Skip to content

Dogwood Blanket Tutorial

June 11, 2014

9M-dogwood-00The Dogwood blanket makes for a wonderful gift, adding a touch of romance to any nursery or living room, whether you are making one for yourself or as a gift for someone special. If you are feeling a little daunted by lace in the round, let’s work on that together. So get your Dogwood pattern here and we can get started!


::: My Square :::

While the pattern calls for 750 yards of worsted/aran weight yarn and US 8 / 5mm needles, I chose Madelinetosh Tosh DK (square shown is ‘gilded’) and US 7 / 4.5mm needles. This means my square and finished blanket will be a bit smaller than our original sample.

::: Construction :::

Each Dogwood square is worked from the center to the edge, with the lace pattern repeated four times per round (more on that later). To start a project from the center you will first work a Pinhole Cast On. You will then work the lace chart and bind off all of your stitches loosely. If you are new to lace knitting you might want to check out our tutorials on how to knit lace here and reading a lace chart here.

Once you have 4 or more squares you can seam the squares together to create your blanket.


::: The Pattern: which needles where? :::

While Magic Loop is a perfectly great method for knitting this blanket, I prefer to use double pointed needles (dpn’s) when there are so few stitches to start a ‘center out’ project. So I cast on my stitches, then evenly distribute them over 4 dpns. Why four? Because the pattern repeats itself 4 times! More information on how to work a lace chart here.


While the stitches are on your dpn’s you WILL have to work a yarn over at the end of each needle. While this may seem a little fiddly, don’t worry. As long as you know the yo is there, and not some strange mistake,  there is nothing wrong with a yo at the end of a needle.


When your stitches start to get a little squished on your dpn’s it’s time to switch to a circular. If you like the magic loop method you can use a long circular here, if not I went with a 20 inch circular for a bit, then switched again to a 32″ needle when the stitches started to feel squished on the 20 inch.


::: Binding off loosely :::

Why is binding off loosely so important for this project? Lace knitting is rather stretchy and you will want to block your finished piece somewhat aggressively to show off your pretty lacy pattern. With a bind off that is too tight you won’t be able to block your piece as much and your lace pattern will be lost.

One good method for binding off loosely is: k1, (k1, place both stitches back on LH needle, and k2tog-tbl), repeat to end.

2 sts knit

2 sts knit

knit them together through the back loop

knit them together through the back loop

::: Blocking :::

You will want to wet block your first square right away to make sure you are pleased with the size and the ‘stretchiness’ of the bind off. For a perfect block you will need: blocking boards (I used these foam puzzle pieces from the hardware store, but a piece of cardboard will do just fine), blocking wires, T-pins, and a measuring tape. If you don’t have blocking wires you can block it with pins alone, but the wires create a nice straight edge.


Once you have soaked your square for about 15 minutes in cool water (a threw in a little Soak as well), put the wires through each side, pin them out, and measure to make sure you have all 4 sides the same. Let dry!

Wires are threaded through the work a few stitches in from the bind off.

Wires are threaded through the work a stitch or two towards the center from the bind off.

Make sure you can really see the lace stitches when blocking.

Make sure you can really see the lace stitches when blocking.

::: Seaming :::

To seam your squares together we recommend a slip stitch crochet seam (although it is knitter’s choice of course!). For detailed instructions on the slip stitch crochet seam, check out our tutorial here!

Tin Can Knits Email UpdatesGet Tin Can Knits Emails and we will let you know about new designs and tutorials as they are released.  We also have great specials and contests… don’t miss out!

More ‘center out’ designs by Tin Can Knits:

18 Comments leave one →
  1. Micki White permalink
    December 10, 2021 6:07 am

    Hi. I always struggle with reading colorwork mittens when they have the thumb chart included. Any good tips on how to read the front, thumb, and back of a mitten when it’s all on one page?

