutorials are excellent. I feel confident using any of your patterns.
October 30, 2015 @ 3:53 pm
Should I change to DPN’s at the beginning of the decrease, when all the needles have an even amount of stitches?
November 5, 2015 @ 9:35 am
I usually switch as late as possible, when the sts are quite spread apart on the circular.
Podcast créatif #2 - Vive le tricot en rond ! - Happy Inspirations
September 15, 2015 @ 1:21 am
[…] attention, mais je pense consacrer également des billets spéciaux – le bonnet « Barley » , the Simple Collection de Tin Can Knits, en laine Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK. Le […]
August 19, 2015 @ 1:00 pm
Hi Alexa,
First thank you so much for sharing this gift with us all, such a blessing. Now on to the question, must I use double pointed needles to make this hat? I don’t know why however, this has been the reason I shy away from knitting hats whenever I see DPN I decide I just won’t make the pattern and thus as a new knitter this keeps me from making anything other than a square, dishcloth, scarf etc. Please advise and again thank you,
< michele ps i'm on ravelry.
March 24, 2015 @ 2:21 pm
Do you end on a knit or pearl row before starting the decrease?
March 24, 2015 @ 2:33 pm
You are working a round 1 before the decreases, so a purl row
February 22, 2015 @ 6:08 pm
Is it absolutely necessary to change the needle size after the ribbing?
February 25, 2015 @ 9:39 pm
Yep, you want to have a nice tight ribbing and the rest of the hat is on larger needles. If you keep going on the small needles it will come out too small.
January 21, 2015 @ 11:07 am
Hi, I’m new to your site and fairly new to knitting. I am confused about your pattern. 1. It looks like you knit one section and purl the other. 2. Don’t I begin the stockinette section at the beginning of the starter row (where tail is)Where my starter marker is?TY Loyda
January 22, 2015 @ 9:25 am
Hello Loyda – you work the garter stitch section (purling every second round) over the first 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) stitches of the round. So at the very start of the round, after your beginning-of-round marker, to the second marker. You do this following the pattern, repeating these 2 rounds:
Round 1: purl to marker, knit to end of round
Round 2: knit
Enjoy the knit!
January 19, 2015 @ 12:57 pm
I don’t understand p2tog twice? Is that mean last 4 stitches?
January 19, 2015 @ 5:55 pm
You are repeating the whole instructions twice, not just the p2tog. Purl to 2 sts before marker, p2tog, purl to 2 sts before marker, p2tog
Pikachu Hat, and Pink WIP Pokemon Hat | Pika Plushies
October 17, 2014 @ 1:12 pm
[…] will improvise the details on the mystery hat, as well. If you’re new to circular knitting, the Tin Can Knits blog offers a step by step tutorial with pictures. You can also try making your hat from a basic […]
Pikachu Hat, and a WIP Hat | Pika Plushies
October 17, 2014 @ 1:00 pm
[…] will improvise the details on the mystery hat, as well. If you’re new to circular knitting, the Tin Can Knits blog offers a step by step tutorial with pictures. You can also try making your hat from a basic […]
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September 7, 2014 @ 9:37 pm
[…] Ribbing: (k1, p1) around Repeat ribbing until piece measures 1 (1.5) inches from cast on for Child (Adult) sizes. Change to larger needles. [an illustration of this technique shown here] […]
July 21, 2014 @ 7:36 pm
From what portion of the hat do you measure for length before beginning the decreases? Garter stitch makes a more horizontally compressed fabric, and mine currently measures an inch shorter from the cast on than the stockinette portion of the hat.
July 22, 2014 @ 10:45 pm
Solid question, I would measure on the stockinette side.
July 4, 2014 @ 12:36 am
I am starting a circular baby shawl on circular needles, working from the middle out. How do you cast on only 9 stitches and knit these few stitches on circular needles?
July 5, 2014 @ 7:12 am
If you are casting on from the centre, to work a circular shawl or blanket in the round, you will need to use either DPNs (double pointed needles) or a long circular needle with the magic loop technique. This is because there are too few stitches when you start to fit around a normal circular needle.
I’d suggest using the pinhole cast on method to cast on. You can check out our tutorial here: http://blog.tincanknits.com/2012/05/25/pinhole-cast-on-tutorial/
For more details on working from the centre out, look at our POP blanket tutorial, our Vivid blanket tutorial, and our Dogwood blanket tutorial – they are all worked from the centre out.
February 4, 2014 @ 3:50 am
Thanks so much for this series of patterns. Barley was my first hat and my second knitting project ever. It taught me knitting in the round and DPNs. One question though…in Finishing, Step 3, you say to move the tail to the inside of the hat and secure it. Can you explain “secure it,” please? I just moved it to the inside and wove in the end. Thanks!
February 11, 2014 @ 8:35 pm
Weaving in the end is exactly what we mean. Sometimes I make a little knot first.
January 24, 2014 @ 1:43 pm
Hi, I have never used dpns before and was wondering if it matters what length they are? I have seen 7 in and 5 in, and not sure which to use? Or if I should be looking for a different length? Thanks!
February 11, 2014 @ 8:38 pm
I like the shorties personally (5 inches) but the longer ones are a little easier to learn on. It’s really just preference!
November 26, 2013 @ 11:15 am
I need assistance! Why are there two different gauges listed for Barley? I see one uses garter and one stockenette. Am I supposed to find gauge with larger needle and then use needles two sizes smaller to start? I knit tight and almost always find gauge when I go up 2 sizes. I can get perfect gauge with US10 needles in garter for this pattern. Am I supposed to find gauge with smaller needles in st.st.? I am sure I am making this too complicated. Thank you for any guidance.
December 2, 2013 @ 6:54 pm
Hi Amy
One gauge is given in stockinette and one is given in garter. Because the 2 different stitches are different (garter is a ‘squishier’ fabric while stockinette is more smooth) the same needles and yarn will result in a different gauge. SO, if you are knitting a gauge swatch you will want to know what your gauge is on larger needles in either stockinette or garter (while the ribbing is done on smaller needles fo for a nice tight brim). Check out our tutorial on gauge here if you still need a little more information.
September 15, 2013 @ 3:15 pm
Ok sweet. Thanks! I don’t think I had my stitches lined up with my markers, so it went all crazy. Lol
I guess I missed the part where you do the round 1 one more time.
September 15, 2013 @ 3:17 pm
Also, the dpns freak me out. I’m paranoid the stitches are going to fall out. And it’s kinda confusing, to me. I’m self taught (well, teaching).
September 14, 2013 @ 10:39 pm
The set up round of decreasing: does this happen AFTER a round 2 from the previous section? Thus making the set up round two rows of knitting in the purl section?
Also, there are 22 purl stitches is this section, as indicated in the baby hat, when decreasing in the set up row, that leaves two extra purl stitches where the decreasing “seam” would be. Is that supposed to be like that? Thanks so much.
September 14, 2013 @ 10:46 pm
Hi Marylin
The instructions are to knit round 1 once more, so the garter panel continues as set. For the decrease section the 22 stitch garter panel remains. The instructions are to knit 9 then K2tog. The k2tog takes up 2 sts so 9+2 is 11 and 11×2 is 22.