    • December 13, 2021 1:35 pm

      Hi Micki – Do you mean for the thumb gusset? If so, you are reading straight across, so row 1 of the front, row 1 of the thumb gusset, and row 1 of the back (and reverse for the other mitten)

  2. bellfuego permalink
    March 28, 2021 7:48 pm

    I’m confused… After round 1 with YOs, I still only have 12 stitches, not 16. And the chart looks like it starts with 4 stitches, not the CO 8? What am I missing?

    • March 28, 2021 11:12 pm

      First – you cast on 8 stitches, and then you double the stitch count by working [k1, yo] 8 times, so you’ll be at 16 sts.
      Second – the chart repeats 4 times on each round, and it represents [k1, yo, k1, yo] 4 times on round 1, which is the same as the text instructions.
      One thing you might be missing is working yarn-overs at the end of each needle?

      • bellfuego permalink
        March 31, 2021 12:13 pm

        Thank you for the clarification!

  3. Georgia Wilson permalink
    January 14, 2018 9:39 am

    Line 31 does not work is this me or is this an error

    • January 14, 2018 4:41 pm

      Hi Georgia – I’ve checked the pattern and it should work. Are you working a p3 together at the center stitch?

      • Georgia Wilson permalink
        January 15, 2018 11:47 am

        Its the first part of the row that is the problem The first pearl stitch is directly above the one on the previous row and its not supposed to be

      • January 15, 2018 7:03 pm

        Hi Georgia – If you follow the pattern stitch by stitch it will work, I promise. It’s hard to diagnose the problem without seeing the actual work. Could you maybe email us a photo? Or if you have a local yarn shop they may be able to see where it’s gone wrong?

  4. Pam Lambert permalink
    April 14, 2017 2:33 pm

    Hi! I have used cascade yarns long wood (super wash extra fine merino wool) and was wondering it is best to wet block? I was told at my local yarn store that I could mist the squares then block. This is my first time making something like this and to block. If you could share some wisdom to this novice, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much

    • April 18, 2017 9:47 am

      I always wet block. You could mist the squares but with a lace blanket you want a bit of a harder block than say, a hat, or a sweater you lay flat to dry.

  5. Carolyn Harries permalink
    January 25, 2017 12:41 am

    I have just bought the Vivid pattern and started work on it. I am working on two needles. How do I make a yarn over stitch at the end of a row?

    • January 25, 2017 2:35 pm

      Hi Carolyn – You should be working in the round, rather than back and forth (maybe you are doing that on 2 needles?), a yarn over at the end is the same as a yarn over anywhere else, you just want to be careful it doesn’t drop off when you go to work the first stitch on the next needle.

  6. Hercy permalink
    August 8, 2016 2:36 pm

    Hi, I’ve just finished one square of this wonderful blanket. Unfortunately, my purl stitches (inside the flower shape) are loose compared to the pictures. Do you have any ideas on what I’m doing wrong? I’ve used 5mm needles and Dream in Colour classy yarn.
    Thank you:)

    • August 9, 2016 4:22 pm

      Hi Hercy – you just might have looser purls when you are working in the round. Try a slightly different technique, or pulling the stitches a little tighter.

  7. syvvs permalink
    April 18, 2015 5:31 pm

    Hi! I am ready to start knitting this lovely blanket, but I am not sure I understand what to do for the even rounds. When should I purl and when should I p3? Sorry, I am confused! Thanks!

    • April 23, 2015 7:50 am

      On the even rounds, you will be ‘keeping in pattern’. So when the stitch was knit on the previous round, you will knit it. When the stitch was purled on the previous round, you will purl it. If it was a knit decrease (like k2tog, ssk, etc.), you’ll knit it. If it was a yarn-over, you’ll knit it. If it was a purl decrease (like p3tog), you’ll purl it. Hope this helps!

  8. June 11, 2014 8:50 pm

    This is so pretty! Once I finish my other WIP’s I’m definitely starting this. I need more hands to knit more things!

Leave a Comment

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

%d bloggers like this: